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WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14S80 

(716)  872-4503 


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I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


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Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


Coloured  plates  and/or  illuatrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
ReliA  avac  d'autrea  documents 


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along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serrAe  peut  cauaar  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
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Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
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modification  dans  la  mithoda  normala  de  fiimaga 
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jT^   Coloured  pages/ 


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Pagea  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagiea 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restaurtes  et/ou  pelliculies 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxei 
Pages  dicolortes.  tachaties  ou  piquAas 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ditachies 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Quality  Inigala  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  matarii 
Comprend  du  material  supplimantaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Saule  Mition  disponible 


r~n  Pages  damaged/ 

r~n  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

Pyl  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I      I  Pages  detached/ 

|~~1  Showthrough/ 

I      I  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

I      I  Includes  supplementary  material/ 

r~~|  Only  edition  available/ 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
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Commentairas  supplAmentaires: 


Pagination  m  followi  :   [21  [1]  •  400,  XIII-XXIV,  [2]  p. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  tha  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

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Archives  of  Canada 


L'exemplaire  filmA  fut  reproduit  grAco  A  la 
gAnAroaitA  da: 

La  bibliothAque  den  Archives 
publlques  du  Canada 


The  Imeges  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  In  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  imprea- 
sion.  or  the  back  coyer  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  Impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  Illustrated  Impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  ▼  (meaning  "END"), 
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Les  images  suh^sntes  ont  At*  reproduites  avac  la 
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da  la  nettet*  de  l'exemplaire  film*,  et  en 
conformity  avac  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
fllmage. 

Les  exempleires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  ImprimAe  sont  filmte  en  commen^ant 
par  la  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  solt  par  la 
dernMre  page  qui  comporte  une  emprelnte 
d'Impresslon  ou  d'lllustration,  soit  par  la  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplalres 
originaux  sont  filmte  en  commen^ant  par  la 
pramlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  emprelnte 
d'impression  ou  d'liiustration  et  en  terminant  ^ar 
la  dernlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
emprelnte. 

Un  des  symboies  suivants  apparattra  sur  la 
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cas:  le  symbols  — ^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  ▼  signifie  "FIN". 


IMaps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmte  A  des  taux  de  reduction  dlffirents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  ssul  ciichA,  11  est  filmA  A  partir 
de  I'angle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
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THE  FASHIONABLE  DEIYE 

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"'""  his 


r-*-^vt/z^-o  ♦  oi^T/h'u-r-^ 


"The  Cedar  island  and  Grand  Rapids  Drive" 


—  TO  — 


AND  THB 

GROSSING  TWO  MAONIFIOENT 

Wire  Suspension  Bridges 

AND  THREE  OTHER  BRIDGES. 


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Admits  through  the  -whole  Drive,  over  all 
the  Bridges,  and  into  the  Burning  Spring. 


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See  description  on  page  137  of  this  book. 


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book. 


CHISHOLM'S 

ALL-ROUND  ROUTE 


AND 


Panoramic  Guide 


OF  THE 


ST.  LAWRENCE; 

HUDSON   RIVER  ;    SARATOGA  ;    TRENTON   FALLS ;    NIAGARA  ;    TORONTO  } 

THOUSAND  ISLANDS,  AND  THE  RIVER  ST.  LAWRENCE  ;  OTTAWA  ;     » 

MONTREAL  ;  QUEBEC  ;  THE  LOWER  ST.  LAWRENCE  AND 

SAGUENAY  RIVERS;  THE  WHITE  MOUNTAINS  ; 

PORTLAND  ;     BOSTON  ;     NEW  YORK, 

—AND — 

WESTERN  TOURISTS  GUIDE 

TO    THE  WEST,   EMBRACING 

Detroit,  Chicago,  Milwaukee,  St.  Paul,  Minneapolis,  &c. 


CHICAGO,  III.,  and  MONTREAL,  P.  Q  : 

O.  R.  OmsHOLM  &  Co., 

Head  OHlce,  190  Bonaventure  St.,  Montreal, 
Publishers^  Booksellers  and  General  Railway  News  Agents. 

\  BRANCHBS  AT 

BOSTON,  Mass.  ;  PORTLAND.  Ms. ;  DETROIT,  Mich.;  TORONTO,  Omt.j 
.\  AND  CHICAGO.  III.. 

IN  pNNEOTION  WITH  THE  CHICAGO  NEWS  CO.,  CHICAGO.  Ilu.  and 
/  DOMINION  NEWS  CO.,  MONTREAL. 

Erjsred  according  to  Act  of  Parliament,  in  the  year   one  tfaomand  eight 
jhnndred  and  eighty-one.  by  COLIN  R.  CHISHOLM,  in  the  Office  of  the 
r     Minister  of  Agrioolture  and  Statistics  of  the  DoaunkHk  of  Canada. 


S  753 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


THE 


-:-o**^e,ii!gr^. 


-«»^£-  -' 


•..:^L^y& 


ii 


AMERICAN" 

BOSTOXr. 


CENTRAL  LOCATION. 

PERFECT  VENTILATION. 

UNEXCEPTIONABLE  TABLE. 

Partictdarly  Desirable  for  Tourists 


THE     NEAREST     FIRST-CLASS     HOTEL    TO 
NORTHERN  AND  EASTERN  DEPOTS. 


LEWIS  BICE  &  SON, 


HANOVER    ST., 

Near  Washington  St. 


d'o?  ^70 


I 


INTRODUCTION. 


The  publishers  of  this  well  known  Tourists'  Guide 
have  no  apology  to  offer  their  many  patrons  in 
presenting  to  the  traveling  public  a  new,  complete  and 
revised  edition  of  their  Guide,  which  has  been  estab- 
lished for  the  past  twelve  years.  They  feel  that  this 
splendid  edition  will  supply  a  want  that  has  long  been 
felt.  The  present  edition  will  contain  a  quantity  of 
new  subject  matter  which  has  been  prepared  expressly 
for  it.  The  Guide  in  its  new  form  not  only  describes 
all  the  famous  pleasure  and  summer  resorts  of  the  East, 
but  shows  how  to  reach  them  by  the  most  popular 
routes,  either  by  rail  or  water,  and  furnishes  to  the 
tourist  reliable  and  authentic  descriptions  of  them. 
The  reader  will  also  find  a  full  and  complete  description 
of  Chicago,  with  many  'new  and  beautiful  illustrations 
of  the  Queen  City  of  the  Lakes,  from  its  earliest 
settlement  down  to  the  present  time,  and  of  all  points 
of  interest  to  the  traveler  on  the  route  to  St.  Paul  and 
Minneapolis,  as  well  as  an  account  of  these  flourishing 
cities. 

Last  year's  edition  of  the  All  Round  Eoute  and 
Panoramic  Guide  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and 
Western  Tourists'  Guide,  in  its  new  form,  has  far 
exceeded  in  its  success  the  most  sanguine  anticipation  of 
the  proprietors,  and  they  feel  that  their  desire  to  publish 


INTRODUCTION, 

such  a  book  as  would  meet  the  requirements  of  the 
American  traveler  in  making  the  popular  tours  described 
therein,  has  been  fully  appreciated. 

They  feel  certain  that  the  present  edition  will  prove 
even  more  useful  and  attractive  than  all  previous  ones, 
advantage  having  been  taken  of  suggestions  made  in 
regard  to  alterations,  additions  and  improvements. 

The  work  is  profusely  illustrated,  and  furnished  with 
maps  of  the  various  routes.  It  also  gives  the  distances 
from  point  to  point,  full  descriptions  of  lakes,  rivers, 
mountains  and  everything  of  a  picturesque  nature  that 
will  attract  the  attention  of  the  traveler.  All  the 
information  given  is  the  result  of  actual  travel  over  the 
routes  and  to  the  points  described,  and  particular  care 
has  been  taken  to  collect  information  r>?specting  the 
various  railway  and  steamboat  lines  that  w  1  be  of  value 
to  the  tourist,  and  neither  time,  money  nor  labor  has 
been  spared  to  make  the  volume  reliable  in  every 
particular. 

The  Guide  will  undergo  a  thorough  annual  revision, 
and  the  publishers  will  be  thankful  for  any  corrections 
or  additinos  that  may  be  suggested. 


.^^.. 


CHISHOLM'S  ALL-ROUND  ROUTE 


P 


AND 


ANORAMIC 


G 


UIDE 


OF  THE 


RIVER  ST.  LAWRENCE, 


AND 


Western  Tourist's  Guide. 


THE    HUDSON    RIVER. 

jROBABLY  no  other  river  in  the  world  presents 
so  great  a  variety  of  views  as  the  Hudson. 
»(«*•  Throughout  its  whole  extent  there  is  a  combina- 
tion of  the  finest  views,  and  each  turn  in  its  course 
reveals  fresh  pictures  which  serve  to  illustrate  some  of 
the  best  scenery  of  the  Old  World.  Some  travelers 
have  pronounced  the  Hudson  grander  than  the  Rhine. 
Certainly  the  unprejudiced  opinion  of  tourists  will  agree 
with  that  of  Thackeray,  who  has  given  to  this  noble 
river  the  verdict  of  Beauty. 

The  distance  from  New  York  to  Albany  is  1 50  miles, 
and  to  Saratoga,  the  most  fashionable  watering-place  in 
America,  about  180  miles.  Several  routes  present 
themselves  to  the  tourist    In  order  to  better  view  the 


I 


6  Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide* 

scenery,  it  is  necessary  that  the  trip  up  the  grand  old 
Hudson  be  taken  by  dayh'ght,  and  we  take  pleasure  in 
recommending  to  the  notice  of  our  readers  the  splendid 


pa 


H 
H 
09 


steamers  of  the  several  lines  which  present  themselves  to 
the  tourist's  consideration,  commencing  with  The  Day 


-'    ! 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,  7 

Line  to  Albany,  comprising  the  elegant  steamers 
"  Albany,"  lately  built  by  the  line,  and  the  "  Chauncey 
Vibbard,"  which  has  recently  been  remodelled. 

These  steamers  are  indeed  floating  palaces  ;  for  the 
construction  and  appointments  of  the  vessels,  and  the 
luxurious  fittings  of  the  saloons,  are  not  surpassed  by 
any  other  line  of  boats  on  the  continent. 

The  "Albany,"  built  of  iron  in  1880,  is  the  latest 
addition  to  the  line,  and  is  all  that  skill,  experience  and 
money  can  make  her.  These  steamers  are  sister  boats, 
and  have  three  boilers  below  deck,  each  with  a  separate 
smoke  stack,  being  the  first  steamers  ever  constructed  in 
this  manner.  The  dining-saloons  are  on  the  main  deck, 
and  everything  is  so  arranged  that  passengers  can  enjoy 
every  comfort.  Leaving  New  York  daily,  except  Sun- 
day, these  steamers  make  all  the  important  landings 
along  the  Hudson  River,  arriving  in  Albany  in  the 
evening  in  time  to  make  direct  connection  with  all  trains 
north  and  west.  During  the  Saratoga  season  a  special 
day  boat  express  is  run  between  Albany  and  Saratoga, 
making  direct  connection  with  the  boats. 

THE  PALATIAL  STEAMERS  OF  THE   PEOPLE'S  LINE. 


The  only  thoroughly  comfortable  and  enjoyable  way 
of  traveling  between  New  York  City  and  Albany  during 
the  summer  and  fall  months  is  by  sLeamboat  on  the 
Hudson — the  Rhine  of  America.  The  picturesque 
scenery  of  the  Hudson,  with  its  palisades,  high-lands, 
and  ever  changing  panorama  of  beautiful  sights  has 
made  traveling  by  steamboat,  between  the  Capitol  and 
the  Metropolis,  the  popular  route.  The  advantages  of 
traveling  by  steamboat  over  a  ride  by  rail  are  numerous. 


■rt 

I: 


8 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


By  the  former  way  pure,  fresh  air  and  comfort  are 
enjoyed,  and  dust,  cinders,  heated  cars,  and  over-crowd- 
ing are  avoided.  Nowhere  in  the  world  are  there 
such  palatial  steamboats  employed  in  the  passenger 
traffic  as  sail  upon  the  waters  of  the  Hudson.  The 
majestic  steamers  of  the  People's  Line,  including  the 
famous  "  Drew,"  "  St.  John,"  and  "  Dean  Richmond,"  as  an 
extra  boat,  are  undoubtedly  the  most  popular  passenger 
vessels  plying  the  Hudson.  The  "  Drew  "  is  a  magnifi- 
<:ent  steamer,  and  is  the  pride  of  the  fleet  of  the  People's 
Line.  Her  dimensions  are  as  follows :  Length  over 
all,  400  feet ;  width  of  hull,  48  feet ;  width  over  the 
guards,  84  feet ;  depth  of  hold,  10  feet ;  draft  of  water, 
7  feet.  She  is  propelled  by  an  engine  of  82  inch 
cylinder,  15  feet  stroke,  carrying  from  20  to  25 
pounds  of  steam.  "The  "Drew"  is  of  2,500  tons 
burden,  and  has  sleeping  accommodations  for  nearly  one 
thousand  passengers ;  though,  as  far  as  safety  is  con- 
cerned she  can  carry  twice  that  number.  In  addition 
to  the  spacious  cabins  there  are  284  state  rooms, 
arranged  in  double  tiers,  sumptuously  furnished  with  fur- 
niture of  the  most  elaborate  description,  and  lighted  with 
gas.  The  grand  saloon  is  superbly  furnished,  brilliantly 
lighted,  glittering  with  mirrors  and  adorned  with  works 
of  art,  presenting  a  picture  of  refined  and  unequalled 
luxury.  The  appointments  are  made  with  the  sole  aim 
to  make  this  river-palace  comfortable  in  every  respect, 
and  a  journey  up  and  down  the  river  thoroughly  enjoy- 
able, and  it  must  be  admitted  that  there  is  no  room  to 
make  any  improvements.  What  is  true  of  the  "  Drew  " 
applies  with  equal  force  to  her  sister  steamboats.  These 
vessels  possess  remarkable  speed,  and  they  frequently 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.  9 

•I, 

'make  a  trip  between  Albany  and  New  York,  a  distance 
of  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  in  nine  hours.  These 
magnificent  steamers  leave  New  York  daily,  from  foot  of 
Canal  street,  Sundays  excepted,  at  6  p.m.  and  pass  the 
beautiful  scenery  of  the  Palisades  before  dark,  arriving  at 
•Albany  at  6  a.m.,  in  time  to  connect  with  trains  north 
iand  west. 

The  Citizens'  Steamboat  Company  of  Troy 
leave  New  York  from  Pier  49,  foot  of  Leroy  street,  daily, 
Saturdays  excepted,  at  6  p.  m.  This  line  comprises 
the  new  and  swift  steamers  "Saratoga"  and  "City  of 
Troy,"  which  arrive  in  Troy  the  following  morning,  in 
time  to  connect  with  through  trains  north. 

On  the  Sunday-night  trip  the  Troy  boats  stop  at 
Albany  to  leave  and  take  on  passengers,  the  two  lines 
thus  forming  a  daily  Hne  between  New  York  and  Albany. 

These  three  lines  of  steamboats  have  as  fine,  if  not  the 
finest  equipment  of  any  river  transportation  company  in 
the  world,  which,  with  courteous  attendance,  makes  them 
Favorite  modes  of  travel  with  the  traveling  public 

The  New  York  Central  and  Hudson  River 
Railroad,  leavij^g  Grand  Central  Depot,  New  York, 
corner  of  Forth-second  Street  and  Fourth  Avenue, 
affords  another  route  up  the  Hudson. 

The  trip  by  rail  can  be  made  in  five  and  one-half 
hours.  During  the  season,  special  Saratoga  expresses, 
composed  of  through  Wagner  drawing-room  cars,  leave 
New  York  twice  daily,  excepting  Sundays.  These,  in 
addition  to  the  numerous  other  trains,  afford  a  frequent, 
speedy,  and  pleasant  trip  to  the  great  watering-place, 
Saratoga.  " 


&•  vl 


\tti  1 


I 


10         All-Romtd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


'X\ 


I  ! 


POINTS  OF  INTEREST   ALONG   THE  ROUTE. 

Leaving  New  York  by  either  of  the  popular  lines  pre- 
viously mentioned,  the  steamer,  the  first  twelve  miles  of 
our  upward  journey,  skirts  along  the  Island  of  Manhat- 
tan, upon  which  the  city  of  New  York  is  built.  One  of 
the  first  objects  of  interest  we  see  on  the  right  hand,  is 
the  handsome  stone  edifice  of  the  New  York  Orphan 
Asylum,  where  nearly  200  children  of  both  sexes  are 
clothed,  fed,  taught,  and  ultimately  assisted  to  find 
respectable  employment.  The  happy  and  contented 
looks  of  these  poor  children  are,  perhaps,  the  most  satis- 
factory proofs  of  the  success  of  this  inestimable  institu- 
tion, which,  founded  in  1 806,  by  several  benevolent  ladies, 
has  gradually  progressed  until  it  now  occupies  the  stately 
and  comfortable  house  whose  gardens  stretch  down  to> 
the  very  edge  of  the  water. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  we  pass  by  the  yet 
picturesque  villages  of  Hoboken  and  Weehawken.  We 
S2iY  yet  picturesque,  as  their  close  proximity  to  that  great 
city  which  is  daily  traveling  onwards  would  make  one 
imagine  that  the  villas  and  street  palaces  of  its  merchants; 
would  mar  their  rural  beauty  ;  but  thffe  is  not  so.  How 
long  this  state  of  things  may  remain  it  is  impossible  to» 
conjecture,  as  large  beer  saloons,  pleasure  gardens,  and 
restaurants  are  daily  being  erected  here. 

Just  above  Manhattanville,  a  small  village,  and  one 
of  the  suburbs  of  New  York,  chiefly  occupied  by  the 
poorer  classes  of  people,  is  Trinity  Cemetery,  where, 
among  many  others,  lie  the  remains  of  Audubon,  the 
celebrated  naturalist,  whose  name  has  been  given  to  a 
small  village,  of  about  twenty  or  thirty  acres,  where 
he  used  to  live,  but  which,  since  his  death,  has  been  cut 


All-Round  Route  and 


ramie  Guide, 


ir 


up  into  building  lots,  and  still  retains  the  aristocratic 
name  of  Audubon  Park.  Just  beyond  this  park,  a  large 
building,  surmounted  by  a  cupola,  and  having  a  tower  at 
the  south-west  angle,  may  be  descried  among  the  trees. 
This  is  the  New  York  Institution  for  the  Deaf  and 
Dumb,  incorporated  1817,  which  is  probably  unequalled 
by  any  similar  establishment  in  America.  It  stands  in 
its  own  grounds  of  thirty-seven  acres,  and  the  terrace 
upon  which  the  buildings  (five  in  number,  arranged  in  a 
quadrangle)  are  erected,  is  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet 
above  the  river.  This  institution  alone  accommodates 
four  hundred  and  fifty  patients,  and  is  only  one  instance 
of  the  open-handed  liberality  and  discriminating  fore- 
sight of  those  in  the  State  of  New  York,  who  do  their 
best  to  alleviate  distress  in  whatever  form  it  may  appear 
among  their  fellow  creatures. 

We  here  approach,  on  the  same  side,  Fort  Washing- 
ton, or  Washington  Heights,  as  it  is  sometimes,  and  per- 
haps more  appropriately  called.  The  residence  of  the 
late  James  Gordon  Bennet  is  built  near  the  site  of  the 
Old  Fort.  The  ground  is  from  five  to  six  hundred  feet 
above  the  river,  and  the  view  from  this  /«pot  is  exceed- 
ingly fine,  the  eye  being  able  to  trace  the  windings  of 
the  Hudson  River  northward  for  many  miles,  whilst 
southward  the  great  city  we  have  just  left,  with  its 
suburbs  of  Brooklyn  and  Jersey  City,  can  be  plainly  seen>. 
though  ten  miles  off. 

We  now  leave  the  Island  of  Manhattan  behind  us, 
having  by  this  time  passed  abreast  of  the  Spuyten 
Duyvil  Creek,  which  separates  the  Island  from  the  rest 
of  the  State  of  New  Yord.  The  Hudson  River  Rail- 
road crosses  the  creek  by  a  long  bridge  laid  upon  piles,. 


■■if,: 


12         All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

*  . 

and   a  station  called  after  the   name  of  the  inlet,   is 

immediately  on  the  other  side  of  the  bridge.  On  the 
opposite  shore  of  the  river  that  singularly  beautiful  for- 
mation of  rock  called  "  The  Palisades,"  commences. 

From  the  summit  of  the  Palisades  a  magnificent  view 
is  obtained.  High  up  upon  the  crest  of  the  great 
escarpnient,  one  may  stand,  and  look  far  away  into  the 
west,  and  see  the  most  glorious  sunsets  that  ever  changed 
the  sky  to  gold  or  fire.  To  the  north  lie  the  highlands 
we  are  soon  to  pass,  stretched  out  in  the  noblest  panorama 
for  our  view,  and  to  the  south  the  river  flows  on  in  a 
broader  stream,  until  on  the  eastern  side  the  City  of 
New  York  begins,  and  the  stream  changes  its  aspect,  and 
passes  between  the  crowded  shores  that  send  out  across 
it  the  noisy  thunder  of  their  busy  life ;  and  palisades, 
and  rocky  hills,  and  long  reaches  of  still  stream,  and  green 
pleasant  banks,  make  a  sudden  end  as  the  Hudson 
sweeps  grandly  and  quietly  down  to  the  sea. 

The  Palisades  were  known  to  the  early  settlers  as  the 
Great  Chip  Rock.  These  rocks  are  from  three  to  six 
hundred  feet  high,  and  present  the  same  bold  front  to 
the  river  that  the  celebrated  Giant's  Causeway  does  to 
the  ocean.  They  extend  abont  1 5  miles  from  Fort  Lee 
to  the  hills  of  Rockland  county,  and  form  a  separating 
line  between  the  valley  of  the  Hudson  and  that  of  the 
Hackensack,  and  such  an  effectual  barrier  do  they  pre- 
sent, that  the  Hackensack  River  flows  side  by  side  with 
the  Hudson,  but  at  a  higher  level,  for  thirty  miles,  and 
at  a  distance  of  within  two  or  three  hundred  yards. 
The  rock  is  that  known  as  the  Basaltic  trap  rock,  one  of 
the  oldest  geological  formations. 

About  two  miles  and  a  half  above  Spuyten  Duyvil,  the 


Ail-Round  Itoute  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


15 


tourist  will  perceive  a  handsome  stone  castellated  build-^ 
ing.  This  was  erected  by  Mr.  Edwin  Forrest,  the  emi- 
nent tragedian,  as  a  residence,  and  is  called  Fonthill.  It 
has  now  changed  hands,  and  is  a  portion  of  the  building 
belonging  to  the  Convent  and  Academy  of  Mount  St. 
Vincent,  as  the  surrounding  neighborhood  is  called,  hav- 
ing a  station  on  the  Hudson  River  Railway.  Two  miles 
higher  up,  we  come  to  the  flourishing  village  of  Yonkers. 
Near  the  river  stands  an  old  building,  a  portion  of  which 
was  erected  in  1682  as  a  manor  house,  in  which  may  be 
seen  a  curious  fire-place,  formed  of  tiles  illustrating  Scrip- 
ture subjects,  100  in  all,  and  still  retaining  their  fresh 
appearance.  The  whole  interior  of  the  building  serves  to- 
mark  the  quaint,  yet  tasteful  style  of  house  decoration 
in  early  times.  This  building  (with  additions)  is  now 
used  as  a  town  hall.  Near  the  village,  the  little  Sawmill 
River  runs  into  the  Hudson.  The  whole  valley  through 
which  the  Sawmill  River  runs  is  very  beautiful,  and  the 
angler  will  find  the  stream  well  stocked  with  fish. 

Four  miles  more  steaming  through  a  strikingly  pic- 
turesque country,  brings  us  to  Hastings  and  Dobb's 
Ferry,  at  both  of  which  places  the  railroad,  which  runs 
along  the  river,  has  stations.  The  division  between  the 
States  of  New  Jersey  and  New  York  strikes  the  river  on 
the  left  bank,  just  opposite  Dobb's  Ferry,  and  henceforth 
our  journey  is  entirely  through  the  State  of  New  York. 
At  this  point  the  Palisades  may  be  said  to  end. 

We  now  approach  a  part  of  the  river  full  of  interesting 
associations  to  both  the  American  and  British  nations,, 
for  it  was  about  Tarrytown  and  Tappan,  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river,  during  the  American  revolution,  that 
Major  Andr^,  of  the  British  Army  was  hanged  as  a  spy,. 


«4 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


jii  after  having  been  made  fully, acquainted  with  plans  by 
which  West  Point  could  be  seized  by  the  British  troops ; 
Arnold  of  Washington's  Army,  having  turned  traitor  to 
his  cause.  Major  Andr^,  who  to  the  last  maintained  a 
character  for  personal  bravery,  terminated  his  life  as  a 
spy,  whilst  Arnold,  after  doing  his  best  to  deliver  his 
country  into  the  hands  of  its  enemies,  escaped  death  by 
placing  himself  under  the  protection  of  the  British  flag. 
Major  Andre's  body,  after  lying  interred  near  the  scene 
of  his  sad  fate  for  forty,  years,  was  at  last  given  over  to 
his  countrymen,  and  now  finds  a  resting  place  among  the 
great  and  the  good  men  of  Great  Britain  in  Westmin- 
ster Abbey. 

The  neighboring  districts  of  Tarry  town  and  Irvington 
are  rich  in  associations  of  that  greatest  of  American 
authors,  Washington  Irving.  About  half  a  mile  above 
Irvington,  on  the  right  hand  side  of  the  river,  may  be 
seen,  peeping  through  the  bower  of  trees  that  nearly 
hides  it  from  view,  the  charming  stone  cottage  called 
"  Sunnyside,"  the  home  of  Washington  Irving,  and  the 
place  where  most  of  his  novels  were  written.  The  cot- 
tage was  from  time  to  time  enlarged  and  improved, 
whenever  Irving  had  the  means  to  do  it,  and  it  has  now 
become  naturally  one  of  the  chief  objects  of  interest  in 
the  neighborhood.  Many  other  beautiful  estates  are  to 
be  seen  around,  and  if  time  is  a  matter  of  no  moment, 
we  can  well  advise  the  traveler  to  stop  here,  and  spend 
some  hours. 

Half  way  between  Irvington  and  Tarrytown,  and 
quite  close  to  the  river,  we  pass  by  a  conspicuous  house 
of  white  marble,  built  by  the  late  Mr.  Philip  Paulding, 
from  the  design  of  Mr.  Davis,  an  architect  of  some  merit. 


/ 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


15 


Another  mile  and  a  half  brings  us  to  Tarrytown,  twenty- 
nine  miles  from  New  York,  seeming  to  invite  the  tourist, 


with  its  white  villas  snugly  perched  on  the  hill-side,  to 
tarry  for  a  moment  in  the  town.     This  vicinity  possesses 


1 6         All-Round  Route  and  Panoramiic  Gmd^,. 


much  historic  interest,  being  on  the  debatable  ground  of 
the  Revolution,  whence  arose  the  two  orders  of  border 
chivalry  known  as  Cow-Boys  and  Skinners.,  Andr^  was 
here  captured  by  Paulding,  Van  Wurt,  and  Williams,  the 
American  Militia-men.  A  monument;  has  been  erected 
to  commemorate  the  spot.  Sleepy  Hollow^  made  famous 
by  the  writings  of  Washington  Irving,  is  a  short  distance 
above  the  old  brick-and-stone  Dutch  Church,  said  to  be 
the  oldest  church  in  New  York,  having  been  built  in 
1699.  The  old  bell  still  hangs  in  the  tower,  on  whose 
pointed  roof  is  an  iron  vane  which  bears  the  monogram 
of  Frederick  Philips,  the  founder  of  the  church. 

At  Sing  Sing,  the  next  station  on  the  line,  thirty-three 
miles  from  New  York,  the  tourist  may  possibly  exhibit, 
less  anxiety  to  tarry,  for,  as  is  well  known,  it  is  the  seat 
of  the  Mount  Pleasant  Prison,  belonging  to  the  State  of 
New  York,  The  village  itself  contains  about  seven 
thousand  inhabitants,  and  is  nearly  two  hundred  feet, 
above  the  river.  The  prison  is  built  near  the  river  and 
presents  a  tine  appearance ;  that  for  males  being  on  the 
lower  stage,  whilst  the  building  for  females  is  higher  up, 
the  slope.  It  has  been  completed  since  1830,  and  can 
accommodate  over  2,000  persons,  the  buildings  having 
from  time  to  time  been  increased  as  more  room  was, 
needed. 

Immediately  opposite  Sing  Sing,  the  Rockland  Lake 
Ice  Company  have  their  depot,  and  employ  a  large, 
number  of  men  each  winter  to  cut  and  store  ice  for  the 
coming  summer's  consumption  in  New  York.  It  is. 
curious  to  note  that  whereas  New  York  i3  almost  entirely 
supplied  with  ice  from  this  neighborhood,  it  is  also 
supplied  with  water  from  Croton  Lake,,  which  is  hard  by.. 


Ail-Round  Route  atui  Panoramic  Guide, 


17 


Fifty  to  sixty  million  gallons  of  water  are  contributed  by 
it  daily,  to  supply  New  York  with  this  necessary  of  life. 
The  water  is  conveyed  from  this  lake,  which  is  chiefly 
formed  by  a  long  dam  being  built  across  it,  through  an 
aqueduct  thirty-three  miles  long,  right  on  to  New  York. 
The  entire  cost  of  this  aqueduct  was  twelve  million 
dollars.  It  is  built  of  stone,  brick,  and  cement,  arched 
above  and  below,  seven  feet  eight  inches  wide  at  the  top, 
and  six  feet  three  inches  at  the  bottom,  the  side  walls 
being  eight  feet  five  inches  high.  A  few  more  miles 
travelling  takes  us  past  the  small  village  of  Haverstraw, 
which  gives  its  name  to  a  lovely  bay,  and  then  past  a 
limestone  quarry,  extending  along  the  bank  for  more  than 
half  a  mile,  and  two  hundred  feet  in  height,  and  which 
must  prove,  from  the  number  of  men  we  can  see  employed 
in  it,  a  very  profitable  speculation.  Two  miles  further 
on,  on  the  western  side  of  the  river,  is  Grassy  Point,  a 
small  village  where  bricks  are  made ;  and  again,  one  mile 
higher  up,  is  Stony  Point,  where  there  is  a  redoubt  of 
considerable  extent,  and  another  on  the  opposite  side, 
at  Verplank's  Point,  guarding  the  entrance  of  what  is 
called  the  Lower  Highlands. 

Three  miles  above  Stony  Point  is  Gibraltar,  or  Cald- 
well's Landing.  Dunderberg  Mountain  raises  its  tower- 
ing head  almost  immediately  in  rear  of  this  spot, 
Directly  opposite  is  Peekskill,  a  thriving  village  of  some 
five  or  six  thousand  inhabitants.  The  river  here 
makes  a  sudden  bend  to  the  west  This  is  called  the 
Race,  and  the  scenery  from  here  for  the  next  fifteen  miles 
is  unequalled  in  beauty.  On  the  right  we  pass  by  a  rocky 
promontory  called  Anthony's  Nose,  whilst  on  the  left  or 
western  side,  we  have  the  Dunderberg  Mountain  already 


Ill 


i8 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


V 

ii'i 
I'l 


alluded  to.  Anthony's  Nose  is  thirteen  hundred  feet 
above  the  surface  of  the  river.  The  Hudson  River  Rail- 
way has  had  to  tunnel  under  the  bottom  of  this  moun- 
tain for  a  distance  of  two  hundred  feet.  On  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river,  a  large  creek  can  be  seen,  where  vessels 
of  almost  any  size  could  anchor.  The  entrance  to  this 
creek  is  guarded  on  one  side  by  Fort  Clinton,  and  on  the 
other  by  Fort  Montgomery ;  the  two  so  close  to  one 
another  that  rifle  shots  could  be  easily  exchanged,  Fort 
Montgomery  being  on  the  northern  side,  and  Fort  Clin- 
ton on  the  lower.  Almost  immediately  under  the  shadow, 
as  it  were,  of  the  former  fort,  lies  the  picturesque  little 
island  of  lona,  belonging  to  Dr.  C.  W.  Grant,  and  covered 
in  the  summer  time  with  vines  and  pear  trees,  in  the  suc- 
cessful culture  of  which  the  worthy  Doctor  is  supposed 
to  be  unequalled. 

A  little  way  above  lona,  and  but  half  a  mile  below 
West  Point,  we  come  upon  the  Buttermilk  Falls,  caused 
by  the  flowing  down  of  a  small  stream  into  the  river 
below,  and  falling  over  the  hill-side  a  hundred  feet  in  as 
many  yards.  This  fall,  when  increased  by  any  late  rains 
or  swollen  by  freshets,  well  deserves  the  homely  name  by 
which  it  is  known,  the  snow-white  foam  truly  giving  it 
the  appearance  of  buttermilk. 

Half  a  mile  further  up  brings  us  to  "  Cozzen's  Hotel 
Dock  "  at  West  Point.  Here  the  vessel  on  which  we  are 
traveling  stops  for  a  while  to  land  passengers  who  are 
anxious  to  remain  a  day  or  so  at  Cozzen's  comfortable 
hotel.  This,  during  the  summer  season,  is  a  very  favor- 
ite resort,  and  much  crowded  ;  travellers  would  do  well 
to  make  use  of  the  telegraph  a  day  beforehand  to  be- 
speak accommodation,  or  they  may  find  themselves  dis- 
appointed on  their  arrival. 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


19 


This   familiar   resort    of  summer   pleasure-seekers    is 
perched  high  on  a  cliff,  the  most  prominent  for  many  miles 


along  the  river.     Nothing  could  be  more  picturesque  than 
its  situation,  high  up  in  the  air,  looking  down  upon  the 


I 


■'i-'-i 


I 


20 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide* 


noble  river.  It  is  several  hundred  feet  above  the  water, 
but  so  perpendicular  are  the  rocks  that  it  looks  twice  the 
real  distance.  The  view  of  the  old  building  upon  the 
wharf,  with  the  beetling  cliff  rising  abruptly  from  the  river, 
and  crowned  by  the  elegant  structure  above,  needs  but 
little  imagination  to  recall  the  scenery  on  many  parts  of 
the  Rhine. 

One  mile  more  brings  us  to  West  Point  itself,  the 
most  lovely  of  all  the  lovely  spots  on  the  river.  It  is  well 
known  as  the  great  Military  Academy,  and  is  situated  on 
a  plateau  two  hundred  feet  above  the  river.  It  was 
established  by  Act  of  Congress,  in  1 802,  and  has  usually 
about  three  hundred  cadets.  The  buildings,  many  of 
them,  are  elegant.  Near  the  abrupt  northern  level  of 
the  river  is  a  monument,  erected  by  the  students  of  1828, 
inscribed  "  KOSCIUSKO."  A  bronze  statue  of  General 
John  Sedgwick  is  erected  on  the  parade-ground.  He 
was  buried  in  Cornwall,  Connecticut,  and  the  statue  and 
tablet  to  his  memory  stand  in  the  town  of  Cornwall,  New 
York. 

Space  will  not  enable  us  to  enter  fully  into  a  descrip- 
tion of  the  course  of  instruction  pursued  ;  suffice  it  to  say 
that  the  fact  of  a  young  man  having  passed  through  the 
course  is  a  clear  proof  of  his  being  an  officer,  and  a  gentle- 
man in  its  broadest  sense.  The  traveler  may  well  pass  a 
few  hours  in  this  locality,  and  if  he  should  happen  to  be 
acquainted  with  any  of  the  professors,  or  cadets  in  the 
Military  College,  he  will  be  enabled  to  go  over  the  build- 
ings, different  galleries,  &c.,  and  judge  for  himself  as  to 
whether  the  instruction  and  discipline  kept  up  are  not 
likely  to  produce  some  of  the  finest  military  men — 
soldiers  that  any  European  nation  might  be  proud  of. 


All-Rotmd  Route  and  Pamramic  Guide. 


21 


West  Point  is  the  centre  of  a  host  of  reminiscenes  of  the 
War  of  the  Revolution.  Upon  its  defence,  was  concen- 
trated the  attention  and  efforts  of  Congress,  and  it 
became  one  of  the  most  important  military  posts  in  the 
country.  Here  from  Gee's  Point,  was  stretched  across 
the  River  Hudson  a  huge  chain  to  stop  the  passage  of 
vessels  above  this  point  It  was  laid  across  a  boom  of 
heavy  logs,  that  floated  close  together.  These  were  i6 
feet  long,  and  pointed  at  each  end,  so  as  to  offer  little 
resistance  to  the  tidal  current  The  chain  was  fastened  to 
these  logs  by  staples,  and  at  each  shore  by  huge  blocks 
of  wood  and  stone,  Several  of  the  great  links  of  this 
chain  are  preserved  at  the  Point 

Reluctantly  we  must  draw  ourselves  away  from  West 
Point,  and  allow  our  steamer  to  plough  her  way  once 
more  along  the  flowing  current,  and  between  the  shady 
and  overhanging  cliffs  which  give  so  much  character  to 
the  scene  at  this  spot  A  very  few  revolutions  of  the 
wheel  will  bring  us  between  the  Boterberg  Mountain 
on  the  western  side,  and  the  rock  called  Breakneck,  on 
the  eastern  bank,  forming  an  imposing  entrance  to  New- 
burg  Bay,  from  which  a  series  of  mountains,  hills  and 
cliffs  rise  in  succession,  until  they  seem  almost  to  shut 
out  all  remaining  nature,  and  to  give  the  idea  that  one  is 
at  the  bottom  of  a  large  basin  from  which  there  is  no 
possible  exit  Crownest  is  the  principal  of  these  moun- 
tains, rising  almost  directly  from  the  river  bank  to  a  height 
of  nearly  one  thousand  five  hundred  feet  As  the  side  of 
this  mountain  is  entirely  covered  with  foliage,  the  aspect 
of  it  in  the  summer  time  is  most  beautiful,  and  only  to 
be  exceeded  by  the  coup  cCoeil  in  the  commencement  of 
October,  when  the  fall  tints  are  in  their  richest  and  most 


It    ' 


Til*-, 


.>'?"'■  J I 


mi 


22 


All-Romid  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


luxuriant  profusion.  Soon  after  passing  between  the  two 
rocks,  we  come  to  a  small  town  called  Cornwall,  on  the 
western  shore.  This  is  a  place  of  very  general  resort 
in  summer,  and  is  much  noted  for  its  many  pleasant 
drives  and  walks.  Its  nearness  to  the  river,  and  to  West 
Point,  makes  it  a  very  favorite  place  for  travelers  to  spend 
a  few  days,  whilst  many  stay  here  a  very  much  longer 
time  during  the  v/arm  weather. 

The  Linden-Park  Hotel  is  nicely  kept,  and  well 
patronized.  Idlewild,  well-known  as  the  residence  of 
the  late  N.  P.  Willis,  is  a  little  north  of  the  village. 
Opposite  is  Cold  Spring,  fifty-three  miles  from  New  York. 
Here  is  Undercliff,  the  beautiful  home  of  Geo.  P.  Morris. 
Above  this  is  Bull  Hill,  now  called  Mount  Taurus, 
1,586  feet  high.  Beacon  Hill,  1,685  feet  high,  is  the  last 
of  the  Highlands;  and  when  we  consider  the  points  of 
history,  poetry  and  beauty  blended  together,  we  can 
assume  that  this  fifty  miles  of  scenery  is  unequalled  by 
any  in  the  world. 

Between  Cornwall  and  Newburg  lies  the  once  pros- 
perous, but  now  sadly  decayed,  settlement  of  New 
Windsor.  It  is  now  almost  entirely  a  collection  of  small 
houses  in  great  want  of  repair.  On  the  shore,  but  higher 
above  it  on  the  plateau,  one  can  discover  several  large 
farms  with  comfortable  houses,  giving  the  idea  that 
if  there  is  decay  below,  there  is  prosperity  above. 
Leaving  the  tumble-down  village  either  to  be  repaired, 
or  to  fall  into  still  greater  decay,  we  will  approach  the 
more  flourishing  town  of  Newburg,  where  the  steamer 
stops  for  a  few  minutes  to  discharge  some  of  its  passen- 
gers, and  to  take  up  others,  and  we  will  employ  these  few 
minutes  in  viewing  the  substantial  streets  and  houses  of 


All-Rotind  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


23 


the  town,  which,  by  the  by,  we  should  have  designated  a 
city,  seeing  that  it  boasts  of  a  mayor  and  corporation  of 
its  own.  The  first  settlement  at  Newburg  was  made  as 
early  as  1 709  by  some  emigrants  from  the  Palatinate ; 
since  then,  English,  Irish,  Welsh,  Scotch  and  Germans 


have  followed  their  example ;  but  of  all  these  varied 
nationalities  the  Scotch  have,  perhaps,  done  the  most 
towards  making  the  place  what  it  is.  Among  the  large 
buildings  is  an  extensive  flannel  factory,  in  which  a  very 
large  number  of  hands  are  daily  employed. 


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24 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


Exactly  opposite  Newburg,  is  the  more  modest-look- 
ing village  of  Fishkill  Landing,  from  which  place, 
any  traveller  anxious  to  ascend  the  South  Beacon  hill, 
can  do  so  with  the  assistance  of  any  of  the  boy  guides  to 
be  picked  up  in  the  streets  of  the  village ;  and  let  us  tell 
the  traveller  that  he  had  better  avail  himself  of  our 
advice,  and  take  a  guide,  or  before  he  reaches  the  top  he 
may  have  repented  of  not  having  done  so,  as  it  is  quite 
easy  to  lose  oneself  in  the  numerous  gorges  and  ravines 
that  are  about  the  summit  of  the  Beacon.  As  this  is 
one  of  the  highest  mountains  about  here,  the  view  from 
the  top  is  most  extensive  and  interesting.  Far  up  to 
the  north  the  Catskill  Mountains  can  be  discerned,  while 
to  the  east  the  Shawangunk  hills  are  to  be  seen.  South- 
wards, again,  Boterberg  and  Breakneck,  already  seen, 
guard  the  pass  through  which  the  river  running  at  our 
feet  finds  its  way  down  to  the  sea.  But  it  is  time  that 
we  should  descend  from  our  lofty  position,  and  go  on  our 
way  up  the  river. 

A  broad,  rocky  platform,  jutting  out  into  the  river,  can- 
not fail  to  attract  the  traveler's  attention.  This  is  called 
the  "  Devil's  Danskammer,"  -or  Dancing  Chamber,  and, 
down  to  a  comparatively  late  date,  was  used  by  the 
Indians  as  the  scene  of  some  of  their  religious  ceremonies. 

For  about  the  next  five  miles,  we  steam  on  through  a 
pretty  country,  though  without  finding  anything  striking 
enough  to  draw  attention,  until  we  pass  the  little  village 
of  New  Hamburg,  lying  at  the  mouth  of  Wappinger 
Creek,  which  is  navigable  for  some  distance  up.  The 
railroad  crosses  the  Wappinger  by  a  causeway  and  draw- 
bridge, and  then  pierces  a  promontory  jutting  out  into 
the  river,  by  a  tunnel  about  eight  hundred  feet  long. 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


25 


New  Hamburg  is  a  pretty  little  village,  but  nothing  more. 
About  a  mile  higher  up,  and  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river,  is  another  village  called  Hampton  ;  then  comes 
Marlborough,  two  miles  higher  up  still,  with  Barnegat 
nearly  opposite,  on  the  right  hand  side,  and  again  Milton 
Landing  two  miles  more,  on  the  left  hand  side. 
As  these  villages  lie  mostly  on  the  high  banks  of  the 
river,  there  is  not  much  to  be  seen  of  them  from  the  boats, 
but  they  act  as  outlets  or  ports  to  the  country  districts 
lying  behind  them;  and,  judging  from  the  numerous 
comfortable-looking  country-houses  in  their  immediate 
neighborhood,  must  be  tolerably  thriving. 

As  already  stated,  these  villages  are  hardly  important 
enough  to  require  mention,  but  we  now  approach  a  city 
of  some  twenty-five  thousand  inhabitants,  rejoicing  in 
the  peculiar  name  of  Poughkeepsie.  As  we  near  this 
point  we  pass  Locust  Grove,  the  summer  home  of  the 
late  Professor  Morse,  of  "telegraph  fame."  Pough- 
keepsie is  nearly  half-way  between  New  York  and 
Albany,  being  seventy-five  miles  from  the  former,  and 
about  seventy  from  the  capital  of  the  State  through 
which  we  are  passing.  This  "  rural  city,"  as  an  Ameri- 
can writer  has  termed  it,  lies  pleasantly  upon  its  group  of 
hills,  and  overlooks  a  bright  river-view.  By  day  the 
smoke  of  its  busy  mills  and  factories  somewhat  mars  the 
scene,  but  as  night  draws  on,  these  light  up  the  river  like 
beacons,  and  the  sound  of  the  ponderous  machinery 
and  roaring  furnaces  greets  our  ears  and  tells  of  the 
energy  of  the  citizens.  It  was  originally  settled  by  the 
Dutch,  towards  the  close  of  the  seventeenth  century,  and 
is  situated,  like  most  of  their  river  cities,  at  the  mouth  of 
a  tributary  stream  or  creek.    The  village,  as  it  was  then, 


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26 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


has  much  extended,  and  now  occupies  the  large  open 
plain,  about  two  hundred  feet  above  the  river.  The 
streets  are  broad,  handsome,  and  well  planted  with  trees, 
affording  in  summer  grateful  shelter  from  the  piercing 
rays  of  the  sun.  Poughkeepsie  is  best  known  for  the 
very  excellent  schools  and  colleges  which  it  contains. 

Among  the  many  public  institutions  located  here  may  be 
mentioned  Eastman's  Business  University;  Vassar  College, 
the  munificent  gift  of  Matthew  Vassar ;  the  Riverview  Mili- 
tary Academy,  Poughkeepsie  Military  Academy,  Pough- 
keepsie Female  Academy,  Cottage  Hill  Ladies'  Seminary, 
Collegiate  Institute  for  Young  Ladies.  The  State  Hospital 
for  the  Insane  will,  when  completed,  accommodate  four 
hundred  patients.  It  is  open  for  the  admission  of  acute 
cases  of  both  sexes.  The  drive  to  Hyde  Park,  five  miles 
north,  is  one  of  the  finest  on  the  Hudson.  The  State 
Legislature  met  here  in  1777  and  1778;  and  the  State 
Convention  which  ratified  the  Federal  Constitution  met 
here  in  1788.  An  ancient  stone  structure,  with  loopholes, 
built  in  1705,  and  known  as  the  Van  Kleck  house,  is  an 
object  of  curiosity  to  the  antiquarian. 

Six  miles  above  Poughkeepsie,  after  a  sudden  bend  in 
the  river,  we  come  upon  some  rocky  and  precipitous 
banks.  This  used  to  be  called  by  the  original  settlers 
"Krom  Elleboge,"  but  has  since  been  Anglicised  into 
"Crum  Elbow."  Quite  close  to  this,  only  higher  up 
the  river,  stands  the  village  of  Hyde  Park,  called  after 
a  former  Governor  of  the  State  of  New  York,  Sir  Edward 
Hyde,  who,  we  regret  to  say,  did  not  leave  a  very  satis- 
factory reputation  behind  him ;  his  tyrannical  and 
unprincipled  conduct  being  well  known  to  all  who  have 
studied  the  history  of  New  York  when  under  British  rule. 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


27 


Rhinebeck  Landing  lies  about  two  miles  away  from 
the  village  of  the  same  name,  which  was  first  settled  by 
one  William  Beekman,  a  German,  who  came  from  the 
neighborhood  of  the  Rhine,  and  called  the  place  partly 
in  honor  of  his  birthplace  and  partly  after  himself.  Imme- 
diately opposite  Rhinebeck  Landing,  across  the  river,  is 
Rondout;  and  Kingston,  a  quiet  little  village,  which  was 
burnt  by  the  British  in  October,  1777.  The  Delaware 
and  Hudson  Canal,  built  in  1828,  terminates  here.  Its 
coal  business  makes  this  one  of  the  most  active  business 
places  on  the  Hudson.  The  canal  is  one  hundred  and 
nine  miles  long,  and  extends  to  the  Lackawaxen  River 
in  Pennsylvania. 

Above  here,  may  be  seen  Rokeby,  the  estate  of  the  late 
William  B.  Astor.  Next  above,  is  Montgomery  Place, 
built  by  the  widow  of  Gen.  Montgomery,  who  fell  in  the 
assault  on  Quebec,  in  1775  ;  and  now  owned  by  her 
brother,  Edward  Livingston.  Two  miles  above  is  Crugers 
Island,  of  great  natural  beauty  and  cultivation.  Between 
this  and  Hudson,  fifteen  miles  off,  we  come  upon  a 
number  of  large  substantially  built,  and  handsome 
country-houses,  with  lawns  of  smooth  turf  stretching 
down  towards  the  river,  and  an  air  of  luxury  and  wealth 
pervading  the  whole  estates. 

Six  miles  above  Rhinebeck  is  Barrytown,  and  four 
miles  above  Barrytown  is  Tivoli,  each  of  them  possessing 
a  station  on  the  railroad,  though,  like  many  of  the  other 
villages  we  have  had  a  glance  at,  small  and  unpretentious, 
having,  however,  possibly  a  vast  idea  of  their  own  im- 
portance, as  a  great  deal  of  the  farm  and  garden  produce 
of  these  villages  is  sent  up  to  supply  the  wants  of  Fifth 
Avenue,  and  other  districts  of  the  great  city.     Opposite 


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Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


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Tivoli,  on  the  western  bank  of  the  river,  stands  a  flourish- 
ing little  village  called  Saugerties,  it  the  mouth  of  the 
Esopus  Creek.  This  little  place  boasts  manufactories  of 
iron,  paper,  and  white  lead,  and  a  fine  flagstone  quarry. 
Two  miles  from  Saugerties,  we  pass  Maiden,  which  lies 
backed  by  the  Catskill  Mountains,  and  about  ten  miles 
on  we  come  to  the  large  village  of 

CATSKILL, 

one  hundred  and  eleven  miles  from  New  York.  It  takes 
its  name  from  the  large  creek  which  flows  through  it 
Sept.  20,  1609,  Hendrick  Hudson  anchored  "The  Half- 
Moon"  here.     ' 

Passengers  from  New  York  by  railroad,  who  wish  to 
ascend  the  mountains  must  alight  at  Catskill  Station, 
and  cross  by  ferry  to  the  village,  and  we  sincerely  recom- 
mend our  travellers  to  avail  themselves  of  this  trip.  They 
will  find  plenty  of  omnibusses  and  stages  to  take  them 
to  the  Mountain  House,  and  the  Clove,  about  twelve 
miles  off".  We  shall  not  attempt  to  describe  the  scenery, 
which,  at  this  point,  must  be  seen  to  be  appreciated.  The 
Mountain  House  is  traditionally  attractive  ;  its  elevation 
above  the  Hudson  is  twenty-two  hundred  feet,  and  it  is 
built  on  a  flat  rock  on  the  very  edge  of  a  precipice  nearly 
4,000  feet  above  the  river !  The  view  from  the  piazza 
is  truly  wonderful  It  is  of  a  most  extensive  character, 
embracing  a  region  gf  about  ten  thousand  square  miles 
in  extent,  portions  even  of  Vermont,  Massachusetts,  and 
Connecticut  being,  on  a  fine  day,  plainly  visible,  whilst  at 
least  sixty  miles  of  the  Hudson  River  can  be  seen  shining 
like  a  broad  silver  belt  at  our  feet  The  sunrise  and  a  thunder 
storm  are  especial  attractions  at  the  Mountain  House. 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide^ 


29 


The  Prospect  Park  Hotel  is  situated  on  a  terrace, 
which  comprises  seventeen  acres,  elevated  some  two 
hundred  feet  above  the  river.  The  main  building  is  two 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  front,  with  wing  ninety  feet 
Guests  can  find  here  quiet,  pleasure,  shade,  and  sunshine. 
The  fresh  bracing  air  of  the  mountains  makes  Catskill  one 
of  the  pleasantest  places  to  spend  the  noontide  of  the 
summer. 

Two  miles  from  the  summit  is  a  rude  cabin,  famous  as 
the  reported  site  of  Rip  Van  Winkle's  long  nap. 

**  Through  years  of  mighty  waves — 
^  To  wake  to  science  grown  to  more,  - 

To  find  the  sign  of  another  George 
Swinging  above  the  tavern  door  !" 

Thomas  Cole,  the  painter,  has  transcribed  some  of  the 
beauties  of  this  wonderful  region  in  the  scenes  of  his 
"Voyage  of  Life." 

"The  most  famous  beauty  of  the  region  is  the  fall  of 
the  Kaaterkill.  On  the  high  table-land  of  the  South  and 
North  Mountains  lie  two  lakes,  buried  in  a  dense  forest. 
A  little  brook,  making  its  way  from  these  lakes,  westward 
along  the  shoulder  of  the  Mountain,  soon  reaches  the 
edge  of  a  very  deep  declivity,  over  which  it  leaps  into  a 
deep  pool  in  the  centre  of  a  great  amphitheatre  of  rock. 

"Gathering  its  strength  again,  the  torrent  makes  a 
second  leap  over  huge  boulders,  which  have  fallen  from 
thf  ] fudges  above,  and  lie  scattered  down  the  glen,  dash- 
ing itself  into  foam  in  its  headlong  fury.  Tumbling  from 
one  ledge  to  another,  it  reaches  at  length  the  bottom  of 
the  glen,  when,  meeting  the  stream  that  flows  from 
Haine's  Fall,  the  mingled  waters  hurry  down  the  stony 
pathway  through  the  Cove,  and  out  into  the  valley,  until. 


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30 


All- Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


swollen  to  a  wide  stream,  they  glide  placidly  into  the 
Hudson  at  the  village  of  Catskill.  There  is  nothing 
more  beautiful  in  American  scenery  than  this  waterfall, 
as  it  leaps  from  the  lofty  height,  and  dashes  into  spray 
in  the  hollow  basin  below.  The  strata  of  which  the 
mountain  is  formed  lie  piled  upon  one  another  horizon- 
tally, and  through  them  the  water  has  cut  its  way, 
smoothly  like  a  knife.  Some  distance  above  the  margin 
of  the  pool  in  which  the  fallen  waters  boil  as  in  a  cauldron, 
there  is  a  stratum  of  soft  stone  which  has  broken  up  and 
crumbled  in  the  dampness.  Wearing  away  several  yards 
deep  into  the  cliff,  it  has  left  a  pathway  all  around  the 
Fall,  from  which  you  have  a  fine  view,  and  often,  when 
the  stream  above  is  swollen,  through  a  veil  of  glittering 
drops  dripping  from  the  r'^cks  above.  Exquisite  as  is 
the  effect  of  the  whole  Fall,  when  seen  from  the  rocks  at 
the  foot  of  its  second  leap,  this  last  point  of  view  is  even 
more  striking.  Standing  on  the  narrow  pathway,  you 
look  through  the  great  white  veil  of  falling  waters,  leap- 
ing out  over  your  head  and  sending  up  clouds  of  spray 
that  float  off  down  the  gorge.  Sometimes,  when  the  sun 
is  shining  brightly,  a  dancing  rainbow  will  keep  pace 
with  you  as  you  creep  around  the  semi-circle  beneath  the 
rock.  Here,  too,  you  get  an  enchanting  glimpse  of  the 
edges  of  the  Clove,  down  which  the  stream  goes  head- 
long, and  can  mark  the  wild  figures  of  the  pines  that 
cling  to  the  verge  of  the  cliffs,  and  seem,  with  their  black 
spears,  to  pierce  the  sky. 

"  Upon  the  very  edge  of  the  precipice,  close  to  the 
narrow  channel  through  which  the  fall  makes  its  plunge, 
there  is  a  tree  which  has  grown  out  from  a  crevice,  and 
then  upward  until  it  juts  out  over  the  abyss.    To  this 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


31 


solitary  tree,  the  lad  who  acts  as  your  guide  points  with 
his  finger,  and  tells  you  of  the  adventurous  young 
woman,  who  crept  out  to  the  rock,  and,  clasping  the 
slender  trunk  of  the  tree  with  her  hands,  swung  her  body 
far  out  over  the  Fall,  and  then,  with  a  cry  of  triumph, 
back  again  in  safety. 

"Beneath  the  second  Fall  the  gorge  is  wild  in  the 
extreme.  On  both  sides,  the  mountains  rise  perpen- 
dicularly, clad  with  a  dense  forest,  and,  through  the 
shade  beneath,  the  torrent  roars  ceaselessly  among  the 
rocks." 

Five  miles  from  the  Catskill  Station,  on  the  eastern 
side  of  the  river,  we  come  to  the  large  and  handsomely- 
built  city  of  Hudson,  the  chief  town  of  Columbia  county, 
one  hundred  and  seventeen  miles  from  New  York,  and 
thirty  from  Albany.  The  city  is  built  on  an  eminence 
above  the  river,  like  many  of  the  other  villages  we 
have  passed  in  our  course.  The  streets  are  wide  and 
well  laid  out,  and  altogether  the  place  has  an  air  of  thrift 
and  prosperity.  The  principal  street  is  called  the 
Promenade,  and  laid  out  with  trees  and  shrubs  with 
excellent  taste.  One  side  is  built  with  handsome  houses, 
and  the  other  is  open  to  the  river,  and  runs  along  the 
bank  for  nearly  a  mile. 

Leaving  the  city  of  Hudson,  via  the  well-equipped 
train  of  the  BOSTON  &  Albany  R.R.,  a  distance  of  forty 
miles  brings  us  to  Pittsfield,  the  County  seat,  charmingly 
situated  in  the  midst  of  great  natural  scenery,  and 
offering  to  the  tourist  or  traveler,  many  rich  and  rare 
delights,  each  well  worthy  of  special  mention. 


im 


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32 


All-Round  Route  end  Patwramic  Guide, 


PITTSFIELD. 

[F  the  many  places  in  the  Old  Bay  State  made 
famous  in  late  years,  either  as  seats  of  learning,  or 
for  their  various  attractions  to  summer  guests, 
none  surpass  the  town  of  Pittsfield.  Its  six  miles  square 
of  territory  occupy  the  very  centre  of  the  "Berkshire 
Hills,"  and  though  a  little  south  of  the  "  divide  "  that 
separates  the  waters  of  the  Hoosac  and  the  Housatonic 
Rivers,  are  yet  over  i,ooo  feet  above  the  level.  The 
centre  of  this  central  area  rises  gently  from  the  general 
level,  and  so  commands  most  charming  views  of  the 
finest  summits  of  the  county ;  the  long  and  beautiful 
ranges  of  the  Hoosac  mountains  on  the  east,  and  the 
mountains  of  Vermont,  rise  some  1,500  feet  from  the 
valley  at  a  distance  of  four  miles  each  from  the  centre, 
and  the  twin  summits  of  the  Saddle  mountains,  one 
of  which  is  near  4,000  feet  above  the  tide  water, 
look  down  upon  it  1 5  miles  away  from  the  north.  The 
town  thus  claims  within  its  own  limits,  or  within  the 
easy  reach  of  a  few  hours'  drive,  a  large  share  of  the  "  deli- 
cious surprises"  of  Berkshire.  It  rivals  the  famous  scenery 
of  Lenox,  on  its  southern  border,  and  Stockbridge  and 
Williamstown,  places  made  classic  by  the  pens  and  the 
residences  of  Hawthorne  and  Holmes,  Fanny  Kembleand 
the  Sedgwicks,  Melville  and  Longfellow ;  the  brush  of 
artists  like  Gray  and  DeHaas,  and  the  life-work  of  men 
like  Griffin,  Mark  and  Albert  Hopkins,  and  John  Todd. 
Williams'  College,  the  Hoosac  Tunnel,  Lebanon  Springs, 
the  parent  settlement  of  the  Shakers,  and  also  Lenox 
and  Stockbridge,  already  named,  with  many  resorts  of 
lesser  fame,  are  among  the  vivid  memories  and  life-long 
treasures  of  tourists  and  summer  guests. 


All-Roiind  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


Ij 


The  city  itself — for  Pittsfield  has  compact  business 
streets,  manufactures,  churches,  halls  and  other  advan- 
tages of  our  large  cities,  needing  only  its  own  act  accept- 
ing its  charter  to  make  it  a  city  in  name — has  its  broad 
tree-lined  streets,  adorned  by  many  beautiful  residences 
with  ample  grounds,  while  its  public  and  private 
schools,  its  church  organizations,  its  railroad  and  tele- 
graph facilities,  and  the  rare  intelligence,  refinement  and 
wealth  of  its  citizens,  complete  its  claims  to  the  notice  of 
pec  pie  seeking  summer  rest,  or  permanent  residence, 
busii;ess  advantages,  or  the  education  of  their  children.  In 
fact,  we  know  of  no  place  in  any  section  of  the  country 
that  can  compare  with  it  in  these  respects. 

Pittsfield  can  boast  of  many  handsome  public  buildings 
as  well  as  stores  and  private  dwellings.  Many  of  the  latter 
are  very  noteworthy,  especially  those  of  the  Hon.  Thomas 
Allen,  late  President  of  the  St  Louis  &  Iron  Mountain 
R.R. ;  Mrs.  Pollock's, — a  beautiful  residence,  with  magni- 
ficent drives,  walks,  lawns,  trees,  shrubbery,  etc. ;  and 
many  others  which  our  limited  space  will  not  permit  of 
describing,  yet  all  of  which  should  be  seen  by  visitors  in 
order  to  be  appreciated.  Among  the  public  buildings 
worthy  of  notice  are  the  Court  House,  a  costly  white 
marble  edifice,  which  reflects  credit  upon  the  city, 
and  many  handsome  churches,  particularly  the  costly 
and  spacious  Methodist  Church,  and  the  Roman 
Catholic  Church,  the  latter  by  far  the  finest  in  the 
Western  part  of  the  State.  Entering  the  beautiful  Park, 
located  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  village,  the  tourist  will 
observe  a  very  fine  monument,  which  was  built  some  ten 
years  ago  by  Pittsfield's  patriotic  citizens,  as  a  tribute  to 
her  fallen  heroes  who' gave  up  their  lives  in  fighting  for 

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34 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


their  flag,  and  in  sustaining  their  country's  honor  and 
liberty  ;  this  monument  was  dedicated  with  very  impos- 
ing ceremonies  on  September  24th,  1872.  Directly 
opposite  the  park  will  be  seen  the  Berkshire  Athenaeum, 
a  very  unique  building  composed  of  Bluestone,  Freestone, 
and  Red  Granite.  Pittsfield  can  well  feel  proud  of  this 
beautiful  structure,  which  is  not  only  a  credit  to  the 
village,  but  stands  as  a  lasting  monument  to  perpetuate 
the  memory  as  well  as  the  generous  liberality  of  the  Hon. 
Thos.  Allen  and  other  enterprising  citizens  of  Pittsfield 
and  vicinity,  who  have  so  liberally  endowed  it  We  next 
take  great  pleasure  in  calling  the  tourist's  attention  to 


iii 


MAPLEWOOD    INSTITUTE    FOR    YOUNG    LADIES,   PITTS- 
FIELD,  MASS. 

The  institution  of  widest  fame  in  Pittsfield  for  nearly 
half  a  century  is  the  Maplewood  Institute  for  young 
ladies,  which  for  over  half  that  period  has  been  under 
the  care  of  its  present  well-known  Principal,  Rev.  C.  V. 
Spear.  Its  grounds,  disinterested  but  admiring  friends 
liken  to  those  of  Yale  and  Harvard,  partly,  perhaps, 
because  the  shades  of  each  are  "  classic,"  and  very  abun- 
dant. Maplewood  measures  but  six  acres,  but  many  of 
its  numerous  elms  and  maples  have  yielded  their  grateful 
and  now  ample  shade  for  over  fifty  years  ;  and  its  pleasing 
walks,  and  vases  and  flower-  beds,  with  many  a  rare 
exotic,  its  luxuriant  flowering  shrubs,  and  its  vine- 
covered  verandas,  tempering  the  dazzling  white  of  its 
well  painted  walls  and  Grecian  columns,  with  its  charm- 
ing statues  and  beautiful  fountain,  make  it  easily  foremost 
among  the  ladies'  schools  of  the  country  in  its  physical 
abode.     The  accompanying  cuts,  all  from  photographs, 


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save  the  largest  which  had  to  be  drawn  to  exclude 
the  foliage  so  as  to  show  the  building,  truly  represent 
the  place.  Nor  do  these  attractions,  with  the  invigor- 
ating climate  of  the  Berkshire  Hills,  constitute  its  chief 


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claim  to  superiority  among  its  rivals ;  a  well  filled  library, 
large  cabinets  of  minerals,  shells,  and  apparatus,  and  a 
fine  conservatory,  afford  their  invaluable,  and  in  modern 
methods  of  teaching,  indispensable  aid  to  accomplished 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


37 


teachers  in  every  department  of  a  useful  and  thorough 
education.  Some  dozen  pianos  and  a  full  church  organ 
are  in  constant  use  by  the  pupils  in  music,  and  their  pro- 
fessors are  widely  and  favourably  known.     Its  studio  is 


also  well  supplied  with  models  and  crowded  with  enthu- 
siastic young  artists,  guided  and  stimulated  by  experi- 
enced and  able  teachers.  A  skilful  elocuti(^iist  gives 
instruction  in  that  most  desirable  department  of  a  good 


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education,  while  a  suitably  furnished  gymnasium,  the 
oldest,  and  still  the  largest  for  any  ladies'  school  in  the 
country,  supplies  a  drill  and  other  exercise  needed  by 
sedentary  students  scarcely  more  in  winter  and  in  storm, 
than  in  the  pleasant  season  of  the  year.  It  is  not  one 
of  the  least  of  the  advantages  that  Maplewood  offers  to 
its  students  that  its  attendance,  from  the  best  families  in 
all  parts  of  the  country,  is  yet  so  limited  in  numbers  as 
to  afford  a  most  desirable  medium  between  the  larger 
colleges  and  strictly  family  schools.  With  excellent 
educational  appliances  as  usually  reckoned,  the  wants  of 
the  individual  pupil  are  met,  and  invaluable  opportunity 
is  afforded  for  intimacy  of  intercourse  with  earnest^ 
faithful,  and  accomplished  lady  and  gentlemen  instruc- 
tors. 

Correspondents  seeking  such  a  school  will  be  promptly 
furnished  with  its  prospectus  and  catalogue  on  applica- 
tion to  the  Principal.  For  several  reasons  the  grounds 
and  buildings  have  been  thrown  open  during  the  long 
vacation  as  a  summer  resort.  Competent  and  successful 
managers  have  made  an  enlargement  of  its  accommoda- 
tion necessary,  and  now  about 'one  hundred  and  fifty 
guests  can  be  received.  A  competent  manager,  well 
known  to  the  patrons  of  Maplewood,  will  have  charge 
of  the  place  during  the  coming  season. 

The  drives  in  the  vicinity  are  very  fine,  and  probably 
more  beautiful  and  interesting  scenery  may  be  seen  by 
taking  a  circuitous  drive  to  the  various  points  of  interest, 
than  in  any  other.  To  leave  Pittsfield  without  having 
taken  one  of  the  drives  referred  to,  would  be  one  of  the 
greatest  p<>ssible  omissions  on  the  part  of  the  visitor ; 
half  a  day  is  all  that  is  required  for  this  purpose,  and  the 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


39 


liveries  in  the  city  are  first-class,  and  very  reasonable  in 
their  charges. 

The  most  prominent  places  of  interest  are  as  follows  : 
Pontoosuc  Lake,  Balance  Rock,  Lula  Cascade,  Berry 
Pond,  Arethusan  Streams,  Fort  Ashley,  Lake  Onota^ 
Perry's  Peak,  Lanesboro'  Hill,  Wahconah  Falls,  Ashley 
Lake. 


LAKE   ONOTA. 


Returning  from  Pittsfield  to  Hudson,  the  tourist  may 
wish  to  pay  a  visit  to  the  Shaker  Village  at  Mount 
Lebanon,  which  he  can  do  by  taking  the  train  leaving 
for  Chatham  three  times  during  the  day,  and  connecting 
with  the  Boston  and  Albany  Railway,  and  after  an 
hour's  journey  of  twenty-three  miles,  he  will  be  landed 
atthe  Shaker  Village  itself.  Space  will  not  allow  an 
extended  notice  of  this  remarkable  village ;  suffice  it  to 
say  that  cleanliness,  and  all  other  cardinal  virtues, 
reign    paramount.      Order,    temperance,    frugality   and 


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All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


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Shaker  worship,  are  the  things  that  strike  one's  senses 
on  first  arriving.  Every  one  here  is  free.  No  soldiers, 
no  police,  no  judges  live  here,  and  among  members  of  a 
society,  in  which  every  man  stakes  his  all,  appeal  to  the 
courts  of  law  is  a  thing  unknown.  In  the  case  of  a  sect 
where  celibacy  is  the  first  and  principal  code,  it  would 
seem  as  if  such  a  society  would  of  itself  die  a  natural 
death ;  but  yearly  many  fresh  converts  to  the  sect  are 
made,  and  not  only  among  the  old  and  those  tired  of 
this  world's  pomps  and  vanities,  but  from  the  young  and 
healthy  of  both  sexes.  Happiness,  peace,  and  plenty  are 
evident  in  all  the  villages  of  this  most  peculiar  of  all 
religious  societies.  Mr.  Hep  worth  Dixon  has  written  so 
fully  about  them  in  his  interesting  work,  entitled  "  New 
America,"  that  we  should  recommend  the  curious,  or 
those  who  have  visited  any  of  their  villages,  to  obtain  the 
book  and  "read  them  up." 

We  must  go  back  to  our  steamer  at  Hudson,  however, 
after  this  digression,  and  before  leaving  this  interesting 
town  may  mention  that  the  village  opposite,  which  has 
the  high-sounding  name  of  Athens  given  to  it,  (though 
for  what  reason,  we  know  not,)  can  be  reached  by  a  small 
steam  ferry.  There  is  nothing,  however,  to  reward  the 
task  of  crossing,  except,  perhaps,  in  order  to  obtain  a  good 
view  of  Hudson  ;  but  as  this  can  be  done  quite  as  satisfac- 
torily from  the  deck  of  our  steamer,  we  presume  our 
readers  will  not  attempt  the  passage,  but  continue  with 
us  for  the  next  thirty  miles  of  our  trip  to  Albany. 

The  lighthouse  seen  on  the  western  side  of  the  river 
on  Four  Mile  Point,  (that  distance  from  Hudson) 
marks  the  head  of  navigation  for  ships.  About  a  mile 
higher  up,  on  the  same  side,  is  Coxackie  Village,  the 


l!      .^< 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


41 


older  portion  of  which  is  called  Coxackie  street  and  lies 
on  a  large  plain  about  a  mile  back  from  the  river.  New 
Baltimore  and  Coyeman's  are  two  smaller  settlements 
north  of  Coxackie,  with  Schodack  Landing  immediately 
on  the  other  side,  whilst  four  miles  higher  up  is  Castleton. 
Here  the  well-known  sand-bar,  called  the  Oversla'igh, 
is  situated,  a  spot  that  has  proved  fatal  to  niore 
steamboats  and  vessels  than  any  known  place  on  the 
continent  The  country  just  around  here  is  flat,  though 
apparently  well  cultivated.  Soon  after  leaving  this  village 
we  approach  a  place,  evidently  of  some  importance  as 
the  river  has  a  busier  look,  and  the  banks  are  more 
thickly  dotted  with  houses,  and  after  a  few  minutes'  delay, 
we  see  in  the  distance,  the  thickly  built  city  of  Albany, 
the  capital  of  the  State,  whilst  two  finely  constructed 
railway  bridges  span  the  river  immediately  opposite  the 
city,  one  being  used  for  passenger  trains,  the  other  for 
freight  trains. 

Most  of  our  tourists  will  desire  to  visit  the  celebrated 
and  fashionable  Saratoga  Springs,  whose  summer  scenes 
of  gaiety  and  pleasure,  and  the  medicinal  qualities  of  the 
waters  of  whose  numerous  Mineral  Springs,  have  gained 
for  it  a  reputation  almost  unequalled.  We  shall  therefore, 
continue  the  duties  of  cicerone^  and  pass  with  them  to  the 
depot  of  the  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal  Company's 
Railway.  Taking  our  seats  in  one  of  their  elegant 
drawing-room  cars,  we  speedily  find  ourselves  leaving 
Albany  and  passing  by  the  Albany  Rural  Cemetery, 
three  miles  above  the  city, — which  is  well  worth  a 
visit,  as  it  abounds  in  forest  streams,  across  which  are 
thrown  rustic  bridges;  here  and  there  are  cascades 
which  empty  into  a  miniature  lake ;   and  deep  ravines, 


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All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


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through  or  over  which  wind  walks  and  roads,  forming  the 
most  picturesque  scenery  imaginable, — we  arrive  at  Troy, 
six  miles  above  Albany.  It  is  at  the  head  of  tide-water, 
and  obtained  its  present  name  in  1 789 ;  and  the  adjoin- 
ing hills  took  the  names  of  Mount  Ida  and  Mount 
Olympus.  The  Polytechnic  School,  organized  in  1824, 
and  endowed  by  Stephen  Van  Rensselaer,  and  the 
Female  Seminary,  take  high  rank  among  the  educa- 
tional institutions  of  the  country.  Troy  boasts  many  fine 
churches,  public  buildings,  and  private  mansions,  and 
those  who  may  desire  to  stay  over  a  day  in  order  to  view 
the  surrounding  scenery  and  visit  the  many  sights,  should 
locate  themselves  at  the  Troy  House,  Messrs.  Janvrin  & 
Gilles,  proprietors,  corner  of  First  and  River  streets,  where 
excellent  accommodation,  gentlemanly  clerks,  and  kind 
attention  may  always  be  relied  upon.  The  Troy  House 
is  the  leading  and  only  first-class  House  in  the  city. 
Recently  refurnished — electric  bells,  telephone,  telegraph 
office,  and  every  convenience  that  health  and  comfort 
can  suggest.  Table  supplied  with  all  the  delicacies  of  the 
season.  Attentive  and  courteous  employees,  all  striving 
to  please.  Location  central — being  among  the  leading 
mercantile  interests  and  public  buildings  of  the  city,  and 
within  two  minutes'  walk  of  the  landing  of  the  palace 
steamboats  "  Saratoga,"  and  "  City  of  Troy,"  daily  line 
to  New  York,  and  four  blocks  from  Union  R.R.  Depot. 
Troy  has  immense  iron-manufactories  located  in  the  south 
part  of  the  city ;  and  the  fame  of  her  steel-works,  stoves, 
and  rolling-mills  is  too  well  established  to  require  an 
extended  description  here.  The  establishment  of  Mr. 
Erastus  Corning,  where  Bessemer  steel  is  manufac- 
tured, is  the  largest  of  the  kind  in  the  United  States, 
and   turns   out   annually   thousands    of    tons    of   steel 


I 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


43 


rails.  The  original  Monitor,  whose  exploits  with  the 
"  Merrimac  "  may  be  said  to  have  changed  the  character 
of  the  war-navies  of  the  world,  was  in  part  built  here. 
The  Troy  horse-shoe,  nail,  and  railroad -spike  manufactory 
is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world.  Among  the  new 
public  buildings  are  the  Savings  Bank,  City  Hall,  and  the 
new  "Times"  building.  This  last  is  of  four  stories,  with 
an  iron  front  and  Mansard  roof.  St.  Peter's  College, 
built  on  Mount  St.  Vincent,  is  for  the  education  of 
Catholic  priests.  The  Marshall  Infirmary,  Warren  Free 
Institute  for  Indigent  Children,  Troy  Orphan  Asylum, 
Troy  Hospital,  St.  Mary's  Orphan  Asylum,  and  the  mis- 
sion school  connected  with  St.  Paul's  Episcopal  Church, 
are  among  the  charitable  institutions  of  the  city.  The 
streets  are  laid  out  generally  at  right  angles,  are  well 
shaded,  and  kept  clean.  The  cemetery  is  an  exquisite 
spot,  adorned  with  stately  monuments  and  works  of  art : 
among  these  is  a  bridge  of  elegant  design,  by  J.  Wrey 
Mould  of  New  York  City.  The  Griswold  and  Wool 
monument,  by  the  same  architect,  is  to  be  of  white 
marble,  and  will  cost  at  least  a  hundred  thousand  dollars. 
The  United  States  Arsenal  is  across  the  river,  and 
contains  many  cannons  and  relics  of  the  Revolution. 

The  Erie  and  Champlain  Canals  here  connect  with 
the  Hudson  River,  and  railroads  radiate  to  every  part  of 
the  country.  The  Union  Railway  Depot  is  a  magnifi- 
cent structure,  and  was  built  by  the  great  railroads 
centring  here. 

DELAWARE  AND  HUDSON  CANAL  COMPANY'S  RAILWAYS. 

This  company  now  controls  a  system  of  railroads  which 
extend  to  the  many  popular  summer  resorts  of  Northern 


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All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


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New  York  and  beyond.  They  comprise  the  Albany  & 
Susquehanna  Railroad,  extending  from  Binghamton  to 
Albany,  143  miles,  with  the  following  branches:  Nine- 
veh to  Scranton,  73  miles ;  Cobleskill  to  Cherry  Valley, 
through  Sharon  Spr-ngs,  23  miles;  and  Quaker  Street  to 
Schenectady,  15  miles;  making  in  all  254  miles. 

The  Rensselaer  &  SaratogaJRailroad,  extend- 
ing from  Albany  and  Troy  to  Whitehall  and  Rutland, 
10 1  miles ;  and  Eagle  Bridge  to  Castleton,  52  miles ; 
with  a  branch,  Schenectady  to  Ballston,  1 5  miles,  and 
Fort  Edward  to  Glen  Falls,  6  miles  ;  making  in  all  174 
miles. 

The  New  York  &  Canada  Railroad,  extending 
from  Whitehall  to  Rouse's  Point,  1 14  miles ;  with 
branches.  Fort  Ticonderoga  to  Baldwin,  5  miles  ;  Platts- 
burg  to  Ausable,  20  miles  ;  and  West  Chazy  to  Mooers 
Junction,  11  miles;  making  in  all  150  miles.  These 
three  leased  or  owned  lines  make  a  total  mileage  of  578 
miles,  and  form  one  of  the  best  lines  in  the  country,  both 
for  through  and  summer  excursion  business. 

Leaving  the  Union  Depot,  Troy,  it  crosses  the  main 
channel  of  the  Hudson,  on  a  bridge  15 12  feet  long,  to 
Green  Island.  From  thence  it  proceeds  to  Van  Schaick's 
Island,  by  a  bridge  482  feet  long,  and  from  here  across 
to  Waterford.  The  tourist  can  well  afford  to  spend  a  few 
hours  here  and  visit  the  Cohoes  Falls  and  factories.  In 
the  early  colonial  times  Waterford  was  known  as  Half- 
moon,  taking  its  name  from  the  shape  of  the  river-bend 
at  this  point 

Cohoes,  sometimes  called  the  "  City  of  Spindles,"  has 
become  one  of  the  most  important  manufacturing  cities 
of  the  State.     An  immense  water-power  is  here  formed 


ill 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


45 


by  the  Mohawk  River,  which  makes  a  d*^  :ent  of  a 
hundred  feet.  The  Cohoes  Falls,  about  a  half-mile  above 
the  railroad  bridge,  have  a  perpendicular  descent  of  forty 
feet.  Here  are  situated  numerous  knitting  and  cotton 
mills,  axe  and  edge-tool  factories,  which  give  a  commer- 
cial importance  to  the  city,  and  employment  to  thousands 
of  operatives. 

Mechanicville,  thirteen  miles  from  Troy,  is  a  smart 
manufacturing  town.  A  monument  erected  to  the 
memory  of  Col.  Ellsworth,  of  the  famous  Ellsworth 
Zouaves,  will  be  found  in  the  quiet  cemetery  on  the  hill. 

The  new  railroad  route  from  Schenectady  to  the 
Hoosac  Tunnel  here  crosses  the  Hudson  River  upon  a 
magnificent  double-track  iron  bridge.  This  line  is 
intended  to  connect  the  Erie  Railway  and  Delaware 
&  Hudson  Canal  Company's  railroad  with  Boston. 

A  fort  was  on  the  elevated  ground  at  the  north  end  of 
the  village ;  and  a  few  rods  below  this  were  two  long  store- 
houses which  did  good  service  in  Gen.  Gates'  campaign 
of  1777,  which  resulted  in  the  capture  of  Gen.  Burgoyne. 

Round  Lake,  nineteen  miles  from  Troy,  is  a  station 
of  comparatively  modern  origin.  Ten  years  ago  an 
association  of  gentlemen  connected  with  the  Methodist 
Church  purchased  a  large  plot  of  ground  here,  mostly 
timber  land,  upon  which  they  established  a  mammoth 
permanent  camp-meeting  ground. 

The  grounds  are  handsomely  laid  out,  and  contain  a 
hotel  capable  of  accommodating  a  hundred  guests,  and 
some  two  hundred  and  fifty  cottages  owned  or  rented  by 
r^ular  attendants  at  the  meetings.  There  has  been  laid 
out  and  built  at  great  expense,  a  "  Palestine  Park,"  some 
five  hundred  feet  in  length:  this  is  a  copy  in  miniature 


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46 


All-Round  Route  and  Patioramic  Guide, 


of  the  famous  Holy  Land  ;  and  here  are  reproduced 
on  a  correct  scale  the  mountains,  lakes,  cities,  and  ruins 
of  that  land  made  so  dear  to  the  heart  of  every  Christian. 

There  is  also  a  lake  supplied  with  boats,  &c.,  and  a 
mineral  spring  said  to  have  superior  medicinal  qualities. 
Several  meetings  are  held  here  each  year,  and  the  attend- 
ance generally  is  quite  large.  While  it  is  strictly  a 
religious  settlement,  still  all  are  welcome,  and  many  find 
it  a  pleasant  and  profitable  place  for  spending  the  heated 
summer  months. 

Ballston,  twenty-six  miles  from  Troy,  is  the 
county-seat  of  Saratoga  County.  The  Kayaderosseras 
Creek,  which  flows  through  the  village,  furnishes  a  fine 
water  power  for  the  numerous  paper-mills,  emery-wheel 
works,  sash  and  box  factories,  &c.,  situated  along  its 
banks. 

The  village  has  a  population  of  about  three  thousand 
people ;  has  many  fine  buildings,  both  public  and 
private,  and  is  supplied  with  pure  water,  and  good 
schools,  which  render  it  a  desirable  location  for  a 
permanent  home. 

Ballston  Spa  derives  its  celebrity  from  the  mineral 
springs  which  flow  here  in  great  abundance. 

The  artesian  springs  flow  from  a  depth  of  six  hundred 
feet  through  solid  rock.  The  Sans  Souci  Hotel  was  built 
many  years  ago  by  Nicholas  Low,  and  in  its  plan  and 
surroundings  does  much  credit  to  the  taste  and  liberality 
of  the  proprietor.  It  is  i6o  feet  long,  with  two  wings 
extending  back  153  feet,  and  is  calculated  for  the 
accommodation  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  boarders.  The 
Sans  Souci  Spring,  which  is  within  the  grounds  of  the 
hotel,  is  seven  hundred  feet  deep. 


All- Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


47 


SCRANTON  AND  BINGHAMTON  to  SARATOGA, 

VIA  THK  I)KI,AWAHK  A  HlfKHON  CANAI,  COMPANY'h  IIAILWAY. 

[RESUMING  that  the  traveler  has  already  viewed 
the  wonderful  beauty  of  the  Wyoming  Valley, 
tmti  ^«  route  from  Philadelphia  and  the  South,  and 
the  many  attractive  places  along  the  Erie  from  the  West, 
we  will  not  stop  to  go  over  them  here  ;  but  will  take  up 
our  trip  to  Saratoga,  beginning  with  the  Delaware  and 
Hudson  Canal  Company  Susquehanna  Division  from 
Binghamton. 

The  scenery  along  the  route  is  of  the  finest  description. 
Traversing  the  beautiful  Chenango  and  Susquehanna 
Valleys,  it  afifords  conveni .  nt  access  to  the  Catskill  and 
Helderberg  Mountains ;  passing  through  the  fertile 
Schoharie  Valley,  it  makes  a  detour  around  the  foot  of 
the  Helderberg  Mountain  to  Albany,  or  crosses  the 
Mohawk  Valley  from  Quaker  Street  to  Schenectady, 
affording  the  most  convenient  route  to  Saratoga,  Lakes 
George  and  Champlain,  the  Adirondacks,  and  other 
famous  northern  resorts. 

The  City  of  Binghamton,  sometimes  called  the 
"  Parlor  City."  This  city  is  beautifully  laid  out  on  both 
sides  of  the  Chenango  River,  and  on  the  north  side  cf 
the  Susquehanna.  It  was  settled  in  1784,  and  was 
originally  called  **  Chenango  Point."  Its  present  name 
was  derived  from  Hon.  William  Bingham,  who  was  the 
original  owner  of  the  land  forming  the  site  of  the  city. 

The  construction  of  the  Erie  and  other  railroads  has 
made  of  this  a  great  commercial  inland  centre,  and  the 
growth  and  manufacturing  interests  of  the  city  are 
increasing.     The  population  is  about  sixteen  thousand. 


fe^ 


^L^ 


48 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


The  court-house  is  a  handsome  building  in  the  Ionic 
style,  fifty-eight  by  ninety-eight  feet,  and  was  built  in 
1857. 

There  are  many  handsome  public  and  private  buildings 
in  the  city ;  and,  as  special  pains  seem  to  be  taken  by 
the  inhabitants  to  keep  their  places  and  streets  clean,  the 
city  at  all  times  presents  a  fine  appearance. 

The  State  Inebriate  Asylum,  now  converted  into  a  State 
asylum  for  chronic  insane,  is  located  a  little  east  of  the 
city,  on  a  beautiful  and  elevated  site,  eighty-two  feet 
broad  by  three  hundred  and  sixty-f.ve  feet  long.  It  is 
built  of  stone  and  brick,  in  the  Tudor  style  of  architec- 
ture. It  owes  its  origin  to  the  persevering  efforts  of  Dr. 
J.  Edwin  Turner.  The  citizens  donated  the  farm  of  two 
hundred  and  fifty  acres,  on  which  the  building  is  erected. 
Leaving  Binghamton,  and  passing  through  Port  Crane 
and  Osborn  Hollow,  we  come  to 

Tunnel  Station,  fifteen  miles  from  Binghamton. 
This  was  the  scene  of  the  remarkable  strife  between  the 
employees  of  the  Albany  &  Susquehanna  and  Erie 
Railroads,  a  few  years  since,  for  the  possession  of  the 
former  road,  known  as  the  Erie  war,  in  which  several 
thousand  men  were  engaged,  necessitating  a  call  upon 
the  State  militia  to  maintain  peace. 

Nineveh,  twenty-two  miles  from  Binghamton.  Here 
a  connection  is  made  with  the  Pennsylvania  Division  of 
the  Delaware  &  Hudson  Canal  Company's  railroads, 
which,  with  the  Jefferson  Branch  of  the  Erie  Railway, 
forms  a  line  from  Wilkesbarre,  Scranton,  Carbondale, 
and  the  coal-regions  of  Pennsylvania. 

Scranton  has  a  population  of  thirty-five  thousand, 
and  since  its  start  has  developed  rapidly,  and  into  great 


HI 


il^ 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


49 


importance.  It  may  be  said  to  be  in  the  centre  of  the 
coal-mining  region ;  and  near  it,  and  on  the  neighboring 
hills,  will  be  seen  numerous  collieries  teeming  with  life, 
and  giving  employment  to  thousands  of  people. 

The  place  takes  its  name  from  the  family  of  Scran  ton, 
whose  members  were  among  the  first  to  erect  buildings, 
and  push  forward  those  industries  which  now  are  its  chief 
feature. 

The  rolling-mills  and  blast-farnaces  of  Scranton  are 
among  the  largest  in  the  world,  and  annually  turn  out 
thousands  of  tons  of  iron  in  different  shapes  and  for 
different  uses.  These  works  are  well  worth  visiting,  and 
at  night  their  roaring  fires  illuminate  the  whole  region, 
and  make  a  scene  never  to  be  forgotten  by  the  transient 
visitor. 

The  Dickson  Manufacturing  Company  is  located  here, 
and  yearly  turns  out  large  quantities  of  machinery.  The 
locomotives  made  by  these  works  have  a  world-wide 
reputation,  and  are  used  on  a  great  many  railroads. 

A  visit  to  any  of  the  numerous  coal-mines  in  the 
vicinity  is  well  worth  making.  Visitors  are  shown  every 
attention,  and  the  opportunity  of  seeing  coal  mined 
should  not  be  missed. 

The  Delaware,  Lackawanna  &  Western  Railroad,  a 
similar  organization  to  the  Delaware  &  Hudson  Canal 
Company  hcis  important  works  here;  and  the  round- 
house surrounded  by  its  network  of  tracks  is  one  of  the 
interesting  features  of  Scranton.  . 

Leaving  Scranton.  with  its  ever-busy  varying  bustle 
and  life,  we  pass  Green  Ridge,  where  connection  with  the 
Central  Railroad  of  New  Jersey  is  made,  and  the  mining 
villages  of  Dickson  and  Olyphant,  where  the  Gravity  Rail- 

4 


I 


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so 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


road  for  Honesdale  begins,  and  Archibald,  and  come  to 
Carbondale,  the  second  important  city  in  Luzerne  County. 
This  city  has  had  a  rapid  growth.  It  was  incorpo- 
rated in  185 1,  and  now  has  a  population  of  about  six 
thousand.  It  is  strictly  a  mining  town  :  its  interests  are 
coal,  and  its  inhabitants  people  owning  or  mining  the 
article.  The  extensive  car-shops  of  the  Delaware  & 
Hudson  Canal  Company's  Railroad  are  situated  here, 
giving  employment  to  many  men. 

At  this  point  the  Gravity  Railroad  leaves  the  Lacka- 
wanna Valley,  and  by  a  series  of  inclines  passes  over  the 
Moosic  Mountain  to  Honesdale,  sixteen  miles  distant, 
and  the  great  coal-shipping  point,  via  the  Delaware  & 
Hudson  Canal.  The  empty  cars  are  returned  from 
Honesdale  by  still  another  series  of  planes  ;  and  the  long 
coal-trains  thundering  across  the  valley,  up  and  down 
the  mountain-sides,  seemingly  without  propelling  power, 
form  a  scene  weird  and  picturesque. 

The  successful  completion  and  operation  of  this  road  is 
another  of  the  great  engineering  triumphs  of  the  age,  and 
the  work  is  well  worth  a  visit.  ' 

Crystal  Lake  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  is  six  miles 
from  Carbondale,  high  up  among  the  mountains,  and  is 
a  very  pleasant  place  for  spending  the  heated  months. 

Leaving  Carbondale,  and  passing  up  the  narrow  valley, 
we  strike  the  Jefferson  Branch  of  the  Erie  Railway,  which 
is  used  by  the  Delaware  &  Hudson  Canal  Company  as 
far  as  Jefferson  Junction ;  from  there  we  pass  through 
Laneshoro\  Windsor^  and  Centre  Village,  all  small  towns 
whose  interests  are  mostly  in  the  lumber  or  leather  busi- 
ness, and  come  to  Nineveh,  where  connection  with  the 
Albany  &  Susquehanna  Railroad  is  made. 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


51 


Leaving  Nineveh,  we  come  to 

Afton,  twenty-eight  miles  from  Binghamton ;  an 
enterprising,  little  village  on  the  north  side  of  the 
Susquehanna.  Population,  three  hundred.  Stage  con- 
nection is  made  here  with  Vallonia  Springs,  one  mile 
distant,  which  derives  its  name  from  the  mineral  springs 
situated  here. 

Bainbridge,  thirty-four  miles  from  Binghamton. 
Population,  four  hundred.  This  town  was  first  settled 
in  1785,  by  New  England  emigrants.  Stage  connection 
is  made  here  with  Coventry,  Greene,  Bennettsville,  and 
Deposit. 

Sidney,  thirty-nine  miles  from  Binghamton.  Con- 
nection is  made  here,  via  New  York  &  Oswego  Midland 
Railroad,  for  Oxford,  Norwich,  Oneida,  Fulton,  and 
Oswego.  The  Susquehanna  Valley  was  first  settled 
here  in  1772,  by  the  Rev.  William  Johnston. 

Unadilla,  forty- three  miles  from  Binghamton.  Pop- 
ulation, about  twelve  hundred.  Stage  connection  is 
made  at  this  point  with  Walton,  Butternuts,  Delhi,  &c. 

Otego,  fifty-two  miles  from  Binghamton.  This  hand- 
some village  contains  several  manufactories,  &c. ;  is 
situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Osdewa  and  Flax  Island 
Creeks,  and  the  Susquehanna  River.  It  was  first  settled 
in  1800.  Stage  connection  is  made  with  Franklin, 
Gilbertsville,  Walton  and  Delhi. 

Oneonta,  sixty  miles  from  Binghamton.  Population 
about  twenty-five  hundred.  The  repair  shops  of  the 
Albany  &  Susquehanna  Railroad,  employing  about  two 
hundred  men,  are  situated  here.  This  thriving  place 
contains  various  manufactories  of  agricultural  implements, 
foundries,  mills,  &c.,  four  churches,  and  three  hotels. 


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52 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


The  first  settlement  was  made  here  about  the  middle 
of  the  eighteenth  century. 

Colliers,  sixty-six  miles  from  Binghamton.  The 
i  Ibany  &  Susquehanna  Railroad  connects  at  C.  &  S.  V. 
Junction,  one  mile  from  this  attractive  little  place,  with 
the  Cooperstown  &  Susquehanna  Valley  Railroad,  for 

COOPERSTOWN,  eighty-three  miles  from  Binghamton, 
a  charming  village,  the  county-seat  of  Otsego  County. 

COOPERSTOWN  AND  ITS  ENVIRONS. 


HE  natural  attractions   of  Cooperstown   and   the 
^    lake  region  of  which  it  is  the  centre,  are  in  very 


many  respects  so  like  those  of  the  English  lakes, 
that  no  observant  tourist  can  have  failed  to  note  the 
resemblance.  The  general  topography  of  the  country 
is  nearly  the  same,  save  that  the  mountains  about 
Otsego  Lake  are  less  majestic  and  imposing.  The 
carriage  drives  in  all  directions  are,  however,  equally 
numerous,  varied,  and  picturesque.  By  a  sort  of 
triangular  combination  of  these  popular  roadways, 
Cooperstown,  Sharon  Spring,  Cherry  Valley,  and 
Richfield  Springs  have  been  latterly  brought  into 
quite  fraternal  relations ;  so  that,  during  the  height  of 
the  season,  the  finest  equipages  may  be  daily  seen  passing 
to  and  fro  between  these  beautiful  villages,  recalling 
vividly  the  brilliant  pageantry  and  exhilarating  scenes  of 
the  "Trossachs." 

The  drive  to  Sharon  of  about  twenty-two  miles  affords 
one  of  the  most  sightly  and  commanding  views  in  the 
Empire  State,  and  hardly  to  be  surpassed  by  that  from 
the  piazza  of  the  Catskill-Mountain  House. 


pi 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


53 


To  Richfield  Springs  there  are  three  roads, — one  via 
Oaksville  and  Schuyler's  Lake,  sixteen  miles ;  one  via 
Three-Mile  Point  (Thayer's),  Five-Mile  Point  (Tunni- 
cliff),  and  the  Lake  Road,  to  "Island  Cottage,"  (the 
upper  steamboat  landing),  and  thence  across  the  hill  near 
"  Wiantha  Observatory,"  fourteen  miles ;  and  another 
still,  via  Pierstown  and  Rum  Hill,  thirteen  miles.  All 
these  drives  are  exceptionally  romantic  and  attractive, 
revealing  some  new  beauty  at  every  turn.  Between 
Cooperstown  and  Cherry  Valley  lie  three  distinct  high- 
ways, each  about  fourteen  miles  in  length,  and  all 
rendered  attractive  by  th  'r  peculiarly  quiet  loveliness  ;  so 
that,  adding  the  two  fr  <i  tiere  to  Sharon  Springs,  and 
that  via  Clarksville  and  Seward  Hill  View,  there  are 
three  approaches  to  Sharon  Springs,  of  about  twenty-two 
miles  each.  To  the  east  from  Cooperstown  are  several 
roads  leading  through  cultivated  farms,  villages,  and 
quaint  little  hamlets  beyond,  crossing  frequently  quite 
lofty  mountains,  from  whose  crests  far-reaching  views 
may  be  had.  To  the  south,  on  each  side  of  the  Susque- 
hanna River,  and  often  hugging  its  pleasant,  winding 
margins,  are  to  be  found  excellent  roads,  running  as  far 
down  as  Oneonta,  with  convenient  crossings  at  intervals 
of  two  or  three  miles.  In  this  direction,  through  tidy 
villages,  and  surrounded  on  every  hand  with  scenery 
distinguished  for  its  tranquil  beauty,  drives  can  be 
extended  indeiiiiitely,  at  the  leisure  and  pleasure  of  the 
tourist. 

Otsego  Lake  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  nine  miles 
long,  and  from  one  to  three  miles  wide. 

The  water  is  very  clear,  and  was  called  by  Cooper,  in 
his  tales,  "  Glimmer  Glass,"  on  this  account  probably. 


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54 


Ail-Round  Ren  le  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


\v     % 


Boarding  the  steamer  "  Natty  Bumpo,"  and  following 
the  lake  to  its  head,  will  be  seen  Wild -Rose  Point,  Five- 
Mile  Point,  Gravelly  Point,  Mount  Wellington,  Clark's 
Bay,  all  worthy  of  a  visit.  Arriving  at  the  head  of  the 
lake,  the  Concord  stages  for  Richfield  Springs,  seven 
miles  distant,  are  met. 

This  steamboat  and  stage  route  forms  a  very  pleasant 
way  of  reaching  the  noted  Richfield  Springs  ;  and  many 
avail  themselves  of  the  beautiful  ride  by  boat  and  stage 
through  this  delightful  county. 

At  the  landing  good  stabling  accommodations  are  to 
be  had ;  and  visitors  from  Richfield  or  elsewhere  can 
either  be  served  with  a  good  substantial  meal  at  the 
cottage,  or,  if  preferred,  make  the  Liip  to  Cooperstown, 
arranging  en  route  for  more  formal  dinners  at  Thayer's 
or  Tunnicliffs,  and  still  be  able  to  return  in  ample  time 
for  the  afternoon  stages.  The  steamer  makes  four  trips 
daily;  stopping  on  signal  at  all  intermediate  points. 

The  boat  liveries  of  the  village  are  not  surpassed,  either 
in  amplitude,  equipment,  or  economy,  by  those  of  any 
similar  establishments  in  the  State.  During  the  past 
year  over  eighty  pounds  of  salmon-trout  have  been  taken 
in  one  forenoon  from  a  single  boat  with  hook  and  line, 
and  three  hundred  pounds  through  the  ice  in  one  day's 
fishing  within  a  hundred  rods  of  the  village.  Nor  is  this 
to  be  wondered  at  when  we  state  the  fact,  highly  credit- 
able to  the  citizens  of  Cooperstown,  that  they  have 
expended  nearly  two  thousand  dollars  in  stocking 
their  lake  with  the  very  choicest  varieties  of  fish. 

There  are  many  pleasant  walks  and  drives  in  and 
about  Cooperstown,  and  the  tourist  who  makes  it  his 
home  for  the  season  will  find  it  a  "  home  "  indeed. 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


THE  HOTELS. 


55 


The  Hotel  Fenimore  is  a  handsome  building  of  stone 
and  brick,  situated  near  the  centre  of  the  village.  Con- 
nected with  it  is  a  large  cottage,  with  croquet-ground, 
lawn,  and  extensive  frontage ;  the  two  accommodating 
about  three  hundred  guests. 

The  cuisine  is  unsurpassed.  During  the  season  a  fine 
orchestra  is  attached  to  the  house,  which  gives  daily 
concerts,  and  furnishes  music  for  the  frequent  hops. 
The  rooms  are  large,  and  the  house  is  finely  furnished 
throughout. 

Guests  at  the  hotel  receive  the  best  of  attendance,  and 
the  class  of  people  thronging  its  corridors  give  good 
evidence  of  its  popularity. 

The  Cooper  House  stands  upon  an  eminence  eighty 
feet  above  the  lake,  thus  affording  the  guests  a  fine  view 
of  the  entire  extent  of  the  lake.  The  house  is  surround- 
ed by  a  park  of  nearly  ten  acres,  which  is  handsomely 
laid  out  in  croquet,  ball,  and  archery  grounds,  and  is 
plentifully  supplied  with  shade-trees. 

In  connection  with  the  hotel  are  several  very  handsome 
cottages  suitable  for  families. 

The  internal  arrangements  are  very  complete, — hot 
and  cold  water,  &c. 

The  rooms  are  mostly  en  suite,  and  are  well  adapted 
for  families. 

A  full  orchestra  is  engaged  for  the  season ;  a  billiard- 
room  and  four  bowling-alleys  are  attached  to  the  house 
Good  stabling-accommodation,  and  carriage  and  saddle 
horses,  are  furnished  at  all  times. 

The  house  is  under  the  proprietorship  of  Mr.  S.  E. 


I 


8 


56 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


:i*.:,   , 


\  ,  ■  ,1., 

,    H     i' 


Crittenden,  whose  reputation  as  a  hotel-manager  is  well 
known. 

The  house  accommodates  five  hundred  guests;  and 
each  year  finds  it  well  filled,  which  is  a  good  criticism  on 
the  house  and  its  management. 

There  are  other  hotels  and  boarding-houses  in  the 
village,  which  are  well  filled  every  year.  The  two  hotels 
above  mentioned,  however,  are  the  most  popular  with 
the  travelling  and  tourist  public. 

HOW  TO  REACH  COOPERSTOWN. 

From  New  York  via  Albany  boats  or  Hudson  River 
Railroad  to  Albany  ;  thence  by  the  Albany  &  Susque- 
hanna and  Cooperstown  &  Susquehanna  Valley  Rail- 
roads, to  Cooperstown. 

Travelers  leaving  New  York  by  the  night  boats  will 
reach  Albany  in  ample  time  for  the  morning  express, 
arriving  in  Cooperstown  at  noon. 

From  Buffalo  and  the  West  via  New  York,  Lake  Erie, 
and  Western  Railroad,  to  Binghamton,  thence  by  the 
Albany  &  Susquehanna  and  Cooperstown  &  Susque- 
hanna Valley  Railroads,  to  Cooperstown. 

From  Washington  and  ihe  South  via  New  York, 
Albany,  &c.,  or  via  Northern  Central  to  Elmira,  thence 
by  New  York,  Lake  Erie  &  Western  Railroad,  to 
Binghamton,  &c.,  as  above. 

From  Philadelphia  via  New  York  and  Albany,  or  by 
the  Delaware,  Lackawanna,  &  Western  Railroad,  to 
Binghamton,  &c 

From  Saratoga  Springs  and  the  North,  via  Albany  or 
Schenectady  and  Quaker  street,  on  the  Albany  & 
Susquehanna  Railroad. 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


57 


From  Boston,  via  the  Boston  &  Albany  Railroad  to 
Albany,  or  the  Hoosac-Tunnel  route  to  Troy,  thence  via 
the  Delaware  &  Hudson  Canal  Company's  Railroads, 
and  Cooperstown  &  Susquehanna  Valley  Railroad,  to 
Cooperstown. 

Worcester,  eighty  miles  from  Binghamton.  This  grow- 
ing village  bears  evidence  of  healthy  prosperity  in  its 
handsome  business  places  and  residences,  its  clean  and 
well-shaded  streets,  and  its  general  indications  of  thrift 
and  good  taste.  It  contains  two  handsome  churches, 
several  mills,  and  other  industries.  Passing  East  Worces- 
ter, eighty-five  miles  from  Binghamton,  we  come  to 

RiCHMONDViLLE,  ninety-three  miles  from  Binghamton. 
Stages  connect  here  with  Summit,  Stamford,  Jefferson, 
and  Hobart. 

COBLESKILL,  ninety-seven  miles  from  Binghamton. 
Population,  twelve  hundred.  The  largest  and  most 
important  village  on  this  section  of  the  road:  it  lies 
nine  hundred  feet  above  tide-water,  in  the  Scoharie 
Valley,  so  rich  in  historic  and  romantic  tradition. 

It  contains  four  hotels,  a  printing-office,  a  bank,  three 
churches,  a  fine  school-building,  threshing-machine  man- 
ufactory, various  mills,  marble-works,  &c.  A  branch  of 
the  Albany  &  Susquehanna  Railroad  connects  here  with 
Hyndsville,  Seward,  Sharon  Springs,  and  Cherry  Valley, 

Sharon  Springs,  one  hundred  and  eleven  miles  from 
Binghamton,  is  situated  in  Schoharie  County,  N.Y.,  in  a 
valley  about  i,ioo  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The 
streets  are  provided  with  good  sidewalks,  and  are  shaded 
with  maple-trees.  The  air  is  pure  and  bracing,  and  free 
from  malarial  impurities :  even  in  the  warmest  of  the 
summer  weather,  the  nights  are  cool  and  pleasant  for 


58 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


sleeping.  The  springs  are  easy  of  access,  within  the  vil- 
lage limits,  on  the  edge  of  a  natural  forest,  abounding  in 
pleasant  walks.  The  surrounding  country  is  hilly,  and 
affords  interesting  drives  and  pleasant  scenery.  Sharon 
Springs  is  well  supplied  with  hotels  and  boarding-houses, 
many  of  which  have  a  well-established  reputation  for 
excellence  and  comfort :  among  these,  visitors  can  be 
sure  of  finding  comfortable  accommodation  at  rates 
conformable  to  every  grade  of  expenditure. 

This  watering-place  has  been  fanious  for  many  years 
for  its  mineral  springs,  of  which  the  most  noted  is  the 
White  Sulphur  Spring,  which  is  not  excelled  by  any 
sulphur  spring  in  this  country.  The  water  is  used  both 
internally  and  externally :  it  is  clear  and  bright  as  it  issues 
from  the  spring,  and  of  an  agreeable  temperature  for 
drinking  (48°  F).  In  the  bath-houses  it  is  heated  to  any 
degree  required  for  bathing.  The  water  of  this  spring  is 
particularly  efficacious  in  rheumatic  complaints,  gout, 
neuralgia,  paralysis,  cutaneous  diseases,  urinary  difficul- 
ties, indigestion,  and  biliary  derangements.  The  benefit 
derived  in  such  cases  has  been  remarkable:  when  the 
waters  are  judiciously  and  fairly  tried,  relief  is  almost  sure 
to  follow,  and  many  cases  of  permanent  cure  are  effected. 
Malarial  difficulties  may  also  be  eliminated  from  the 
system  by  the  use  of  this  water  in  bathing  and  drinking. 

The  old  bathing-buildings  having  been  entirely 
destroyed  by  fire  in  September,  1875,  the  proprietors, 
Messrs.  John  H.  Gardner  and  Son,  have  since  erected 
new  sulphur  bath-houses  on  the  same  site. 

The  new  establishment  consists  of  an  ornamental  build- 
ing in  front,  with  two  entrances,  leading  respectively  into 
the  ladies'  and  gentlemen's  waiting-rooms  ;   from  these. 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


59 


doors  open  into  the  bath-houses  proper,  two  long  build- 
ings, entirely  distinct  from  each  other.  The  ladies'  house 
contains  forty,  and  the  gentlemen's  fifty-two,  bath-rooms. 

The  bath-tubs  (from  the  factory  of  the  Penrhyn  Slate 
Company)  are  all  of  slate,  selected  for  this  use,  and 
particularly  desirable  on  account  of  its  non-absorbent 
qualities. 

The  interior  of  the  buildings  is  entirely  finished  in  hard 
woods,  oiled.  The  exterior  is  of  brick,  and  the  roofs  are 
covered  with  slate. 

The  proprietors  have  spared  neither  effort  nor  expense 
to  make  the  new  houses  comfortable  and  inviting  in 
every  respect.  The  White  Sulphur  Spring  discharges 
about  four  barrels  of  water  per  minute,  thus  giving  an 
immense  supply,  and  obviating  that  hoarding  of  the 
water  in  reservoirs  or  other  receptacles,  which  is  necessary, 
in  many  other  sulphur-bathing  establishments  where  the 
supply  is  small.  Here  the  water  flows  from  the  spring 
into  a  small  tank,  about  the  size  of  a  hogshead,  from 
which  a  steam-pump  raises  it  into  larger  tanks  (at  a 
sufficient  elevation  to  serve  the  tubs),  where  it  is  heated, 
and  distributed  to  the  bath-tubs.  As  the  pump  is  kept 
constantly  at  work,  during  bathing-hours,  the  water  flows 
almost  directly  from  the  spring  into  the  bath-tubs,  only 
being  retained  long  enough  to  acquire  the  necessary  heat 
in  the  hot  tank.  This  is  of  great  advantage  to  the 
patrons  of  the  establishment,  as  it  is  a  well-known  fact 
that  the  water  loses  in  strength  and  efficacy  by  being 
kept  in  any  way  except  in  bottles. 

The  new  baths  were  opened  to  the  public  in  1876,  and 
were  universally  commended,  and  pronounced  to  be  the 
best  sulphur  bath-houses  in  the  country. 


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All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


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Sharon  Springs  has  also  valuable  magnesia  springs, 
whose  waters  are  highly  esteemed  for  drinking  purposes ; 
and,  when  thus  taken,  these  waters  act  beneficially  with 
the  sulphur  water.  "A  blue-stone  spring,"  near  the 
White  Sulphur  Spring  (but  entirely  free  from  sulphur), 
has,  during  the  past  fifteen  years,  proved  so  efficacious  in 
affections  of  the  eyes,  that  it  has  been  properly  named 
the  "  Eye- Water  Spring."  A  chalybeate  spring  is  also 
found  within  the  village  limits. 

There  are  resident  physicians  in  the  place  who  have 
had  many  years  of  experience  in  the  use  of  the  waters. 

The  Pavilion  is  the  largest  hotel.  It  accommodates 
about  five  hundred  guests,  and  is  pleasantly  situated  on 
the  summit  of  a  slight  eminence,  commanding  a  charm- 
ing view  of  about  forty  miles  in  extent  towards  the  north, 
embracing  the  Mohawk  Valley  and  the  Adirondack  Moun- 
tains ;  and,  in  very  clear  weather,  the  Green  Mountains  of 
Vermont  may  be  seen.  Several  fine  cottages  are  attached 
to  the  hotel,  which  may  be  rented  by  families :  there  is 
also  a  bath-house,  for  the  convenience  of  patrons.  The 
best  of  attendance  is  given  all  comers,  and  its  reputation 
as  the  first  house  in  the  village  is  at  all  times  fully 
sustained. 

Union  Hall  is  another  large  hotel,  accommodating 
about  two  hundred  guests. 

There  are  several  other  good  houses  in  the  village, 
among  which  may  be  mentioned  the  Howland,  Mansion, 
United  States,  Empire,  and  Sharon  Houses. 

Sharon  Springs  may  be  reached  by  the  Delaware  and 
Hudson  Canal  Company,  Susquehanna  Division,  from 
Albany  or  Binghamton.  The  depot  of  the  Susquehanna 
Railroad  in  Albany  is  now  located  at  the  foot  of  Maiden 


All-Roiind  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


6i 


Lane,  in  that  city,  immediately  adjacent  to  the  depot  of 
the  New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River  Railroad,  and 
Boston  &  Albany  Railroad.  Two  express  trains  run 
daily  to  Sharon  Springs,  on  the  Susquehanna  Railroad. 
Through  tickets  and  baggage-checks,  via  Susquehanna 
Railroad,  can  be  obtained  in  New  York,  Boston,  and 
Philadelphia.  The  trains  make  close  connections  with 
the  New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River  Railroad,  Boston 
&  Albany,  Hoosac  Tunnel  route.  People's  Line  night 
boats,  and  Day  Line  steamers.  During  the  season  express 
trains  have  drawing-room  cars  attached  between  Albany, 
Sharon  Springs,  and  Cherry  Valley,  through,  without 
change.  There  is  also  a  through  train  that  leaves  Phila- 
delphia in  the  morning,  and  arrives  at  Sharon  Springs  in 
the  evening  of  the  same  day. 

Cherry  Valley,  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  from 
Binghamton.  Population,  one  thousand.  One  of  the 
prettiest  little  villages  in  the  State.  It  was  here  that  one 
of  the  most  horrible  massacres  recorded  in  history  took 
place.  In  1778  the  Tories  and  Indians  butchered  or  took 
captive  the  entire  population. 

Stages  connect  with  Fort  Plain,  Cooperstown  and 
Milford. 

Howe's  Cave,  i  14  miles  from  Binghamton,  and  39 
miles  from  Albany.  This  cave  is  one  of  the  most  remark- 
able curiosities  in  the  United  States ;  for  beauty,  variety, 
and  extent,  it  is  only  equalled  by  the  Mammoth  Cave  of 
Kentucky,  with  the  advantage  of  being  more  convenient 
of  access,  as  the  entrance  to  the  cave  is  immediately  at 
the  railroad  station.  This  great  natural  wonder,  extend- 
ing for  miles  beneath  the  surface  of  the  earth,  is  lighted 
by  gas. 


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62 


All-Ronnd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


) , 


Among  the  prominent  points  of  interest  in  the  cave  are 
the  Reception  Room,  Washington  Hall,  Bridal  Chamber, 
Chapel,  Harlequin  Tunnel,  Cataract  Hall,  Haunted  Castle, 
Music  Hall,  and  Crystal  Lake,  upon  which  are  boats  for 
the  transfer  of  visitor^  across  this  subterranean  water. 
The  foot  of  the  lake  is  brilliantly  illuminated  with  gas-jets, 
giving  a  beautiful  view  of  the  Crystal  Waterfall  and  Cat- 
aract. Beyond  the  borders  of  the  lake  are  the  Devil's 
Gateway,  Museum,  Uncle  Tom's  Cabin,  Giant's  Study, 
Pirate's  Cave,  Rocky  Mountains,  The  Winding  Way,  and 
Grand  Rotunda. 

Stalagmites  and  stalactites  of  varied  and  wondrous 
forms  are  seen  on  every  side,  assuming  such  shapes  as 
only  Nature,  the  greatest  sculptor,  could  suggest :  among 
these  may  be  mentioned  Lady  Washington's  Hood, 
Washington's  Epaulet,  The  Harp,  and  countless  others. 

The  average  temperature  of  the  cave  is  about  sixty 
degrees  during  the  entire  year,  seeming  cool  in  summer 
and  warm  in  winter.  During  the  extremes  of  hot  and 
cold  weather,  it  is  a  luxury  to  visit  it.  The  air  is  pure 
and  invigorating,  and  high  medical  authority  has  pro- 
nounced it  decidedly  beneficial  to  those  afflicted  with 
pulmonary  or  lung  difficulties ;  and  in  several  cases 
immediate  relief  has  been  experienced  by  those  labor- 
ing under  temporary  colds,  and  depression  of  the  lungs. 
No  case  is  known  where  any  person  has  taken  cold  while 
in  the  cave. 

The  Cave  House,  an  elegant  stone  structure  a  fe^v 
rods  up  the  mountain  from  the  depot,  is  situated  immedi- 
ately at  the  entrance  to  the  cave.  It  is  provided  with  a 
well-shaded,  broad,  cool  piazza  overlooking  the  fertile 
valley  in  front  and  commanding  a  most  beautiful  and 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


63 


picturesque  view  with  Guernsey's  peak  as  its  background. 
The  house  is  elegantly  furnished,  has  bath-rooms  on  each 
floor,  and  is  heated  throughout  with  steam.  Circulars 
giving  full  information  in  relation  to  the  cave,  Cave  House, 
and  surroundings,  furnished  on  application  to  the  pro- 
prietor. 

Guests  may  be  assured  of  the  most  excellent  accom- 
modation at  reasonable  prices.  Cave  costumes  for  both 
lac^'es  and  gentlemen,  and  careful,  intelligent  guides,  are 
fui  nished  visitors  to  the  cave.  The  principal  industry  at 
Howe's  Cave  is  the  manufacturing  of  "  Ramsey's  Hydraulic 
Cement "  from  native  material.  This  cement  has  already 
gained  a  celebrity  almost  equal  to  the  celebrated  "  English 
Portland." 

Central  Bridge,  106  miles  from  Binghamton.  Five 
miles  south  on  the  Schoharie  &  Middleburgh  Railroad, 
lies  Schoharie  Court  House,  a  place  of  considerable 
importance  as  a  summer  resort.  An  old  stone  church 
which  was  used  as  a  fort  in  Revolutionary  times  may  be 
seen  here. 

The  town  was  first  settled  in  17 11  by  Palatinate 
Germans. 

Esperance,  III  miles  from  Binghamton.  Population, 
four  hundred  ;  settled  in  171 1. 

Quaker  Street,  i  16  miles  from  Binghamton.  This  is 
the  junction  of  the  Schenectady  Branch  of  the  Delaware 
and  Hudson  Canal  Company's  Railroad,  which  forms  a 
short  cut  to  Saratoga  and  the  North.  Cars  run  through 
from  the  main  line  to  Saratoga  without  change.  From 
here  the  main  line  passes  through  the  beautiful  suburban 
towns  of  Duanesburgh,  Knowersville,  Guilderland,  New 
Scotland,  Slingerlands,  and  Adamsville  to  Albany,  where 


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64 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


•i„\' 


connections  are  made  for  the  North  and  East,  also  with 
the  River  steamers. 

Leaving  Quaker  Street  by  the  branch,  we  come  to 
Schenectady,  131  miles  from  Binghamton.  This  is 
one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  the  State.  It  is  situated  on 
the  Mohawk,  a  broad  and  beautiful  river  which  forms  its 
northern  boundary.  It  contains  twelve  churches,  and  a 
population  of  thirteen  thousand.  A  trading-post  was 
established  by  the  Dutch,  in  1620.  In  the  winter  of  1690 
the  place  was  visited  by  a  party  of  French  and  Indians, 
under  the  command  of  Lieut.  Moyne  de  St.  Helene,  who 
burned  the  settlement,  which  consisted  of  eighty  well- 
built  houses  and  a  fort,  and  killed  and  captured  the 
inhabitants.  The  council-fires  of  the  Iroquois  were  at 
Johnstown  Hall,  about  twenty-five  miles  west  of  here. 
Schenectady  is  distinguished  as  the  seat  of  Union  College, 
which  is  built  on  high  ground  that  commands  a  view  of 
the  Mohawk  Valley  for  many  miles.  The  college  consists 
of  several  brick  edifices,  including  a  fine  chapel  in  process 
of  construction.  Its  president  is  Rev.  Eliphalet  Nott 
Potter,  D.D.,  who  brings  zeal,  energy,  and  commanding 
talents  to  the  post.  In  numbers  and  respectability.  Union 
College  has  always  ranked  among  the  most  favored  edu- 
cational institutions  in  America.  From  Schenectady  to 
Saratoga,  twenty-two  miles,  the  railroad,  one  of  the  oldest 
in  the  United  States,  pursuing  the  valley  of  the  Eelplace 
Creek,  passes  along  the  banks  of  Ballston  Lake,  called  by 
the  Mohawks  Wa-can-te-pa-Jiahy  and  enters  Ballston  Spa 
on  a  curvature  of  considerable  extent.  From  thence  it 
continues  across  the  Kayaderosseras  Creek  in  nearly  a 
straight  line  to  Saratoga  Springs.  .,,    .;    ,.,f ;,  ;    ,   . ;  ,  ,,j 


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]\  \v-*rr:"'!i  c --•-■■'''■;'";!:''.':,  V.  '    'niwYoek,  August  ilt 

The  Sample  of  OonvrcM  Sprlnff  ^mtutt  taken  by  me  from  the  Spring,  oo| 
United  States  gallon  of  231  oubio  inches :—       ... 


r^ 


Chloride  of  Sodium • ••••..••.••• ;•« 4(A'444  grft| 

Chloride  of  Potassium • •'•••• ••,. 8^9 

Bicarbonate  of  Magnesia • •••••  121*767 

BioaroonateofLime 143*399 

Bicarbonate  of  Idthia 4761 

Bicarbonate  of  Boda :.••>.    10*775 

Bicarbonate  of  Baryta r ....;......     0*928     '1 

Bicarbonate  of  Iron 0'340     "■ 

Bicarbonate  of  Strontia a  trace. 

Bromide  of  Sodium.. 8*559 

lodideiof Sodium- •.•... ; •v*' 0*138    ,, 

Sulphate  of  Potassa  ....• .     0^889.    *^ 

Phosphate  of  Soda • 0*016 

SUioa 0*840 

Fluoride  of  Calcium. . ) 

Biborflte  of  Soda > eachati 

Alumina j  

Total 700*895  gri 

Carbonio  Acid  Gto « 892*289  c 


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Gektlkhen,— In  submitting  the  above  analysis.  I  take  pleasure  in  saying  that  1 
the  same  with  the  analysis  made  by  Dr.  John  fi.  Steel,  in  18^.  proves  that  the  i 
still  retains  its  original  strength  and  all  the  virtues  whion  established  its  well-meri| 

Its  superior  exeellenoe  is  due  to  the  fact  that  it  contains,  in  the  most  desirali 
those  substanees  which  produce  its  agreeable  flavor  and  satisfactoiy  medicinal  \ 
holding  them  in  excess  nor  lacking  any  constituent  to  be  desired  in  this  class  of  watj 

As  a  Cathartic  water  it$  aknott  entire  freedom  from  iron  should  recommend  it  al 
many  of  which  contain  so  much  of  this  ingredient  as  to  seriously  impair  their  usefif 


/'.■^  r  -kJ*.'-  ' 


,  y  Kespectftilly,  yonr  obedient  servant, 

//  >  0.  F.  GHANDLI 

Prqfestor  qf  Analj/tiatl  and 

To  the  CoNOBiss  Jjm  Bimu  Sranro  Co. .  Saratoga  Springs,  N.T.      "  '>>■>, 


-ft  "^'5 


(1)  Congreiss  Water  i»  Superior  to  all,  and  proii< 
Ptaysieiauis   and    Connoisseurs    tbe  Purest 
Medicinal  Mineral  Water  known.  t?^^^  -.. 


W--*.: 


^>-.. 


(2)  This  femous  Water  is  a  well-known  specific  for  Constipation, 
and  all  disorders  of  the  Stoniachf  Liver  and  Kidneys, 


y       Avoid  ^\\  harshf  irritating  WaterSf  native j^^^ 

pair  the  digestive  organs  and  kidneys,  thereby  inducing  irreparable  re 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


65 


SARATOGA,  AND  ALL  ABOUT  ITS   HOTELS, 

SPRINGS,  &c. 


HIS  celebrated  watering-place  is  a  grand  focus  to 
^^     which  the  fashionable  world  of  the  United  States, 


and  indeed  of  Europe,  is  annually  drawn ;  it  is 
thirty-two  miles  from  Troy,  and  has  a  population  of 
about  ten  thousand.  As  we  pass  from  the  train  we  find 
ourselves  surrounded  by  crowds  of  pleasure-seekers  who 
flock  to  meet  the  new  arrivals.  Here  are  intellectual 
men,  stylish  men,  the  beaux  of  society,  and  men  of  the 
world  ;  ladies  of  social  rank,  the  managing  mother,  the 
marriageable  daughter,  the  fluttering  bee  of  fashion,  and 
the  gentler  bird  of  beauty,  are  found  amidst  the  throng, 
for  Saratoga  is  cosmopolitan.  The  ladies  have  here 
ample  opportunity  for  the  display  of  their  peculiar 
charms  and  graces.  The  sporting  gentleman  finds  oppor- 
tunity for  gratifying  his  peculiar  tastes,  the  philosopher 
may  study  human  nature  in  all  its  phases,  and  the  invalid 
may  oft-times  find  that  most  precious  of  all  gems,  perfect 
liealth.  In  fact,  to  all  classes,  Saratoga  offers  some  pleasure 
suited  to  their  peculiar  desires.  But  laying  aside  our 
moralizing  we  shall  proceed  to  make  our  choice  from  the 
many  fine  hotels  of  which  Saratoga  boasts. 

The  most  fastidious  taste  could  not  but  be  gratified  in 
this  respect,  and  among  the  elegant  hotels  situated  in  the 
place  it  would  be  difficult  to  discriminate.  We  shall, 
therefore,  mention  the  principal  hotels,  some  of  which  are 
not  excelled  in  any  city  in  the  world. 

Congress  Hall,  situated  on  Broadway,  extends  from 
Spring  to  Congress  street.  It  has  a  frontage  of  416  feet 
on  Broadway,  and  its  two  mammoth  wings,  extending 

5 


^.,"' 


.,  '■  .'■  y  -'ill 


'Ml 


.'•  . 


;*  > 


ZXftVOSRTAXR'T  XStTOmMAVlOVt 


CONCERNING  THE  WORLD  CELEBRATED 


C<>ngre»»t||^nt|ire  I  ^0ln!ttlfian 


>.\'^ft*-:»i"-'..*'f^*--*>^*''V.-A-y*;'  ^  l^it  ■  ■\iM'^%  "•*?»-■  •♦^ 


MINERAL  SPRING  WATERS 


•OK' 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS,  N,  Y. 


WHAT  THEY  ARE,  WHERE  THEY  ARE,  AND  ALL  ABOUT  THEM. 


ADDRESS : 


..I 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS,  N.Y. 


•OF- 


CONaRESS  SPRING  WATER. 


BOTTLE    Q      MARK. 


XTone  Ge&.'uiae  en  Draiigbit^ 


..*-      •        M-. 


••"• 

M, 


I   •,  f     Y    '  •       't   - 


CONGRESS  SPRINC. 


Its  Analysis  by  PROF.  C-  F-  OHANdLeb: 


in 


■ia& 


'■vv 


.•^-. 
>«.. 


D, 


I 


LlBOBATO&T  or  THS  SCHOQ)  Or  MlEinCBi 
'.CO&imBU  GoLLSGti 

'  N«w  YoM,  August  llth,  1871. 
The  dimplf  tttCom^wsm  Spring  Water*  Uken  by  me  frojn  the  Spring,  aontaioa. in  one 
IlaitedtStatebgallonofSSlcuUiuohea:— ,.,.«!-   --  ,    .•;,  V-  >"  ir.i.»» 


tt 
I. 
It 

41 
M 


•1^* 


t     iC 


Chloride  of  Sodioua • ......' 400*444  grjini* 

Chloride  of  Potassium 8-049     " 

Bioarbonate  of  Magnesia '. ^^'^     ., 

Bioaibonate  of  lime 143'399 

Bicarbonate  of  Lithia 4761     J 

Bitarbonate  of  Roda, •.*•..•    10"7re 

Bioarbon j.t&  of  Baryta. ; : 0|^ 

Bicarbonate o i  Iron ••• •••.• ,««..•■ 0*340 

BicarboDute  oi  Btrontia a  trace. 

Bromide   fSodium • ^!f^ 

loi.tde  of  cuaium .< ;•• .•  ~.  -v  ".'.•."■..     O'loS 

Snlarxateof  Potasaa  *....- .     0"S89 

Phosphate  of  Soda. 0-0l6     ,, 

BUioa. 0-840     "  *  .t 

Fluoride  of  Calcium..)  ,. 

Biborate  of  Soda > eachatraoe. 

Alumina )        ■    •     ■•  '    yj  ■:.  '•  .  

m,  ■     -  ■ 

Total 700*895  grains. 

Carbonic  Aoid  Oas 892*289  cubic  inehes. 


wt 


^', 


Mi' 


-'Si  'iii*;  • 


M 


Gemtlxmxk,— In  sabmittinff  the  above  analysis,  I  take  pleasure  in  saying  that  a  comparison  of 
the  same  with  the  analysis  made  by  Dr.  John  fl.  Steel,  in  1^.  proves  that  the  Congress  Water 
still  retains)  its  original  strength  and  all  the  virtues  whion  established  its  well-merited  reputation. 

Its  superior  exeellenoe  is  due  to  the  fact  that  it  contains,  in  the  most  desirable  proportions, 
those  suDstanees  which  produce  its  agreeable  flavor  and  satisfactory  medicinal  efieots— neither 
holding  them  in  excess  nor  lacking  any  constituent  to  be  desired  in  this  class  of  waters- 
Asa  Cathartic  water  ttoa{mo«fen(tiw^^ee(2om/rom  iron  should  recommend  it  above  all  others, 
many  of  which  eontaia  so  muoh  of  this  ingredient  as  to  seriously  impair  their  usefulness. 

..  }.  BespeotfUly,  your  obedient  servant,  ->  f 

.  /  /,  0.  P.  CHANDLER.  Ph.  D., 

IVq/esfor  of  Analytical  and  Aifplied  ChtmUtry. 

To  the  CoNonss  Aim  Empiu  Sranra  Co. ,  Saratoga  Springs,  N.T. 


* 

s:'- 


..  i 


»««  '  .  -«v.fw  t-  -u  mr-tW  ^tmrm  ^  *u  *,- 


:ic-... 


"  '  '■■^-  --^in^i^^ 


U 


a/ 


6f' 


>»•— .«. _, 


■^i 


^.' 


>*•'  .."-^ 


>..-  r--  -^Sf     ^:: 


r  '^ 

i '  -I, 


4 


^'if- 


-3.^ 


':^ 


(1)  Congress  Water  is  Superior  to  all,  and  pronounced  by 

Physicians   and    Connoisseurs    tbe  Purest  and  most 
Medicinal  Mineral  Water  known. 

(2)  This  famous  Water  is  a  well-known  specific  for  Cktnstipation,  Indigestion ^ 

and  all  disorders  of  the  Stomach f  Liver  and  Kidneys,  ^.^ ;    ., 

Avoid  eX\  harshf  irritating  Water Sf  native  &ri^  foreign;  they  im- 
pair the  digestive  organs  and  kidneys,  thereby  inducing  irreparable  results. 


■■^i-"-«;**^  -•■■•*-»  !*%■ . 


66 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


ill 
.  p 

■  m  . 


It"''        '■:■?■     ■ 


■-.'  fill 


M, 


300  feet  back,  combine  to  make  it  a  most  perfect 
specimen  of  architecture  ;  the  foundations,  which  rest  on 
solid  rock,  were  laid  October,  1867,  It  is  entirely  of 
brick,  and  has  7  fire-proof  brick  walls  extending  through 
the  whole  structure  to  the  roof.  It  is  5  stories  high,  sur- 
mounted by  a  French  roof  with  ob.  jrvatories  at  each  end 
and  in  the  centre ;  the  wings  are  7  stories  high ;  the 
rooms  are  spacious  ;  the  halls  10  feet  wide,  and  400  feet 
long  on  each  floor ;  and  broad,  commodious  stairways, 
with  an  Otis  elevator  of  the  finest  description  render 
every  portion  readily  accessible.  A  front  piazza,  20  feet 
wide,  and  240  feet  in  length,  extends  across  the  building, 
with  numerous  others  within  the  grounds,  and  a  pro- 
menade on  the  top  of  the  hotel  affording  a  charming 
view,  contributes  to  render  the  house  attractive.  The 
two  wings  extend  back  to  Spring  street,  and  are  each 
two  hundred  and  thirty  feet  long  by  forty-six  feet  in 
width,  giving  an  abundance  of  private  parlors  and  lodg- 
ing-rooms. One  hundred  rooms  with  baths  attached  to 
each  have  been  added  this  season  and  one  thousand 
guests  can  be  comfortably  lodged  and  fed  under  its 
spacious  roof.  Across  Spring  street,  and  connected 
with  the  hotel  by  a  suspension  bridge,  is  an  elegant 
ball  room.  It  is  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  long 
by  fifty  wide.  The  ceilings  are  frescoed  in  artistic 
style,  and  it  is  brilliantly  lighted  by  expensive  chan- 
deliers. The  dining  halls,  parlors,  etc.,  are  superb 
and  ample,  and  every  thing  about  the  house  is  on  a  scale 
of  unequalled  magnificence  and  grandeur,  while  the  pro- 
prietors, Messrs.  Clements  &  Cox,  have  endeavored 
to  provide  every  thing  that  can  aff"ord  comfort  and 
pleasure.     Our  cut  of  the  hotel  serves  to  convey  a  general 


!*1  '    i"i' 


All-Raund  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


67 


idea  of  its  outward  appearance,  but  fails  to  depict  all  its 
elegant  outline.    The  weekly  balls  given  are  of  the  most 


brilliant  nature,  and  the  music  is  furnished  by  unrivalled 
orchestras,  ,  • 


<',. 


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f 


Ip: 


'1 '' 


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Mo 


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Si, 


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Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


','  \ 


i.,m 


mm 


I  -m 


■I'U 


The  United  States  Hotel  is  a  superb  establishment, 
surpassing  injsize  any  hotel  in  the  world,  and  equalling 


in  magnificence  the  finest  hotels  of  the  most  famous 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


69 


summer  resorts  of  the  old  and  new  world.  Its  construc- 
tion occupied  two  years.  It  contains  nine  hundred  and 
seventeen  apartments  finished  and  furnished  in  the  latest 
style,  with  gas,  running  water,  and  every  possible  con- 
venience. In  addition  there  are  sixty-five  suites  of 
rooms,  with  bath-rooms  attached.  The  grand  diiJng 
room  is  very  handsome  and  striking,  being  in  dimensions 
two  hundred  and  twelve  feet  by  fifty-two  feet  in  width, 
and  twenty  and  a  half  feet  in  height.  The  drawing 
room  also  is  an  elegant  apartment,  handsomely  fur- 
nished and  exquisitely  decorated,  and  is  eighty-five 
by  sixty  feet.  The  Ball-room,  however,  outdoes  both 
of  these  magnificent  apartments  in  splendor,  rivalling 
the  most  beautiful  salons  of  Europe  in  style  and  orna- 
mentation ;  this  room  has  dimensions  of  one  hundred 
and  twelve  feet  in  length,  fifty-three  feet  in  width, 
and  twenty-six  in  height,  and  has  been  decorated 
by  the  most  skillful  artists  of  the  country  with  a 
taste  and  skill  unexcelled  anywhere.  The  halls  and  cor- 
ridors are  broad  and  spacious,  and  when  crowded  with 
the  throng  of  promenaders  which  they  invite,  present  a 
most  brilliant  appearance.  In  this  respect  the  piazzas 
also  offer  great  attractions  to  guests,  from  their  unequal- 
led extent,  and  the  variety  of  scene  which  they  afford. 
On  the  exterior  of  the  buildings,  facing  ^roadway  and 
Division  street,  these  extend  for  a  length  of  four  hundred 
and  thirty-two  feet,  throughout  three  stories,  and  furnish 
a  singular  vantage  ground  for  view,  as  well  as  extraordi- 
nary facilities  for  promenading.  Corresponding  with 
them  is  a  length  of  piazza  on  the  interior  side  extending 
for  twenty-three  hundred  feet,  which  overlooks  a  court- 
yard of  three  acres,  tastefully  laid  out  in  shady  walks, 


►f^^ 


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•  ■  t  •  ■  '■'  >  f1 

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70 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


beds  of  beautiful   flowers,  and  velvety  lawns,  to  which 
splashing,  cooling  fountains  lend  an  additional  charm. 


M 


O 

5 

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u 

o 
m 

OD 
U 
H 

< 

00 

O 
H 
H 


This  lovely  spot  is,  of  course,  a  favorite  resort,  particu- 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


7« 


larly  when  lighted  up  in  the  evenings,  and  the  orchestra 
of  the  hotel,  composed  of  first-rate  musicians,  discourses 
the  latest  and  most  fashionable  airs.  While  lingering  in 
this  pleasant  spot  let  us  take  a  survey  of  the  noble  pro- 
portions of  this  palace,  for  such  it  may  truly  be  styled, 
and  give  an  idea  of  how  its  ettsemble  strikes  us.  Bound- 
ing the  court-yard  on  three  sides  it  rises  to  a  height  of 
six  stories,  and  the  free  elegance  of  its  architectural  lines, 
in  the  modern  French  style,  leaves  an  impression  upon 
the  observer  of  perfect  suitability  to  the  precincts,  and  the 
purpose  for  which  it  is  used.  Being  in  a  mood  for 
further  inspection,  from  delight  with  the  interior  view, 
we  proceed  to  take  an  exterior  view  of  the  whole  build- 
ing from  Broadway  and  Division  streets,  upon  which  it 
fronts,  and  along  the  former  of  which  it  extends  two 
hundred  and  thirty-two  feet,  with  six  hundred  and  fifty- 
six  feet  along  the  latter.  Here  the  wealth  of  columns, 
niches  and  attics,  surmounted  by  the  imposing  Mansard, 
and  the  whole  crested  by  three  handsome  pavilions, 
serve  to  deepen  the  impression  already  created.  Enter- 
ing by  the  main  entrance  on  Broadway,  and  being  still 
in  the  mood  for  inspection  of  details,  we  pass  through 
the  hall  into  the  offices,  roomy  and  commodious  apart- 
ments for  the  tireless  workers  of  the  business  staff,  who 
are  all  courtesy  and  attention  to  our  wants  and  inquiries, 
and  look  in  at  the  gentlemen's  especial  quarters — we  can- 
not say  haunts  in  the  face  of  the  fascinations  to  be  found 
in  other  parts  of  the  building ;  these  embrace  reading, 
smoking  and  retiring  rooms,  of  delightful  coolness  and 
restful  comfort  West  of  these,  in  the  Division  street 
wing,  are  the  dining-room,  and  above  it,  in  the  second 
story,  the  ball-room,  already  described.     Returning  to 


''>''Mi»' 


ij*  > 


•:!•.: 


\.'..n.        y 


V  i; 


*>i,... 


I.!' 


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72 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


I " 


^M'- 


the  Broadway  side,  we  are  attracted  to  the  drawing- 
room,  a  beautiful  apartment,  furnished  with  the  softest 
and  most  expensive  of  carpets,  articles  of  rare  material 
and  the  most  artistic  and  fashionable  design,  mirrors, 
chandeliers,  lace  curtains,  together  with  fresco-work  and 
ornamentation  beautiful  enough  to  satisfy  the  taste  of  the 
most  festhetical.  The  ladies'  sitting-room,  which  is  op- 
posite, is  also  fitted  up  in  the  same  style.  Ascending  by 
either  of  the  two  elevators,  in  constant  use  between  the 
several  floors,  our  courteous  cicerotie  from  the  office  draws 
our  attention  to  points  of  paramount  importance  in  the 
construction  of  a  building  of  this  kind,  and  which  are  too 
often  overlooked  for  considerations  more  showy,  but 
really  of  less  importance  to  guests,  and  points  out  the 
fire-proof  partitions  which  divide  the  whole  house  into 
five  compartments,  each  in  this  way  perfectly  insulated 
from  the  effect  of  fire  casualty  in  the  others,  informing  us 
also  that  on  every  floor  of  each  compartment  is  a  hose 
from  which  a  stream  of  water  can  be  obtained  at  a 
moment's  notice,  and  that  escapes  are  supplied  by  ten 
staircases. 

We  are  now  conducted  to  the  "  Cottage  Wing  "  which 
the  proprietors  have  made  a  special  feature  of  the  estab- 
lishment, and  requires  more  than  a  passing  mention.  It 
runs  to  the  south  of  the  court,  and  in  a  westerly  direction 
from  the  Broadway  building,  for  a  length  of  five  hundred 
and  sixty-six  feet.  The  public  had  long  felt  the  need, 
in  a  hotel  of  this  description,  of  some  provision  whereby 
absolute  privacy  and  seclusion  could  be  obtained  in  the 
midst  of  the  gaiety  and  excitement  of  this  fashionable 
watering  place,  and  the  proprietors  ever  watchful,  and 
ready   to  anticipate    and  minister  to  such  wants,  con- 


All-Roimd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


73 


structed  the  "  Cottage,"  as  it  is  suggestively  styled.  How 
admirably  this  object  has  been  attained,  the  experience 
of  numbers  who  have  enjoyed  its  comforts  and  security 
amply  testifies.  And  how  could  it  be  otherwise?  for 
here  are  rooms  separate,  or  en  suite,  from  one  to  seven, 
with  parlor,  bath-rooms,  and  all  the  modern  conveniences 
and  appliances,  with  separate  table  and  attendance. 

The  presiding  genius,  if  we  may  call  it  so,  of  all  this 
completeness  and  attractiveness  may  be  said  to  be  the 
Hon,  James  M.  Marvin,  a  name  which  has  associated  with 
it  the  growth  and  success  of  Saratoga,  while  the  vast  ex- 
perience of  Messrs.  Tompkins,  Perry,  Gage  and  Janvrin, 
in  metropolitan  hotels  of  ^the  first  class  and  in  the  most 
fashionable  summer  resorts,  is  a  guarantee  that  every- 
thing that  can  possibly  be  done  to  ensure  the  comfort  and 
gratification  of  guests,  will  be  accomplished. 

The  Grand  Union  Hotel  is  the  great  house  of 
Saratoga.  It  has  a  frontage  of  over  1800  feet.  The 
massive  tower  which  rises  in  the  centre  is  200  feet  from 
the  ground,  and  from  the  summit  of  it  a  landscape  cover- 
ing an  area  of  75  miles  is  revealed  in  wondrous  beauty. 
It  is  one  of  the  largest  hotels  in  the  country,  and  accom- 
modates 1200  guests  comfortably.  Within  is  a  court 
which  is  beautifully  shaded,  and  here  a  band  plays 
morning  and  evening.  A  vertical  railway  renders  the 
six  stories  easy  of  access  to  guests.  The  public  rooms 
are  of  prodigious  size,  and  the  office  is  most  perfect  in 
arrangement.  This  monster  hotel  has  piazzas,  in  length 
over  a  mile  ;  halls,  two  miles  ;  carpets,  10  acres  ;  number 
of  rooms,  1 100 ;  and  possesses  every  conceivable  comfort 
for  guests ;  interpreters  being  always  on  hand  to  receive 
orders  and  impart  information  to  foreign  guests  in  their 


Hit     f'\".    . 

mr 


"fv  ."it'.;"''. 

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■*'-^^. 


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74         All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

native  tongue.   Since  the  Grand  Union's  closing  in  1873 
upwards  of  five  hundred  thousand  dollars  have  been 


expended  in  decorating  and  re-furnishing,  and  it  stands 
without  any  rival  for  comfort,  ventilation  and  extent  of 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


75 


grounds.  Its  tables  are  always  loaded  with  every- 
thing the  market  affords,  and  nothing  that  time,  money 
or  care  can  effect,  will  be  left  undone  to  sustain  the 
reputation  which  the  Grand  Union  has  already  estab- 
lished, of  offering  to  its  patrons  all  the  comforts  of 
a  first-class  hotel. 

Numerous  improvements,  which  experience  and  good 
taste  have  suggested,  have  been  made.  Among  these 
may  be  mentioned  the  following :  the  electric  lights  for 
illuminating  the  garden  and  court.  The  building,  in 
which  was  the  ball-room  has  been  taken  away,  and  the 
grounds  opened  to  Federal  Street.  The  lessee  of  this 
great  establishment  is  Mr.  Henry  Clair,  who  is  also 
lessee  of  the  Park-avenue  Hotel,  Fourth  Avenue, 
Thirty-second  and  Thirty-third  Streets,  New  York 
city.  This  beautiful  building  has  six  hundred  rooms, 
with  accommodation  for  nine  hundred  people.  It  is 
the  only  absolutely  fire-proof  hotel  in  America.  The 
court,  which  is  a  hundred  feet  square,  has  electric  light, 
is  filled  with  shrubs  in  the  winter  and  rare  and 
blooming  flowers  in  the  summer  season.  An  interesting 
feature  of  the  house  is  its  fine  library,  forty  by  a 
hundred  feet,  with  convenient  tables,  writing  materials, 
and  three  thousand  volumes  of  the  various  departments 
of  literature. 

Windsor  Hotel. — This  exquisite  and  recherche  hotel 
is  located  on  South  Broadway,  and  overlooks  the 
Congress  Spring  Park.  It  is  owned  by  the  Hon. 
Henry  Hilton,  and  is  kept  on  the  American  plan. 
The  rooms  are  elegantly  furnished,  and  all  the  appoint- 
ments are  perfect  of  their  kind.  A  pagoda  furnishes  a 
cool  and  shady  retreat,  where  ice-cream  and  after-dinner 


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76 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide 


cofifee  may  be  indulged  in,  while  the  strains  of  the 
Congress  Park  Band  are  wafted  on  the  still  air,  entrancing 
the  soul  with  its  harmony.  Two  furnished  cottages  on 
the  grounds  are  attached  to  the  hotel. 

American  Hotel. — The  American  Hotel  which  was 
built  about  thirty  years  ago,  is  on  the  corner  of  Broad- 
way and  Washington  Street  It  affords  accommodation 
for  two  hundred  guests.  The  house  has  an  excellent 
reputation.  It  has  a  frontage  of  one  hundred  feet  on 
Broadway  with  spacious  piazzas,  and  is  within  easy  access 
of  the  springs,  post-office,  and  places  of  resort.  It  opens 
this  season  under  the  most  favorable  circumstances, 
Messrs.  Farnham  &  Bush  of  the  well-known  REVERE 
House,  Troy,  N.  Y.,  being  ihe  proprietors. 

Columbian. — The  Columbian  is  a  new  structure, 
pleasantly  located  on  South  Broadway,  adjoining  the 
Clarendon,  and  will  comfortably  accommodate  two 
hundred  guests.  The  house  has  a  frontage  of  a  hundred 
and  twenty  feet,  with  a  fine  piazza  which  overlooks  Con- 
gress Park  and  Springs,  directly  opposite.  It  has  always 
been  well  patronized  by  summer  visitors,  and  bids  fair  to 
be  more  popular  than  ever  during,  the  season  1 882,  as  it 
has  been  leased  for  a  term  of  years  by  Messrs.  Harris  and 
Price,  whose  long  connection  with  "Willards,"  Wash- 
ington, is  a  guarantee  that  the  House  will  be  first-class 
in  every  respect  The  rates  are  moderate,  being  $3.(X) 
per  day,  and  from  $14.00  to  $21.00  per  week. 

The  House  has  been  thoroughly  refitted  and  refurnished 
during  the  past  Spring  with  splendid  new  carpets  and 
furniture,  both  of  which  are  of  the  latest  and  most  elabo- 
rate designs,  and  guests  can  depend  upon  finding  the 
table  at  all  times  supplied  with  the  very  best  the  markets 
afford,  and  all  the  delicacies  of  the  season.     The  comfort 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


77 


of  guests  will  at  all  times  be  considered  in  every  respect, 
and  we  can  in  truth  without  fear  of  contradiction,  refer  to 
the  vast  improvements  which  have  been  made  at  this 
well-known  hostelry,  for  we  feel  that  they  are  well  worthy 
of  mention,  and  the  enterprise  that  Messrs.  Harris  & 
Price  have  put  forth  deserves  especial  notice,  as  they 
have  spared  neither  time  nor  money  in  making  improve- 
ments, and  they  cannot  help  establishing  for  themselves 
as  well  as  the  Columbian  Hotel  an  enviable  and 
well-earned  reputation  among  tourists  and  pleasure 
travelers,  who  may  visit  Saratoga  during  the  season  of 
1882.  Upon  entering  the  hotel,  one  will  observe  at  a 
glance  that  the  improvements  that  the  lessees  have  made 
since  assuming  control  of  the  house  are  not  of  an  ordinary 
character,  as  will  be  seen  by  observing  both  the  exterior 
as  well  as  the  interior,  for  every  part  of  the  house 
from  garret  to  cellar,  has  been  thoroughly  renovated 
and  all  of  the  rooms  have  been  newly  painted  and  papered, 
the  ceiling  tastefully  decorated.  All  of  the  parlor  halls 
and  [^sleeping  rooms  have  been  newly  carpeted  with 
Brussels,  three  ply  and  in-grain  carpets.  Every  room  in 
the  house  has  been  newly  furnished,  with  elegant  black 
walnut  for  the  office  parlors,  and  upon  the  second  floor, 
while  the  third  and  fourth  floors  have  fine  ash  and  cottage 
furniture,  with  beautiful  wicker  for  the  piazzas,  etc. 
There  are  electric  call-bells,  in  every  room,  and  trusty 
porters  will  be  found  at  the  stations  upon  the  arrival  of 
all  trains. 


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THE  ADELPHI   HOTEL,   SARATOGA   SPRINGS,   N.Y. 

Among  the  numerous  hotels  at  Saratoga  worthy  of 
mention,  we  take  pleasure  in  calling  the  tourist's  attention 
to  the  Adelphi,  which  is  truly  a  first-class  hotel  in  every 


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All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


sense  of  the  word.  This  new  and  beautiful  hotel,  situated 
on  Broadway,  next  to  the  United  States,  was  built  in 
187 1.  It  contains  about  one  hundred  rooms,  is  elegantly 
furnished,  and  has  very  convenient  access  to  the  promi- 
nent springs.  Its  piazza  is  elevated  a  story  above  the 
street,  and  commanding  views  are  obtained  up  and  down 
Broadway,  and  of  Philadelphia  street,  opposite.  The 
proprietor  is  Mr,  William  H.  McCaffrey,  well-known  to 
the  traveling  cc  imunity,  who  is  untiring  in  his  exer- 
tions for  the  hapij.  ess  and  comfort  of  his  patrons.  He 
has  secured  a  irsultj  ude  of  friends  from  all  parts  of  the 
United  States  arid  Canada  by  his  courtesy  to  guests ;  and 
the  writer  takes  great  pleasure  in  recommending  the 
Adelphi  to  all  tourists  and  pleasure  travelers,  who  may 
pay  this  most  beautiful  and  delightful  of  summer  resorts 
a  visit  during  the  coming  season,  and  he  can  truthfully 
say,  from  his  own  personal  experience,  that  no  pains 
will  be  spared,  by  either  the  proprietor  or  his  gentlemanly 
assistants  in  the  office,  to  make  the  "  Adelphi "  one  of 
the  finest  and  best  managed  hotel-homes,  not  only  for 
those  who  wish  to  pass  a  few  m6nths  at  this  most  fash- 
ionable of  America's  many  attractive  watering  places 
and  summer  resorts,  but  also  for  the  tourist  and  transient 
guest  The  surroundings  about  the  hot'  1  are  full  of 
interest;  the  hotel  is  delightfully  situated,  fronting 
upon  Broadway,  the  principal  thoroughfare  of  the  city, 
close  to  and  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  nearly  all  of 
the  many  celebrated  springs  which  here  abound,  and 
have  a  world-wide  reputation  for  their  various  medicinal 
qualities,  &c.  It  is  the  universal  verdict  of  tourists 
that  no  other  watering  place  on  the  continent  of  like 
size  can  begin  to  command  such  unvarying  charms  as 


All-Raufid  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


79 


Sarat(^a,  One  might  become  almost  tired  of  the  world 
and  vote  every  other  resort  a  bore;  but  Saratoga 
scenery,  Saratoga  atmosphere,  and  Saratoga  life  would 
still  charm  by  their  pleasing  peculiarities. 

The  Clarendon. — One  of  the  most  agreeable,  aristo- 
cratic, and  homelike  houses  in  Saratoga  is  the  Clarendon. 
It  was  built  in  i860,  and  this  house  has  always  been 
patronized  by  a  choice,  wealthy  and  aristocratic  class  of 
visitors,  many  of  whom,  with  the  regularity  of  the 
summer  swallows,  return  year  after  year  to  the  same 
quarters  under  its  ample  verandas.  Magnificent  elms 
surround  the  building,  which  faces  Broadway.  The 
Washington  Spring  is  within  its  ground,  whose  tonic 
waters  are  highly  prized  by  the  visitors.  At  night 
the  brilliant  gas-jets  and  the  sweet  music  of  the  band 
render  the  gay  scene  very  attractive. 

AUSSAFESTA. — Glen  Mitchel  is  situated  at  the  ter- 
minus of  North  Broadway,  and  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
from  Congress  Spring.  The  hotel  is  famous  for  its  wide 
piazzas,  its  half-mile  driving  park,  and  its  pretty  walks 
and  woods,  forming  a  very  desirable  place  for  picnic  par- 
ties. Game  breakfasts  and  dinners  are  a  speciality.  The 
drive  from  the  village  to  Glen  Mitchel,  and  thence  around 
by  the  Excelsior  Spring,  is  one  of  the  most  delightful  in 
Saratoga. 

THE  ARLINGTON  HOTEL,  SARATOGA,  SPRINGS,  N.  Y. 

Amongst  the  first-class  hotels  at  Saratoga  which  invite 
more  than  a  passing  mention  is  the  Arlington,  which, 
though  not  of  the  same  dimensions  as  some  of  its  com- 
peers, is  surpassed  by  none  of  them  in  style,  comfort,  and 
attractiveness.     It    is    situated    directly    opposite    the 


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All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


United  States,  and  fronts  on  both  Broadway  and  Divi- 
sion streets,  so  that  its  situation  is  very  favorable,  being 
in  the  midst  of  the  life  and  gaiety  of  "  the  Springs,"  and 
within  easy  distance  of  the  railway  station  and  all  the 
springs.  Its  dining-rooms,  drawing-rooms,  parlors,  and 
reception  rooms,  for  both  ladies  and  gentlemen,  are  all 


ARLINGTON  HOTEL,  SATATOGA,  N.  Y. 

handsome,  airy,  and  commodious,  furnished  in  the  latest 
style  with  costly  furniture,  and  supplied  with  all  the 
modern  conveniences  and  appointments  necessary  for 
comfort.  Rooms  may  be  had  separately,  or  en  suite. 
It  has  always  been  the  headquarters  for  the  commercial 
travel,  and  has  attached  to  itself  a  number  of  patrons 


All-Round   Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.         8i 

who  visit  it  yearly  during  the  summer,  and  each  year 
witnesses  an  increase  in  the  number  of  those  who  hold 
fast  to  the  Arlington.  The  House  is  open  all  the  year 
round,  under  the  management  of  Mr.  J.  P.  Dennin,  also 
proprietor,  who  has  had  over  twenty  years'  experience 
in  hotel  keeping ;  and  the  rates  are  reasonable.  Special 
arrangements  can  be  made  for  the  season. 

DR.  strong's  remedial  INSTITUTE. 

It  is  fitting  that  Saratoga,  a  place  where  so  many 
congregate  in  the  summer  for  pleasure,  rest,  and  recupera- 
tion of  health  by  the  use  of  the  mineral  water,  should  be 
supplied  with  an  institution,  under  the  competent 
management  of  regularly  educated  physicians,  where 
medical  advice,  with  constant  and  able  medical  super- 
vision can  be  obtained.  Such  is  Dr.  Strong's  Remedial 
Institute.  No  one  would  suspect  its  medical  character 
from  anything  seen  in  or  about  it ;  there  is  no  appearance 
of  invalidism,  and  its  prominent  features  are  those  of  a 
first-class  family  hotel.  It  is  conducted  in  summer  with 
special  reference  to  the  accommodation  of  summer 
boarders,  and  enjoys  a  most  excellent  reputation  for  its 
superior  advantages  as  a  summer  retreat.  It  affords 
abundant  facilities  for  recreation  and  entertainment — 
organ,  pianos,  fine  croquet  ground,  gymnasium,  etc. 
The  table  is  excellent,  and  all  its  appointments  first-class. 
The  bath  department  is  convenient,  complete,  and 
elegant.  A  very  noticeable  and  pleasant  feature  of  the 
house  is  its  cultured  society  and  genial  homelike 
atmosphere.  Among  its  patrons  are  many  prominent 
men,  €.g. :  Rev.  Dr.  Theodore  L.  Cuyler,  Bishop  Simpson, 
Dr.  T.  Sterry  Hunt,  Rev.  Chas.  F.  Deems,  Ex-Governor 
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J.  B.  Pajjc,  ICx-Ciovcrnor  11.  H.  Wells,  Prof.  Hcnjamin 
N.  Martin,  (N.  Y.  University),  Rev.  C.  C.  (Chaplain) 
McCabe,  D.  D.,  Miss  Frances  E.  Willard,  Judge  G.  G. 
Reynolds,  (Brooklyn),  Medical  Professors,  Armor,  Ross, 
and  Knapp. 


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The  institution  is  pleasantly  located  on  Circular  street, 
the  most  beautiful  avenue  in  Saratoga,  within  five 
minutes  easy  walk  of  the  large  hotels,  principal  springs, 
and  Congress  Park.  This  situation  ensures  both  quiet 
and  easy  access  to  the  summer  gaieties  of  the  place. 


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All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


83 


The  cathartic,  tonic,  diuretic,  alkaline,  and  alterative 
mineral  waters,  with  the  dry,  uniform  and  bracing 
climate,  bring  invalids  here  at  all  seasons  of  the  year. 

In  addition  to  ordinary  remedial  agents,  are  used  such 
special  appliances  as  Turkish,  Russian,  Roman,  Electro- 
Thermal  and  all  other  Hydropathic  baths  ;  Galvan  nd 
Farad ic  Electricity  ;  Vacuum  treatment ;  Inhala 
medicated  Oxygen  ;  compressed  and  rarified  air  ;  S 
movement,  health  lift,  calisthenics,  and  the  various 
mineral  waters. 

The  Institute  has  the  appointment,  appurtenances  and 
elegance  of  a  first-class  modern  hotel.  Its  ample  hallsi 
parlors,  dining,  bath  and  other  public  rooms  are 
thoroughly  warmed  by  steam,  while  its  extensive  piazzas 
afford  opportunities  for  exercise  at  all  times. 

The  advantages  of  a  well  regulated  hygienic  institution 
so  completely  equipped  and  under  the  able  management 
of  regularly  educated  physicians  (the  Drs.  are  all 
graduates  of  N,  Y.  University)  is  obvious.  It  is  open 
all  the  year,  and  patronized  by  the  medical  profession. 

Circulars  giving  full  description  of  the  institution,  with 
references,  terms,  and  other  information  furnished  on 
application  to  the  proprietors,  Drs.  S.  S.  and  S.  E. 
Strong. 

Temple  Grove. — This  hotel  occupies  a  block  on 
Circular  street,  bounded  by  Spring  and  Regent  streets. 
Willis  E.  Dowd  is  the  manager,  and  it  possesses  very 
good  accommodation  for  families  through  the  summer. 
During  the  remainder  of  the  year  it  is  occupied  as  a 
young  ladies'  seminary. 

There  are  several  smaller  hotels  and  boarding-houses, 
which  are  kept  in  excellent  style.     Among  these  are  the 


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84        All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

Everett  House,  Arlington,  Holden  House,.  Waverly, 
Pavilion,  White's,  Mrs.  Wilbur's,  Dr.  Bedortha's,  Empire, 
Commercial,  Broadway,  Mount  Pleasant,  Washingfton 
Hall.  On  Franklin  street  are,  Mrs.  Wicks',  Mrs. 
Spooner's,  N.  B.  Morey's ;  and  on  West  Congress  is 
Pitney's.  Numerous  others  are  in  various  parts  of  the 
town, — more  quiet  than  the  hotels,  with  shaded  grounds 
and  piazzas,  and  very  attractive  lawns  for  croquet  and 
other  out-door  amusements. 

Having  made  our  choice,  we  sally  forth  to  see  the 
sights,  and  at  once  decide  that  Saratoga  is  a  very 
pleasant  and  pretty  village.  We  find  its  streets  wide, 
and  well  shaded  twith  trees,  while  on  either  hand  rise 
lofty  and  elegant  structures.  But  our  steps  ^re  directed 
towards  the  "  Springs,"  and  as  we  visit,  in  turn,  those 
wonderful  outflows  from  the  bosom  of  mother  earth,  we 
are  informed  that,  for  their  improvement  and  utilization, 
hundreds  of  thousands  of  dollars  have  been  expended, 
and  that  at  the  present  moment,  Saratoga  contributes 
of  its  healing  waters  "to  almost  every  portion  of  the 
habitable  globe." 

ITS  SPRINGS, 

The  springs  in  the  Saratoga  Valley  are  among  the 
remarkable  natural  curiosities  of  the  world.  The  waters 
which  flow  from  these  natural  curiosities  are  known  as 
"  chalybeate,  and  acidulous  saline."  This  division  arises 
from  the  relative  proportions  of  their  particles,  the  con- 
stituent ones  being  carbonate  of  soda,  chloride  of 
sodium,  carbonate  of  magnesia,  hydriodate  of  soda, 
silica  and  alumina,  carbonic  acid  gas,  with  occasionally 
traces  of  iodine  and  potassa.  According  to  the  propor- 
tions of  these  found  in  each  spring,  so  is  the  name  given. 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


85 


Each  spring  has  its  local  history,  which  is  interesting 
in  its  discovery,  and  the  subsequent  efforts  of  the  owners 
to  preserve  and  utilize  it  The  tubing  of  a  spring  is  an 
expensive  affair,  which  costs  thousands  of  dollars.  This 
arises  in  part  from  the  difficulty  of  securing  the  carbonic- 
acid  gas.  Materials,  which  would  answer  well  in  cases  of 
an  ordinary  spring,  prove  to  be  entirely  useless  with  the 
acidulous  mineral  water.  Ordinary  cement,  which  answers 
perfectly  well  with  fresh  water,  proves  no  barrier  to  the 
escape  of  carbonic-acid  gas,  and  in  time  it  will  be  taken 
into  combination  with  it 

Congress  Spring,  owned  by  the  Congress  and 
Empire  Spring  Company. — Congress  Spring  stands  at 
the  head  of  the  numerous  springs  which  abound  in 
Saratoga.  Its  discovery  is  thus  related  by  Dr.  Steel: 
"During  the  summer  of  1792  three  gentlemen  were 
boarding  at  Risley's,  who  frequently  amused  themselves 
in  hunting  for  small  game  in  the  neighboring  woods. 
One  of  them,  John  Taylor,  a  member  of  Congress  from 
New  Hampshire,  accidentally  discovered  a  small  stream 
of  water  issuing  from  an  aperture  in  a  rock,  the  face  of 
which  formed  the  side  of  the  brook.  On  examining  it 
attentively,  he  found  it  to  be  a  strong  mineral  water. 
He  communicated  this  discovery  to  his  associates  ;  and 
in  the  afternoon  of  the  same  day  he  conducted  his  land- 
lord, with  a  number  of  other  persons  to  the  spot"  It  was 
situated  a  few  feet  farther  west,  and  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  brook  from  where  the  spring  now  is.  The  water 
issued  from  a  worn  hole  in  a  large  mass  of  silicious  lime- 
rock.  The  discovery  was  deemed  an  important  one ; 
and  out  of  respect  to  the  discoverer,  and  as  a  compliment 
to  the  superior  strength  of  the  waters,  the  same  was,  by 


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86 


AU'Raund  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


the  consent  of  all  parties  present,  dignified  by  the  name 
of  "  Congress  Spring."  It  was  tubed  by  Gideon 
Putnam,  and  was  first  bottled,  as  an  article  of 
merchandise,  in  1823.  It  is  situated  in  the  Congress 
Spring  Park,  which  is  tastefully  laid  out  with  trees 
and  walks,  and  adorned  with  statuary. 

The  Columbian  is  in  the  same  grounds,  and  but  a 
few  rods  south-west  of  the  Congress.  It  contains  much 
more  iron  than  the  latter.  While  it  has  the  same  ingre- 
dients as  the  Congress,  it  differs  in  the  quantity  of  the 
articles  held'  in  solution.  It  occupies  a  distinguished 
rank  among  the  tonic  waters  of  the  place. 

For  further  particulars  concerning  the  analysis,  etc.  of 
Congress  and  Empire  Springs,  we  refer  our  readers  to 
descriptive  notice  to  be  found  on  back  of  maps  of 
Saratoga,  and  Niagara  Falls. 

The  first  spring  tubed  in  Saratoga,  but  almost  the  last 
prepared  as  an  article  of  commerce,  is  the 

WASHINGTON  SPRING. 

The  Washington  spring  is  in  the  grounds  of  the  Claren- 
don Hotel.  It  was  tubed  by  Gideon  Putman  in  1806. 
In  the  year  1856  the  ground  passed  ir*  he  possession  of 
John  H.  White ;  and  in  1858  he  su.  a  shaft  eleven 
feet  square,  to  the  depth  of  thirty  feet,  through  clay  and 
hardpan,  to  the  calciferous  sand  rock  underneath.  The 
water  was  found  to  enter  from  the  south-west  side,  and 
accordingly  a  tunnel  was  excavated  in  that  direction. 
At  this  point,  while  exploring  with  an  iron  rod,  the  earth 
suddenly  gave  way,  and  the  water  and  gas  flowed  into 
the  shaft  with  such  force  that  the  workmen  had  barely 
time  to  escape,  leaving  their  tools  behind  them  at  the 


All-Routtd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


87 


bottom  of  the  pit.  A  second  shaft  was  now  excavated 
at  the  extreme  end  of  the  tunnel,  and  protected  by  a 
coffer-dam  built  with  heavy  timbers  and  plank  ;  but  on 


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reaching  a  depth  of  twenty-eight  feet,  the  accumulated 
water  and  gas  burst  in  the  coping  and  again  drove  off  the 
workmen. 


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88 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


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A  third  shaft  was  now  commenced  still  farther  to  the 
south-east;  but  instead  of  the  tubing  which  had  been 
before  used,  a  curb  was  formed  from  ten-inch  plank  cut 
into  beveled  segments.  These  were  laid,  one  above 
another,  so  as  to  effectually  break  joints,  and  then  spiked 
firmly  together ;  which  formed,  when  completed,  a  strong 
tube  of  wood  ten  inches  thick,  and  twenty  feet  in  diame- 
ter. This  was  continued  with  the  excavation  to  the  sand- 
rock,  where  two  fountains  were  discovered  issuing  from 
the  same  fissure  within  the  distance  of  twenty  feet  The 
more  south-western  was  selected  as  presenting  the  finest 
appearance  and  as  the  loose  ground  was  removed,  a  full, 
gushing  volume  of  water,  one  inch  wide  and  six  inches 
long,  came  rolling  and  boiling  out  of  the  rock,  bubbling 
and  sparkling  with  gas.  The  spring  is  chalybeate,  and 
the  peculiar  taste  of  iron  is  perceptible.  Many  regard  it 
as  the  most  agreeable  beverage  in  Saratoga. 

Near  this  there  was  formerly  a  fish  pond  containing 
a  large  number  of  trout. 

The  Crystal  Spring  is  on  South  Broadway,  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  Columbian  Hotel.  It  was  opened  and 
tubed  by  C.  R.  Brown,  the  proprietor,  in  1870,  who  also 
built  on  this  site  a  magnificent  hotel,  extending  to  Con- 
gress Street,  five  stories  high,  with  five  hundred  rooms 
and  twenty-seven  stairways.  It  was  accidentally  destroyed 
by  fire  in  1875. 

Hathorn  Spring. — This  was  accidentally  discovered 
in  1869  while  workmen  were  clearing  away  the 
ground  for  the  foundation  of  the  Congress  Hall  Block, 
which  contains  the  ball-room.  The  waters  are  bottled. 
It  is  a  powerful  cathartic,  and  is  very  conveniently  located 
on  Spring  Street,  next  to  Congress  Hall.     It  is   named 


islUi.  „> 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


89 


I 


after  Hon.  Henry  H.  Hathorn,  the  owner,  who  also  built 
the  magnificent  hotel,  Congress  Hall.  The  spring  has 
been  re-excavated  and  re-tubed  at  an  expense  of  fifteen 
thousand  dollars,  and  it  now  rises  for  a  distance  of  forty 
feet  below  the  surface,  from  a  fissure  in  the  rock  of  one 
by  three  inches.  This  fissure  was  drilled  out  two  and  a 
half  feet  deep,  and  a  hopper  placed  over  the  cavity. 
The  water  gushes  from  this  at  the  rate  of  ninety  gallons 
per  hour.  The  amount  now  put  up  in  bottles  is  four 
hundred  dozen  per  day,  which  is  sold  for  three  dollars 
per  dozen.  The  Hathorn  is  one  of  the  most  valuable  | 
springs  in  Saratoga.  The  water  contains  eight  hundred 
and  eighty-eight  grains  of  solid  contents  in  a  gallon,  and 
contains  chloride  of  sodium,  with  bicarbonate  of  lithia. 

The  Pavilion  Spring  is  located  in  the  Pavilion 
Park,  between  Caroline  Street  and  Lake  Avenue.  It  was 
situated  in  a  deep  morass,  whence  it  rose  through  an 
alluvial  deposit  of  over  forty  feet  in  depth.  It  was  tubed 
by  Daniel  McLaren,  in  1839.  A  crib,  fifteen  feet  square, 
made  of  logs  firmly  locked  together  at  the  corners,  was 
placed  around  the  spring,  and  the  excavation  then  fol- 
lowed until  the  hard  pan  was  reached.  After  placing  the 
tube,  it  was  packed  in  the  usual  manner  with  clay.  In 
1869  t^c  spring  was  re-tubed,  and  the  tube  was  carried 
down  ten  feet  to  the  solid  rock.  Sulphate  of  potassa 
and  bicarbonate  of  lithia,  in  large  quantities,  are  only 
found  at  this  spring.  Great  improvements  were  made 
about  the  grounds  by  Mr.  William  Walton,  who  filled 
them  in,  straightened  the  channel  of  the  creek,  laid  out 
walks,  planted  shade-trees,  and  constructed  suitable 
buildings  for  bottling  the  water.  While  re-tubing  the 
Pavilion  a  new  spring  was  discovered,  flowing  from  the 


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90         All-Rourtd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

east :  it  has  been  secured,  and  its  waters  analysed.  It  is 
known  as  the  United  States. 

High  Rock. — The  High  Rock  Spring  is  considered 
one  of  the  most  interesting  among  the  natural  curiosities 
of  the  country. 

Dr.  Valentine  Seaman,  in  his  description  of  the  spring, 
observes,  "  The  more  we  reflect  upon  it,  the  more  we 
must  be  convinced  of  the  important  place  this  rock  ought 
to  hold  among  the  wonderful  works  of  nature.  Had  it 
stood  on  the  borders  of  the  l^ogo  d'Agnaus,  the  noted 
Grotto  del  Cani,  which,  since  the  peculiar  properties  of 
carbonic  acid  have  been  known,  burdens  almo:st  every 
book  which  treats  upon  the  gas,  it  would  never  have  been 
heard  of  beyond  the  environs  of  Naples,  while  this  foun- 
tain, in  its  place,  would  have  been  deservedly  celebrated 
in  story,  and  spread  upon  canvas  to  the  admiration  of 
the  world  as  one  of  the  greatest  curiosities." 

The  following  measurement  of  High  Rock  Spring  was 
made  in  1856: — 


FT.    IN. 


At  tbe  surface  of  the  ground  the  circumference  is 
Diameter  of  aperture  four  inches  below  the  top 
Height  of  the  rock  above  the  ground  . 

Water  in  the  rock  above  the  ground 
Depth  of  the  spring  from  the  top  of  the  rock 
From  the  top  of  the  rock  to  the  water  within 


24 

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The  High  Rock  Spring  was  visited  by  Sir  Wm. 
Johnson  in  1767.  He  was  then  residing  in  Johnson  Hall, 
in  Fulton  county,  about  30  miles  from  Saratoga.  It  is 
said  that  he  was  the  first  white  man  who  ever  visited  the 
springs,  and  the  first  civilized  person  who  used  their 
waters  medicinally.     He  was  carried  thither  on  a  litter, 


AU^Round  Route  attd  Panoramic  Guide, 


9t 


by  Indians,  and,  after  a  stay  of  a  few  weeks,  left  his  bed 
and  returned  home  on  foot.  Our  illustration  represents 
this  eventful  visit.  ' 

The  walls  of  the  rock  are  of  nearly  uniform  thickness 
throughout,     In  1763  Gen.  Philip  Schuyler  visited  the 


spring,  and  remained  some  weeks  camping  out.  An 
aged  chief  of  the  St.  Regis  tribe  of  Indians  told  the  late 
Chancellor  Walworth  that  he  visited  this  spring  when  a 
boy,  and  that  he  was  told  by  the  Indians  that  the  water 


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92 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


once  ran  over  the  top  ;  but  owing,  as  they  supposed,  to 
some  of  their  women  bathing  in  it  when  they  ought  not 
to  have  done  so,  the  water  went  back  into  the  rock,  and 
never  showed  itself  again  at  the  top.  In  1866  Seymour 
Ainsworth,  to  whom  Saratoga  is  indebted  for  many  of 
her  most  tasteful  buildings,  and  Willikm  McCaffrey,  then 
the  owners  of  the  spring,  removed  the  rock,  and  found 
below  it  a  chamber  two  feet  in  diameter,  and  ten  feet 
deep.  Immediately  beneath  the  rock  lay  the  body  of  a 
tree  eighteen  inches  in  diameter,  which  still  retained  its 
form,  and  was  sufficiently  firm  to  be  sawed  into  sections 
and  taken  out.  Several  feet  farther  down,  the  body  of 
an  oak  eight  inches  in  diameter  was  found,  which  had 
suffered  but  little  decay.  How  many  hundreds  or 
thousands  of  years  these  trees  must  have  lain  there,  we 
leave  to  the  imagination  to  tell.  They  must  certainly 
have  fallen  before  the  surface-rock  began  forming. 

Star. — The  Star,  formerly  called  the  Iodine,  has 
been  known  for  about  half  a  century.  It  has  a  fine 
reputation.  The  water  is  largely  charged  with  carbonic 
acid  gas,  and  is  particularly  valuable  as  a  bottling  water. 
The  spring  has  been  recently  re-tubed.  It  contains 
twenty  grains  of  iodine  to  a  gallon  of  water. 

Seltzer. — The  Seltzer  Spring  is  about  two  rods 
distant  from  the  High  Rock.  But,  although  in  such  close 
proximity,  its  waters  are  entirely  different.  An  ingenious 
contrivance  here  exhibits  the  flow  of  the  waters  and  its 
gas.  It  consists  of  a  glass  tube  three  feet  in  height,  and 
fifteen  inches  in  diameter,  which  is  placed  over  the 
spring,  and  through  which  the  clear,  bubbling  water 
gushes  in  a  steady  volume  ;  while,  faster  than  the  water, 
fiow  the  glittering  globules  of  carbonic-acid  gas.     This 


::.JL  '  .U 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


93 


flow  is  abundant  and  constant';  but  every  few  minutes, 
as  the  watchful  visitor  will  observe,  there  is  a  momentary 
ebullition  of  an  extraordinary  quantity,  which  causes  the 
water  in  the  tube  to  boil  over  the  rim.  In  sunshine,  the 
liquid  presents  a  beautiful  appearance.  The  character 
of  the  water  is  said  to  be  almost  identical  with  the 
celebrated  Nassau  Spring  of  Germany,  and  is  claimed 
to  be  the  only  seltzer  water  in  the  country. 

Empire  Spring. — This  celebrated  and  popular  spring 
was  taken  in  charge  in  1846.  The  tube  is  scribed  down 
to  the  surface  of  the  rock,  and  is  about  eleven  feet  in  f 
length.  The  fountain  discharges  about  seventy-five 
gallons  per  hour.  This  spring  belongs  to  the  Congress 
and  Empire  Spring  Company,  who  last  year  sold  thirty 
thousand  dozen  bottles  of  the  water. 

Red  Spring. — ^The  Red  Spring  is  a  few  rods  beyond 
the  Empire,  and  is  located  on  Spring  Avenue.  Quanti- 
ties of  ferruginous  deposits  are  found  about  it,  which  give 
the  water,  when  agitated,  a  red  appearance,  from  which 
circumstance  it  derives  its  name.  John  A.  Carpenter  & 
Co.,  the  proprietors,  have  had  the  spring  re-tubed,  and  a 
neat  pavilion  and  bottling-house  have  been  erected.  It 
is  adapted  to  eruptive  ?.nd  skin  diseases,  salt-rheum, 
scrofula,  &c. ;  and  its  general  effect  is  to  tone  up  the 
system,  and  vitalize  the  blood. 

"A"  Spring. — ^This  fountain  is  located  a  few  rods  from 
the  Red  Spring,  and  is  rapidly  growing  in  favor.  Its 
water  is  quite  extensively  bottled  for  sale.  Public  atten- 
tion was  called  to  this  spring  in  1867,  when  the  orifice 
was  tubed  down  to  a  depth  of  thirty-two  feet  upon  the 
solid  rock ;  and  the  stream  has  since  flowed  in  great 
purity.    The  Saratoga  "  A  "  water  is  one  of  the  most 


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94 


All-Round  Route  atid  Panoramic  Guide, 


1 1 «. 


effectual  mineral  springs  found  on  either  continent  The 
analysis  shows  four  times  the  strength  of  Baden  Baden» 
and  three  times  greater  than  the  Kissingen  of  Bavaria. 

The  Excelsior  Spring  and  Park  is  about  one  mile 
east  of  the  Passenger  Depot  at  Saratoga  Springs, 
situated  in  a  beautiful  valley,  skirted  on  one  side 
by  a  large  and  picturesque  piece  of  woods,  and  is 
one  of  the  most  delightful  spots  to  visit  at  Saratoga. 
The  Excelsior  is  reached  by  passing  up  Spring  Avenue, 
which  has  lately  been  graded  and  handsomely  laid  out. 
The  scenery  here  is  most  romantic.  The  water-works 
and  Loughberry  Lake  are  in  this  vicinity. 

The  Geyser  or,  Spouting  Spring,  is  situated  about 
a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  village.  It  was  discovered  in 
1870.  Appearance  of  a  spring  in  the  vicinity  led  to 
the  sinking  of  a  shaft  through  solid  rock  140  feet  deep, 
when  the  waters  burst  forth  and  spouted  a  considerable 
distance  from  the  surface.  The  water  is  exceedingly 
cold,  being  only  14  degrees  above  the  freezing  point 
For  Dyspepsia  this  water  is  unrivaled,  as  it  contains 
more  Soda  and  Magnesia  combined  (220,575  grains) 
than  any  other  Saratoga  spring  water,  and  should  be 
taken  with  or  after  meals.  A  high  authority  says : 
"  The  Geyser  Spring  Water  is  the  best  adapted  fpr  Liver 
and  Kidney  Diseases,  and  is  applicable  to  a  greater 
number  of  persons  than  any  Spring  at  Saratoga." 

For  many  years  the  Ellis  Spring  (named  after  Robert 
Ellis,  Esq.,  a  highly  respected  citizen,  and  its  late  owner) 
was  known ;  but  it  was  of  little  importance  when  com- 
pared with  the  larger  springs  in  its  immediate  vicinity. 
Finally  preparations  were  made  by  Messrs.  Vail  &  Seary, 
the   woners   of  the   bolt-factory,  to   bore  for  a  better 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        95 


development  of  the  spring.   After  sinking  a  shaft  through 
the  solid  rock  a  hundred  and  thirty-two  feet,  they  struck 


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All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


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several  feet  above  the  surface.  The  rock  formation 
proved  to  be  a  stratum  of  slate,  eighty  feet  thick,  beneath 
which  was  a  deposit  of  bird's-eye  limestone,  in  which  the 


mineral  vein  was  struck.  The  tubing  is  block-tin  pipe, 
two  inches  in  diameter,  incased  with  iron.  The  temper- 
ature of  the  spring  is  only  fourteen  degrees  above  the 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


97 


freezing  point.  The  water  is  more  strongly  impregnated 
with  mineral  and  medicinal  substances  than  any  other 
known. 

The  beautiful  grounds,  as  well  as  the  spring  and  bot- 
tling house,  are  open  to  visitors.  They  are  privileged 
to  drink  the  waters,  examine  the  process  of  bottling, 
wander  through  the  grounds,  lounge  on  the  seats,  row  on 
the  pretty  lake,  take  lunch  under  the  awnings,  and 
admire  the  beautiful  waterfall,  where  the  silvery  stream 
takes  a  leap  of  twenty-five  or  thirty  feet  down  into  a 
shady  dell.  Twenty-seven  omnibuses  are  daily  em- 
ployed, during  the  season,  in  bringing  visitors  from  the 
village  to  the  spring  ;  and  thousands  of  visitors  have 
recorded  their  names  on  the  register  in  a  single  season, 

An  artistic  basin  in  the  spring  house  sustains  the  iron 
^  pipe,  and  from  this  rises  the  effervescent  water.  An 
opening  in  the  ceiling  allows  it  full  play,  and  here  it 
constantly  rises  and  falls.  The  globe  on  the  well-curb, 
through  which  the  stream  of  water  flows,  enables  one  to 
see  the  thick  current  of  gas  as  it  rises  and  escapes  at  the 
top.  The  water  is  put  up  in  pint  and  quart  bottles,  also 
Jn  tin-lined  barrels  of  thirty  gallons  each,  and  is  exported 
all  over  the  world. 

The  Vichy. — Opposite  the  Geyser,  in  the  midst  of 
the  park,  which  embraces  a  beautiful  lawn  sloping  down 
to  Geyser  Lake,  is  the  Saratoga  Vichy  Spring.  The 
rock  was  here  drilled  to  the  depth  of  one  hundred  and 
eighty-two  feet  before  water  was  struck,  when  it  spouted 
out  to  a  height  of  thirty  feet.  It  was  opened  in  1872. 
This  is  an  alkaline  water,  while  most  of  the  springs  are 
saline ;  that  is,  the  alkaline  properties — lithia,  soda, 
magnesia  overbalance  the  chloride  of  sodium,  or  salt, 

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98 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


and  is  therefore  recommended  in  an  entirely  different 
class  of  cases.  It  is  found  to  be  a  cure  for  dyspepsia* 
and  tones  up  the  system. 

In  1872  the  Glacier  Spring  was  discovered  near  the 
Geyser,  and,  like  it,  is  also  a  spouting  spring. 

THE  CHAMPION  SPOUTING  SPRING. 

Among  the  new  features  of  attractions  to  the  thou- 
sands of  people  who  visit  Saratoga,  is  the  "  Champion 
Spouting  Spring,"  which  is  most  justly  considered  the 
Wonder  among  the  Springs  of  this  far-famed  Summer 
resort  and  watering-place.  It  was  discovered  in  August, 
1 87 1,  and  is  situated  on  Ballston  Avenue,  about  one 
mile  from  the  principal  hotels  of  the  village. 

After  a  careful  observation  of  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  the  indications  were  such  as  to  invite  a  deeper 
search,  which  it  was  hoped  would  reveal  a  hitherto 
unknown  Fountain  of  Healing. 

The  work  of  boring  was  commenced  and  continued  at 
a  large  expenditure  of  money,  until  the  depth  of  300  feet 
was  reached,  passing  through  slate  rock,  limestone  and 
magnesian  lime,  beneath  which  was  found  an  opening  of 
six  inches  in  depth,  in  which  the  mineral  water  runs, 
and  which  is  believed  to  be  the  main  channel  or  fountain 
head  of  all  the  mineral  waters  of  Saratoga. 

On  reaching  this  cavity  the  water  burst  forth  with 
great  force,  throwing  a  column  six  and  one  half  inches  in 
diameter  to  the  height  of  twenty-five  feet  above  the 
orifice.  The  Spring  was  then  carefully  and  securely 
tubed  and  cemented,  that  it  might  be  protected  against 
any  impurity  from  fresh  or  surface  water. 

The  tube  being  two  inches  in  diameter  is  carried  ten 


All-Roun     l.oute  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


99 


feet  above  the  surface,  on  the  top  of  which  is  attached  a 
tapering  tube  with  a    quarter   inch  opening,  through 


THE  CHAliriON  SPUUNU. 


which  the  water  continually  spouts  to  the  height  of  30  to 
35  feet.  By  removing  the  small  tube,  a  column  of  foam- 
ing and  sparkling  water  is   permitted  to  escape  with 


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I  bo      All'Raufid  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

much  greater  force,  being  thrown  into  the  air  to  the 
height  of  80  to  100  feet,  and  every  afternoon  at  five  o'clock 
during  the  summer,  a  large  company  gathers  to  witness 
this  fine  display,  which  here  resembles  the  Yellowstone 
or  Iceland  Geysers.  In  the  winter  the  water  freezes 
around  the  tube,  and  frequently  forms  a  pyramid  of  solid 
and  variegated  ice,  thirty  or  forty  feet  high,  and  four  or 
five  feet  in  diameter  at  the  base.  The  engraving  indi- 
cates the  general  appearance  of  the  Spring,  day  and 
night  throughout  the  year.  The  surroundings  have  been 
beautified,  and  now  offer  all  the  attractions  of  the  older 
Springs. 

Prof.  C.  F.  Chindler,  of  the  Columbia  College  School 
of  Mines,  one  of  the  best  analytical  chemists  in  the 
country,  visited  this  Spring  shortly  after  its  discovery, 
and  from  analysis,  made  from  the  water  tal^en  by  him  at 
the  time,  it  exhibits  a  combination  of  medicinal  qualities 
not  found  in  so  rich  a  proportion  in  any  other  Spring. 

The  Champion  Spouting  Spring  water  contains  a 
larger  amount  of  carbonic  acid  gas  than  any  other  Spring, 
and  holds  the  heavy  and  valuable  minerals  embraced  in 
its  composition,  in  perfect  solution,  thus  rendering  it 
impervious  to  the  effects  of  age  or  climate. 

Its  remarkable  cure  of  some  of  the  prevailing  diseases 
has  given  this  Spring  great  favor  with  professional  men 
and  others,  whose  occupations  are  sedentary. 

It  has  been  found  an  invaluable  remedy  in  the  treat- 
ment of  cutaneous  diseases,  scrofula  of  every  type,  liver 
complaint,  dyspepsia,  bilious  complaints,  acidity  of  the 
stomach,  nausea,  rheumatism  and  neuralgia.  It  is  a 
mojst  excellent  preventive  of  fevers  and  bilious  dis- 
orders,  so   common   in   the   malarial   districts   of  our 


jr: 


AlURound  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        loi 

country ;  and  it  is  a  well-known  fact  that  distinguished 
physicians  have  strongly  advised  the  use  of  natural 
mineral  waters  in  such  districts,  for  drinking  purposes 
as  far  as  possible,  in  place  of  the  local  fresh  water. 
Owing  to  the  large  amount  of  lithia,  magnesia  and 
bi-carbonate  of  lime  it  contains,  it  is  highly  commended  ; 
also,  for  Bright's  disease  of  the  kidneys,  and  all  diseases 
of  the  bladder. 

These  spouting  springs  have  become  a  great  feature 
in  Saratoga.  Tapped  at  vast  depths,  they  send  forth 
from  concealed  caverns  columns  of  water  and  gas  from 
twenty  to  sixty  feet  high.  Ballston  Avenue,  eighty  feet 
wide,  has  been  laid  out  from  the  village  to  this  spot. 
The  Geyser  Park,  which  consists  of  about  a  hundred 
acres,  invites  the  visitor  to  rest  by  its  numerous  chairs 
and  rustic  seats,  placed  in  shady  grottos,  or  overlooking 
the  landscape.  The  whole  of  this  interesting  region  is 
fast  becoming  one  of  Saratoga's  greatest  attractions. 

In  addition  to  the  above  may  be  mentioned  the  Crys- 
tal, Hamilton,  Putnam,  Triton,  Spouting,  Flat  Rock, 
Magnetic,  Eureka,  White  Sulphur,  Iron,  and  Diamond 
Springs,  which  are  all  worthy  a  visit,  on  account  of  their 
curative  properties. 

We  have  now  shown  the  tourist,  and  explained  to 
him,  the  nature  of  the  wonders  which  annually  attract 
such  immense  throngs  to  Saratoga,  increasing  as  "  the 
season"  reaches  its  height,  until  the  village  from  a  regular 
population  of  about  I0,0CK)  has  within  its  boundaries 
over  30,000.  We  now  take  pleasure  in  calling  the  visitor's 
attention  to  Sarat(^a's  numerous  walks,  drives,  etc. 

One  of  the  pleasantest  walks  about  Saratoga  is 
that  through  the  beautiful  Congress  Spring  Park, 


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102       Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

and  then  around  by  the  Indian  encampment  to  the 
cemetery.  Congress  Park  has  been  very  much 
improved  of  late  years.  An  artistic  pavilion  extends 
from  the  grand  entrance  to  the  spring,  from  which  the 
water  is  drawn  up  by  automatic  power.  Thence  is  a 
lai^e  arbor-like  colonnade  extending  to  the  cafe,  where 
hot  coffee  is  served  up,  with  other  refreshments.  An 
artificial  lake,  with  a  pagoda  for  the  Park  band,  is  in 
front,  while  on  the  side-hill  are  hundreds  of  seats  for  the 
use  of  the  crowd  who  assemble  nightly  and  daily  to  hear 
the  delicious  music. 

Statues  line  the  pathways,  and  at  the  extreme  end  of 
the  ravine  is  an  enclosure  which  is  the  homeaf  a  family 
of  deer. 

The  Cemetery  was  laid  out  about  twenty-five  years 
ago,  and  contains  many  beautiful  mouuments.  Willow 
Walk  extends  from  the  Pavilion  grounds  in  the  valley 
of  the  springs  to  the  Empire.  It  is  pleasantly  shaded. 
Beyond  is  a  beautiful  path  through  the  grove  to  the 
Excelsior  Spring. 

There  are  many  drives  about  Saratoga  ;  but  by  far  the 
prettiest  is  that  extending  through  the  magnificent 
Broadway,  from  Highland  Hall,  for  two  miles,  to  Glen 
Mitchell.  The  most  fashionable  drive  is  to  the  lake. 
Immense  sums  have  been  expended  to  straighten  and 
widen  the  road,  which  is  now  a  hundred  feet  wide,  and 
is  divided  in  the  centre  by  a  row  of  shade-trees ; 
carriages  go  up  one  side,  and  down  the  other.  In  the 
summer  it  is  kept  sprinkled,  to  lay  the  dust,  and  is 
lined  with  the  carriages  of  the  summer-resident. 

Saratoga  Lake  was  called  by  the  Indians  "  Kayade- 
roga."     It  is  eight  miles  long,  and  two  and  a  half  miles 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       103 

broad.  It  is  an  expansion  of  Kayaderosseras  Creek, 
which  enters  from  its  western  shore.  Passing  out  of  the 
lake,  the  water  takes  the  name  of  Fish  Creek,  which, 
after  supplying  a  water-power  to  Victory  Mills,  unites 
with  the  Hudson  at  Schuylerville,  On  an  eminence  on 
the  western  shore  is  Carey  B.  Moon's  celebrated  Lake 
House.  Game  breakfasts  and  dinners  are  here  served 
up  in  most  approved  style.  Persons  fond  of  boating, 
fishing,  or  sailing  can  here  enjoy  their  favorite  pastime, 
as  bait-fish  and  boats  are  always  in  waiting  at  the  wharf. 

The  peculiar  fitness  of  Saratoga  Lake  for  boat-racing 
has  long  been  recognized  by  American  oarsmen.  Easy 
of  access,  ample  in  dimensions,  removed  from  the  temp- 
tations common  to  large  cities,  and  lacking  the  currents 
and  eddies  which,  on  other  courses,  are  found  so  per- 
plexing to  strangers,  it  is  a  spot  which  combines  a  health- 
ful location  for  training,  and  satisfactory  water  for  racing 
purposes.  Hence  it  has  been  frequently  selected  for 
important  matches,  and  here  have  occurred  many  of  the 
most  noteworthy  contests  in  the  aquatic  annals  of  the 
country. 

Attention  was  first  drawn  to  the  lake  by  its  being 
chosen,  in  1871,  as  the  scene  of  the  first  international 
regatta  ever  seen  in  this  country,  when  the  Ward  Brothers 
of  Corn wall-on-the- Hudson,  in  a  four-oared  race, 
defeated  two  English  crews,  which  included  the  finest 
professional  oarsmen  to  be  found  in  Great  Britain. 

During  the  height  of  the  season,  the  hotel  arrivals 
frequently  number  1,000  daily. 

Life  in  Saratoga  is  two-fold — Home,  and  Hotel.  The 
former  is  enjoyed  by  the  residents  of  the  village,  whose 
refined  and  elegant  homes  are  not  to  be  excelled  in  any 


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104       Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

city  of  the  United  States.  Hotel  or  fashionable  life  is 
ephemeral  in  its  nature,  and,  like  the  beauteous  butter- 
fly, its  duration  is  but  for  a  short  season.  In  those  few 
brief  months,  wealth,  beauty,  fashion,  and  other  ingre- 
dients not  so  desirable,  intermingle,  and  amid  the  gay 
whirl  and  excitement  of  the  ball-room  at  nights,  visits  to 
the  Spring  in  the  morning,  and  promenades  or  drives  in 
the  afternoon,  is  found  the  daily  programme  of  the  plea- 
sure-seekers. Among  the  other  outside  diversions  are 
visits  to  the  Indian  camp,  to  the  battle-grounds  of 
Saratoga  and  Stillwater,  which  are  also  pleasant  features. 
Willing,  though  we  may  be  to  linger  amidst  these  plea- 
sant scenes  we  are  compelled  to  continue  our  journey. 
But  before  returning  to  Albany  we  would,  for  the  bene- 
fit of  those  who  purpose  visiting  Lake  George  and  its 
surroundings,  say  that  at  a  distance  of  16  miles  beyond 
Saratoga  is  Fort  Edward  Station,  where  a  branch  line 
runs  up  to  the  picturesque  village  of  Glen's  Falls.  From 
which  the  tourist  can  continue  his  journey  to  Lake 
George,  thirty-six  miles  in  length  with  an  elevation  of 
three  hundred  and  twenty  feet  above  the  sea,  dotted  over 
with  verdant  islands,  and  lined  with  elegant  villas,  and 
affording  some  of  the  most  beautiful  and  romantic 
scenery  imaginable.  This  charming,  peaceful  locality 
was  the  scene  of  many  thrilling  events  during  the  early 
Indians  wars,  and  the  war  of  the  revolution  ;  and  at  either 
end  is  situated  Ticonderoga  and  Fort  William  Henry, 
near  the  ruins  of  the  latter  of  which  stands  the  Fort 
William  Henry  Hotel,  a  spacious  and  beautiful  house 
containing  accommodation  for  over  1,000  guests ;  its 
grounds  are  laid  out  with  great  elegance,  and  a  fine  view 
Off  the  southern  end  of  the  lake  is  obtained  therefrom. 


All-Routtd  Route  attd  Panoramic  Guide*        105 

The  Hotel  is  owned  by  Messrs.  T.  Roessle  &  Son, 
of  the  Delavan  House,  Albany,  and  the  Arlington  at 
Washington,  D.  C.^  also  its  managers. 


FORT  EDWARD.— SANDY   HILL.— GLEN'S 

FALLS. 

jEAVING  Saratoga  for  the  north,  the  first  station 
reached  is  Gansevoort,  named  so  after  Col. 
Peter  Gansevoort  of  Albany,  who  in  the 
Revolutionary  War  distinguished  himself  by  his  gallant 
defence  of  Fort  Oriskany,  and  who  resided  here  when 
the  war  was  over.  The  village  stands  upcfti  the 
Snookkill.  It  is  situated  in  the  town  named  after  the 
French  General,  Moreau. 

Fort  Edward.— The  first  mention  of  Fort  Edward 
in  history  appears  in  1690.  In  July  of  this  year,  Gen. 
Fitz  John  Winthrop,  in  command  of  seven  hundred 
troops,  set  forward  from  Albany  for  the  conquest  of 
Canada.  They  reached  this,  the  Great  Carrying  Place, 
on  the  5th  of  August,  the  soldiers  having  marched  up 
with  their  provisions  and  horses,  the  Dutch  militia  com- 
ing up  the  river  in  their  canoes.  The  next  day  they 
marched  twelve  miles  through  a  continuous  swamp, 
abounding  in  white  pine,  to  the  falls  on  Wood  Creek 
(Fort  Ann),  carrying  their  provisions  and  canoes  upon 
their  backs.  On  the  7th  the  general  passed  down  the 
creek  with  the  soldiers  in  their  bark  canoes,  flanked  by 
the  Indians,  to  the  Hautkill  (Whitehall),  where  he  en- 
camped. 

Sandy  Hill. — Two  miles  from  Fort  Edward,  on  the 
route  to  Lake  George,  is  Sandy  Hill.  This  is  a  village  of 
about  twenty-five  hundred  inhabitants.     It  is  sittiated  on 


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1 06       All' Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

elevated  ground,  and  has  a  handsome  public  square, 
filled  with  shade  trees.  Baker's  Falls  presents  a 
beautiful  view.  Across  the  Hudson,  above  the  falls,  is 
a  dam  twelve  hundred  feet  long,  which  gives  additional 
power  for  mills  and  machinery.  The  town  was  the  scene 
of  numerous  adventures  during  the  French  and 
Revolutionary  Wars. 

Glen's  Falls. — This  beautiful  town  contains  a  popu- 
lation of  between  seven  and  eight  thousand.  It  is  at  the 
former  termination  of  a  branch  of  the  Delaware  and 
Hudson  Railroad,  which  have  this  season  completed 
their  line  through  to  Caldwell,  to  obviate  staging  as 
formerly.  The  place  is  situated  upon  the  celebrated  falls 
of  the  same  name.  Their  descent  has  been  ascertained 
by  measurement  to  be  sixty-three  feet.  The  water  of  the 
Hudson  flows  in  one  sheet  over  a  single  dam  at  the  brink 
of  the  precipice,  but  is  immediately  divided  into  three 
channels.  Here  it  takes  a  succession  of  leaps  over  the 
ragged  rocks,  amid  which  it  boils,  foams,  spurts,  and 
thunders,  till,  passing  under  the  bridge,  and  through  an 
angular  length  of  seven  hundred  or  eight  hundred  feet, 
it  emerges  into  smooth  water.  On  the  island,  which  is 
formed  of  black  marble,  is  a  long  cave,  extending  from 
one  channel  to  the  other.  This  is  known  as  Cooper's 
Cave,  from  the  fact  that  a  thrilling  scene  in  Fenimore 
Cooper's  "  Last  of  the  Mohicans,"  is  laid  there.  On  the 
walls  are  inscribed  the  names  of  former  visitors.  The 
rocks  at  some  seasons  are  entirely  bare,  and  at  others  are 
covered  with  water.  They  are  checked  with  small 
indentations,  and  in  many  places  considerable  chasms 
are  formed  by  pebbles  kept  in  motion  by  the  falling 
water. 


AlURound  Route  atid  Panoramic  Guide,        107 


The  celebi  ted  Glen's  Falls  black  marble  is  here  quar- 
ried, sawed,  and  polished  for  market.  Enormous  quan- 
tities of  the  limestone  are  excavated  for  the  purpose  ol 
being  converted  into  jointa  lime.  Along  the  banks  on 
each  side  are  the  finest  saw-mills  on  the  continent, — 
whose  hundreds  of  saws  are  under  a  single  roof, — which 
run  by  night  and  by  day,  converting  a  steady  stream  of 
logs  into  lumber,  laying  the  whole  North  Woods  under 
contribution,  and  affording  employment  to  hundreds  of 
operatives.  Below  are  huge  paper  and  flouring  mills. 
Two  miles  above  the  falls  is  the  State  dam,  a  new 
and  costly  structure,  which  is  also  the  head  of  the  Glens 
Falls  feeder.  At  this  place  are  extensive  saw-mills. 
Beyond  and  above  this  is  the  big  boom,  built  and  main- 
tained at  a  cost  of  thousands  of  dollars,  and  which  is  cap- 
able of  holding  a  million  logs.  No  tourist  who  can  spare 
the  time  should  omit  taking  the  delightful  drive. 

From  here  to  Fort  Edward  is  a  distance  of  six  miles, 
where  may  be  witnessed  a  succession  of  waterfalls,  equal, 
in  the  aggregate,  to  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet.  A  po- 
pulation of  fifteen  thousand  dwells  upon  its  banks.  A 
canal,  railroads,  and  telegraph  furnish  the  modern  appli- 
ances for  ready  business  ;  schools,  academies,  and 
churches  abound,  and  sumptuous  private  residences  at- 
test the  wealth  of  the  people.  Here  is  located  the  well- 
known  Glen  Falls  Insurance  Company,  one  of  the  best 
managed  institutions  in  the  country. 

Spacious  stores  invite  custom  for  an  area  of  many  miles. 
The  village  is  lit  by  gas  ;  and  water  is,  at  great  expense, 
brought  for  five  miles  from  the  Luzerne  Mountain. 

The  Rockwell  House,  kept  by  LeRoy  Rockwell,  has 
been  rebuilt  on  the  site  of  a  former  hotel,  and  has  accom- 


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1 08        All- Round  Route  afid  Panoramic  Guide, 

modation  for  one  hundred  people,  and  it  will  afiford  a 
grateful  summer  retreat  to  those  tired  denizens  of  the 
city  who  seek  the  charms  of  a  country  village. 

LAKE  GEORGE. 

HE  route  from  Glen's  Falls  to  Lake  George,  now 
^     by  rail  instead  of  by  stage,  passes  through  most 


beautiful  scenery.  Below  Brown's  Half  Way 
House  was  a  stockade  fort,  built  by  Major  West,  with 
two  moats  and  a  bastion.  A  mile  beyond  was  an 
intrenchment  built  by  Col.  Foster  in  the  same  cam- 
paign. These  were  intended  to  protect  the  passage 
of  supplies  fron^  the  incursions  of  the  Indians  and 
French.  I 

July  30,  1858,  a  train  of  fifty-four  wagons,  loaded  with 
commissary  stores,  and  guarded  by  a  lieutenant  and  forty 
men,  was  leisurely  proceeding  to  Lake  George,  accom- 
panied by  settlers,  traders,  women  and  children.  They 
were  attacked  by  La  Corne,  commanding  a  body  of  four 
hundred  French  and  Indians,  who  pillaged  and  burnt  the 
wagons,  secured  a  hundred  and  ten  scalps,  and  took 
eighty-four  prisoners. 

Just  beyond  the  toll-gate  is  the  monument  erected  to 
the  memory  of  Col.  Ephraim  Williams,  by  the  graduates 
of  Williams  College,  of  which  institution  he  was  the 
founder.  Col.  Williams  was  killed  at  the  battle  of  Lake 
George,  which  occurred  in  1755.  Farther  on  we  come 
to  Bloody  Fond,  so  named  because  the  waters  of  Rocky 
Brook,  its  outlet,  were,  at  the  above-named  time,  crim- 
soned with  the  blood  of  the  wounded  and  dead  upon  its 
banks.  A  mile  beyond  this  we  obtain  a  surpassingly 
beautiful  view  of  the  lake,  and,  descending  the  hill,  we 
soon  arrive  at  the  village  of  Caldwell. 


All' Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        109 

Lake  George,  called  by  the  Frcncli  ••  Lac  St.  Sacra- 
ment," was  discovered  by  Fatht  r  Jacques,  who  passed 
through  it  in  1645,  on  his  way  to  the  Iroquois  Nation, 
by  whom  he  was  afterward  tortured  and  burned.  It  is 
thirty-six  miles  long  by  three  miles  broad.  Its  elevation 
is  two  hundred  and  forty-three  feet  above  the  sea.  The 
waters  are  of  remarkable  transparency  ;  romantic  islands 
dot  its  surface,  and  elegant  villas  are  erected  upon  its 
shores.  It  is  one  of  the  finest  sheets  of  water  in  the 
world. 

But  not  the  unrivalled  scenery,  nor  the  pellucid  water, 
nor  the  ceaseless  play  of  light  and  shade  upon  the  rock- 
bound  islands  and  mountains,  can  for  a  moment  eqnal 
the  intense  absorbing  interest  excited  by  the  historic 
legends  of  this  memorable  locality.  They  are  inter- 
woven with  much  of  the  early  history  of  our  Continent, 
and  reach  back  to  the  time  when  truth  vanishes  into 
tradition. 

Few,  if  any,  among  the  picturesque  lakes  in  America 
are  more  beautiful  or  more  celebrated  than  this  lake, 
which  lies  between  the  counties  of  Washington  and 
Warren,  in  the  State  of  New  York,  and  is  thirty-six 
miles  long,  varying  in  breadth  from  three-quarters  of  a 
mile  to  four  miles,  and  in  many  places  is  four  hundred 
feet  in  depth.  It  is  in  the  midst  of  mountains,  and 
popular  belief  credits  it  with  islands  equal  in  number  to 
the  days  of  the  year.  History  as  well  as  tradition 
lingers  around  it,  marking  many  spots  with  more  than 
ordinary  interest.  Not  the  least  among  these  are  the 
ruins  of  Fort  William  Henry  and  Fort  George.  The 
lake  has  had  many  names  conferred  upon  it,  both  by 
Indians  and  white  men.  The  former  generally  called 
it  Lake  Horicon ;  the  French  named  it  La  Lac  du  St 


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1 10       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

Sacrament,  and  were  in  the  habit  of  carrying  its  remark- 
ably pure  water  many  miles  for  baptismal  purposes. 
Sir  William  Johson,  prompted  by  his  loyalty,  named  it 
Lake  George,  after  one  of  the  Georges  of  Great  Britain, 
and  his  title  has  been  permitted  to  remain  as  its 
designation,  although  it  cannot  justly  be  considered 
appropriate  or  elegant.  A  writer,  describing  the  many 
attractions  of  the  lake,  says: — "It  has  something  of 
interest  for  everyone — the  lover  of  history,  of  romance, 
of  beauty,  and  lovers  generally. 

The  ruins  of  Fort  George  lie  to  the  east  of  Fort 
William  Henry  Hotel.  All  that  now  remains  of  this 
"  relic  of  heroic  deeds  "  is  the  ruins  of  the  rectangular 
citadel  that  stood  within  the  fortifications.  A  walk 
leads  from  the  Hotel  around  the  foot  of  Rattlesnake 
Hill  and  upward  to  its  summit,  from  whence  a  fine  view 
can  be  obtained.  A  fine  livery  is  kept  for  the  purpose 
of  enjoying  the  many  delightful  drives  in  the  vicinity, 
and  conveyances  have  been  specially  constructed 
for  the  purpose  of  ascending  to  Prospect  Mountain 
House.  The  view  from  this  point  is  unsurpassed. 
Within  view  are  five  lakes,  with  Champlain  over 
a  hundred  miles  distant,  the  Green  Mountains,  the 
A(]irondacks,  the  Catskills,  the  Hudson  river,  with  the 
Crane  Mountains  to  the  south-west.  A  fine  view  of 
Lake  George,  with  its  numerous  islands,  bays,  hotels 
and  villas,  is  also  obtained.  General  Sherman  during 
his  visit  to  Fort  William  Henry  and  Lake  George, 
pronounced  it  the  finest  watering-place  in  the  world. 

We  now  return  to  Albany,  whence  we  diverged,  and 
proceed  to  take  our  tourist  to  Montreal  by  the  round- 
about but  interesting  route  via  Niagara. 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Gmae,         1 1 1 

ALBANY. 

JLBANY  is  the  capital  of  the  state  of  New  York, 
and  was  first  settled  in  1612  and  became  the 
^^  State  capital  in  1798.  Great  taste  has  been 
displayed  in  the  construction  of  its  public  and  private 
buildings.  Among  these  may  be  noted  the  New 
Capitol,  located  just  in  the  rear  of  the  old  Capitol ;  and 
its  grounds  include  the  site  of  the  old  building,  and  the 
old  Capitol  park. 

The  Capitol  has  a  frontage  of  three  hundred  feet. 
The  style  of  the  building  is  Renaissance,  being  the  same 
as  that  of  the  Pavilion  of  the  new  Louvre,  or  the  Hotel 
de  Ville  in  Paris.  Without  any  servile  imitation,  the 
architects  have  produced  a  result  which,  in  its  bold, 
effective  spirit,  marks  the  most  advanced  example  of 
modern  architecture. 

It  was  built  upon  a  foundation  of  concrete,  extending 
under  the  whole  building,  and  to  a  depth  of  from  three 
to  twenty-five  feet.  The  treacherous  nature  of  the  soil 
made  the  cost  of  the  foundation  very  expensive. 

The  outside  walls  are  of  Maine  granite ;  and  the  inner 
walls  and  courts  of  New-Hampshire  granite,  which  is  of 
a  lighter  shade  than  the  former.  The  structure  will  be 
fire-proof,  and  covers  three  and  one- half  acres  of  ground. 

Approaching  the  building  by  the  front  entrance,  the 
main  hall,  sixty  by  seventy-four  feet,  is  reached :  from 
this  extending  to  the  upper  floors,  are  two  grand  sand- 
stone staircases,  one  of  which  is  completed.  At  the  left 
of  the  entrance  are  the  offices  of  the  Governor,  and 
Adjutant  General;  at  the  right,  the  offices  of  the 
Secretary  of  Appeal  room,  which,  with  its  oaken  ceiling 


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112       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 

supported  by  g'ranite  columns,  reminds  one  of  West- 
minster Hall.  On  the  floor  above,  the  State  Library, 
occupying  a  room  two  hundred  and  eighty-three  feet 
long  by  fifty-four  feet  deep.  The  Assembly  Chamber,  a 
room  one  hundred  and  forty  feet  long  by  eighty-five 
wide.  The  ceiling  is  on  solid  sandstone,  supported  by 
four  massive  columns  of  polished  Connecticut  granite. 
High  up  at  each  end  are  frescoes  executed  by  the  artist 
Hunt,  at  a  great  cost,  and  said  to  be  very  fine  works  of 
art. 

The  Senate  Chamber  is  also  on  this  floor,  and  is  a 
room  fifty-eight  feet  square,  with  galleries  on  two  sides. 
The  ceiling  is  of  carved  oak.  The  building  of  the  new 
Capitol  has  called  forth  criticism  from  all  sides,  both  in 
favor  of,  and  against  the  style  and  expenditure  involved ; 
but,  as  the  work  approaches  completion,  it  is  generally 
conceded  that  good  judgment  has  been  used,  and  that 
the  Empire  State  will  have  a  Capitol  building  that  will 
be  commensurate  with  its  own  importance. 

The  Dudley  Observatory,  founded  by  Mrs. 
Blandina  Dudley,  who  gave  ninety  thousand  dollars  for 
its  construction  and  endowment,  was  incorporated  in 
1852.  It  is  situated  on  an  eminence  in  the  northern 
border  of  the  city,  and  is  supplied  with  some  of  the 
largest  and  finest  instruments  ever  invented.  Exact 
time  is  furnished  every  day  to  all  parts  of  the  State. 

Water  is  supplied  to  the  city  from  Rensselaer  Lake, 
five  miles  out,  which  is  two  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet 
above  tide-water.  Spanning  the  river  are  two  magnificent 
railroad-bridges,  each  over  one-half  a  mile  in  length. 
The  superstructures  are  of  iron,  upon  which  are  laid 
double  tracks. 


All'Roiifid  Route  attd  Panoramic  Guide,        113 

The  Park  is  a  charming  place  of  resort.  It  contains  • 
forty-five  acres,  has  a  miniature  lake,  tasteful  bridges, 
parterres,  buildings,  walks,  and  shaded  drives.  It  was 
laid  out  according  to  designs  furnished  by  Olmstead  and 
Taux.  It  is  soon  to  be  embellished  with  a  fountain,  at 
a  cost  of  twenty  thousand  dollars,  the  gift  of  the  late  Col. 
Henry  L.  King. 

The  Protestant  Episcopal  Cathedral  of  All 
Saints  is  upon  Elk  Street,  and  is  designed  to  be  the 
bishop's  church,  as  well  as  the  head  of  church-work  in 
the  diocese  of  Albany.  Connected  with  it  is  St.  Agnes 
Boarding  and  Day  School  for  girls,  a  very  picturesque 
building  in  Old  English  style.  It  is  a  prosperous  insti- 
tution, with  two  hundred  and  ten  scholars,  and  twenty- 
five  teachers. 

Adjacent  to  these  two  will  be  found  the  Child's  Hospi- 
tal, which  contains  forty  patients  admitted  free.  It  is 
supported  entirely  by  benevolence,  under  the  care  of  the 
sisterhood  of  the  diocese,  and  is  managed  by  a  committee 
of  ladies,  with  the  bishop  as  president. 

The  University  of  Albany  has  attached  to  it  a 
Law  School  and  a  Medical  College,  both  of  which  are 
well  equipped  for  teaching  these  sciences. 

In  addition  to  the  foregoing  may  be  mentioned  the 
following  churches  and  public  buildings  as  worthy  a  visit 
from  the  tourist :  the  Cathedral  (Catholic),  St.  Joseph's 
(Catholic)  Church,  St.  Peter's  (Episcopal)  Church,  Taber- 
nacle, Baptist  Church,  State  Hall,  Geological  Hall, 
State  Library,  City  Hall,  and  other  buildings  well  worthy 
of  notice.  The  new  State  Capitol  is  a  magnificent 
structure ;  the  view  from  it  is  very  fine,  as  the  whole  of 
the  city,  and  a  large  tract  of  the  surrounding  country 
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114       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 

can  be  seen  from  this  eminence.  Those  of  our  travelers 
who  wish  to  take  things  easily  will  find  themselves  very 
comfortably  put  up  at  either  of  its  celebrated  hotels, 
which  have  earned  for  themselves  a  world-wide  reputa- 
tion for  being  among  the  best  managed  houses  in  the 
State.  These  are  the  well-known  Delavan  and  the  new 
and  complete  Kenmore.  Tourists  can  then  take  the 
train  on  the  New  York  Central  Railway,  for  Utica,  en 

route  to 

TRENTON  FALLS. 

As  these  Falls  lie  only  about  seventeen  miles  off  the 
line  of  railway,  with  a  branch  railroad  running  up  to 
them,  they  ougl^t  not  to  be  passed  without  a  visit.  We 
will,  therefore,  take  our  seats  in  the  cars  at  Albany,  by 
the  morning  train,  change  at  Utica,  and  there  take  the 
well-equipped  train  of  the  Utica  &  Black  River 
Railv^AY  which  connects  with  this  train,  and  brings  us 
to  the  Trenton  Falls  Station  a  little  after  noon.  The 
river  forming  the  Trenton  Falls  is  called  the  West  Canada 
Creek,  but  as  this  name  is  not  euphonious,  the  Falls 
have  been  named  after  the  town  or  parish  in  which  they 
are  situated.  There  is  no  special  cataract  at  Trenton 
which  in  itself  is  pre-eminently  grand  or  beautiful.  It  is 
more  the  position,  form  and  rapidity  of  the  river  which 
give  the  charm,  and  make  it  considered  by  many  as  one 
of  the  most  picturesque  and  lovely  spots  on  the  continent. 
The  stream  descends  123  feet  in  two  miles  by  a  series  of 
falls  of  great  beauty.  As  the  usual  passage  for  tourists 
is  along  the  bed  of  the  river  itself,  it  can  be  understood 
that  to  see  these  falls  aright  there  must  not  be  too  much 
water.  The  end  of  J  uly,  or  the  commencement  of  August, 
is  the  time  to  see  them  in  their  beauty.     In  order  to 


'  1 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        115 


«<i. 


justify  their  name,  there  are  two  actual  waterfalls  here, 
which  are  within  a  few  hours'  journey  from  Niagara,  and 
seen  after  that  mightiest  of  all  cataracts,  would  appear 
as  trifles,  but  when  taken  on  one's  way  to  the  Falls,  and 
viewed  in  connection  with  the  surrounding  scenery,  are 
well  worthy  of  the  visit  we  propose  to  make.  The  banks 
of  the  river  are  thickly  wooded  on  each  side,  with  broken 
clefts  here  and  there,  through  which  the  colors  of  the 
foliage  show  themselves,  and  straggling  boughs  and 
rough  roots  break  through  the  high  rocks,  and  add  to 
the  wild  charm  of  the  scene. 

The  tourist  should  not  leave  without  visiting  the 
"  Lover's  Walk,  "  a  beautiful  avenue  of  hemlocks,  near 
the  hotel.  Bridal  parties  who  go  to  Niagara,  generally 
make  Trenton  one  of  the  stopping-places  on  their  wedding 
tour.  Could  these  fine  old  trees,  which  line  the  walk, 
speak  forth  and  proclaim  the  scenes  which  have  been 
witnessed  beneath  their  shade,  the  tale  would  recall  to 
many  a  personal  and  pleasing  experience.  The  shadowy 
walk  is  certainly  well  adapted  to  the  tender  mood  in 
which  lovers  are  prone  to  indulge. 

A  comfortable  hotel  is  situated  in  the  village,  where 
travelers  can  get  all  their  wants  supplied,  and  then  take 
the  cars  back  to  Utica,  where  they  can  again  join  the 
New  York  Central  line,  and  proceed  via  Rome,  Syracuse, 
Rochester  and  Lockport,  on  their  way  to  Niagara.  As 
we  presume  that  this  journey  will  be  made  without  any 
stoppages,  we  shall  omit  all  these  places,  and  merely  say 
that  they  are  the  ordinary  specimens  of  American  towns 
and  cities  having  broad  streets,  avenues  of  trees,  large 
stores,  and  excellent  houses  with  an  air  of  prosperity 
about  the  whole  of  them. 


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Ii6       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

THE  NEW  YORK,  LAKE  ERIE  AND  WESTERN 

RAILWAY. 

THE  TOURIST'S  POPULAR  ROUTE  TO  NIAGARA  FALLS,  etc. 

O  all  those  who  desire  to  travel  from  New  York  to 
Elmira,  Watkin's  Glen,  Seneca  Lake,  Bufifalo  or 
Niagara  Falls,  via  the  ever  popular  New  York, 
Lake  Erie  and  Western  Railway,  whose  entire  equipment 
is  not  surpassed  by  any  line  of  travel  in  the  world,  we  can 
in  truth  recommend  this  route  as  a  very  desirable  one, 
both  for  the  elegant  and  sumptuous  Drawing-room  and 
Sleeping  coaches,  with  which  it  is  well  provided,  as  well 
as  the  grand  and  picturesque  scenery  through  which  the 
New  York,  Lake  Erie  and  Western  Railway  passes.     The 
above  railway  is  one  of  the  greatest  triumphs  of  engin- 
eering skill  in  this  or  any  other  country,  and  affords  some 
of  the  grandest  and  most  varied  scenery  to  be  found  in 
America.     Previous  to  its  construction,  portions  of  the 
line  were  considered   impassable  to  any  other  than  a 
winged  creature,  yet  mountains  were  scaled  or  pierced, 
and  river  canons  passed,  by  blasting  a  path  from  the 
face  of  stupendous  precipices  ;   gorges  of  fearful  depth 
were  spanned  by  bridges  swung  into  the  air,  and  broad, 
deep  valleys  crossed  by  massive  viaducts.     'Y!.\i\s  favorite 
line  was  begun  in  1836  and  completed  in  185 1,  and  has 
cost  to  date  upward  of  $60,000,000.     Splendid  Palace, 
Drawing-room  and  Sleeping  cars  are  attached  to  all  the 
through  trains  east  or  west.     Many   of  the   attractive 
points  of  interest  to  be  seen  along  the  line  of  the  New 
York,  Lake  Erie   and   Western    Railway   are   each   of 
sufficient  beauty  to  repay  the  tourist  for  the  journey  over 


I 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       WJ 

the  whole  line.  The  beautiful  valley  of  the  Delaware, 
the  gorgeous  Susquehanna,  and  the  wonderful  and 
charming  Wyoming  valley,  all  present  a  picture  to  the 
tourist  of  unrivalled  interest.  Portage^  on  the  direct  line 
to  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls,  is  celebrated  for  its  Wooden 
Trestle  Bridge,  the  largest  structure  of  the  kind  in  the 
world,  being  800  feet  long  by  234  feet  in  height,  sustained 
by  13  stone  piers  spanning  the  Genesee  River.  Its  cost 
was  over  $  1 74,000.  Some  conception  of  its  magnitude 
may  be  formed  when  it  is  known  that  in  its  construction 
1,600,000  feet  of  timber,  and  106,820  lbs.  of  iron  were 
used,  and  the  design  and  architecture  such,  that,  while 
undergoing  repairs,  any  portion  of  it  may  be  removed, 
without  weakening  the  structure,  or  retarding,  or  inter- 
fering with  the  progress  of  trains. 

It  is  here  also  that  the  Genesee  River  enters  a  grand 
rocky  defile,  presenting,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  a 
succession  of  wild  and  varied  scenery.  The  Upper 
Falls — ^just  below  the  bridge — have  a  descent  of  68  feet, 
making  the  distance  from  the  top  of  the  Bridge  to  the 
bottom  of  the  Falls  302  feet.  At  the  Middle  Falls,  one 
quarter  of  a  mile  beyond — the  water  dashes  in  an 
unbroken  sheet  into  a  chasm  no  feet  in  depth,  bounded 
on  either  side  by  perpendicular  ledges.  The  action  of 
the  water  has  formed  a  hollow  in  the  rock,  known  as  the 
Devil's  Oven.  The  Lower  Falls  are  a  mile  and  a  half 
from  the  Bridge,  and  it  is  here  the  scenery  is  most 
sublime.  At  this  point  the  river,  after  a  precipitous 
course  of  nearly  one-fourth  of  a  mile,  descends  20  feet, 
and  striking  the  base  of  Sugar  Loaf  Rock,  which  rises 
100  feet  from  the  bed  of  the  river,  turns  at  a  right  angle 
and  falls  into  a  deep  pool.     The  rapidity  of  the  water  at 


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this  point  and  the  great  height  of  the  rocky  blufifs  which 
skirt  the  river,  lend  enchantment  to  the  scene. 

To  quote  from  an  eminent  author :  "If  the  Portage 
of  Genesee  Falls  were  in  Yosemite  Valley,  or  among  the 
Alps,  instead  of  twelve  hours  from  New  York,  they 
would  be  visited  and  painted,  and  photographed,  and 
written  of  a  great  deal  more." 

At  Portage  Bridge  there  is  a  fine  hotel,  capacious  and 
furnished  throughout  in  modern  style. 

At  Elmira,  573  miles  west  from  New  York,  passengers 
for  Watkin's  Glen  and  Seneca  Lake,  will  change  cars, 
where  they  will  find  the  finely  equipped  trains  of  the 
Northern  Central  Railway  in  readiness  to  convey  them 
to  Watkins,  only  twenty-two  miles. 

Watkins  Glen  is  situated  about  half  a  mile  from  the 
head  of  the  beautiful  Seneca  Lake,  in  the  county  of 
Schuyler,  in  the  midst  of  beautiful  scenery.  The  lake 
close  to  which  it  is  situated  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
sheets  of  water  in  America,  or  in  the  world.  It  is  forty 
miles  in  length,  and  has  an  average  width  of  two  miles. 
At  the  lower  or  northern  end  the  shores  recede  gradually 
from  the  water,  and  the  country  on  all  sides  seems  a 
garden  dotted  everywhere  with  fine  buildings,  and 
presenting  all  the  appearance  of  wealth.  At  the  upper 
or  southern  end  the  banks  are  less  gradual  in  their 
incline,  and  in  a  few  places  wooded  cliffs  rise 'directly 
from  the  water.  The  lake  presents,  in  fact,  almost 
every  variety  of  scenery.  Steamboats  ply  at  frequent 
intervals,  landing  at  many  places  on  the  shores,  and  at 
the  different  stopping-places,  boats  and  every  facility  for 
fishing  may  be  had. 

The  glen,  which  for  the  last  few  years  has  been  resorted 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,  9 

to  by  great  numbers  of  visitors,  is  about  half  a  mile  from 
the  steamboat  landing  and  the  railway  station.     It  is  a 
deep  and  rocky  ravine   between   two   hills   which   are 
clothed    with  foliage,  the  tops  of  the  trees  frequently 
meeting  at  the  top  of  the  deep  gorge.     A  small  stream 
runs  through  it,  forming  frequent  waterfalls,  and  adding 
a  great  charm  to  the  place.     The  length  of  the  glen  is 
about  two  miles,  and  everywhere  good  paths  and  secure 
railings  have  been  arranged,  so  that  one  may  visit  every 
part  without  danger.     The  dififerent  points  worthy  of 
note  are  as  follows  :     Passing  the  entrance  amphitheatre 
and    ascending   the   first   stairs,    we   see   the   Entrance 
Cascade,  60  ft.  in  height.     From  the  first  bridge,  called 
Sentry  Bridge,  we  have  a   view  eastward  over  the  wide 
valley  at  the  head  of  the  lake,  and  of  the  wooded  heights 
beyond ;  and  westward,  up  the  glen,  of  the  high  cliffs 
which  bound   it  at  the   sides.      Passing  along  a  path 
overlooking  Stilhvater  Gorge,  we  soon  see  the  Minnefiaha 
Cascade,     This  part  of  the  gorge  is  called    Glen  Alpha, 
We  now  cross  and  recross  the  gorge,  pass  the  Labyrinth 
and  ascend    the  Long   Staircase,  50  ft.  high,  and   see 
before  us  Cavern  Cascade,  with  a  fall  of  40  ft.     One  may 
enter  the  Grotto  behind  the  cascade.     Pursuing  our  way 
we  enter  at  the  head  of  the  Long  Staircase,  Glen  Obscura, 
and  follow  the  path  to  Point  Look  Off.     From  this  spot 
we  look  back  into  Glen  Alpha,  and  above,  in  the  opposite 
direction,  we  see  the  Glen  Mountain  House,  100  ft.  above 
us.      The  hotel  has  two  buildings  ;  one  occupied   for 
sleeping  apartments,  parlors,  &c.,  and   the  other,  across 
the  glen,  used  as  a  dining-room.     The  two  are  connected 
by  a  handsome  suspension  bridge.     Close  to  the  hotel  is 
the  Art  Gallery  (entrance  fee,  25  cents),  passing  which 


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120        Alf'Round  Route  atid  Panoramic  Guide, 

we  soon  see  the  Mystic  Gorge  of  Glen  Obscura.  We 
now  descend  to  the  bridge  which  crosses  the  Sylvan 
Rapids  and  enter  Glen  Cathedral,  the  rocky  sides  of 
which  are  300  ft  high.  The  length  of  this  glen  is  300 
yards.  In  the  centre  is  the  beautiful  Pool  of  tfie  Nymphs, 
In  what  is  called  the  Chancel  is  Central  Cascade,  falling 
50  ft  into  a  deep  pool.  Mounting  the  grand  staircase 
we  enter  the  Glen  of  the  Pools.  The  .scenery  of  this  part 
of  the  glen  is  very  beautiful,  the  view  from  the  bridge, 
crossed  soon  after  entering  the  Glen  of  the  Pools,  has 
received  the  appellation  of  Matchless  Scene.  We  soon 
enter  the  Giant's  Gorge  and  see  Triple  Cascade  aiid 
Rainbow  Falls,  the  former  being  made  by  the  falling  of 
the  brook  from  Glen  Difficulty,  the  other  by  a  small 
stream  from  the  south  falling  over  the  rocks  into  the 
glen.  We  ascend  Platform  Stairs  and  enter  Glen 
Difficulty,  pass  Shadow  Gorge,  cross  another  bridge,  and, 
traversing  the  Narrow  Path  to  the  end  of  Glen  Difficulty, 
see  Pluto  Falls.  Another  stair  leads  to  Glen  Arcadia, 
which  is  crossed  to  Arcadian  Falls.  There  are  other 
glens  and  waterfalls  above  this  point  easily  visited,  but 
of  no  special  interest.  '     '         ^  •  \  -> 

The  beauties  of  this  remarkable  gorge  and  of  the 
surrounding  region  have  been  much  discussed  during 
the  last  few  years,  and  great  numbers  of  summer  visitors 
throng  the  excellent  hotels  in  the  vicinity.   '      ' 

Grace  Greenwood  says  of  the  Glen :  "  It  is  a 
marvellous  rift  in  the  mountain,  which  it  seems  must 
have  been  made  by  some  stupendous  earthquake  shock. 
It  suggests  Vaucluse  in  the  pellucid  clearness  and 
sparkle  of  the  water.  It  faintly  suggests  the  sombre, 
magnificent  Pass  of  the  Finstermunz,  in  the  Tyrol,  but  is 


W''r- 


All-Round  Route  afid  Panoramic  Guide,        I2I 


infinitely  brighter  and  more  varied.  It  suggests  Trenton 
Falls,  but  is  wilder  and  deeper.  Most  of  all,  it  suggests 
Bash-Bish,  in  old  Berkshire, — is  indeed  very  like  it,  but 
is  yet  more  picturesque  and  perilous." 

Bayard  Taylor  says  of  it :  "  In  all  my  travels  I  have 
never  met  with  scenery  more  beautiful  and  romantic 
than  that  embraced  in  this  wonderful  glen ;  and  the 
most  remarkable  thing  of  all  is,  that  so  much 
magnificence  and  grandeur  should  be  found  in  a  region 
where  there  are  no  ranges  of  mountains." 

The  Glen  is  one  of  nature's  reservoirs  of  eternal 
coolness.  In  its  shadowy  recesses,  beside  its  emerald 
waters,  you  forget  even  the  fierce  heat  of  July  and 
August,  hundreds  of  feet  above  you.  But  it  is  seen  in 
its  utmost  beauty  in  October,  when  the  wild  gorge,  with 
its  wonderful  variety  of  delicate  foliage,  is  trimmed  with 
the  most  gorgeous  colors. 

HAVANA  GLEN. 

lAVANA  GLEN  is  located  near  the  People's 
College  Building,  (now  known  as  the  Cook 
Academy,)  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  village  of 
Havana,  one  mile  east  of  the  Northern  Central  depot, 
and  three  and  a  half  miles  from  Watkin's  Glen.  Its 
course  is  nearly  east  and  west,  the  ascent  being  towards 
the  east,  as  it  is  on  that  side  of  the  valley.  It  differs 
very  materially  from  the  Watkin's  Glen  in  the  details  of 
its  scenery,  and  yet  in  generalities,  is  almost  a  counter- 
part of  its  scenic  sister  on  the  west  side  of  Seneca  valley. 
In  approaching  it  you  pass  through  a  vast  and 
beautiful  amphitheatre  of  thirty  or  forty  acres,  filled  with 
groves  and   cosy   picnic   grounds ;    and   many   of  the 


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122        All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

gorges  and  cascades  are  fully  equal  to — and  several  of 
them  superior — to  the  finest  found  in  Watkin's  Glen. 
It  is  not  so  long  as  Watkin's  Glen ;  but  its  views  are 
full  of  startling  and  absorbing  interest,  and  its  pools, 
instead  of  being  oval  or  round  like  those  at  Watkins, 
are  as  square  as  if  hewn  by  human  agency,  out  of  the 
stratified  rock.  Its  forests,  foliage  and  general  flora, 
including  the  mosses,  lichens  and  ferns,  are  much  like 
those  of  Watkins  Glen—  they  could  not  be  superior — 
and  the  universal  sentiment  of  tourists  is,  that  visitors 
should  by  all  means  see  and  explore  both. 

Some  of  the  principal  scenes  in  the  Havana  Glen  are 
known  as  "  Portal  Cascade,"  "  Eagle  Cliff  Falls,"  "  The 
Council  Chamber,"  "Curtain  Cascade,"  "Jacob's  Lad- 
der," "The  Bridal  Veil,"  "Hermit's  Gorge,"  "The 
Indian  Oven,"  "The  Mountain  Tunnel,"  "Whispering 
Falls,"  "Chaos  Gorge,"  "Echo Falls,"  "Fairies'  Cascade," 
"  Summit  Falls,"  etc. 

"  From  the  very  beginning  Havana  Glen  impresses 
the  visitor  as  having  a  character  of  its  own.  The  stream 
is  larger  than  that  of  Watkins  Glen.  The  rock  is  less 
shaley,  and  it  has  a  strongly  marked  system  of  rect- 
angular points  dividing  the  cliffs  into  square  towers  and 
buttresses.  When  a  portion  of  the  cliff  falls,  it  does  not 
leave  a  jagged  face  as  in  Watkins  Glen  ;  but  a  mural 
surface  as  smooth  and  even  as  a  fortress  wall,  giving  the 
sides  of  canons  the  appearance  of  great  diversity  and 
grand  simplicity.  The  eroding  current  follows  the  lines 
of  division,  zigzaging  at  right  angles  rather  than  curving 
after  the  fashion  of  ordinary  streams.  At  times,  as  in 
the  "  Council  Chamber,"  it  cuts  out  perfect  halls,  with 
square  corners  and  perpendicular  sides,  as  unlike  any- 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        123 

thing  in  Watkins  Glen  as  can  be  imagined.  The  walls 
are  lower  than  in  Watkins,  but  they  seem  higher  because 
of  their  cleaii-cut  faces.  In  Watkins  there  is  a  persistent 
sameness  in  diversity — a  monotony  of  fantastic  outline. 
Havana  has  a  statelier,  more  majestic  look.  Watkins 
confuses  while  it  amazes,  bewildering  by  its  multitude 
of  details,  infinitely  various  yet  constantly  similar. 
Havana  has  less  variety  and  greater  diversity — its  plan 
seeming  to  be  to  present  no  two  scenes  at  all  alike.  At 
times  the  cliff  gives  place  to  wooded  escarpments ; 
vegetation  creeps  down  into  the  gorge  and  throws  a 
net-work  of  beauty  and  grace — truly  glen-like — between 
two  spaces  of  precipitous  1  Jck.  The  falls  are  fewer  but 
in  the  main  more  massive,  and  the  pools  are  square- 
cornered  instead  of  oval.  In  short,  the  two  Glens  are 
not  rivals,  but  complements,  and  the  sight  of  one 
heightens  rather  than  lessens  the  enjoyment  of  the 
other."  There  are  efreshment  houses  at  and  near  the 
entrance  of  the  Havana  Glen,  and  three  good  hotels  in 
the  village — the  Montour  House,  which  is  in  size  and 
all  things  else  a  iirst-class  house,  and  the  Webster  House 
and  Central  Hotel,  which  are  smaller,  but  very  attractive 
and  nicely  conducted.  Carriages  will  convey  visitors  to 
and  from  the  depot  and  public  houses,  and  between  the 
two  Glens,  at  moderate  rates. 

SENECA  LAKE, 

Which  is  claimed  and  conceded  to  be  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  and  interesting  sheets  of  water  in  the  world,  is 
nearly  forty  miles  long,  from  two  to  four  miles  in  width, 
of  great  depth,  and  unrivalled  in  purity  and  clearness  by 
any  of  its  sister  lakes  in  Central  New  York.     Its  course 


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124        Ail-Round  Route  aiui  Panoramic  Guide, 


ii.^« 


is  nearly  north  and  south,  and  its  rising  slopes,  on  either 
side,  are  a  h'ving  panoramic  view  of  alternate  and  highly 
cultivated  fields,  orchards  and  vineyards,  forests  and 
village  scenes,  along  its  whole  length ;  which  in  summer, 
and  especially  when  the  golden  hues  of  harvest  time  are 
woven  into  the  magnificent  ground-work  of  changing 
green,  presents  a  double  picture  of  unequalled  and 
matchless  beauty.  This  remarkable  Lake  has  been 
sounded  to  the  depth  of  nearly  i,ooo  feet.  It  rarely 
freezes  in  winter,  and  its  steamboats  ply  between 
Watkins  and  Geneva,  located  at  its  northern  extremity, 
the  year  round.  Its  localities  of  interest,  aside  from 
Glens,  on  the  east  side,  are  Hector  Falls,  a  fine 
succession  of  cascades,  and  a  beautiful  point  for  pleasure 
parties,  three  miles  north  of  Watkins  ;  North  Hector 
point,  where  annual  camp-meetings  are  held,  usually  in 
June,  and  where  there  is  a  good  hotel  well  patronized  in 
the  summer  months ;  and  the  Willard  Asylum,  at  Ovid, 
for  the  insane  poor  of  the  State.  Geneva,  at  the  foot 
of  the  Lake,  is  an  attractive  place  in  summer  and  the 
seat  of  Hobart  College  and  its  Medical  and  Surgical 
Museum.  The  view  of  the  Lake  and  lis  eastern  shores 
from  College  Hill  is  one  of  the  finest  that  can  well  be 
imagined,  and  is  worth  going  miles  to  see. 

The  two  unopened  twin  Glens,  with  their  fine  cascades, 
at  Rock  Stream  and  Big  Streax^  i^me  six  or  eight  miles 
below  Watkins,  and  the  splendid  views  from  the  high- 
lands in  theii  vicinity,  are  features  well  worthy  of  atten- 
tion on  the  part  of  those  having  abundant  leisure  ;  while 
the  view  from  the  heights  of  Glenwood  Cemetery,  or 
Table  Mountain  as  it  was  formerly  called,  north  of  the 
Watkins   Glen,   is   unquestionably  the    grandest,   most 


v-i'lkr..  ,..«-Vf»-'.> 


1  ; 


\or antic  Guide,       125 
yi\  this  portion  of  the 

i 

==ion  of  Watkins  and 
nd    surroundings,    the 

Ex.Pro/«stor  <^  ^^Y  ^sn't  this  locality 
i  a  summer  vacation  ? " 

Prof.  Cltmib,  wost  delightful  and  in- 

Mineral  Waters  na       t         jj«i.*        a.      ^.i. 

of  this  ohronio  dUr      ^n  addition  to  tne 

containing  many  ot.  •.       i  j  .-r 

out  harm,  their  prcion,  it  abounds  With 
sons,  and  those  otb,      .  ,  . 

degenerate  changeth  have,  DV  years  of 
changes  are  oonsta  "^ 

useofthertronffertlient  healing  qualities. 

anylengthof  time  *=•  ^ 

^5i,?tim?)ri'h"aW  the  Erie  Railway  to 
iThiftSi&y'^hern  Central,  twenty 
ffl;  and  whffiatkins,  or  via  the  New 
peat  worSfffihe^fc  the  Northern  Central 

It  is  when  used  ooni,     ,  r      ^         ^ 

the  patient,  as  an  ajDut  we  prefer  to  return 

tiey  westward  via  the 

,v|  stern   Railway,  to  the 

And  t/i  which  is  the  "  Mecca  " 

,.w  hot  to  have  seen  is  his 

j  of  its  beauties  with  a 

jn  to  do  it  justice. 
A  Fbbnor  Aval  I 

A  correspondent  i?-*-"^^* 
cuesei  a  question  of' 

waters:—  ^g^jy  j^g  classed  among 

Yesterday's  jPvoh  They  are  the  pride  of 

which  is  now  actual^ ,  -.     t  i 

incoming  back  to  a  ideur,    magnitude    and 

papers  ought  not  to  ^,,      ,  .  °.       ,  ,  , 

commission  called 'ill  the  ClVlllzed  WOrld. 
Boutmy  and  LutaudT 

Lur«d.  Kpr«er|o"^e^^"l  cataract,  mil- 
t1?eTy  Jon&lW  countries  to  gaze  with 
Ac^^^y'iS&eln  the  tumultuous  fall  of 

Mr.  Wurts,  hasiusti  i  •     .  r    i.u 

unfortunately beyonf    and     majesty    01     the 

There  stands  now  t' 
made  by  eminent  ohtij 
than  160,000  siphons  i 
do  not  speak  about  m 
a  purity  which  it  woil 
siphons,  it  seems  moa 
they  do  no  good,  at  li 


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124       All-Routid  Routt 

is  nearly  north  and  soutl 
side,  are  a  living  panorai 
cultivated    fields,    orchai^ 


*«.«:.  t- 


village  scenes,  along  its  y    jf^^t  MEREDITH  CLYMEB,  M.D,. 

and  especially  when  the-  Practiw  qf  Medieitu  in  the  Univeraity  of  New  York,  k| 

woven   into  the   magnifi      eoneeming  CONGRESS  SPRING  WATER. 

green,    presents    a    doulritiiig  on  LitJumia  Uoid  Dyspepsia),  says :-"  Of  the  different! 
.11  v         i.  <^i  .medi  no  one  fulfils  as  well  BO  many  of  the  required  indidationHl 

matcniess     beauty.        1  n)rder  as  the  water  of  the  Oongress  Spring,  at  Saratoga.    WhI 
J    J     i.     ^1.       J      i-t.     ^thesaltsfoondinthismay,  sometimes,  be  used  in  like  oases  t 
sounded    to  the    depth    tlonifed  use  is  sure  to  be  attended  with  unpleasant  effects,  e\ 

^erwise  with  sound  organs,  on  account  of  their  harahneae  ;  but| 
freezes     in    winter,     and)  already  exist  in  the  Kidneys  and  other  organs,  and  in  old  pe 

i.ntly  present,  I  have  repeatedly  known  most  ditaatrout  consc^ 
W^atkins  and    Geneva,  loand  AinrsA  waters,  both  native  and  imported,  when  taken  inl 

.    In  an  experience  of  over  forty  years  with  tbe^Cqngress  S| 

the   year   round.     Its 
Glens,   on    the 


east 


1  iierfeot  in  its  chemical  cooatitution  and  in  its  remedial  propertJ 
not  known  a  single  instance  where,  when  used  in  suitable  c\ 
cjd  its  habitual  use  at  any  age.    This  harmlessness,  as  well  as  if 
^'attributed  to  the  happy  proportions  in  which  the  various  alM 
ciirrf»c«i'rKn  r»f  racraHf-«    „Milion,  and  which  are  so  potent  lorgood  in  thb  class  of  dil 
:3UL.^c&&ioii  ui  cd^^duc:),  dg  their  treatment  makes  Congress  Water /actte  jinncepH  anil 
*-¥la.    '  i-Ufo.      .v^ ;  1  i^o    «  r^t^  "  °®'  alouo  as  a  Gathartio  and  Laxative  that  the  Goufress  Si 
parties,  mree    miies    noroianagement  of  these  affections  (and  as  such  its  action  is  miidl 
.    .        V  1  Hnuously  and  in  less  quantity  that  we  derive  so  much  benefil 

point,  where  annual   canQterativeandregulatorof  the  digestive  functions." 

June,  and  where  there  is  


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the  summer  months ;  an        OPlJflOJ^S  OF  THE  PRESS, 

for  the  insane  r  >or  of  t,^^  ^^^  j^^^  ^^  ^^y  concerning  Mineral  Wa\ 

of  the  Lake,  is  an  attra<  rw  -o-  m  t,v        ,««oo,  , 

*  [N.  Y.  Tribukk,  February  13,51881.] 

seat  of  Hobart  College       important  to  mineral  water  drinkers. 

Museum.     The  view  of  I  

r  /-    11  TTM1    •  iTus  or  MimBAL  AND  Mancfaotubbd  Waters  AS  AmoTxl 

from  College  rlill  is  on<  with  Metaluo  Substakobs. 

imacrinpH    and  is  worth  da  Paris  has  sent  us  the  following  from  J%«  jPwaro  of  Nov.  21 
imaginea,  anu  is  woriii  gj^^^^  importance  to  both  manufacturers  and  consumers  of 

The  two  unopened  twi  ^jp^^  j^  ^^„^  ^^^^^^  a,  I88O.) 

at  Rock  Stream  and  Biglo  defended  the  artificial  Seltzer  water  against  some  aoousatj 

$y  being  examined  by  the  Academy  of  Science.    We  believe  C 

below  Watkins,  and   the  riuestion  the  gravity  of  which  is  plain  to  everybody.    We  thin 

ipronounoe  themselves  on  this  matter.    There  is  at  the  Acad 

lanHci  in  their  vicinitv   atf^^^  Insalubrious  Arts,"  which  is  now  examining  the  n 

lanas  m  uieir  vicinity,  ^^f.  naturally  it  is  thi«  commission  which  shall  judge  the  sipho 

*if\n  f\n  i-Vtf^  nart  rtf  fh nc A'^t^PP^BB'^  everybody  knows.     The  eminent  chemists,  Bon 
tion  on  me  part  01   Lnosq,jg^^^th^^^^g„,yj^^gjj^j,^jj.gpg^  .^  ^hich  these  gentlj 

4.U^  ir.'^^^mr  A-^m  fViA  Vi/>«<^tod  Bcvenil  samplcs  of  siphous  to  a ohomical  aoalysls,  thcj 
tne  view  irom  tne  neig^antitles  of  lead,  ammoniac  and  azotio  substances.  Theyh 
T"  ui^  ivyr-^.,..,4.„;.,  ^^^  :*■  „i>f  tin  per  litre,  and  lastly  in  some  samples  up  to  2  milligr 
lable  Mountain  as  it  V\|i  that  the  report  should  be  examined  and  discussed,  butth< 
i«r  ^1  •  /-^i  •  ihad  OwOasion  to  declare  that  the  chemical  analyses  made  hi 

Watkins   Glen,   is   unqik  all  question.  | 

pe  matter.  It  is  not  a  question  about  a  simple  narrative ,  bnl 
^imists.  The  question  is  not  to  know  if  the  hospitals  of  Pal 
ber  year,  but  to  know  if  they  ate  wrong  in  doing  it.  The  nl 
iiedioinal  waters,  but  such  as  the  St.  Galmier  and  the  Gondilll 
.  ttld  be  absurd  to  contest.  Waiting,  therefore,  for  a  definitive 
re  prudent  to  adhere  to  the  natural  waters,  which,  as  the  [ 
last  do  not  make  any  harm. " 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       125 


beautiful  and  sublime  to  be  found  on  this  portion  of  the 
American  continent. 

From  the  preceding  description  of  Watkins  and 
Havana  Glens,  Seneca  Lake  and  surroundings,  the 
query  will  naturally  suggest  itself,  "  Why  isn't  this  locality 
a  pleasant  place  in  which  to  spend  a  summer  vacation  ? " 
It  certainly  is,  being  one  of  the  most  delightful  and  in- 
teresting spots  on  the  continent  In  addition  to  the 
pleasurable  features  of  the  section,  it  abounds  with 
numerous  mineral  springs  which  have,  by  years  of 
experience,  proven  to  possess  excellent  healing  qualities. 
This  locality  is  readily  accessible  by  the  Erie  Railway  to 
Elmira,  from  thence  via  the  Northern  Central,  twenty 
miles  northward  to  Havana  or  Watkins,  or  via  the  New 
York  Central  to  Canadaigua,  where  the  Northern  Central 
is  taken  southward  to  destination,  but  we  prefer  to  return 
to  Elmira,  and  continue  our  journey  westward  via  the 
New  York,  Lake  Erie  and  Western  Railway,  to  the 
world-renowned  cataract,  to  visit  which  is  the  "  Mecca  '* 
of  every  tourist's  pilgrimage,  and  not  to  have  seen  is  t's 
reproach  ;  we  approach  the  recital  of  its  beauties  witii  a 
sense  of  the  inadequacy  of  the  pen  to  do  it  justice. 

'     ^      NIAGARA   FALLS. 

v^y^HE  Falls  of  Niagara  may  justly  be  classed  among 
m^  the  wonders  of  the  world.  They  are  the  pride  of 
America,  and  their  grandeur,  magnitude  and 
magnificence  are  well  known  to  all  the  civilized  world. 
Ever  since  the  discovery  of  this  wonderful  cataract,  mil- 
lions have  flocked  thither  from  all  countries  to  gaze  with 
feelings  of  the  deepest  solemnity  on  the  tumultuous  fall  of 
water,  and   to   adore   the   power   and    majesty  of   the 


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i.  .    . .     ■•,  -  .■ 

TUi  water  la  iarslaable  m  a  vrt/vtnxtirt  or  remedy  for  intermittent,,  gastrio  and  bilioae  feven» 
dyienteriee  and  ▼arions  disorders  of  the  liver  and  kidneys.  It  is  highly  esteemed  for  the  treat- 
menj  of  obsoara  and  ohronio  diseases,  requiring  alterative  and  diuretio  remedies— being  ezten* 
sive^  used  with  very  benefieial  effeots  in  a  great  yariety  of  rheumatio  and  sorpfiilous  affections. 
It  a|ts  freely  as  a  oathartic,  without  produoing  the  debility,  pain  and  nausea  that  usually  attend 
thebse  of  cathartio  drugs,  gives  vigor  to  the  ofroulation,  removes  constipation,  creates  an  appeUte, 
aodfpromotes  a  healthy  eondition  of  all  the  secretions  and  ezcretionj  of  the  Rystem. 

liaionoirs  VOB  Usaro.— ils  a  catkartie^  drink  (not  aip)  twa  hall  pint  glasses  of  the  water 
tw*ty  or  thirty  minutes  before  breakfkst.    A  cup  of  hot  tea  or  coffee  taken  just  before  eating  will 

irallyaid  the  cathartio  effects.    Experience  in  individual  cases  may  show  that  less,  or,  possi- 

.  at  first,  more  of  the  water  may  be  required.  For  alterative,  dwrette  and  tonto  effects,  tne 
irner  is  belt  taken  in  small  potations  frequently  through  the  day. 

ANALYSIS  BY  PROF.  C.  F.  CHANDLER. 

Laboratotv  <^  the  School  of  Minet,  Columbia  Cott«e,       \ 

ITiw  Tou,  AuguH  IMk,  1872.  $ 

The  sample  of  EMPIRE  SPRING  WATER,  taken  bjrme  from  the  Spring  at  Saratoga,  eon- 
tains,  in  one  United  States  gallon  of  231  onbio  inches : 

Chloride  of  Sodium 506.630  graini. 

Chloride  of  Potassium 4-292 

Bicarbonate  of  Magnesia \j^'^  . 

Bicarbonate  of  Lime 109.656  ' 

Bicarbonate  of  Lithia 2.080  " 

Bicarbonate  of  Soda 9.^  " 

Bicarbonate  of  Baryta 0.070  " 

Bicarbonate  of  Iron 0.793  " 

Bicarbonate  of  Strontia *, !i^%P«'  ^ 

{Iromide  of  Sodium 0.266  *4| 

odideofSodium 0.006  " 

Sulphate  ttfPotassa 2.769  ' 

Phosphate  of  Soda O.Offl  " 

SUica 1-458  " 

Alumina 0.408  •• 

Fluoride  of  Calcium,) 

Biborate  of  Soda,      >  each  a  tiaoe. 

Organic  Matter,        ) 

Totid 680.436  grains. 

Oarboaio  Acid  Gas 344.669  cubic  in. 

BespeetiOally  your  obedient  servant,  _ 

**pr^,  0.  F.  CHANliLBR,  Ph.  D.,  P.CS., 

-^        Profeseor  of  Analytical  and  Appliai  Chemiitry- 


Is  a  Chalybeate  Mineral  Water,  possessing  tonic  properties  of  a  highly  beneficial  character.  It 
has  einatuativ  (tetive  effects  in  the  Kidneve  and  Bladder,  restoring  healthy  action  to  tbese  organs 
if  debilitated  by  lone  disease,  and  acts  as  a  dissolvent  in  the  distressing  disease  of  gravel  in  a 
sinc^ular  manner;  and  by  experience  of  those  who  have  used  it,  has  removed  all  doubt  of  its 
txmtirte  beneficial  effects  in  inflammatory  conditione  of  ike  Kidneya  and  Bladder.  For  Diabetes  it 
stands  unrivalled  as  a  remedial  agent,  and  for  the  cure  of  those  numerous  diseases  known  only  to 
the  female  sex,  it  has  been  used  with  singular  and  decided  success. 

ANALYSIS  OF  COLUMBIA  WATER. 

The>gpecifie  gravity  of  this  water  is  1007.3.    Its  solid  and  gaseous  contents  as  follows : 
^orida  of  Sodium ..-.267.00  grains. 


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'      WTiat  MEREDITH  CLYMEB,  M.D.. 

I!x-Pr(if«uor  <^  Practiee  qf  Medicine  in  the  University  qf  New  York,  ete,y  hat  to  tap 
concerning  CONGRESS  SPRING  WATER. 

Prof.  Gltx ib,  writing  on  Lithtemia  (Acid  Dyspepsia),  says :— **  Of  the  different  natural  Alkaline 
Mineral  Waters  named,  no  one  fulfils  as  well  so  many  ot'  the  required  indidationa  ia  the  treatment 
of  this  ohronio  disorder  as  the  water  of  the  Congress  Spring,  at  Saratoga.  Whilst  other  waters 
containing  many  of  the  salts  found  in  this  may>  sometimes,  be  used  in  like  oases  temporarily  with- 
out harm,  their  prolonged  use  is  sure  to  be  attended  with  unpleasant  effects,  even  in  young  ner- 
sons,  and  those  otherwise  with  sound  organs,  on  account  of  their  harthneua  ;  but  iu  persons  where 
degenerate  changes  already  exist  in  the  Kidneys  and  other  organs,  and  in  old  persons  where  such 
changes  are  constantly  present,  I  have  repeatedly  known  most  diaoutroua  contequencee  follow  the 
use  of  the  ttronger  and  Karah  waters,  both  native  and  imported,  when  taken  in  full  doses  and  for 
any  length  of  time.  In  an  experience  of  over  f  Cirty  years  with  the  Congress  Spring  Water  (and 
which  to-day  is  aa  perfect  in  its  chemical  constitution  and  in  its  remedial  properties  as  at  any  pre- 
Tioud  time),  I  have  not  known  a  single  instance  where,  when  used  in  suitable  cases  any  unplea- 
sant effects  followed  its  habitual  use  at  any  age.  This  harmlessness,  as  well  as  its  efficiency,  may, 
I  think,  be  rightly  attributed  to  the  happy  proportions  in  which  the  various  alkaline  salts  which 
enter  into  it;)  comijosition,  and  which  are  so  potent  tbrgood  in  this  class  of  disorders,  are  com- 
bined, and  which  in  their  treatment  makes  Congress  Water /act7e  princepn  amongst  the  natural 
mineral  waters.  It  is  not  alone  as  a  Cathartic  and  Laxative  that  the  Confiress  Spring  Water  is  of 
great  worth  in  the  management  of  these  affections  (and  as  such  its  action  is  mild  and  prompt),  but 
it  is  when  used  continuously  and  in  less  quantity  that  we  derive  so  much  benefit>  without  risk  to 
the  patient,  as  an  alterative  and  regulator  of  the  digestive  functions. " 


OP2J\riOJVS  OF  THE  PRESS. 
And  what  they  have  to  say  concerning  Mineral  Waters. 

[N.  Y.  Tribunb,  February  13X1881.] 
IMPORTANT  TO  MINERAL  WATER  DRINKERS. 


A  Fbrngh  AvALTLia  or  Minibal  akd  MAmrPAOTCBKD  Waters  as  AmcTRD  bt  (Tomtaot 

WITH  Mbtaluo  Substamgbs. 

A  correspondent  in  Paris  has  sent  us  the  following  from  17u  Figaro  of  Nov.  21, 1880,  which  dis^ 
cufsesa  question  of  great  importance  to  both  manufacturers  and  consumers  of  artificial  mineral 

C/Vom  The  Figaro  of  Nov.  21, 1880. ) 

TesterdayV  Figaro  defended  the  artificial  Seltser  water  against  some  aoonsations,  the  truth  of 
which  is  now  actually  being  examined  by  the  Academy  of  Science.  We  believe  ourselves  justified 
in  coming  back  to  a  question  the  gravity  of  which  is  plain  to  everybody.  We  thit  k  that  as  vet  the 
papers  ought  not  to  pronounce  themselves  on  this  matter.  There  is  at  the  Academy  of  Science  a 
commission  called  "  The  Insalubrious  Arts,"  which  is  now  examining  the  report  of  Messrs. 
Boutmy  and  Lutaud :  naturally  it  is  thi^  commission  which  shall  judge  the  siphons  in  the  ast  in- 
stance. What  has  happened  everybody  knows.  The  eminent  chemists,  Boutmy  anc  Doctor 
Lutaud,  have  presented  to  the  Academy  a  detailed  report'  in  which  these  gentlemen  stated  that 
after  having  subuiitted  several  samples  of  siphons  to  a  chemical  analysis,  they  have  found  rela- 
tively considerable  quantities  of  lead,  ammoniac  and  azotic  substances.  They  have  discovered  as 
much  as  14  milligr.  of  tin  per  litre,  and  lastlv  in  some  samples  up  to  2  railligr.  of  copper.  The 
Academy  has  decided  that  the  report  should  be  examined  and  discussed*  but  the  honoranle  Dean, 
Mr.  Wurtz,  ha|8  just  had  occasion  to  declare  that  the  chemical  analyses  made  have  given  results 
unfortunately  beyond  all  question. 

There  stands  now  the  matter.  It  is  not  a  question  about  a  simple  narrative ,  but  serious  analyses 
made  by  eminept  chemists.    The  question  is  not  to  know  if  the  hospitals  of  Paris  consume  more 


than  ISOtOOOsiphons  per  year,  but  to  know  if  they  are  wrong  in  doing  it.  The  natural  waters  (we 
do  not  speak  about  medicinal  waters ,  but  such  as  the  St .  Oalmier  and  the  Gondillao)  are  at  least  of 
a  punty  which  it  would  be  absurd  to  contest.  Waiting,  therefore,  for  a  definitive  judgment  of  the 
siphons,  It  seems  more  prudent  to  adhere  to  the  natural  waters,  which,  M  the  saying  goes,  "if 
they  do  no  good,  at  least  do  not  make  any  harm. " 


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1 26         All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 

Almighty  as  there  exhibited  and  realized  amid  the  sub- 
lime scenery  of  this  stupendous  waterfall. 

Over  this  great  cataract  has  been  pouring  ceaselessly 
through  the  centuries  of  the  past,  with  the  deafening  roar 
of  a  thousand  thunders,  a  torrent  of  water  over  three- 
fourth  of  a  mile  wide  and  20  feet  in  depth,  or  an 
aggregate,  it  is  calculated,  of  a  hundred  million  tons  per 
hour.  No  wonder  that  to  this  grandest  of  natural 
shrines  the  untutored  aborigines  were  wont  to  come 
yearly  and  worship  their  Great  Spirit,  and  propitiate  him 
by  the  sacrifice  of  an  Indian  maiden,  sent  down  on  the 
current  in  a  flower-laden  canoe  to  her  death  in  the 
terrible  vortex  ;  no  wonder  that  they  led  thither  the  first 
missionaries  who  penetrated  these  wilds,  and  pointed  in 
speechless  awe  to  the  mighty  cataract ;  and  no  wonder 
that  in  these  latter  days  thousands  of  tourists  from  every 
part  of  this  country  and  Europe  annually  make  this  spot 
their  destination,  and  stand  gazing  in  mute  surprise,  as 
did  the  savage  and  the  priest  before  them,  at  this  wonder 
of  the  world. 

In  the  following  pages  we  shall  attempt  to  guide  the 
traveller  to  the  various  points  whence  the  finest  views  of 
the  Falls  may  be  obtained,  and  thereafter,  conduct 
him  to  the  spots  of  peculiar  interest  in  the  neighbor- 
hood. 

The  Falls  of  Niagara  were  first  seen  by  a  white  man 
over  two  hundred  years  ago.  Father  Hemupitiy  a  French 
Jesuit  missionary,  first  saw  them  when  on  an  expedition 
of  discovery  in  the  year  1678. 

The  spots  of  interest  to  be  visited,  besides  the  great 
Fall  itself  are  :  The  ground  where  the  memorable  battle 
of  Lundey's  Lane  was  fought ;  the  Whirlpool  below  the 


V^ik 


IK  '■}; 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.        127 

Falls  ,  the  Suspension  Bridges  ;  the  Devil's  Hole,  and 
the  Bloody  Run;  the  Cueenston  Heights,  General 
Brock's  Monument ;  the  burning  Spring,  etc. 

The  Village  of  t/ie  Falls,  through  which  you  pass  on 
your  way  from  the  cars,  lies  on  the  east  side  of  the  river, 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  grand  cataract,  22  miles 
by  rail  from  the  city  of  Buffalo  on  Lake  Erie,  and  300 
by  rail  from  Albany,  This  is  a  fashionable  place  of 
resort  dnring  summer  and  autumn,  and  the  Hotels  at  the 
village  are  excellent  in  all  respects,  and  most  agreeable 
abodes  for  those  who  intend  to  sojourn  for  a  time  within 
sound  of  the  Falls. 

Having  landed  our  traveller  safely  at  Niagara,  the 
choice  of  an  hotel  is  the  matter  of  paramount  importance. 
General  opinion  is  much  divided  on  this  subject,  many 
travellers  asserting  that  the  American  side  is  the  only 
one  to  stay  at  and  see  the  Falls,  as  the  Rapids  and  Goat 
Island  are  to  be  reached  from  that  side  only,  whilst  others 
take  the  broader  view  of  the  question — that  the  minor 
attractions  ought  to  give  place  to  the  Falls,  and  that  the 
only  place  to  obtain  an  uninterrupted  view  of  the  two 
mighty  cataracts  is  from  the  Canadian  side.  We  shall, 
however  leave  this  question  to  be  decided  by  the  traveler, 
and  merely  observe  that  the  hotels  on  both  sides  are  very 
good,  that  is  to  say,  the  "  International,"  and  "  Spencer 
House,"  on  the  American  side,  and  the  "  Brunswick,"  on 
the  Canadian  Shore ;  any  of  which  can  be  well  recom- 
mended. 

Having  selected  our  hotel,  it  is  scarcely  necessary  to 
say  that  days  of  sojourn  at  the  Falls  are  desirable  to  see 
them  in  all  their  varying  aspects,  and  become  fully 
acquainted    with    their    beauty    and    grandeur,    often 


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128        All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

underrated  by  those  who  only  pay  the  ^^alls  a  flying 
visit.  The  tourist  and  pleasure  traveller,  however,  will  be 
best  served  with  a  brief  statement  of  the  most  beautiful 
and  most  conveniently  attained  points  of  view.  Without 
doubt,  Prospect  Park,  near  the  International  Hotel,  is 
the  greatest  attraction  on  the  American  side.  These 
grounds,  comprising  what  are  familiarly  known  as  the 
"  Ferry  Grove,"  and  "  Point  View,"  were  purchased  by 
the  Prospect  Park  Company  in  1872.  Rarely,  indeed,  do 
Nature  and  Art  so  perfectly  combine  to  spread  before 
the  delighted  gaze  so  much  that  is  wonderful,  beautiful 
and  sublime.  Passing  through  the  umbrageous  groves, 
along  the  beautiful  winding  carriage  drives  we  emerge 
upon  the  point  in  front  of  the  Museum  and  Art  Gallery, 
where  thousands  of  visitors  are  photographed  every  year, 
the  grand  adjacent  scenery  being  utilized  to  fill  in  the 
pictures.  The  entrance  fee  to  the  above  establishment  is 
repaid  a  thousand-fold  by  the  fine  display  of  curious  and 
and  interesting  objects,  photographs,  stereoscopic  views, 
geological  specimens,  &c.  &c.,  which  become  so  interest- 
ing to  the  visitor  that  it  is  really  with  reluctance  that  he 
takes  his  leave. 

From  the  Art  Gallery  it  is  but  a  step  to  the  Point  A 
solid  wall  of  masonry  guards  this  spot,  and  continues 
along  the  bank  of  the  River  to  the  New  Suspension 
Bridge.  Standing  at  the  angle,  directly  over  the 
American  Falls,  so  close  that  one  might  almost 
thrust  out  his  hand  into  the  roaring  mass  of  water 
as  it  rolls  seething  by,  we  have  spread  before  us  a 
magnificent  view  of  Goat  Island,  the  Horseshoe  Falls, 
Table  Rock,  the  Clifton  and  Brunswick  Hotels,  the 
new  Suspension  Bridge,  the  American  Falls,  with  the 


'ne 


"'M'l. 


All-Roitnd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        129 

frowning  rocks  below  and  the  Ferry  to  the  Canada  side. 
Cool,  shady  walks  run  in  all  directions  through  the 
Park,  and  rustic  seats  at  intervals  invite  the  visitor  to 
linger  here  and  gaze  at  the  magnificent  scenery.  The 
Park  Company  have  also  erected  a  beautiful  pavilion, 
where  visitors  can  "  trip  the  light  fantastic  toe  "  within 
sound  of  the  roar  of  the  great  cataract.  An  elegant 
restaurant  is  also  on  the  grounds,  vvhere  they  can  regale 
the  inner  man  when  tired  of  sight-seeing.  Then  we  may 
enter  the  Ferry  House  and  descend  the  Incline  Railway 
through  a  cut  in  the  bank  to  the  water's  edge,  a 
distance  of  360  feet  The  spiral  stairs  constructed 
here  in  1825  having  become  shaky  with  age,  the  present 
novel  but  commodious  contrivance  was  inaugurated  in 
1845.  The  flight  of  steps  leading  along  the  railway 
consists  of  290  steps.  The  car  is  drawn  up  the  inclined 
plane  by  water  power,  an  overshot  wheel  being  turned 
by  a  stream  diverted  from  the  river  for  that  purpose. 
Around  a  wheel  eight  feet  in  diameter,  which  turns  in  a 
horizontal  position  at  the  head  of  the  railway,  runs 
a  cable  two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter  and  300 
feet  in  length,  attached  to  a  car  at  either  end,  and 
supported  by  pulleys  placed  at  convenient  intervals  down 
the  grade.  At  the  foot  of  the  stairs,  turning  to  the  left, 
the  Company  has  erected  a  commodious  and  substantial 
building,  from  which  may  be  obtained,  from  the  base  of 
^ne  descending  torrent,  one  of  the  most  magnificent 
views  of  the  Falls,  looked  at  through  those  wonderful 
clouds  of  rising  spray,  refracting  the  sun's,  rays  in  all  the 
colors  of  the  rainbow,  and  sparkling  and  shimmering  in 
the  light,  like  clouds  of  diamond  dust  Then  donning 
tarpaulin  coats  and  hats,  we  may  pass  in  behind  the 

9 


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130        All-RoHud  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 

cataract  and  see  the  wonders  of  the  caves,  and  look  out 
upon  the  waters  as  they  roll  over  our  heaus.  The  Ferry 
to  the  Canadian  side  is  close  at  hand,  and  seating  our- 
selves in  the  ferry  boat  we  are  soon  dancing  over  the 
agitated  waters.  From  the  river  the  Falls  are  seen  to 
great  advantage.  Formerly  the  shades  of  night  brought 
the  pleasures  of  the  day  to  a  close,  but  science  and 
enterprise  have  lengthened  the  hours  of  enjoyment  for 
us.  Eighteen  electric  lights  pour  their  brilliant  rays 
upon  the  scene,  infusing  the  spray  clouds  with  gorgeous 
rainbow  tints,  and  illuminating  thef  rolling  waters  with  a 
brilliancy  beyond  description.  The  Canadian  side 
stands  out  clear  and  distinct,  and  the  whole  scene  is 
wonderfully  beautiful,  weird  and  sublime. 

Prospect  Park  is  certainly  the  spot  which  the  traveler 
will  visit  first,  and  where  he  will  linger  longest.  No  one 
should  fail  to  visit  the  Park  both  by  day  and  by  night. 

There  is  a  fascination  about  this  mighty  cataract 
which  seems  to  chain  us  to  this  spot,  and  when  we  seek 
to  leave  it  draws  us  irresistibly  back  again.  Even  in 
describing  it,  however  inadequately  the  task  may  be 
accomplished,  we  are  loth  to  lay  down  the  pen  and  tear 
ourselves  away.  The  Almighty  has  invested  Niagara 
with  a  power  that  none  can  resist,  and  those  who  gaze 
upon  it  for  the  first  time  have  a  new  era  in  their 
existence  opened  up,  new  thoughts  and  impressions 
stamped  indelibly  upon  their  hearts,  which  haunt  them 
in  after  years,  and  linger  in  their  memories  till  time  is 
swallowed  in  eternity. 

Proceeding  to  the  Falls,  our  task  is  now,  in  as  few  words 
as  possible,  to  direct  the  tourist  as  to  what  to  see  and 
how  to   see  it.     We   will,  therefore,  explain   that  the 


The 
with 
are  not 
when 
influen 
wizard 

Wh< 

stupenc 
that  it 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       131 

larger  cataract  stretching  from  shore  to  shore  is  the 
Canadian  or  Horseshoe  Fall,  whilst  the  smaller  one  is 
the  American.  The  dimensions  of  the  two  Falls  must 
necessarily  be  a  matter  of  computation,  and  they  are 
estimated  as  follows. 

The  American  Fall|  900  feet  across,  with  a  drop  of 
164  feet. 

The  Canadian  Fall,  1,900  feet  across,  with  a  drop  of 
158  feet ;  and  it  is  stated  by  Professor  Lyell  that  fifteen 
hundred  millions  of  cubic  feet  of  water  pass  over  this 
fall  every  hour ! 


HORBESHOE    FALL. 


The  traveler  in  his  first  visit  to  the  Falls  is  impressed 
with  a  sense  of  inexpressible  amazement  His  emotions 
are  not  unlike  those  of  the  votary  of  necromancy,  who, 
when  once  within  the  magic  circle,  trembles  under  the 
influence  of  the  enchanter,  even  before  he  confronts  the 
wizard  himself. 

HORSESHOE  FALL. 

Who  can  forget  his  first  view  of  this  grand  and 
stupendous  spectacle?  The  roaring  is  so  tremendous 
that  it  would  seem,  that  if  all  the  lions  that  have  ever 


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132       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

lived  since  the  days  of  Daniel  could  join  their  voices  in 
one  "  Hallelujah "  chorus,  they  would  produce  but  a 
whisper  in  comparison  to  the  deep  diapason  of  this  most 
majestic  of  all  Nature's  pipes  or  organs. 

The  bridge  which  connects  the  mainland  with  Goat 
Island  is  eagerly  passed,  and  we  explore  the  whole  of 
this  curious  crag,  which  is  rightly  named,  for  it  is  found 

fantastic  enough  to  suggest  that 
goats  only  could  find  a  comfort- 
\able  footing.  The  sublimity  of 
/the  scene  increases  at  every 
step ;  but  when  we  come  upon 
the  mighty  Cataract,  we  gaze  in 
THE  BAPID8.  speechless  wonder.     But  words 

cannot  describe  the  grandeur  of  this  scene,  nor  the 
emotion  which  it  excites ;  neither  can  the  pencil,  any 
more  than  the  pen,  do  it  justice.  The  silent  and  still 
picture  wants  the  motion  and  the  sound  of  that 
stupendous  rush  of  waters.  It  is  impossible  to  paint  the 
ever-rising  column  of  spray  that  spires  upward  from  the 
foaming  gulf  below,  or  the  prismatic  glory  that  crowns 
it ;  for  there  indeed  has  God  forever  "  set  his  bow  "  in 
the  cloud,  and  cold  must  be  the  heart  that  in  such  a 
scene  remembers  not  His  covenant. 

./'  -.  NEW  SUSPENSION  BRIDGE. 

The  desirability  of  erecting  a  bridge  nearer  the  falls, 
and  for  carriage  or  foot  passengers  only,  had  long  been 
spoken  of,  and  finally,  after  much  trouble  and 
perseverance,  charters  were  obtained  from  the  State  of 
New  York  and  the  Province  of  Ontario,  and  work  was 
commenced  in  1867.     Its  cost  was  nearly  $1,200,000.     It 


•■.1». 


*;riP>{''ir 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        133 

is  located  about  1,800  feet  below  the  American  Falls,  on 
the  American  side,  landing  on  the  Canadian  side,  only 
5  or  10  rods  below  the  Clifton  House.     The  towers  on 


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the    Canadian    side    are    120  feet    high,  and    on   the 
American  side  106  feet  high.    The  span  is  1,230  feet 


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134      All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


from  tower  to  tower.  The  height  from  the  water  to  the 
floor  of  the  bridge  is  256  feet.  There  is  a  single  track 
for  carriages,  and  space  at  one  side  for  foot  passengers. 
The  bridge  has  at  each  side  a  strong  railing  five  feet 
high.  The  estimated  strength  of  the  structure  is  over 
150  tons,  and  as  10  or  15  tons  is  all  that  could  well  be 
placed  on  the  bridge  at  one  time  by  its  ordinary  traffic^ 
the  greatest  confidence  prevails  as  to  its  stability.  It  has 
now  passed  through  twelve  winters  with  its  load  of  ice 
and  frozen  spray,  so  that  it  is  no  longer  an  experiment, 
but  a  fixed  fact,  and  full  confidence  has  been  established. 

It  stands  as  a  great,  lasting  monument  to  J.  T.  Bush, 
who  conceived  the  project,  and  carried  it  to  a  successful 
termination.  The  view  from  the  centre  of  it  is  exceed- 
ingly fine ;  suspended  in  mid-air — in  full  view  of  both 
the  American  and  Horseshoe  Falls — the  river  above  and 
below,  with  its  beautiful  banks  from  150  to  250  feet 
perpendicular,  presents  a  view  never  before  enjoyed  by 
visitors  to  this  wonderfully  beautiful  resort. 

The  erection  of  this  bridge  brings  Goat  Island  and 
the  side  of  Table  Rock  within  easy  walking  distance. 


'.<h 


'*M\.:t  ') 


f-l; 


TABLE  ROCK, 

From  which  such  a  grand  view  of  the  falls  was  obtained, 
exists  only  in  name,  and  in  the  interest  which  attaches  to 
its  site.  It  was  a  truly  magnificent  crag,  overhanging 
the  fearful  abyss,  and  it  constituted  one  of  the  wonders 
of  the  place.  Many  accidents  are  recorded,  from  the 
temerity  of  tourists  who  ventured  too  near  its  margin. 
It,  however,  fell  in  1862,  and  had  this  accident  occurred 
an  hour  or  two  earlier  in  the  day,  the  Victoria  Bridge, 
the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  and  many  other  Canadian 


•;-.■  « 


\}&' 


AlURound  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        135 


v,r 


'^^^^^''^ 


TABLE  ROCK  — NIAGARA  FALLS. 


136       Alt-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


i 


h'j' 


.:i4^;  Mill 


undertakings,  might  not  have  been  accomplished,  for,  a 
very  short  time  previous  to  the  disappearance  of  the 
slippery  granite,  there  was  standing  upon  it,  viewing  the 
Falls,  the  engineer  of  the  Victoria  Bridge  and  several  of 
his  colleagues  in  the  enterprises  that  have  been  men- 
tioned, 

CAVE  OF  THE  WINDS. 

A  suitable  building  is  here  erect- 
ed for  the  accommodation  of  visitors 
wishing  to  pass  under 'the  centre 
Falls  into  the  Cave  of  the  Winds, 
and  this  is  a  feat  that  all  tourists 
should,  if  possible,  perform.  Oil- 
skin dresses,  clean  and  dry,  are 
supplied  to  visitors.  For  a  small 
fee  an  experienced  guide  will  ac- 
company parties  under  the  sheet  of 
water,  and  describe  fully  all  the 
incidents  connected  with  this  local- 
ity. The  scene  within  the  cave  is  one  of  inconceivable 
grandeur.  Conversation  is  impossible,  the  mighty 
cataract  asserting  its  right  to  alone  be  heard,  as  its 
thunders  reverberate  within  the  cave, 

PLACES  OF  INTEREST  AT  NIAGARA. 

Below  the  Brunswick  House,  we  have  the  Railway 
Suspension  Bridge,  Whirlpool  Rapids,  and  Whirlpool. 
Opposite  the  American  side :  Prospect  Park,  American 
Falls,  Goat  Island,  American  Rapids,  Three  Sister 
Islands,  and  Luna  Island.  Canada  side :  The  Horse- 
shoe Falls,  front  view  of  all  the  Falls,  Burning  Spring, 
and  Whirlpool. 


ENTRAKCB   TO   THB   CAVE    OF 
THE   WINDB. 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       137 

The  illumination  of  the  Falls  by  the  electric  light 
shows  to  better  advantage  from  the  Brunswick  House 
than  any  other  point  on  the  Canadian  side  of  the  river. 
This  is  perhaps  one  of  the  grandest  scenes  in  the  world, 
and  the  attraction  par  excellence  to  visitors  from  the 
United  States  and  Europe. 

From  Prospect  Park  we  pass  over  the  New  Suspension 
Bridge  to  the  Canadian  side.  Here  a  road  turns  to  the 
left  from  the  end  of  the  bridge,  leading  along  the  cliff 
past  the  Clifton  and  Brunswick  Houses,  and  affording 
the  most  beautiful  and  sublime  views  of  both  Falls.  We 
now  come  to  Table  Rock  ;  from  this  point  the  view  of 
the  Falls  is  incomparably  grand.  A  little  over  a  mile 
above  the  Falls,  continuing  our  drive  up  the  river  road, 
we  come  to  the  most  wonderful  natural  curiosity  in  the 
world,  the  famous  Burning  Spring.  The  waters  of  these 
Springs  are  highly  charged  with  sulphuretted  hydrc^en 
gas,  which,  when  ignited,  emits  a  pale  blue  light,  which 
burns  with  a  brilliant  flame.  To  heighten  the  effect,  the 
phenomenon  of  the  burning  water  is  exhibited  in  a  dark- 
ened room.  Many  fine  improvements  have  been  made 
at  this  spot  during  the  past  year,  by  erecting  two  hand- 
some suspension  carriage  bridges  and  three  other  truss 
bridges,  and  otherwise  improving  the  walks  and  drives. 

We  might  write  volumes  about  this  beautiful  point  of 
interest,  but  we  prefer  to  have  our  readers  go  and  see  for 
themselves.  Suffice  it  to  say  our  advice  to  tourists  and 
pleasure  travelers  is :  "  Do  not  leave  Niagara  until  you 
have  taken  this,  the  most  beautiful  drive  at  the  Falls, 
through  Cedar  Island  and  Clark  Hill  Islands  to  the 
Burning  Spring." 

During  the  past  year  it  has  been  visited  by  many 


••,1' 


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138        All' Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

thousands  of  tourists  and  pleasure  travelers  from  all 
quarters  of  the  globe,  all  of  whom  have  pronounced  it  to 
be  one  of  the  most  attractive  points  of  interest  at 
Niagara.  It  is  situated  on  the  Canadian  side  of  the 
river.  Returning  from  the  Burning  Spring  we  drive 
along  down  the  Niagara  river,  cross  the  bridge  already 
referred  to,  to  the  American  side,  and  proceed  two 
miles  to  the  town  of  Suspension  Bridge,  where  many- 
interesting  sights  are  to  be  seen. 

We  will  now  proceed  to  give  a  description  of  the 
Railway  Suspension  Bridge,  which  is  admitted  by  all  to 
be  a  wonderful  triumph  of  engineering  skill.  Mr. 
Roebling,  of  TreAton,  New  Jersey,  was  the  engineer  of 
this  bridge,  which,  as  the  name  implies,  is  constructed  on 
the  suspension  system.  The  two  towers  supporting  the 
entire  structure,  which  is  in  one  span,  (800  ft),  are  about 
70  feet  high,  and  built  on  and  into  the  solid  rock ;  the 
bridge  is  supported  by  four  cables,  each  composed  of 
8,000  wires,  and  measuring  9j^  inches  in  diameter, 
aggregate  length  of  wire  employed  being  more  than 
4,000  miles,  whilst  the  entire  weight  of  the  bridge  is 
12.400  tons.  Its  cost  was  half  a  million  dollars.  It  is 
constructed  for  the  joint  purposes  of  road  and  pedestrian 
traffic,  and  for  the  Great  Western  Railway  of  Canada. 

There  is  a  small  toll  levied  on  all  passengers,  and  a 
custom-house  officer  will  make  a  cursory  and  rapid 
search,  lest  any  articles  liable  for  duty  are  being  carried 
across  from  the  United  States  into  the  Dominion  of 
Canada,  or  vice  versa.     From  here  we  drive  to  the 


WHIRLPOOL  RAPIDS  AND   DOUBLE  ELEVATOR, 

situated  on  the  American  side,  about  one  hundred  rods 
below  the  Railway  Suspension    Bridge — the  finest  and 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        139 

most  interesting  spot  about  Niagara  Falls.  This 
delightful  spot  is  visited  by  many  thousands  of  people 
annually,  on  account  of  the  wild  and  magnificent  grandeur 
of  its  scenery.  The  river  here  turns  abruptly  to  the 
right,  forming  an  elbow,  and  as  the  waters  rush  against 
the  opposite  banks,  a  whirlpool  is  formed,  on  which 
logs,  and  often  bodies,  have  been  kno\,  .0  float  many 
days. 

The  river  in  the  centre  is  estimated  by  the  engineers 
to  be  eleven  feet  and  a  half  higher  than  on  each  shore, 
and  the  visitor  often  wonders  how  the  "Maid  of  the 
Mist "  ever  passed  down  here  and  lived. 

There  is  no  perpendicular  fall,  or  external  outlet  at  the 
whirlpool.  The  distance  across  it  is  one  thousand  feet ; 
perpendicular  height  of  the  banks,  three  hundred  and 
fifty  feet.  Here  they  have  a  magnificent  Double 
Elevator,  worked  by  r^  water-wheel  some  two  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  below  the  top  of  the  bank,  which  enables 
the  visitor  to  reach  the  water's  edge  without  fatigue. 
Here  bursts  upon  the  view  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and 
sublime  sights  to  be  seen  in  the  world.  Through  a 
narrow  gorge  rush,  in  their  tumultuous  and  maddening 
course,  all  the  waters  of  the  great  Upper  Lakes.  The 
immense  under-current  forces  the  water  in  the  centre 
thirty  or  forty  feet  higher  than  at  the  edges. 

The  ever-varying  changes  the  waters  constantly 
undergo  are  indescribably  beautiful  and  fascinating. 
One  is  never  tired  of  gazing  at  this  wondrous  scene. 
The  surrounding  scenery  is  in  keeping  with  the  raging 
stream.  It  is  a  solemnifying  prospect,  and  few  can  gaze 
upon  it  without  feeling  that  they  had  attained  to  a 
higher  conception  of  the  awful  power  and  might  of  the 
Eternal.     The  rocky  banks  of  the  river,  plainly  showing 


Ul;?k' 


:<p  ■ 


r 


140      All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

the  different  strata,  exhibit  the  wonderful  handiwork  of 
nature.  From  this  point  the  finest  view  of  the  Railway- 
Suspension  Bridge  can  be  obtained.  To  look  at  this 
beautiful  structure  from  the  water's  edge,  at  this  point, 
one  could  almost  believe  the  fairies  built  it.  It  was  near 
this  spot  that  Blondin  crossed  the  gorge  on  a  rope,  with 
a  man  on  his  back.  No  visitor  should  leave  Niagara 
without  visiting  this  delightful  and  romantic  spot. 
Words  cannot  express  the  grandeur  of  this  scene ;  it  is 
acknowledged  by  all  to  be  one  of  Nature's  Grandest 
Works,  Reader,  you  have  not  seen  Niagara  until  you 
have  paid  this  place  a  visit  Out  of  the  many  thousands 
annually  visiting  the  Whirlpool  Rapids,  on  the 
American  side,  none  have  gone  away  dissatisfied,  but 
all  are  more  thau  ever  impressed  with  the  tremendous 
magnificence  of  Niagara.  While  the  view  from  the 
Canadian  side  may  be  said  to  supply  the  general  out- 
lines of  the  picture,  that  from  the  American  reveals  it  in 
all  its  completeness. 


« 


MAID  OF  THE  MIST.' 


It  is  now  a  matter  of  history  how  this  tiny  steamer 
which  conveyed  tourists  under  the  spray  of  the  great 
Horseshoe  Fall  successfully  escaped  the  hands  of  the 
sheriff,  by  passing  through  the  whirlpool. 

She  left  her  moorings,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  above 
the  old  Suspension  B/idge,  June  15,  1 861,  and  sprang 
boldly  out  into  the  river,  to  try  one  of  the  most  perilous 
voyages  ever  made.  She  shot  forward  like  an  arrow  of 
light,  bowed  gracefully  to  the  multitude  on  the  Bridge, 
and  with  the  velocity  of  lightning  passed  on  her  course. 
Many  beheld  this  hazardous  adventure,  expecting  every 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,         141 


instant  she  would  be  dashed  to  pieces  and  disappear 
forever.  Amazement  thrilled  every  heaii;,  and  it  appeared 
as  if  no  power  could  save  her.  "  There !  there !  "  was  the 
suppressed  exclamation  that  escaped  the  lips  of  all. 
"  She  careens  over !  she  is  lost !  she  is  lost ! "  But, 
guided  by  an  eye  that  dimmed  not,  and  a  hand  that 


"  MAID  OP  THE  MIST  "   GOING   THROUGH  THE  WHIRLPOOL 
RAPIDS  (AMERICAN  SIDE). 

never  trembled,  she  was  piloted  through  those  maddened 
waters  by  the  intrepid  Robinson,  in  perfect  safety,  and 
subsequently  performed  less  hazardous  voyages  on  the 
St.  Lawrence. 

On  this  trip  there  were  but  three  men  on  board,  the 
pilot,  engineer  and  fireman. 


•^i'iJ.^i 


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SfU'  , 

142       AU-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

She  is  the  only  craft,  so  far  as  is  known,  that  ever 
made  this  fearful  trip,  and  lived.  Though  the  pilot  had 
performed  many  hazardous  exploits  in  saving  the  lives 
of  persons  who  had  fallen  into  the  river,  yet  this  last  act 
in  taking  the  "  Maid  of  the  Mist "  through  the  whirlpool 
is  the  climax  of  all  his  adventures. 

THE  devil's  hole, 

Is  a  large  triangular  chasm  in  the  bank  of  the  river, 
three  and  a  half  miles  below  the  falls.  The  Bloody  Run, 
a  ravine  so  called  from  a  sanguinary  engagement  between 
two  hostile  Indian  tribes,  falls  into  this  chasm. 


THE  WHIRLPOOL. 


Another  very  attractive  point  of  interest  which  the 
tourist  will  wish  to  visit  is  the 

WHIRLPOOL  RAPIDS  PARK. — (CANADIAN  SIDE.) 

This  new  and  attractive  resort  (always  in  the  shade 
after  noon)  is  situated  on  the  Canadian  side  of  the 
Niagara  River  Rapids,  one  minute's  walk  north  of  the 
Railroad  Suspension  Bridge,  and  is  reached  by  a  double 
hydraulic  gravitating  elevator  running  down  to  the 
water's  edge.  From  thence,  picturesque,  shady  and  level 
walks  wind  along  the  edge  of  the  mighty  rapids,  passing 


Alt-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       143 

a  superb  fountain  throwing  up  spray  to  the  height  of  one 
hundred  feet,  across  a  rustic  bridge,  beneath  which 
rushes  a  beautiful  cascade,  making  three  distinct  leaps 
from  the  cliffs  over  two  hundred  feet  above  the  river.  At 
the  grandest  point  of  the  rapids  a  rustic  platform  has 
been  constructed,  projecting  forty  feet  over  the  wildest 
part  of  the  river,  affording  the  most  sublime  view  of 
these  wonderful  rapids.  Beneath  this  platform  i'^  the 
Boiling  Well  which  bubbles  up  with  mighty  impetuosity, 
bidding  defiance  to  the  raging  rapids. 

Landed  at  the  edge  of  the  Grand  Rapids  below,  the 
visitor  finds  himself  in  the  midst  of  a  scene  of  wild 
grandeur  which  is  almost  indescribable.  For  nearly 
250  feet  the  cliffs  rise  in  a  nearly  perpendicular  line. 
Above  them  and  across  the  gorge  stretches  the  mighty 
Suspension  Bridge,  the  passing  trains  looking  like  play- 
things in  the  distance.  Beyond  and  through  the  ffame 
work  of  dark  green  formed  by  the  overhanging  trees, 
Niagara  rushes  ceaselessly,  obscured  at  times  by  the 
clouds  of  white  mist  that  ascend  to  the  sky,  and  for  the 
very  obscurity  all  the  more  grandly  beautiful.  Dashing, 
roaring,  whirling  on  through  the  narrow  passes,  beating 
its  way  against  the  rocks  that  for  ages  have  borne  up 
against  the  shock,  comes  the  accumulation  of  waters. 
Rising  higher  and  higher  as  they  flow  onward,  crying 
out  almost  in  agony  for  more  room  to  move,  they  are 
still  hemmed  in  by  the  silent,  awful  cliffs.  Dashing 
onward,  driven  forward  by  the  never-ending  flow  from 
behind,  they  reach  the  most  contracted  part  of  the 
channel.  Here  for  a  moment  it  seems  almost  as  if  the 
mighty  volume  paused,  unable  to  struggle  further,  and 
then,  with  renewed  effort,  impelled  by  some  all-powerful 


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144       All-Rouftd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

but  invisible  force,  it  dashes  up  in  one  great  volume  of 
20,  30,  35  feet  into  the  air,  and  with  a  noise  of  thunder 
bursts  through  the  iron  rocks  that  seek  to  confine  it, 
and  boiling,  swirling,  bubbling  into  crystal  foam,  at  last 
it  finds  its  way  into  the][calm  green  channel  beyond  the 
gorge.  When  it  is  remembered  that  the  river  at  this 
point  is  'only  300  feet  wide,  that  the  Falls  of  Niagara 
present  a  front  of  one  and  a  quarter  miles,  and  that  the 
flow  of  water  over  them  averages  four  feet  deep,  it  will 
be  seen  that  the  channel  of  the  Whirlpool  Rapids  sink 
to  a  depth  of  at  least  200  feet.  At  no  point  near  the 
Falls  can  the  visitorjobtain  so  good  an  idea  of  the  great 
volume  of  water  that  forces  its  way  through  Niagara 
River,  and  consequently  the  Whirlpool  Rapids  Park  has 
at  once  taken  front  rank  as  a  point  of  interest.  It 
should  be  visited  by  every  one  who  goes  to  Niagara 
Falls. 

THE  THREE   SISTERS.  ;  ,„ 

These  are  three  small  islands,  lying  side  by  side,  near 
the  head  of  Goat  Island.  The  remotest  of  this  group  is 
the  island  from  which  Mr.  Joel  R.  Robinson  rescued  a 
Mr.  Allen  in  the  summer  of  1841.  Mr.  Allen,  having 
started  just  before  sun-down  for  Chippewa,  (a  village 
three  miles  up  the  river  on  the  Canada  side),  had  the 
misfortune  to  break  one  of  his  oars  in  the  midst  of  the 
river.  The  current  caught  his  boat  and  bore  it  rapidly 
towards  the  Falls.  As  his  only  hope  of  safety,  he 
steered  with  the  remaining  oar  for  the  head  of  Goat 
Island,  but,  failing  to  strike  that  he  was  bearing  swiftly 
past  this  little  island  when,  knowing  that  the  alternative 
was  certain  doom,  he  sprang  for  the  land,  and  reached  it 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.       145 


with  but  little  injury.  Having  matches  in  his  pocket, 
he  struck  a  signal  light  at  the  head  of  this  island,  but  it 
was  not  seen  until  morning.  Mr.  Robinson  rescued  him 
by  means  of  a  boat  and  cable. 

The  first  of  the  sisterhood,  or  the  island  nearest  you, 
is  called  Moss  Island.  That  feathery  show  of  a  catara<:t 
between  yourself  and  Moss  Island  is  called  the  Hermit'3 
Cascade,  from  its  having  been  the  usual  bathing  place 
of  Francis  Abbot,  the  Hermit  of  Niagara. 

THE  HERMIT  OF  THE  FALLS. 

As  we  think  it  will  be  interesting,  we  shall  relate  the 
story  of  this  strange  person.  About  twenty-five  y'!ars 
ago,  in  the  glow  of  early  summer,  a  young  stranger  of 
pleasing  countenance  and  person  made  his  appearance 
at  Niagara.  It  was  at  first  conjectured  that  he  was  an 
artist,  a  large  portfolio,  with  books  and  musical 
instruments,  being  among  his  baggage.  He  was  deeply 
impressed  with  the  majesty  and  sublimity  of  the 
Cataract  and  the  surrounding  scenery,  and  expressed 
an  intention  to  remain  a  week,  that  ^e  might  survey 
them  at  his  leisure.  But  the  fascination  svhich  all  minds 
of  sensibility  feel  when  in  the  presence  of  that  glorious 
work  of  the  Creator  grew  strongly  upon  him,  and  he 
was  heard  to  say  that  six  weeks  were  insufficient  to 
become  acquainted  with  its  beauties.  At  the  end  of 
that  period  he  was  still  unable  to  tear  himself  away,  and 
desired  to  "build  there  a  tabernacle,"  that  he  might 
indulge  in  his  love  of  solitary  musing  and  admire  at 
leisure  the  sublimity  of  nature.  He  applied  for  a  spot 
on  the  Three  Sisters  Island  on  which  to  erect  a  cottage 
after  his  own  model ;  one  of  the  peculiarities  of  which 
10 


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146        Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


liii  'it". 


ft . 


was  a  drawbridge  to  ensure  isolation.  Circumstances 
forbidding  compliance  with  this  request,  he  took  up  his 
residence  in  an  old  house  on  Iris  Island,  which  he 
rendered  as  comfortable  as  the  state  of  the  case  would 
admit.  Here  he  remained  about  eighteen  months,  when 
the  intrusion  of  a  family  interrupted  hb  habits  of 
seclusion  and  meditation.  He  then  quietly  withdrew,  and 
reared  for  himself  a  less  commodious  habitation  near 
Prospect  Point.  When  winter  came,  a  cheerful  fire  of 
wood  blazed  upon  the  hearth,  and  he  beguiled  the  long 
hours  of  evening  with  reading  and  music.  It  was  strange 
to  hear  in  such  solitude  the  long-drawn  thrilling  notes  of 
the  violin,  or  the  softer  melody  of  the  fiute,  gushing 
forth  from  that  low-browed  hut ;  or  the  guitar  breathing 
out  so  lightly  amid  the  rush  and  thunder  of  the  never 
slumbering  torrent.  Though  the  world  of  letters  was 
familiar  to  his  mind,  and  the  living  world  to  his  observa- 
tion, for  he  had  travelled  widely  both  in  his  native  Europe 
and  the  East,  he  sought  not  association  with  mankind  to 
unfold,  or  to  increase  his  store  of  knowledge.  Those 
who  had  occasionally  conversed  with  him  spoke  with 
equal  surprise  and  admiration  of  his  colloquial  powers, 
his  command  of  lanfguage,  and  his  fervid  eloquence ;  but 
he  seldom  and  sparingly  admitted  this  intercourse, 
studiously  avoiding  society,  though  there  seemed  in  his 
nature  nothing  of  misanthropy  or  moroseness ;  on  the 
contrary,  he  showed  kindness  to  even  the  humblest 
animal.  Birds  instiiictively  learned  this  amiable  trait  in 
his  character,  and  freely  entered  his  dwelling,  to  receive 
from  his  hands  crumbs  or  seeds. 

But  the  absorbing  delight  of  his  solitary  residence  was 
communion  with  Niagara.     Here  he  might  be  seen  at 


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148       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

every  hour  of  the  day  or  night,  a  fervent  worshipper. . 
At  the  gray  dawn  he  went  to  visit  it  in  the  veil  of  mist ; 
at  noon,  he  banqueted  in  the  full  splendor  of  its  glory ; 
beneath  the  soft  tinting  [of  the  lunar  bow  he  lingered; 
looking  for  the  angel  whose  pencil  had  painted  it ;  and 
at  solemn  midnight  he  knelt  at  the  same  shrine. 
Neither  the  storms  of  autumn  nor  the  piercing  cold  of 
winter  prevented  his  visits  to  the  temple  of  his  adora- 
tion. There  was  at  this  time,  an  extension  of  the 
Terrapin  Bridge,  by  a  single  beam  of  timber  carried  out 
ten  feet  over  the  fathomless  abyss,  where  it  hung 
tremulously,  guarded  only  by  a  rude  parapet  Along 
this  beam  he  often  passed  and  repassed  in  the  darkness 
of  night  He  even  took  pleasure  in  grasping  it  with  his 
hands,  and  thus  suspending  himself  over  the  awful  gulf ; 
so  much  had  his  morbid  enthusicism  taught  him  to  revel 
amid  the  terribly  sublime.  Among  his  favorite 
gratifications,  was  that  of  bathing,  in  which  he  indulged 
daily. 

On  a  bright  but  rather  chilly  day  in  the  month  of  June, 
183 1,  a  man  employed  about  the  ferry  saw  him  go  into 
the  water,  and  for  a  long  time  after  observed  his  clothes 
to  be  still  lying  upon  the  bank.  The  poor  hermit  had 
taken  his  last  bath.  It  was  supposed  that  cramps  might 
have  been  induced  by  the  chill  of  the  atmosphere,  or  the 
water.  Still  the  body  /was  not  found,  the  depth  and 
force  of  the  current  below  being  exceedingly  great  In 
the  course  of  their  search  they  passed  on  to  the  Whirl- 
pool. There,  amid  those  boiling  eddies,  was  the  body, 
making  fearful  and  rapid  gyrations  upon  the  face  of  the 
black  waters.  At  some  point  of  suction  it  suddenly 
plunged    and    disappeared.      Again   emerging,   it   was 


n  *•   . 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        149     >^  #,|1^' 

fearful  to  see  it  leap  half  its  length  above  the  flood,  then 
float  motionless  as  if  exhausted,  and  anon  spring  upward 
and  seem  to  struggle  like  a  maniac  battling  with  a 
mortal  foe.  For  days  and  nights  this  terrible  scene  was 
prolonged.  It  was  not  until  the  21st  of  June,  that  after 
many  efforts  they  were  able  to  recover  the  body  and 
bear  it  to  his  desolate  cottage.  There  they  found  his 
faithful  dog  guarding  the  door.  Heavily  had  the  long 
period  worn  away  while  he  watched  for  his  only  friend* 
and  wondered  why  he  delayed  his  coming.  He 
scrutinized  the  approaching  group  suspiciously,  and 
would  not  willingly  have  given  them  admittance.  A 
stifled  wail  at  length  showed  his  intuitive  knowledge  of 
his  master,  whom  the  work  of  death  had  effectually 
disguised  from  the  eyes  of  man.  On  the  pillow  was  his 
pet  kitten,  and  in  different  parts  of  the  room  were  his 
guitar,  flute,  violin,  portfolio  and  books  scattered,  the 
books  open  as  if  recently  used.  It  was  a  touching 
sight ;  the  hermit  mourned  by  his  humble  retainers,  the 
poor  animals  that  loved  him,  and  the  body  ready  to  be 
laid  by  strange  hands  in  a  foreign  grave. 

The  motives  that  led  this  singular  and  accomplished 
being,  learned  in  the  languages,  in  the  arts  and  sciences, 
improved  by  extensive  travel,  and  gifted  with  personal 
beauty  and  a  feeling  heart,  to  seclude  himself  in  the 
flower  of  youth  from  human  society,  are  still  enveloped 
in  mystery.  All  that  is  known  is  that  his  name  was 
Francis  Abbott,  that  he  was  a  native  of  England,  where 
his  father  was  a  clergyman,  and  that  he  received  from 
thence  ample  remittances  for  his  comfort.  These  facts 
had  been  previously  ascertained,  but  no  written  papers 
were  found  in  his  cell  to  throw  additional  light  upon  the 


♦iS-i'  ' 


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150       AlURound  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

obscurity,  in  which  he  has  so  effectually  wrapped  the 
history  of  his  pilgrimage. 

THE  THREE  SISTER  BRIDGES. 

These  costly  and  substantial  structures  are  built  over 
the  three  channels  which  separate  the  Three  Sisters  from 
each  other  and  from  Goat  Island,  presenting  new  and 
grand  views  of  the  Rapids  and  Falls,  unequalled  from 
any  other  point  These  three  bridges  combine  strength 
and  beauty.  They  are  alike,  being  slightly  convex,  that 
is,  higher  in  the  middle  than  at  either  end,  thus  adding 
to  their  strength.  \ 

The  ends  are  fastened  into  the  solid  rock.  Two  rods, 
two  inches  in  diameter,  pass  under  each  bridge,  and  are 
also  fastened  into  the  rocks  at  either  end.  The  peculiar 
construction  of  the  railing  adds  much  to  their  strength 
and  beauty.  A  fourth  island,  or  sister,  was  discovered 
while  the  bridges  were  being  built ;  to  it,  a  bridge  has 
also  been  thrown.  From  the  head  of  the  third  sister 
may  be  seen  one  continuous  Cascade  or  Fall,  extending 
as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  from  Goat  Island  across  to 
the  Canada  shore,  varying  from  ten  to  twenty  feet  in 
lieight  From  this  minature  Niagara  rises  a  spray 
similar  to  that  of  the  great  Falls.  The  Rapids  here 
descend  fifty-one  feet  in  three-quarters  of  a  mile,  and 
they  are  one  of  the  prominent  features  of  Niagara. 

Viewed  from  the  Bridge  they  look  like  "  a  battle-charge 
of  tempestuous  waves,  animated  and  infuriated,  against 
the  sky."  As  they  pass  towards  the  falls  the  commotion 
becomes  more  deeply  intense,  and  they  struggle  as  if 
desiring  to  escape  the  tremendous  abyss  into  which  they 
are  about  to  be  hurled.     Suddenly,  as  they  approach 


« . 


M. 


All-Rmnd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        151 


the  verge,  resignation  seems  to  come  over  them,  and  in 
apparent  calmness  they  accept  their  fate,  and  in  an 
instant  pass  beyond  our  view. 

It  is  now  nearly  200  years  since  the  eye  of  the  Euro- 
pean first  saw  these  wonderful  rapids  and  falls.  Father 
Hennepin,  in  1678,  was  conducted  by  the  Indians  to  this 
spot,  and  there  beheld  the  "  wonder  of  the  world.*'  For 
ages  before  his  visit,  and  for  nearly  two  centuries  since, 
the  mighty  river  has  continued  to  flow  in  "  floods  so 
grand  and  inexhaustible,  as  to  be  utterly  unconscious  of 
the  loss  of  the  hundred  millions  of  tons,  which  they 
pour  every  hour  over  the  stupendous  precipice." 

"  Still  do  these  waters  roll,  and  leap,  and  roar,  and 
"  tumble  all  day  long  ;  still  are  the  rainbows  spanning 
"  them  a  hundred  feet  below.  Still,  when  the  sun  is  on 
"  them,  do  they  shine  and  glow  like  molten  gold.  Still, 
"  when  the  day  is  gloomy,  do  they  fall  like  snow,  or  seem 
"  to  crumble  away  like  the  front  of  a  great  chalk  cliff,  or 
"  roll  down  the  rock  like  dense  white  smoke.  But  always 
**  does  the  mighty  stream  appear  to  die  as  it  comes  down, 
"  and  always  from  the  unfathomable  grave  arises  that 
"  tremendous  ghost  of  spray  and  mist  which  is  never 
"  laid,  which  has  haunted  this  place  with  the  same  dread 
"  solemnity  since  darkness  brooded  on  the  deep,  and  that 
"  first  flood  before  the  deluge — Light — came  rushing  on 
**  creation  at  the  Word  of  God." 

Luna  Island  is  beautifully  placed  just  in  the  very 
curve  of  the  fall.  This  island,  as  it  appears  in  its  summer 
as  well  as  its  winter  dress,  is  graphically  described  in 
*'  Picturesque  America,"  from  which  we  quote  as  follows ; 
"  It  is  pleasant  enough  in  summer,  for  it  has  evergreens, 
trees,  and  bushes,  grasses  and  wild  flowers  in  abundance, 


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152       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 

the  atmosphere  of  spray  by  v/hich  it  is  surrounded  being^ 
apparently  favorable  to  vegetation.  At  night  time,  when 
there  is  a  moon,  a  fine  lunar  bow  is  visible  f>om  the 
bridge  that  connects  it  with  Goat  Island,  and  hence  it« 
name.  But  the  great  glory  of  Lana  Island  ib  in  the 
winter,  when  all  the  vegetation  is  encrusted  with  frozen 
spray.  The  grasses  are  no  loiiger  ma^Jsed  in  tufts,  but 
each  particular  blade  is  sheathed  in  a  scabbard  of  dia- 
mond;;, and  flashes  radiantly  at  every  motion  of  the  wind. 
Every  tiee,  according  to  its  foliage,  receives  the  frozen 
masses  differer/cly.  Tn  some,  especially  evergreens,  with 
pinnatified  leaves,  each  separate  needle  is  covered  with 
a  fine  coating  of  dazzling  white.  In  others,  where  the 
boughs  and  branches  are  bare,  the  spray  lodges  upon  the 
twigs,  and  gives  to  the  eye  cubes  of  ice  that  greatly 
resemble  the  uncouth  joints  of  the  cactus.  In  some 
evergreens  the  spray  being  rejected  by  the  oleaginous 
particles,  forms  in  apple-like  balls  at  the  extremities  of 
the  twigs  and  the  nooks  of  the  branches.  Those  close 
to  the  verge  of  the  fall  are  loaded  so  completely  with 
dazzling  heaps  of  collected  frozen  spray  that  the  branches 
often  give  way,  and  the  whole  glittering  heap  comes 
Bashing  down  in  crumbUng  ruin.  On  the  ground  the 
spray  falls  in  granulated  circular  drops  of  opaque  white ; 
but,  wherever  there  is  a  stone  or  a  boulder,  ice  is  massed 
about  it  in  a  thousand  varying  shapes.  Let  us  peep 
down  from  the  verge,  and  regardless  of  the  noise  and 
the  smoke  of  the  waterfall,  give  our  attention  solely  to 
the  ice.  It  stretches  in  great  columns  from  the  top  to 
the  bottom  of  the  falls,  and  a  colonnade  is  formed,  such 
as  one  reads  of  in  the  fantastic  stories  of  the  East,  where 
alabaster  and  marble,  jade  and  porphyry,  are  carried  to 


Ah 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.        153 

the  skies  in  the  tremendous  palaces  of  pre- Adamite 
kings.  The  frozen  spray  descending  upon  these,  covers 
them  with  a  delicate  tracery  of  flowers  and  ferns,  and 
even  of  resemblance  to  human  heads,  which  is  a 
beautiful  and  strange  sight. 

"  In  winter  time  we  may  not  descend  on  the  American 
side;  but,  if  we  might,  surely  we  should  discern  the 
most  wondrous  ice  configurations  along  the  verge  of  the 
pathway.  The  descent  can  be  made  at  this  time  under 
the  Table  Rock  ;  and  the  visitor  passes  from  the  stair- 
ways into  a  defile  of  the  kind  that  Dante  dreamed  of  in 
his  frozen  Bolgia.  Along  the  side  of  the  rock  walls  are 
rows  of  stalactites,  about  the  size  of  the  human  body,  to 
which  all  of  them  bear  a  quaint  resemblance.  Upon 
the  other  side,  massed  along  the  verge  of  the  bank,  are 
ice  heaps  that  mount  up  fifty  feet  into  the  troubled  air, 
some  of  them  partially  columnar  in  shape,  but  the 
majority  looking  like  coils  of  enormous  serpents  that 
have  been  changed  by  the  rod  of  the  enchanter  into 
sullen  ice. 

"  It  must  be  remembered  that,  if  winter  gives  much, 
it  also  takes  away  much.  If  it  covers  the  trees  and  the 
grass  with  diamonds,  and  heaps  up  ice-serpents,  and 
builds  colonnades  and  spires  stnd  obelisks,  it  takes  away 
a  great  .  part  of  the  volume  of  the  water,  for  the 
thousand  rills  that  feed  the  great  lakes  have  been  rent 
from  the  hills  by  the  fierce  hand  of  the  frost  giant,  and 
clank  around  his  waist  as  a  girdle.  Those  who  love 
color  and  light,  and  majesty  of  sound,  will  do  well  to 
come  in  the  summer ;  those  who  like  the  strange,  the 
fantastic,  and  the  fearful,  must  come  in  the  winter.  But 
the  true  lover  of  the  picturesque  in  Nature,  will  come  at 


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154       All'Rmnd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

both  times.  Each  has  its  special  charm ;  each  has 
some  thing  which  the  other  lacks ;  but  in  both  are 
features  of  transcendent  beauty." 

We  shall  now  conduct  our  tourist  to  one  spot  on  the 
Canadian  side  where,  perhaps  of  all  others,  the  finest 
view  of  the  watt  falls  can  be  seen.  It  is  along  the 
railway  track  that  lies  at  the  back  of  Mr.  Zimmerman's 
house,  where  an  open  spot  is  reached,  near  a  small 
reservoir  immediately  above  the  Falls.  From  this  point 
of  observation  a  scene  is  presented  of  such  grandeur  and 
magnificence,  that  our  language  would  almost  seem  too 
meagre  to  furnish  the  words  necessary  to  adequately 
describe  it  As  we  gaze  we  realize  to  some  slight  extent 
the  tremendous  power  of  the  fall  as  well  as  its  height. 
A  celebrated  English  visitor  at  this  spot  expresses  his 
admiration  in  the  following  terms  :  "  I  now  caught  my 
first  sight  of  that  wondrous  vision  which  is  worth  a 
pilgrimage  from  England  to  see.  I  have  since  had  an 
opportunity  of  making  it  a  study,  and  my  conviction  is 
that  if  there  is  anything  in  the  world  which  defies  at 
once  description  and  analysis,  and  which  excites  in  the 
beholder  by  turns,  ideas  of  grandeur,  beauty,  terror, 
power,  sublimity,  it  is  expressed  in  that  one  word — 
Niagara.  J.  have  seen  it  in  the  most  of  its  summer 
aspects.  I  have  gazed  upon  the  marvellous .  panorama 
from  the  rapids  above,  to  the  whirlpool  below.  I  have 
looked  up  to  it  from  the  river,  and  down  upon  it  from 
the  Terrapin  tower.  I  have  bathed  in  its  light,  and 
been  drenched  with  its  spray.  I  have  dreamed  over  it 
through  the  hot  afternoon,  and  have  heard  it  thunder  in 
the  watches  of  the  night.  On  all  the  headlands,  and  on 
all  the  islands,  I  have  stood  entranced  and  wondering. 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


155 


while  the  mist  has  shrouded  it,  and  while  the  sun  has 
broken  it  into  rainbows,  I  have  seen  it  fleecy  as  the 
snowflake ;  deepening  into  the  brightest  emerald ;  dark 
and  leaden  as  the  angriest  November  sky, — but  in  all  its 
moods  there  is  instruction,  solemnity,  delight.  Stable  in 
its  perpetual  instability ;  changeless  in  its  everlasting 
change ;  a  thing  to  be  '  pondered  in  the  heart,'  like  the 
revelation  to  the  meek  Virgin  of  old  ;  with  no  pride  in 
the  brilliant  hues  that  are  woven  in  its  eternal  loom ; 
with  no  haste  in  the  majestic  roll  of  its  waters  ;  with  no 
weariness  in  its  endless  psalm — it  remains  through  the 
eventful  years  an  embodiment  of  unconscious  power,  a 
living  inspiration  of  thought,  and  poetry,  and  worship, — 
a  magnificent  apocalypse  of  God." 

TO  DETROIT  AND  CHICAGO. 

FROM  NIAGARA  FALLS,  VIA  HAMILTON,  PARIS   AND   LONDON,  BY   THK  GREAT 
WESTERN  AND  BaOHIGAN   CENTRAL   RAILWAYS. 

\S  in  all  likelihood  many  of  our  tourists  who  have 
never  visited  these  large  Western  cities,  may 
■^^S*  desire  whilst  at  Niagara  to  take  a  run — even  if 
only  for  a  brief  period — to  the  principal  business 
localities  in  the  Western  States,  we  have  thought  it 
desirable  to  refer  to  them  as  they  will  amply  compensate 
for  any  time  spent  in  visiting  them,  and  really  ought  to 
be  seen  by  all  those  who  consider  themselves  travelers. 
A  few  hours  ride  over  the  Great  Western  Railway,  from 
Suspension  bridge,  through  a  pleasant  country  around 
Thorold,  the  crossing  point  of  the  great  Welland  Ship 
Canal  recently  deepened,  and  we  come  to  St.  Catharines, 
with  a  population  of  11,000,  pleasantly  situated, 
frequented  as  a  place  of  resort  for  invalids,  from  Canada 


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156        All-Rouud  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 

and  the  United  States,  and  noted  for  its  mineral  springs 
of  much  efficacy.  Thence  passing  Grimsby,  situated 
near  the  shore  of  Lake  Ontario,  we  arrive  at  the 
beautiful 

CITY  OF  HAMILTON. 


^vBT^HIS  city  was  laid  out  and  settled  in  181 3.  It  is 
^M  built  on  a  plateau  of  slightly  elevated  ground, 
^Iff  winding  around  the  foot  of  a  hilly  range,  which 
extends  from  Niagara  Falls,  and  which  here  receives  the 


i!-ja>£.i.*4^'» 


OITT   OF  HAMILTON,   SHOWINQ   THE   OORB   ON   KINQ   STREBT. 

name  of  "The  Mountain."  The  streets  are  wide,  and 
for  the  most  part  cross  each  other  at  right  angles.  King 
street,  the  principal  thoroughfare,  runs  through  the  entire 
breadth  of  the  city.  Near  the  centre  of  this  street  is  a 
large  open  space  known  as  "The  Gore,"  and  a  little  north 
is  Market  Square,  on  which  stands  the  spacious  public 
building  used  cis  civic  offices  and  a  market  The  banks 
and  many  of  the  churches  are  handsome  structures,  and 


■j:       ft. 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.        157 

on  the  rising  ground  approaching  the  mountain  are  many- 
elegant  residences.  The  city  contains  about  25  churches, 
several  banks,  a  (Wesleyan)  Female  College,  and  a  large 
number  of  manufactories.  Hamilton  is  the  headquarters 
of  the  Great  Western  Railway  of  Canada,  and  here  the 
general  offices,  engine  shops  and  workshops  are  located. 
The  population  of  the  city  is  about  27,000,  and  the  city 
is  43  miles  from  Suspension  Bridge  and  187  miles  east 
from  Detroit. 

At  Hamilton,  connection  is  made  for  Toronto  and  all 
the  eastern  Canadian  cities ;  via  the  Toronto  Branch  of 
the  Great  Western  Railway ;  also  by  the  Richelieu  and 


Ontario  Navigation  Company's  Royal  Mail  line  of 
Steamers  on  the  Lake,  for  Toronto  and  all  points  east. 
Continuing  our  journey  we  pass  west  from  Hamilton 
seven  miles,  to  Dundas,  with  many  manufactures  and 
very  fine  scenery.  From  here  the  country  thiough 
which  the  train  passes  is  unimportant,  until  arriving  at 
Harrisburg,  where  connections  are  made  northward  by 
the  Grand  Trunk  Railroad  to  Berlin,  Guelph  and  to  Paris, 
which  is  a  thriving  town  with  important  water  power  and 
manufactories  of  various  kinds.  Here  connections  are 
made  north-westward  to  Goderich  and  Lake  Huron ; 
south-eastward  to  Buffalo,  by  Goderich  branch  of  the 
Grand   Trunk  Railroad.      Travelling  forty-seven  miles 


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158       Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

west  from  Paris,  through  a  fine  agricultural  district,  in 
which  the  scenery  is  pleasantly  diversified,  our  olfactory 
nerves  become  indicators  of  the  presence  of  an  industry 
— petroleum  refining — which  is  extensively  engaged  in 
in  that  part    This  brings  us  to  the  beautiful 


CITY  OF  LONDON,  FROM  THE  TOWER  OF  ENGLISH   CATHEDRAL. 

CITY   OF  LONDON, 

One  hundred  and  nineteen  miles  west  from  Suspension 
Bridge,  and  one  hundred  and  ten  miles  east  of  Detroit, 
with  a  population  of  30,000.  It  is  situated  in  the  midst 
of  the  finest  agricultural  region  of  Canada.  It  is  the 
centre  of  several  diverging  lines  of  railway.  It  is  favor- 
ably known  for  its  White  Sulphur  Springs  and  its 
extensive  manufactures.  The  streets  and  many  of  the 
public  buildings,  are  called  by  the  same  names  as  those 
of    old    London.     The   little   stream   which   passes,    is 


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AU-Raund  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        159 

dubbed  the  Thames,  and  Westminster  and  Blackfriars 
Bridges  lead  us  across  its  narrow  line.  The  public 
buildings  are  very  fine,  and  its  numerous  churches  are 
choice  in  architectural  design. 

London  has  made  many  fine  improvements  during 
the  past  three  years  which  are  worthy  of  notice, 
especially  the  new  water-works,  which  are  located  about 
five  miles  below  the  city  on  the  River  Thames.  London 
has  also  a  new  gas  company,  which  has  been  chartered 
during  the  past  year,  so  the  city  is  now  lighted  with  gas 
at  about  half  the  price  of  any  city  in  the  Dominion.  A 
Company  has  also  been  formed,  for  heating  all  the 
business  houses  as  well  as  private  dwellings  with  steam. 
London  has  important  railway  connections : — North- 
ward to  St.  Marys,  via  the  Grand  Trunk  Railroad  ; 
southward  to  Port  Stanley  on  Lake  Erie ;  westward  to 
Petrolia  (Oil-Centre),  and  Port  Sarnia,  at  the  entrance  of 
the  St.  Clair  River,  into  Lake  Huron. 

A  further  ride  of  1 10  miles  will  bring  the  tourist  to 
the  town  of  Windsor,  in  Canada,  and  a  few  minutes 
more  occupied  in  crossing  the  river  by  the  Steam  Ferry 
will  land  him  in  the  City  of  Detroit  and  Michigan 
Central  Depot,  where  direct  connections  are  made  for  the 
West,  North  and  North-West,  and  all  points  in 
Michigan,  by  the  popular  Michigan  Central  Railway. 

CITY  OF  DETROIT. 

«|ETROIT  is  one  of  the  oldest  cities  on  the 
continent,  having  been  founded  as  a  French 
^^  Missionary  Station  in  1670.  The  city,  which  is 
known  as  the  "  City  of  the  Straits,"  extends  along  the 
Detroit   River  for  about  3   miles,  and  is  built  up  about 


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1 60       All-P.ound  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,  ' 

2^  miles  from  the  water.  The  streets  are  wide  and 
beautifully  shaded  by  trees.  The  churches  are 
numerous,  and  in  many  instances  very  beautiful;  the 
private  residences  are  surrounded  by  spacious  grounds, 
tastefully  ornamented,  and  the  stores  and  public 
buildings  are  metropolitan  in  size  and  appearance.  The 
principal  buildings  worthy  a  visit  are  the  Custom  House 
and  Post  Office  on  Griswold  street.  The  Board  of 
Trade  Building  and  the  Michigan  Central  Freight 
Depot  should  by  all  means  be  seen.  It  is  of  immense 
size  and  costly  construction,  1,250  feet  long  and  102 
wide,  is  an  immense  room  witheut  partitions  or  pillars, 
and  is  covered  l!)y  a  self-supporting  iron  roof.  Here  is 
also  located  the  great  Locomotive  Round  House,  also 
large  Grain  Elevators.  The  new  Opera  House  is  like- 
wise worthy  of  inspection.  The  most  notable  churches 
are  St.  Pauls  (Episcopal),  with  the  peculiarity  of  having 
a  roof  without  columns ;  Christ,  St.  John's  and  Grace, 
all  of  the  same  denomination  ;  Fort  Street  Presbyterian  ; 
Central  Methodist  (Episcopal) ;  St.  Paul  (Catholic)  ;  St. 
Anne's  (Catholic),  with  very  fine  choir,  etc.  Detroit  has 
also  elaborate  water-works,  as  well  as  large  manufactur- 
ing and  shipping  interests  in  grain  and  provisions,  etc. 
Detroit  is  always  a  pleasant  place  to  visit.  In  summer, 
pleasure  excursions  are  a  daily  occurrence,  and  the 
beautiful  river  affords  ample  opportunity  for  the  members 
of  the  Detroit  "  River  Navy,"  with  its  fleet  of  a  couple 
of  hundred  yachts,  to  exercise  before  the  gaze  of 
assembled  thousands  on  the  shore,  who  gather  to  witness 
the  grand  "  Reviews  "  each  season.  We  would  advise 
the  tourist  to  visit  the  pretty  Cemetery  and  the  outskirts 
of  the  city,  which  in  all  directions  are  very  fine,  and  will 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.        i6i 

well  repay  a  drive,  or  a  long  "  constitutional."  As 
regards  hotel  accommodation,  we  can  recommend  the 
"  Russell  House,"  on  Woodward  Avenue,  as  a  first-class 
hotel,  containing  all  modern  improvements,  with  every 
comfort  required  by  the  most  fastidious.  -'^      ' 

DETROIT  TO  CHICAGO. 

^^HE  Tourist  having  finished  his  sojourn  at  Detroit, 
l^M  the  next  place  he  will  wish  to  visit  is  the  "New 
^pUP  York"  of  the  West.  Probably,  most  of  our 
pleasure-seekers  may  have  already  visited  the  Lion  City, 
but  to  those  who  have  not  made  the  journey  within  the 
last  few  years,  we  would  advise  them  by  all  means  to 
extend  their  absence  from  home  for  at  least  a  few  days, 
and  go  and  see  the  march  of  progress  being  made  by 
our  western  friends.  Taking  the  splendidly  equipped 
train  of  the  Michigan  Central  Railway  from  the  Union 
Depot  at  Detroit,  and  after  ten  hours  of  as  comfortable 
traveling,  over  one  of  the  finest  road-beds,  with  well 
ballasted  track,  laid  with  steel  rails,  as  can  be  obtained 
on  the  continent,  you  will  find  yourself  in  Chicago. 

Leaving  Detroit  by  this  popular  route  the  train  passes 
through  the  suburbs  of  this  beautiful  city  for  a  distance 
of  three  miles  to  Grand  Trunk  Junction,  where 
connections  are  made  with  the  Grand  Trunk,  and 
Detroit  branch  of  the  Lake  Shore  and  Michigan 
Southern  Railways.  Seven  miles  west  we  pass  Dear- 
born, where  the  Detroit  Arsenal  is  situated  near  Rough 
River.  The  next  place  of  importance  to  the  traveler  is 
Ypsilante,  thirty  miles  west  from  Detroit,  which  is  a 
beautiful  town  of  Michigan,  having  a  population  of 
5,500;     here    is    located    the    State    Normal    School. 

II 


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162       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 

Passing  along  the  Huron  River  for  a  distance  of  eight 
miles  we  arrive  at  Ann  Arbor,  which  is  a  very  large  and 
handsome  town  of  8,500  inhabitants,  finely  situated  on 
an  elevated  plateau,  with  beautiful  shrubbery  and  many 
handsome  buildings ;  the  University  of  Michigan  is 
located  here  and  is  an  institution  of  wide  influence,  with 
varied  course  of  study  ;  it  contains  a  very  fine 
observatory,  as  well  as  other  attractive  features.  Leav- 
ing this  enterprising  town  we  continue  our  journey  west- 
ward, and  passing  through  a  very  fine  agricultural  section 
of  country  we  find  the  broad  acres  of  Michigan  are  fast 
being  transformed  into  happy  homes  and  finely  cultivated 
farms ;  all  of  the  different  towns  and  villages  through 
which  we  pass  are  growing  fast  both  in  size  and 
influence,  and  the  evidences  of  industry  and  thrift  are 
visible  on  every  hand.  Having  traveled  38  miles  with- 
out stopping,  we  arrive  at  Jackson  79  miles  from  Detroit 
and  208  from  Chicago.  Jackson  has  a  population  of 
16,000,  and  is  a  thriving  and  very  enterprising  city ;  it  is 
the  county  seat  of  Jackson  County,  situated  on  both 
sides  of  the  Grand  River,  at  an  elevation  of  440  feet 
above  Lake  Michigan,  and  has  many  manufactures,  with 
an  important  coal  trade  from  the  mines  in  the  immediate 
neighborhood.  Jackson  has  also  very  extensive  railway 
connections  ;  it  is  the  southern  terminus  of  the  Saginaw 
Division  of  the  Michigan  Central  Railway,  and  the 
south-eastern  terminus  of  the  Grand  Rapids  Division  of 
the  Michigan  Central  Railway:  it  is  also  the  eastern 
junction  of  the  Air  Line  Division  with  the  main  line  of 
Michigan  Central,  as  well  as  the  northern  terminus  of 
Fort  Wayne,  Jackson  &  Saginaw  R.  R. ;  and  the  Lake 
Shore  &  Michigan  Southern  Railway  from  Adrian  make 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        163 

connections  at  this  point.  Leaving  Jackson,  20  miles 
distant,  is  Albion  with  a  population  of  3,cxx) ;  here  the 
Albion  College  is  located.  Twelve  miles  west  of  Albion 
we  arrive  at  Marshall,  where  the  trains  both  east  and  west 
remain  twenty  minutes  for  refreshments — the  meals  first 
class  in  every  respect.  Marshall  has  a  population  of 
3,806,  where  are  located  the  extensive  repair  shops  of 
the  Company  ;  it  also  has  large  paper  manufactories. 
Resuming  our  journey  for  thirteen  miles  we  arrive  at 
Battle  Creek,  an  extensive  manufacturing  town  with  a 
population  of  7,500;  the  extensive  flour  mills  here 
located  are  worthy  of  special  notice  by  the  traveller  ;  here 
is  to  be  seen  one  of  the  finest  water  powers  in  the  State. 
From  Battle  Creek  west,  for  a  distance  of  23  miles,  the 
Michigan  Central  Railway  passes  through  the  very 
garden  of  the  State,  where  are  to  be  seen  some  of  the 
finest  farms,  with  their  golden  fields  of  grain  presenting 
to  the  traveller  a  beautiful  picture,  until  arriving  at 
Kalamazoo,  which  is  one  of  the  larv;;  ;«t  towns  in  the 
State,  with  much  shaded  beauty,  and  has  many  very 
handsome  residences,  and  is  the  seat  of  a  Baptist  College 
and  the  State  Insane  Asylum — on^  of  the  best  managed 
institutions  of  its  kind  in  the  country.  Kalamazoo  is  a 
very  thriving  manufacturing  and  commercial  towr;,  with 
a  population  of  1 1,937,  and  is  144  miles  west  from  Detroit 
and  140  east  from  Chicago,  with  extensive  railway  con- 
nections, north-west  to  Grand  Haven  and  Lake 
Michigan,  also  to  Grand  Rapids ;  south-eastward  to 
Fort  Wayne,  and  from  Kalamazoo  by  Lawton  (with 
extensive  iron  works)  we  arrive  at  Niles,  47  miles  from 
Kalamazoo,  191  miles  from  Detroit,  93  miles  Chicago, 
with  a  population    of  5,000.     Niles  is  a  town  of  con- 


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164       All-Rotmd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

siderable  commercial  and  industrial  importance,  situated 
on  the  St.  Joseph  River;  it  is  the  western  junction  of 
the  Air  Line  of  the  Michigan  Central  Railway,  which 
connects  with  the  main  line ;  it  is  also  the 
northern  terminus  of  the  South  Bend  Division  of 
the  Michigan  Central.  Niles  is  also  the  most 
important  town  in  Berrien  County.  Continuing  our 
journey  still  through  a  beautiful  section  of  country  for  27 
miles,  we  reach  New  Buffalo,  which  is  the  western  terminus 
of  the  Chicago  and  West  Michigan  Railway  ;  at  this  point 
all  trains  of  the  Michigan  Central  Railway  make  close 
connections  for  all  points  on  the  eastern  shore  of  Lake 
Michigan.  New  Buffalo  is  a  modern  town  of  1,450  souls  ; 
from  here  10  miles  further  on  we  pull  up  at  Michigan 
City,  228  miles  from  Detroit  and  56  from  Chicago, 
where  connections  are  made  with  the  Louisville,  New 
Albany  &  Chicago,  also  the  Indianapolis,  Peru  & 
Chicago  Railways.  Michigan  City  is  situated  on  the 
extreme  southern  point  of  Lake  Michigan  ;  it  is  the 
lumber  port  of  Northern  Indiana,  with  a  population  of 
4,ocx) ;  here  is  located  one  of  the  two  Indiana  State 
Prisons.  From  this  important  station  we  hasten  on  our 
journey  to  Chicago,  by  the  town  of  Lake,  21  miles 
distant  from  Michigan  City ;  this  is  the  eastern  terminus 
of  line  to  Joliet ;  21  miles  west  from  here  lies 
Kensington,  where  connection  is  made  with  the  main 
line  of  the  Illinois  Central.  From  Kensington  we  pass 
through  a  fine  section  of  country  over  the  rolling  prairies 
of  Illinois,  on  through  the  suburbs  of  Chicago,  until  we 
arrive  in  the  Union  Depot  at  the  foot  of  Lake  street, 
where  direct  connections  are  made  in  the  same  depot 
for  all  points  west,  east,  north  and  north-west,  south  and 


Ail-Round  Route  and , Panoramic  Guide,        165 

south-west.  The  distance  traveled  between  Detroit  and 
Chicago  by  the  Michigan  Central  Railway,  has  been  284 
miles.  We  now  call  the  tourist's  attention  to  the  most 
enterprising  city  in  America,  and  we  shall  in  the 
following  pages  briefly  endeavor  to  describe  to  our 
readers 

CHICAGO  AS  IT  WAS,  AND  AS  IT  IS. 

[HICAGO  is  in  many  respects  one  of  the  most 
spectacular  cities  in  America ;  its  magnificence  is 
all  the  more  striking  because  it  is  so  young  in 
years,  so  far  in  the  interior,  and  has  passed  through  an 
ordeal  of  fire  which  would  have  ruined  any  other  city 
forever.  It  is  only  strict  truth  to  say  that  the  "  Queen 
of  the  Lakes"  is  more  beautiful  and  splendid  to-day 
than  she  was  at  the  time  of  the  great  conflagration  of 
1 87 1. 

The  first  permanent  settlement  was  made  on  the  site 
of  Chicago  in  1804,  during  which  year  Fort  Dearborn 
was  built  This  was  abandoned  in  18 12,  and  finally 
demolished  in  1856.  The  town  was  first  organized 
in  1833,  and  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1837.  At  the  first 
ofiicial  census,  taken  in  1837,  the  entire  population  was 
set  down  at  4,170.  The  population  by  the  census  of 
1 88 1  is  503,304.  Its  growth  has  been  marvellous  during 
this  brief  interval,  but  it  was  temporarily  checked  by  the 
tremendous  fire  which  occurred  on  the  night  of  October 
8th,  1 87 1.  The  whole  area  burned  over,  including  streets, 
was  nearly  three  and  a  third  square  miles.  The  number 
of  buildings  destroyed  was  17,450;  persons  rendered 
homeless,  98,500;  persons  killed,  about  200.  Not  in- 
cluding depreciation  of  property  and  loss  of  business,  it 


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All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.        167 

is  estimated  that  the  total  loss  occasioned  by  the  fire  was 
$190,000,000,  of  which  about  $40,000,000  was  recovered 
on  insurance,  though  one  of  the  chief  results  of  the  fire 


THE   r.REAT   CUICACO    MASSACRE. 


was  to  bankrupt  many  of  the  insurance  companies,  all 
over  the  country.j^The  business  of  the  city  was  interrupted 
but  a  short  time,  however.     In  the  course  of  a  few  weeks 


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1 68        All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

many  merchants  had  resumed  trade  in  temporary  wooden 
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Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        169 

appearance  of  the  city.     Two  years  later,  in  July,  1874, 
another  great  fire  took  place  in  an  adjoining  section. 


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172       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

and  the  Illinois  and  Michigan  canal,  it  has  continuous 
communication  with  the  Mississippi  River  and  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico  on  the  South  and  West ;  and  by  the  chain  of 
the  Great  Lakes  with  the  St  Lawrence  and  Atlantic 
Ocean  on  the  East  There  is  no  inland  city  in  the  world 
that  possesses  greater  facilities  for  commercial  intercourse. 
The  site  of  the  city  is  a  gently  inclined  plane,  the  ground 
in  the  western  part,  3  miles  from  the  Lake,  being  from 
15  to  18  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Lake.  The  streets 
are  generally  eighty  feet  wide  and  are  very  regularly 
built  They  cross  each  other  at  right  angles,  and  are  for 
the  most  part,  paved  with  stone  or  with  wood ;  many  of 
them  are  from  fivp  to  ten  miles  in  length.  Chicago  is 
divided  by  the  river  and  its  branches,  into  three  parts* 
known  as  the  North,  West,  and  South  sides,  which 
are  connected  by  about  50  bridges,  while  two  stone  tunnels 
connect  the  main  avenues  of  travel  leading  from  the  city 
proper  to  the  northern  and  western  divisions.  These 
divisions  are  subdivided  into  twenty  wards,  and  contain 
nearly  800  streets,  avenues,  and  alleys.  The  river  and 
ship  canals  afford  a  magnificent  harbor  for  the  largest 
vessels,  for  more  than  ten  miles.  At  the  entrance  of  the 
first  there  is  a  lai^e  iron  light-house. 

The  city  is  beautifully  laid  out  in  broad  and  shady 
streets,  the  principal  of  which  for  business  purposes  is 
State  Street,  the  "  Broadway  "  of  Chicago,  while  Michigan 
avenue,  (which  fronts  along  the  Lake),  Wabash  aventie, 
Prairie  avenue.  South  Park  avenue,  West  Washington 
street,  and  North  Dearborn  street,  are  distinguished  by 
the  great  number  of  princely  edifices,  which  are  perfect 
models  of  architectural  design,  and  are  adorned  with  rows 
of  luxuriant  trees.     The  system  of  parks  and  boulevards 


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All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Gutete,        173 

in  Chicago  is  the  most  extensive  of  any  city  in  the  world. 
The  Drexel,  for  instance,  is  200  feet  wide,  from  beginning 
to  end,  jand  is  built  on  the  model  of  the  Avenue  de 
L'Imperatrice,  Paris,  justly  considered  the  finest  boulevard 
in  Europe.  On  South  Water  street  are  situated  the  prin- 
cipal warehouses  and  large  wholesale  stores,  and  in  Lake, 
street  also,  a  large  part  of  the  wholesale  business  is  done, 
while  many  of  the  largest  and  most  elegant  of  the  whole- 
sale houses  are  now  located  on  Michigan  and  Wabash 
avenues,  making  a  gradual  inroad  upon  a  favorite  resi- 
dence locality.  Among  the  objects  of  great  interest  in 
what  the  proud  citizens  call  the  "  new  Chicago,"  may  be 
named  the  large  and  beautiful  Lincoln  Park  situated  on 
the  Lake  shore,  north  of  the  city,  with  its  numerous 
charming  drives  along  the  shores  of  Lake  Michigan,  a 
very  perfect  zoological  garden,  a  charming  little  lake, 
superb  fountains,  making  it  attractive  as  a  drive  or  pro- 
menade. 

Another  favorite  resort  is  Union  Park,  situated  in  the 
western  division,  older  than  Lincoln  Park,  with  beautiful 
lakes,  fountains,  &c,  a  complete  zoolc^ical  collection, 
pagodas,  a  music  pavilion  ;  it  enjoys  great  popularity  as 
a  place  of  promenade,  and  for  the  open  air  concerts  given 
every  evening  during  the  summer.  Besides  the  above 
mentioned  parks  there  is  Lake  Park,  with  a  beautiful  lo- 
cation running  down  the  Lake  shore  south  of  the  city  to 
Hyde  Park  and  Hyde  Park  House,  a  favorite  driving 
and  bathing  resort,  at  the  southern  extremity.  The  south 
and  west  side  parks  are  very  extensive  and  beautiful ; 
Dearborn,  Jefferson,  and  other  minor  parks  and  Haverly's 
Trotting  Park,  are  also  all  well  worthy  of  a  visit.  The 
principal    cemeteries,    Graceland,   Rose   Hill,   Calvary, 


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and  Oak  Woods,  are  beautifully  laid  out  and  kept  in  the 
most  perfect  order,  and  for  those  lugubriously  inclined  a 
visit  to  them  would,  no  doubt,  be  pleasant 

Chicago  is  also  the  greatest  live  stock  market  in  the 
world.  Lying  at  some  distance  west  of  the  city  are  the 
great  Union  Stock  Yards,  which  are  a  wonderful  sight  to 
see,  being  a  little  world  in  themselves.  The  amount  of 
land  controlled  by  the  company  is  345  acres,  of  which  the 
yards  and  pens  occupy  146  acres.  The  present  capacity 
of  these  yards  is  25,000  head  of  cattle,  100,000  head  of 
hogs,  22,000  sheep,  besides  which  there  are  stalls  for  500 
horses,  making  a  total  capacity  of  147,000  head.  Quite 
a  large  town  has  sprung  up  in  the  immediate  vicinity, 
with  post-office,  bank,  telegraph  office,  churches  and 
schools.  The  yards  are  connected  with  all  the  railways 
centreing  in  Chicago. 

The  lumber  trade  of  this  marvellous  city  has  grown  so 
much,  especially  of  late,  that  it  would  perhaps  not  be 
wild  to  assert  that  Chicago  leads  the  world  in  this  branch 
of  business  also.  There  are  over  300  firms  engaged  in  it, 
and  between  fifteen  and  twenty  million  feet  of  lum- 
ber are  annually  handled.  The  great  pineries  of  Michi- 
gan and  Wisconsin  are  the  principal  sources  of  supply. 

Another  of  Chicago's  great  industries  is  that  of  pork 
and  beef  packing,  and  a  special  feature  is  the  great  favor  in 
which  its  summer  packed  meats  have  grown,  both  in  this 
country  and  in  Europe.  The  demand  for  the  latter  is 
steadily  increasing. 

Chicago  is  furthermore  the  greatest  railway  centre  in  the 
world,  some  forty-five  lines  coming  into  the  city.  There  is 
a  dash  of  grandeur  in  almost  everything  in  the  way  of 
public  works,  undertaken  by  Chicago. .  The  Water- works, 

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All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       179 

which  have  been  pronounced  by  those  who  are  ^competent 
to  judge,  to  be  the  finest  and  most  extensive  on  the 
American  Continent,  if  not  in  the  world,  are  a  proof  of 
this.  They  consist  of  a  water  tower,  1 60  feet  high,  up  which 
water  is  forced  by  four  of  the  most  powerful  engines, 
having  a  pumping  capacity  of  74,500,000  gallons  daily. 


OTOOK  l>£h8  AT  UNION  bTUCK  YAJSDS,  CHICAGO. 

The  water  comes  through  a  tunnel  extending  two  miles 
out  under  the  lake,  thus  securing  perfect  purity  to  the 
water,  and  another  tunnel  supplies  the  south-west  portion 
of  the  city.  There  are  also  about  40  Artesian  wells, 
which  yield  an  abundance  of  water. 

The  terrible  experiences  of  the  city  have  prompted 
this    extraordinary    precaution    against    fire,   and    the 


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All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guidi,       i8i 

splendid   building   law   now  in   force   further  provides 
against  the  same,  by  forbidding  the  erection  of  frame 


l^E  NEW   WATFB  WORKS  AND   TOWER,    CHICAGO. 

buildings  of  any  kind,  inside  the  limits  of  the  city.     No 
wooden   cornice  or  wooden  roof  of  any  description  is 


•-  '•■ ' 


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1 82       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide » 


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permitted,  and  no  wooden  building  now  in  existence,  if 
damaged  by  fire  to  the  extent  of  50  per  cent.,  can  be 
repaired. 


CHAMBER   OF  COMMERCE    AND    BOARD   OF   TRADE    BUILDING,    CHICAOO. 

The  public  institutions  of  Chicago  are  in  keeping  with 
its  industrial  and  ccmmercial  standing.  Its  public  schools 
are    surpassed .  by    none   in    the   country,   whether    in 


All-Routtd  Route  and  Pattoramic  Guide,        183 

regard  to  the  beauty  of  the  buildings,  or  the  number  of 
attendants.  Special  pride  has  been  taken  in  this  respect, 
and  it  is  gratifying  to  know  that  Chicago  leads  the  West 
in  its  encouragement  of  popular  education.    The  Public 


Library,  the  nucleus  of  which  was  contributed  by  Eng- 
lish, and  other  authors  of  renown,  in  1872,  now  counts 
over  60,000  volumes,  and  the  Academy  of  Sciences,  which 
had   lost  its  previous  collection  by  the  fire  in  1 871,  is 


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184       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 

now  rapidly  recuperating  both  in  its  museum  and  library ; 
colleges  and  academies  of  different  denominations  are 


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numerous  and  flourishing,  and  the  University  of  Chicago 
has  a  reputation  second  to  none  in  the  West    Asylums 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       185 


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1 86        All-Round  Route  and  Pattoramic  Guide, 

and  hospitals,  devoted  to  the  sufferings  of  humanity  are 
not  only  numerous,  but  carried  on  in  a  style  of  rare  muni^ 
ficence. 

So  much  worthy  of  description  has  crowded  itself 
upon  us,  that  we  have  omitted  to  mention  the  grain  trade 
of  Chicago,  perhaps  the  greatest  industry  of  the  city. 
Chicago  is  not  only  the  headquarters  of  the  grain  trade 
of  America,  but  it  is  also  the  greatest  grain  market  in  the 
world.  It  has  25  elevators,  with  an  aggregate  storage 
capacity  of  20,oc)0,ocx)  bushels  of  grain.  The  speed  and 
dexterity  with  which  vessels  and  cars  are  loaded  and  un- 
loaded is  perfectly  marvellous,  and  no  tourist  should  fail 
to  go  and  watch  tshe  operation  for  a  short  time.  To  see 
how  business  is  done  in  Chicago,  and  to  form  some  idea 
of  the  immensity  of  the  transactions,  the  tourist  should 
by  all  means  pay  a  visit  to  the  Chamber  of  Commerce, 
situated  corner  of  Washington  and  La  Salle  streets.  It 
is  considered  one  of  the  noblest  and  most  complete 
buildings  of  its  class  in  the  world.  It  was  opened  with 
very  impressive  ceremonies  in  the  fall  of  1872,  and 
Chicago  is  justly  proud  of  this  magnificent  structure. 

Chicago  has  many  magnificent  mercantile  buildings, 
banking  houses,  stock  exchange,  &c.,  in  which  respect 
the  re-built  city  far  excels  even  its  ambitious  predecessor, 
and  rivals  all  others. 

With  regard  to  hotels  no  place  in  America  can  vie 
with  Chicago ;  most  of  them  being  built  since  the  fire, 
and  furnished  with  lavish  cost  and  great  completeness. 
There  is  the  Palmer  House,  a  thoroughly  fire-proof  hotel, 
occupying  the  entire  block  in  State  street,  between 
Wabash  Avenue  and  Munroe  street.  The  Grand  Pacific 
is  not  at  all  inferior  to  this,   occupying  a  half  block  on 


:?•  « \ 


All-Round      oute  and  Panoramic  Guide,       187 

Jackson,  Clark,  Adams,  and  La  Salle  streets.  The  New 
Sherman  House,  in  the  central  business  part  of  the  city, 
fronting  on  Clark  and  Randolph  streets,  is  practically 
fire-proof,  and  watched  with  such  unceasing  care,  that  no  ^ 
one  in  any  part  of  the  house  need  feel  the  least  anxiety ; 
practical  experience  has  proved  the  "  Sherman  "  to  be 
satisfactory  in  every  respect 

The  Tremont  House,  styled  the  palace  hotel  of 
Chicago,  is  located  on  the  corner  of  Lake  and  Dear- 
born streets.  This  house  has  the  world-wide  reputation 
of  being  one  of  the  finest  structures  of  its  kind  on  either 
continents,  and  is  considered  one  of  the  features  of  the 
city,  both  in  external  architecture  and  internal  arrange- 
ment ;  it  possesses  all  the  appurtenances  of  many  a 
palace,  with  its  spacious  halls  and  luxurious  suites  of 
apartments,  and  commends  itself  to  travellers  of  either 
continent,  as  a  type  of  that  world-famous  institution,  the 
luxurious  modern  American  Hotel 

The  Gardner  House  is  another  of  Chicago's  favorite 
hotels,  and  for  several  years  past  has  held  the  reputation 
of  being  one  of  the  best  managed  hotels  in  the  Western 
States. 

Chicago  has  many  very  large  and  fine  Railway 
Depots,  for  the  accommodation  of  the  many  and 
extensive  roads  finding  their  centre  there. 

Among  the  extensive  manufactories  may  be  mentioned 
the  McCormack  Reaper  Manufactory,  which  is  the 
largest  of  the  kind  in  the  world,  situated  on  the  corner 
of  Blue  Island  and  Western  avenues,  and  the  extensive 
bridge-building  works  of  the  American  Company, 
situated  on  Egan  avenue. 


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1 88       Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

The  principal  places  of  amusement  are  Haverly's 
Theatre,  corner  of  Dearborn  and  Munroe  streets  ;  Mc- 
Vicker's,  near  the  corner  of  Madison  and  State  streets  ; 
Hooley's,  adjoining  Sherman  House  block  on  Randolph, 
near  La  Salle. 

Chicago  is  not  only  the  terminus  of  the  five  great 
through  trunk  lines,  from  the  Atlantic  sea-board  cities, 
New  York,  Boston,  Montreal,  Philadelphia,  and  Balti- 
more, but  it  is  also  the  head  of  the  several  grand  divi- 
sions viz,  the  Chicago,  Rock  Island,  and  Chicago,  Bur- 
lington and  Quincy,  and  Chicago  and  Northwestern 
Railways,  which  form  the  overland  route  across  the  Great 
West  to  the  Pacific,  as  well  as  of  the  ever  popular 
Chicago,  Alton  &  St  Louis  Railway,  to  St  Louis  and 
Kansas  City,  Mo.,  via  the  Wabash,  St  Louis  &  Pacific 
Railway,  or  the  Missouri  Pacific.  Thence  next  via  either 
the  Kansas  Pacific  Division  of  the  Union  Pacific,  or  via 
the  Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe  Railways  to  all  points 
in  Kansas,  Colorado,  Montana,  Idaho  and  New  Mexico. 

Leaving  Chicago,  if  our  reader  will  kindly  follow  us, 
we  shall  with  pleasure  conduct  him  to  Milwaukee, 
which  may  be  reached  either  by  rail  or  steamer. 


l?»' 


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•'» 


FROM  CHICAGO  TO  MILWAUKEE. 

If  the  tourist  can  spare  the  time  before  returning  to 
the  east,  a  most  enjoyable  and  healthful  trip  may  be 
made  by  taking  the  magnificent  steamers  of  the  Good- 
rich line  to  Milwaukee,  or  by  Railway,  via  the  elegantly 
equipped  trains  of  the  Chicago,  Milwaukee  and  St  Paul 
Railway,  which  is  one  of  the  best  managed  railways  in 
America. 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        189 


CHICAGO  TO  ST.  PAUL  AND  MINNEAPOLIS, 

VIA,  THE  CHICAGO,  MILWAUKEE  AND  ST.  PAUL  R.R. 

[LEEPING  CARS,  between  Chicago  and  St.  Paul, 
fare  $2.cx) ;    between  Milwaukee  and  La  Crosse, 
fare  $1.50 — in  addition  to  railway  ticket     Parlor 
cars  between  Chicago  and  Milwaukee. 

Trains  leave  the  elegant  new  Union  Depot  at  Canal, 
Madison  and  Adams  Streets,  Chicago,  and  sweeping 
through  the  City,  and  passing  through  a  large  manufac- 
turing district,  soon  cross  the  north  suburbs  of  the  city  and 
pass  out  on  the  uneven  wooded  prairie  bordering  Lake 
Michigan.  The  line  traverses  Cook,  Lake,  Kenosha  and 
Racine  counties  in  Illinois,  connecting  at  Western  Union 
Junction,  with  the  Racine  and  Southwestern  Division, 
and  85  miles  from  Chicago  arrives  at  Milwaukee, 

THE  CREAM  CITY  OF  THE  WEST, 

and  another  of  those  wonderful  western  cities  that  have 
sprung  into  marvellous  prosperity  within  the  short  cycle 
of  one  generation.  It  was  settled  in  1835  ;  its  popula- 
tion is  fully  1 50,000,  one  half  of  which  is  German,  and 
the  impress  of  their  peculiar  habits  of  life  is  stamped 
upon  the  place.  Milwaukee  is  a  great  lumber  and  flour 
emporium,  and  its  beer  is  famous.  Among  its  prominent 
public  buildings  are  the  Custom  House,  Court  Houses 
and  National  Asylum  for  disabled  soldiers.  The  streets 
are  broad,  and  generally  shaded.  The  chief  hotels,  are 
the  New  Plankinton  House,  the  Newhall  House,  and  the 
Kirby  House.  The  Plankinton  House  is  not  surpassed 
by  any  house  in  the  State.    From  Milwaukee  to  St  Paul, 


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190       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

the  journey  is  made  by  the  Lacrosse  and  St  Paul  Division 
of  the  Milwaukee  and  St,  Paul  Railway,  which  covers  a 
distance  of  341  miles  in  17  hours  ;  leaving  here  the  St. 
Paul  train  turns  west  from  the  Union  Depot,  Milwaukee, 
crosses  the  Menominee  river,  and  thence  traverses  the 
attractive  park  of  the  National  Soldier's  Home,  with  the 
institution  itself  on  the  north.     At  Brookfield  Junction 
the  Prairie  du  Chien  Division  is  crossed.    The  line  now 
enters  Waukesha  county  which,  alone,  contains   58  of 
the  Wisconsin  lakes.    This  region,  which  is  one  of  the 
most  attractive  in  the  Northwest,  is  much  frequented 
during  the  summer  months.   The  residents  of  the  country 
are  more  than  one-half  foreign.    The  railway  skirts  the 
shores  of  Lakes  Pewaukee  and  Oconomowoc,  and  affords 
a  momentary  view  of  La  Belle  lake.    From  Watertown 
a  branch  line  diverges  south  to  Madison.    Approaching 
Portage   City  the   railway  crosses  the  Portage  Canal, 
connecting  the  Wisconsin  and  Fox  rivers  and  forming  a 
northern  water  communication  between  the  Mississippi 
and  the  lakes.     Father   Marquette,  the  earliest  Jesuit 
explorer,  planted  the  cross  in   1690  on  the  high  ridge 
immediately  north  of  the  railway.   Fort  Winnebago  was 
built  on  the  same  picturesuue  spot  and  garrisoned  in 
1826.    Jefferson  Davis  served  there  as  First  Lieutenant, 
but  as  the  U.  S.  Secretary  of  State,  25  years  after,  he 
ordered  the  fort  to  be  destroyed,  and  the  Government 
reservation  of  4,cxx)  acres  sold.  Passing  Portage  and  the 
pleasant  dining  station,  the  heavily  wooded  banks  of  the 
Wisconsin  are  approached.  The  dells  of  that  river,  which 
are  both  the  wonder  and  the  pride  of  the  State,  are 
above  Kilbourn  City,  where  the  swift  current  has  worn 
and  eaten,  and  undermined  a  passage  through  the  basaltic 


All-Round  Route  afth  Panoramic  Guide,         191 

cHfTs.  The  river  contracts  into  a  foaming  eddying  rapid 
at  the  gap.  The  railway  crosses  the  river  by  a  high 
bridge  which  affords  a  striking  view  of  the  rocky  channel 
and  the  turbulent  rivei  below  the  Delles,  the  latter  being 
accessible  only  by  pleasure  steamer  from  this  point  The 
line  now  traverses  Juneau  county  which  in  point  of 
rugged  beauty  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  in  the 
State.  Crossing  the  Lemonweir  river  near  Mauston,  the 
Necedah  Branch  is  passed  at  New  Lisbon.  The  border 
of  Juneau  county  is  reached  at  Camp  Douglas  Junction, 
where  the  railway  passes  a  somewhat  remarkable  group 
of  rocky  precipices.  Connection  is  made  here  with  the 
Chicago,  St.  Paul,  Minneapolis  &  Omaha  Line.  Tomah 
is  the  Junction  of  the  Green  Bay  &  Minnesota  R.R.  and 
Sparta  (view  of  Castle  Rock  on  the  right),  of  the  Viroqua 
Branch.  Arriving  at  North  LaCrosse,  the  train  runs 
backward  one  mile  to  the  city  of  LaCrosse,  whence  it 
again  turns  west,  crossing  the  Mississippi  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Black  river.  Leaving  the  station  the  train  crosses 
the  Black  and  Mississippi  rivers  by  an  iron  trestle  and 
three  costly  iron  bridges  two  miles  in  length.  La  Cres- 
cent on  the  Minnesota  bank  is  the  northern  terminus  of 
the  Dubuque  Division,  and  the  Junction  of  the  Southern 
Minnesota  line. 

SOUTHERN    MINNESOTA  DIVISION. 

Through  cars  run  via  the  Southern  Minnesota  line 
between  Chicago  (above  route  to  LaCrosse),  and  the 
principal  towns  in  Southern  Minnesota  and  the  Dakota 
frontier.  From  La  Crescent  the  line  traverses  the  rolling 
prairie  of  Houston  county.  Stages  connect  at  Isinour  s 
station  for  Preston,  the  county  capital  and  centre  of  one 


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192       Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


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of  the  largest  wheat  growing  regions  in  the  Northwest 
West  of  Isinour's  the  railway  ascends  the  heaviest  grade 
in  the  State — 520  feet  in  five  miles — from  the  Rum 
River  Valley  to  the  high  prairie  land.  At  Ramsey  con- 
nection is  made  with  the  Iowa  &  Minnesota  Division, 
and  at  Albert  Lea  (on  Lake  Albert  Lea),  with  the  Min- 
neapolis &  St.  Louis  Railway.  Mankato  Branch  diverges 
from  Wells.  Winnebago  is  the  crossing  point  of  the 
Chicago,  St.  Paul,  Minneapolis  &  Omaha  Line.  From 
Fairmont,  Spirit  Lake  and  Esterville  are  reached  by 
stage.  Beyond  Jackson  station  the  railway  passes  the 
scene  of  the  first  fnurders  in  the  Sioux  massacre  of  1862. 
The  train  enters  Dakota  beyond  Pipestone  and  10  miles 
west  reaches  Flandreau,  on  the  Big  Sioux  River  and  592 
miles  from  Chicago. 

Beyond  La  Crescent  the  St.  Paul  train  takes  the  right 
bank  of  the  Mississippi,  following  a  narrow  gallery  at 
the  base  of  rocky  precipices  rising  400  to  600  feet  above 
the  railway.  Passing  Winona  the  train  quits  the  Mis- 
sissippi,traverses  woods  and  meadows  and  passes  stations, 
Minnesota  City,  Minneiska,  Weaver  and  Kellogg  to 
Wabasha  (Zumbrota  Branch  diverges),  beyond  which  it 
returns  to  the  Mississippi  at  the  beautiful  lake-like 
widening  known  as  Lake  Pepin.  The  train  follows  closely 
its  west  shore ;  the  riparian  scenery  is  of  renowned 
attractiveness.  Frontenac,  near  the  head  of  the  lake 
confronts  Maiden  Rock  on  the  east  shore.  Forethought, 
guided  by  good  taste  and  inspired  by  the  beauty  of  the 
Mississippi  valley,  has  designed  this  spot  to  be  one  of 
the  most  charming  summer  resorts  in  the  Northwest. 
At  Hastings,  connection  is  made  with  the  Hastings  & 
Dakota  Division.   The  line  now  recrosses  the  Mississippi. 


All'Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        193 

Beyond  Newport  the  double  spire  of  the  German  Catholic 
Cathedral  at  St  Paul  is  seen  in  advance.  The  train 
traverses  a  broad  valley  and  enters  St  Paul  on  the  levee. 
The  Minneapolis  train  again  crosses  the  river  above 
St  Paul,  pursues  a  sinuous  course  along  its  west  bank, 
running  under  the  walls  of  Fort  Snelling.  After  crossing 
the  broad  and  shallow  Minnesota,  it  passes  within  near 
proximity  to  the  Falls  of  Minnehaha,  and  12  miles  from 
St  Paul,  arrives  at  Minneapolis. 

The  St  Paul  train  follows  the  Mississippi  a  short 
distance,  crossing  it  above  St  Paul,  and  enters  the  town 
under  the  blufifs,  the  terminal  station  being  on  the  levee, 
no  breakage  or  detention  having  been  made  in  the 
journej^.  This  well-equipped  and  popular  railway  over 
which  we  have  journeyed  from  Chicago  and  Milwaukee 
presents  to  the  tourist  some  of  the  most  striking  scenery 
to  be  found  in  the  Great  North-west  Prairie,  lake, 
and  valley  scenery  follow  in  rapid  succession,  so  that 
no  one  becomes  weary  of  the  monotony  of  the  journey. 

St  Paul  is  situated  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the 
Mississippi,  and  its  location  is  admirable.  It  is  an  historic 
spot,  having  been  visited  in  1680,  by  Father  Hennepin,  a 
celebrated  Franciscan  missionary  and  traveller.  It  was  he 
who  discovered  and  named  the  Falls  of  St  Anthony. 
Eighty-six  years  after,  Jonathan  Carver  went  there  and 
made  a  treaty  with  the  Nandowessie  Indians,  in  whait  is 
now  known  as  Carver's  Cave.  In  1 840,  Vital  Guerin  built  a 
log  house,  where  Ingersoll's  HalUtands  at  present  and  in 
the  same  year  Father  Gauthier,  a  Roman  Catholic 
missionary,  arrived  and  built  a  log  church,  which  he 
called  St  Paul's,  and  from  that  was  named  tl?e  Capital  of 
the  State. 

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194       Ail-Round  Route  and  Pauor antic  Guide, 


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Referring  to  the  State  Capital  Building,  it  is  situated 
on  high  ground  and  occupies  an  entire  square  and  is 
built  of  brick.  It  contains  the  State  Offices,  Legislative 
Chambers,  State  Law  Library,  and  the  Collection  of  the 
State  Historical  Society.  There  are  several  large  public 
schools  in  the  city ;  the  State  Reform  School  is  in 
the  suburbs.  St  Paul  Bridge,  1,730  feet  long  is  worth 
seeing.  It  is  of  wood,  resting  upon  stone  piers,  and  is 
an  inclined  plaice  ascending  from  the  high  bluff  at  the 
foot  of  Wabashaw  street  to  the  bottom  lands  of  west  St. 
Paul ;  the  largest  river  steamers  can  pass  under  it  The 
present  population  of  St  Paul  is  45,000.  The  environs 
are  very  picturesque,  including  a  number  of  lalces  and  the 
Minnehaha  Falls,  immortalized  in  Longfellow's  Hia- 
watha. 

Leaving  St  Paul,  a  short  ride  brings  us  to  Minne- 
apolis, which  is  a  thriving  and  beautiful  city  built 
in  sight  of  the  Falls  of  St  Anthony,  with  their  one 
hundred  and  twenty  thousand  horse-power  and  succession 
of  fine  rapids. 

The  city  is  beautiful  and  well  located  for  a  great  manufac- 
turing centre,  which  it  is.  A  fine  suspension  bridge  above 
the  Falls  connects  the  two  parts  of  the  city,  comprising  the 
original  Minneapolis  and  the  former  city  of  St  Anthony, 
now  united.  The  city  itself  is  of  very  fine  appearance, 
with  wide,  clean  streets,  elegant  business  blocks,  hotels 
and  residences,  which,  in  point  of  style  are  nowhere 
excelled. 

We  notice  here  the  same  life  and  activity  found  in  St. 
Paul,  and,  in  fact,  throughout  the  north-western  country. 
Minneapolis  is  the  capital  of  Hennepin  County,  Minne- 
sota, and  has  a  population  of  upwards  of  50,000,     It  is 


feifi  ^L 


Ail-Round  Koute  and  Panoramic  Guide,        195 


420  miles  North-west  from  Chicago,  and  is  one  of  the 
most  populous  and  flourishing  cities  in  the  State.  Among 
its  most  beautiful  and  prominent'buildings  are  the  U.  S. 
Custom  House,  the  Music  Hall  and  Post-office.  Minnea- 
polis is  a  very  large  manufacturing  city,  and  possesses  the 
finest  and  largest  available  water-powerjn  the  world. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Minneapolis  are  a  number  of  very  in- 
teresting attractions;  among  others  the  Silver  Cascade, 
Bridal  Veil  Falls,  a  deep  cone  opposite  the  Falls  of  St. 
Anthony  on  the  east  side,  and  several  beautiful  lakes,  the 
drives  to  which  from  the  city  are  very  pleasant,  the  scenery 
beautiful,  and  the  roads  in  fine  condition.  Among  the 
smaller  lakes  within  easy  reach  of  the  city,  noted  for  their 
beautiful  scenery  and  the  opportunities  they  offer  for  en- 
joyment, are  Harriet,  Cedar,  and  Medecine  lakes.  Fifteen 
miles  from  Minneapolis  is  Lake  Minnetonka — "Big 
water,"  in  the  language  of  the  Sioux, — which,  by  reason 
of  its  extent  and  superior  attractions,  is  becoming  one  of 
the  most  popular  watering-places  in  the  State.  Arriving 
at  Wayzata,  the  railway  station  of  the  St  Paul,  Minnea- 
polis and  Manitoba  Railway  at  the  Lake,  the  attention 
of  visitors  is  attracted  by  the  large  fleet  of  steamers  lying 
at  the  wharves  awaiting  the  arrival  of  the  trains.  These 
steamers  ply  regularly  between  Wayzata  and  the  village 
of  Excelsior,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Lake.  Number- 
less sail  and  row  boats  are  also  on  hand.  This  beautiful 
Lake  is  composed  of  a  series  of  bays,  some  twenty-five 
in  number,  which  form  a  chain  of  what  appears  to  be 
distinct  lakes,  but  they  are  joined  by  estuaries,  many  of 
which  are  navigable  by  the  steamers.  Lake  Minnetonka 
has  long  enjoyed  a  wide  reputation  as  a  resort  for  the 
tourist,  and  particularly  the  sportsman,  drawn  thither  by 


f' 


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196       AU-Routtd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

the  excellent  fishing  and  shooting.  The  hotel  accom- 
modation  is  good  and  ample  for  the  entertainment  of  a 
large  number  of  guests. 

Returning  to  Milwaukee,  the  traveller  can  vary  his 
journey  by  taking  one  of  the  splendid  steamers  of  the 
Goderich  Line  to  Grand  Haven,  and  thence  by  the 
Detroit,  Grand  Haven  &  Milwaukee  Railway  to  Detroit 
From  Detroit  the  Great  Western  Railway  will  convey 
the  tourist  back  to  Suspension  Bridge  (Niagara  Falls). 

Niagara  having  been  already  described,  we  shall 
decide  upon  the  route  to  be  taken  for  Toronto.  There 
are  two  means  of  getting  there,  one  by  water  and  the 
other  by  rail  On  a  sunny,  calm  day,  nothing  can  be 
more  pleasant  than  the  water  excursion,  by  the  mag- 
nificent side-wheel  palace  steamer  "  Chicora,"  which 
daily  makes  two  trips  each  way  across  Lake  Ontaria 
between  Toronto  and  Lewiston.  If  this  route  is  decided 
on,  the  tourist  will  find  the  cars  ready  to  take  him  to 
Lewiston.  From  Niagara  to  Lewiston  the  railway  fol- 
lows the  course  of  the  river,  running  along  the  high  ridge 
overlooking  the  rapid  stream,  until  we  arrive  at  Lewis- 
ton  Station.  Omnibuses  and  cabs  will  be  found  in  at- 
tendance to  take  passengers  down  to  the  steamer,  which 
lies  about  half  a  mile  off.  Another  route  open  to  the 
tourist  is  that  by  the  Canada  Southern  Railroad,  which 
leaves  Fort  Erie,  opposite  Bufifalo,  N.  Y.,  and  skirting  the 
shore  of  the  Niagara  River  runs  past  Niagara  Falls,  and 
terminates  at  the  old  town  of  Niagara,  at  the  mouth  of 
the  river  of  the  same  name,  where  connection  is  made 
with  the  steamer  referred  to,  as  starting  from  Lewiston, 
N.  Y. 


n 


All-Raund  Route  and  Panoramic  Guidt,       197 


LKWISTON. 

[HIS  village  is  situated  at  the  head  of  navigation, 
on  the  lower  Niagara,  and  is  a  place  of  consider- 
able importance.     It  lies  three  miles  below  the 
Devil's  Hole,  and  seven  miles  below  the  Falls. 

It  is  an  exceedingly  pleasant  and  very  well  built 
village,  but  its  commercial  prospects  have  been  very 
much  injured  by  the  construction  of  the  Erie  and 
Welland  Canals.  It  contains,  besides  a  proportionate 
number  of  stores  and  hotels,  churches  of  all  the  various 
denominations,  and  an  academy  of  considerable  size. 
In  181 2,  it  was  the  headquarters  of  General  Van 
Rensselaer,  of  the  New  York  Militia. 

Once  embarked,  we  pass  along  Niagara  River  for 
about  seven  miles,  the  current  still  running  very  rapidly 
until  it  finds  its  way  into  Lake  Ontario, 

At  this  point  the  great  Lake  Ontario  is  reached,  the 
landscape  ends,  and  the  sky  and  the  world  of  waters  are 
all  that  is  seen  of  the  kingdom  of  nature.  It  is  one  of 
the  most  sublime  experiences  of  American  travel,  this 
first  meeting  in  the  heart  of  the  continent,  face  to  face 
with  an  inland  sea ;  and  familiar  as  one  may  be  with  the 
names  of  the  great  lakes,  and  associated  as  they  are  in 
his  mind  with  commerce,  transportation,  and  business, 
the  first  impression  on  the  tourist  is  still  that  made  on 
the  great  discoverer  of  the  source  of  the  Nile  when  the 
dazzling  sheen  of  the  magnificent  Albert-Nyanza  first 
startled  his  triumphant  gaze. 


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198        All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

QUEENSTON. 

This    is    a    small    village    situated    nearly   opposite 
Lewiston,    and    contains    about    500    inhabitants.      It 
was  the   Canadian  termination   of  the  bridge,  and  is 
associated  in  history 
with  the  gallant  de- 
fence  made   by  the 
British   on  the    ad- 
jacent heights  in  the 
war  of  1812.     The 
bridge    here    shown 
was       unfortunately 
carried  away  by  ice  quebnston  suspension  bridge. 

during  the  winter  of  1864.  The  village  is  pleasantly 
situated,  but  it  has  suffered  from  the  same  causes  that  ' 
have  retarded  the  growth  of  Lewiston.  Near  this  point 
the  river  becomes  more  tranquil,  the  shores  appear  less  ^ 
broken  and  wild,  and  the  change  in  the  scenery  affords 
a  pleasing  transition  from  the  sublime  to  the  beautiful. 
The  monument  shown  on  page  199  stands  on  the  Heights 
of  Queenston,  from  whence  the  village  derived  its  name* 
The  present  structure  occupies  the  site  of  the  former  one, 
which  was  blown  up  by  a  miscreant  named  Lett,  on  the 
17th  April,  1840.  The  whole  edifice  is  one  hundred  and 
eighty-five  feet  high.  On  the  sub-base,  which  is  forty 
feet  square  and  thirty  feet  high,  are  placed  four  lions, 
facing  north,  south,  east  and  west ;  the  base  of  the 
pedestal  is  twenty-one  and  a  half  feet  square,  and  ten 
feet  high  ;  the  pedestal  itself  is  sixteen  feet  square,  ten 
feet  high,  surmounted  with  a  heavy  cornice,  ornamented 
with  lion's  heads  and  wreaths,  in  alto-relievo.  In  ascend- 


■  .■•,      •/  r  r- 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        199 

ing  from  the  top  of  the  pedestal  to  the  top  of  the  base 
of  the  shaft,  the  form  changes  from  square  to  round. 
The  shaft  is  a  fluted  column  of  freestone,  seventy-five 
feet  high  and  ten  feet  in  diameter,  whereon  stands  a 
Corinthian  capital,  ten  feet  high,  on  which  is  wrought, 

in  relief,  a  statue  of  the  God- 
dess of  War.  On  this  capital 
is  the  dome,  nine  feet  high, 
which  is  reached  by  250  spiral 
steps  from  the  base  on  the 
inside.  On  the  top  of  the 
dome  is  placed  a  colossal 
statue  of  General  Brock. 

The  only  stoppage  made 
between  Lewiston  and  Tor- 
onto is  at  the  town  of  Nia- 
gara, 16  miles  from  the  Falls. 
Passengers  from  the  Clifton 
House  can  be  brought  by  the 
cars  down  to  this  town  with- 
out crossing  to  the  American 
brock's  monument.  shore,  and  embark  on  board 

the  splendid  steamer  "  Chicora,"  which  here  lies  ready  for 
the  beautiful  trip  across  the  Lake, 

;  V  ■      ..  NIAGARA. 

'^Sfe^HIS  is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  Ontario,  and  was 
m  b  formerly  the  capital  of  the  Province.  It  is  situated 
^/m?  where  the  old  town  of  Newark  stood,  and  is  oppo- 
site to  Youngstown.  It  faces  the  river  on  one  side,  and 
Lake  Ontario  on  the  other.  The  trade  of  this  place  has  been 
largely  diverted  to  St  Catharines  since  the  completion 


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200       All^Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide* 

of  the  Welland  Canal ;  and  the  other  towns  upon  the 
Niagara  River  have  suffered  in  common  from  the  same 
cause.  Its  surroundings  are  full  of  varied  and  historical 
interest.  The  Queen's  Royal  Niagara  Hotel,  under  the 
management  of  Mr.  Winnett  (of  the  firm  of  McGaw  & 
Winnc'tt,  of  the  Queen's  Hotel,  Toronto)  is  open  for 
guests  during  the  summer  season. 

-    j'  •  ';  ■       '  > 

THE  queen's  royal  HOTEL 

Has,  under  the  management  of  Messrs.  McGaw  & 
Winnett,  become  noted  as  a  delightful  Summer  Resort, 
It  has  many  cheerful  surroundings,  being  splendidly 
situated  opposite  Fort  Niagara,  in  a  beautiful  grove  at 
the  mouth  of  Niagara  River,  where  it  debouches  into 
Lake  Ontario,  and  only  fourteen  miles  from  the  world- 
renowned  Niagara  Falls.  Among  the  numerous  places 
of  resort  for  tourists  and  families  who  desire  to  get  away 
from  the  heated  walls  of  our  large  cities,  during  the 
warm  summer  months,  we  know  of  no  better  place  to 
recommend  than  the  Queen's  Royal,  for  it  is  really  a 
delightful  retreat.  Here  will  be  found  a  beautiful 
shelving  beach  extending  for  more  than  a  mile,  making 
the  locality  a  most  desirable  one  for  bathing  ;  dressing- 
rooms  are  located  on  the  beach.  Nor  is  this  all  of  its 
pleasures  ;  here  the  facilities  for  boating  and  fishing  are 
unsurpassed^  as  the  famous  bass  and  pickerel  beds  of  the 
Niagara  River  are  opposite  the  hotels  which  has  ample 
accommodation  for  three  hundred  and  fifty  guests. 
Below  we  present  a  fine  cut  of  the  hotel.  Tourists 
holding  tickets  via  New  York  Central  Railway,  take  the 
boat  at  Lewiston  for  Niagara  or  Toronto,  those  via 
Canada  Southern  Railway,  take  the  cars  at  Buffalo  or 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        201 

Clifton  to  Niagara  direct.     Tourists  are  privileged  to 
stop  at  Niagara  or  Toronto.     Board  from  $12  to  $15 
per  week.     Both  these  hotels  are  under  the  management 
of  Messrs.  McGaw  &  Winnett 
i   Almost  immediately  after  leaving  Niagara  village,  we 


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pass  between  the  two  Forts,  Niagara  and  Massasauga  ; 
the  former  garrisoned  by  American  troops,  and  the  latter, 
in  by-gone  days,  by  the  soldiers  of  Her  Majesty  Queen 
Victoria.  These  two  forts  are  so  close  together,  that  it 
is  said,  on  a  calm  night,  the  watch-words,  as  given  by 


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202       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

the  troops  on  changing  guard,  could  be  heard  distinctly 
from  one  side  to  the  other,  across  the  water. 

FORT  NIAGARA. 

This  fort  stands  at  the  mouth  of  the  Niagara  River  on 
the  American  side.  There  are  many  interesting  associa- 
tions connected  with 
this  spot  During 
the  earlier  part  of 
the  past  century,  it 
was  the  scene  of 
many  severe  con- 
flicts between  the 
Whites  and  the 
Indians,  and  subse- 
quently between 
the  English  and  the  French,  The  names  of  the  heroic 
La  Salle,  the  courtly  De  Nouville,  and  the  gallant 
Prideaux,  will  long  retain  a  place  in  the  history  of  this 
country.  The  village  adjacent  to  the  Fort  is  called 
Youngstown,  in  honor  of  its  founder,  the  late  John 
Young,  Esq. 

Within  the  last  few  years  important  repairs  have  been 
made  around  the  Fort,  and  the  entire  wall  has  been 
constructed  anew.  Here  was  fought  the  battle  of  the 
24th  July,  1757,  in  which  Prideaux,  the  English  General 
fell,  and  after  which  the  French  garrison  surrendered  to 
Sir  William  Johnson,  who  succeeded  to  the  command  of 
the  English.  ,, , . ^ - ^, ,.  \-,tv! -.-;.:.     ■   x-  ^'.  \  •  -■-> ••  •./■-•,.-','.'■  *^.A' 

From  this  point  we  strike  out  into  the  lake,  and  in  the 
centre  almost  lose  sight  of  the  land  behind,  before  we 
discern  the  city  of  Toronto,  immediately  in  front  of  us. 


FORT   NIAGARA. 


Lnd  boats,  or  at 


UAoicg  and  wel 
rr,  which  are  i^ 


oramic  Guide,       203 

px  is  very  fine  indeed, 
ss  shew  it  to  be  a  cHy 


half  the  Amer 


Iiper  covers 


"airs  Experience  in  the  T( 


vince  of  Ontario  and 


al  lines  of  FINE  NEW  TEAS,  bough  Canada,  but  it  is  one 

TOET.  i    in    Her    Majesty's 

black  and  gol<jent  Grades,  Varieties  and  Mixtures  i^autiful   bav  separated 

)lack  and  irold=^-     ^^^^  P^'^^^  of  Tea  WARRANT^  ^.^     ,^       «   •   . 

)iack  and  gold.  ^^^  vn  as  Gibraltar  Point, 

,  black  and  goJ  ,,    t    t         1   ,      1 

I  J  J   I  well-sheltered  harbor. 

j^^-  olored  and  imput''^,''"'^'^^''!? -^ 

ar  covers.  p     ^qual  in  magnificence 

Ind  paper  cover*  of  pounds  «old  annually,  in  Canada,  ^he  tourist  will  doubt- 
Id  prper  covers,  dd  bo  confiscated,  and  the  owners  punitf 
'and  paper  cove  Pto  ^O**  at  least  a  day 

SP  CBOWN IBBAND  ENGLISH  Fls  of  interest,  we  will, 

VliJUAiS.      ,^jjg  g^feugth  of  ordinary  Teap— put  up}  will    be     assured     of 
P  XrTS  *-'  To«>«to.  !  QUEEN'S   HOTEL,  of 

ndgoW,.«dp.j,  ^g  jjjjPY  OOMPE'^"'^  "'"'^'^  first-class 


[d  gold,  and  papf 


le  r 


been  celebrated  for 


)lack  and  gold,  (are  unsurpassed.    We  select  only  the  .,,  attendance 

8m  on  our  own  premises  with  one  of  tl^xceiient  aitenudncc^ 

Tfs  of  the  kind  in  Ontario),  which  enables  scuisine,  and  has  been 

ss,  which  are  packed  in  0-2  and  5-Ib.  C«j   -      ...  ^    . 

and  gold,  and  1         '  l  families.      It  IS   most 

iH  d-aM  ^r^A  ««iD*J8  Tea  or  more,  sent  C.  0.  D.  to  any  l\     ^       ^  ^i.      i.        j  • 
Id  gold,  and  pa|j.ggg  '  '   |n  Front  Street,  and  is 

jfortable  hotels  in  the 


irges. 

nd  Price  List. 


and  paper  covP™  ***<*  ^^^  25  cents  by  buying  yoifned  a  wide  and  well- 

r?  ,  rement  of  its  present 
PRTON.  iress:  ^J.  --.....-  j  Winnett,  who  are 
["IVE.— Cloth  an  .  ,1  u 


DETECTIVES 

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202       All-Round  Route 

the  troops  on  changing  I 
from  one  side  to  the  oth« 

FORI 

This  fort  stands  at  thefiE  TradOi 
the  American  side.    The 
tions  connected  with 
this   spot.      During 
the  earlier   part  of 
the  past  century,  it 
was    the    scene    of 
many    severe    con- 
flicts   between    the 
Whites     and      the 
Indians,  and  subse- 
quently       between 
the  English  and  the  Fre 
La    Salle,   the    courtly 
Prideaux,  will  long  retai 
country.     The   village 
Youngstown,  in  honor 
Young,  Esq. 

Within  the  last  few  y€ 
made  around   the   Fort 
constructed   anew.     Heit 
24th  July,  1757,  in  whicir  Teas  and  Coflfees 
fell,  and  after  which  the 
Sir  William  Johnson,  wh 

the  English.  ^    iOIff 

From  this  point  we  sti  '' 

centre  almost  lose  sight 
discern  the  city  of  Toroi 


bESSED  TEA." 

in  \  lb.  packages. 

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J        All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,      203 

The  view  of  Toronto  from  the  water  is  very  fine  indeed, 
and  its  public  buildings  and  wharves  shew  it  to  be  a  city 
of  importance  and  prosperity.  >,  .  -     i 

TORONTO 

Is  not  only  the  Capital  of  the  Province  of  Ontario  and 
one  of  the  most  flourishing  cities  in  Canada,  but  it  is  one 
of  the  most  progressive  cities  in  Her  Majesty's 
Dominions.  It  is  situated  on  a  beautiful  bay  separated 
from  the  lake  by  a  peninsula  known  as  Gibraltar  Point, 
which  serves  to  form  a  safe  and  well-sheltered  harbor. 
Toronto  may  justly  feel  proud  of  its  hotels,  which  are 
scarcely  inferior  in  size,  and  quite  equal  in  magnificence 
to  any  in  American  cities,  and  as  the  tourist  will  doubt- 
less desire  to  remain  over  in  Toronto  for  at  least  a  day 
or  two,  and  visi^  its  many  points  of  interest,  we  will, 
therefore,  direct  him  where  he  will  be  assured  of 
every  comfort  and  attention.  The  Queen's  Hotel,  of 
which  we  present  a  cut,  will  be  found  strictly  first-class 
in  all  its  appointments.  It  has  long  been  celebrated  for 
its  home  comforts,  perfect  quiet,  excellent  attendance, 
and  the  peculiar  excellence  of  its  cuisine,  and  has  been 
patronized  by  Royalty  and  the  best  families.  It  is  most 
delightfully  situated  near  the  Bay  on  Front  Street,  and  is 
one  of  the  largest  and  most  comfortable  hotels  in  the 
Dominion  of  Canada,  and  has  earned  a  wide  and  well- 
merited  celebrity,  under  the  management  of  its  present 
proprietors,  Messrs.  McGaw  &  Winnett,  who  are 
experienced  hotel-men,  and  gentlemen  who  know  how 
to  cater  for  the  wants  of  guests.  Thci  beautiful  and 
spacious  grounds,  with  lawn  -  tennis,  chivalerie,  and 
croquet  lawns,  render  it  very  desirable  for  those  who  may 


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jVlAI^K  JWAIN'S   ]N[EW  pOOK  I 

THE  PRINCE  AND  THE  PAUPER. 

FOB  SALE  BT  THE  NEWS  AGENT. 


HUNTER,  ROSE  &  CO. 


PRINTERS 


■  ANf)- 


1    BOOKBINDERS,! 

'"  *. 

-    ♦^^ 

TORONTO. 

-^ 

j^A^K    JWAIN'S  JMeW  pOOK  I 

THE  PRINCE  AND  THE  PAUPER. 

FOB  SALE  BT  THE  NEWS  AOENT. 


TO  THE  AMERICAN  TRAV 

The  Rose-BeJforTPubli 

OF  25  WELLINGTON  STREET.  TO 

Would  respectfully  call  your  attention  to  ilwir  choice  ana 

BOOKS,  by  the  most  Celebrated  Authors,  which  , 

Agent  on  this  Train  at  less  than  one-half  the  A 


REV.  E.  1*.  HOWE. 

A  DAY  OF  FATE.— Cloth,  cxtin,  ami  paper  covers. 

IVIIil.  CAltliGTON. 

FAUM  BAIJiADS.—8vo.,  cloth,  black  and 
FARM  LLUKNDS.— 8vo.,  doth,  black  and  f 
FARM  FjiSTIVA  r,S.— 8vo.  cloth,  black  am 

MAY  ACilIVEf^  FLEMINO. 

KATE  DANTON.— Cloth  extin,  and  paper  coverg. 
LOST  FOR  A  WOMAN.— Cloth  extra,  and  paper  co 
A  WIFE'S  TRAGEDY.— Cloth  extra,  and  prper  cove 
POLICY  AND  PASSION.— Cloth  extra,  and  paper  t 


MRN.  MARY  J.  HOLMES. 

EDITH  I YLE.— 8vo.,  cloth,  black  and  gold,  and  paj 
MILDRED. — Svo.,  cloth,  black  and  gold,  and  paper  c( 
FORREST  HOUSE.— 8  vo.,  cloth,  black  and  gold,  and 

CHATEAU  D'OR 8vo.,  cloth,  black  and  gold,  and  ] 

QUEENIE  HGTHERTUN.-8V0.,  iluth,  black  and  go 


JAMES  PAYN. 

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WALTER'S  WORD.— 8vo.,  cloth,  blrck  and  gold,  and 


BERTHA  M.  OliAY. 

BETWEEN  TWO  LOVES.— Cloth  extra,  and  paper 


AliliAN  PIIVKERTON. 

CLAUDE  MELNOTTE  AS  A  DETECTIVE.- Clotl 
THE  DETECTIVE  AND  THE  SOMNAMBULIST.- 
PROFESSIONAL  THIEVES  AND  THE  DETECTI 
THE  RAILROAD  FORGER  AND  THE  DETECTI 
And  Books  by  all  otber  Leading  Antli 


For  Bale  by  all  booksellers,  and  on  all  trains  and  boats,  or  i 
of  price,  by  the  publishers, 

CS.K  oxH.. .»..]      ROSE-BELFORD  PUBLISHIN 


lERICAN  TRAVELLER 

Biford  Publishing  Go. 

.INGTON  STREET,  TORONTO, 

attention  to  their  choice  and  well-selected  LIST  of 
Celebrated  Authors,  which  are  sold  by  the  News 
■it  less  than  one-half  the  American  Prices. 


EV.  E.  P.  IIOWE. 

Clutli.  cxtrn,  ami  {laper  covers. 

l^IIili  CARIiETON. 

iADb.— Rvo.,  clotl).  black  and  gold. 
CNDS.— 8vo.,  cloth,  black  and  gold. 
'I VA  liS.— 8vo.  cloth,  black  and  gold. 

V  ACtlVES  FliEMINO. 

loth  extra,  and  paper  covers. 
iX. — Cloth  cxtrn,  and  paper  covers. 
Y. — Cloth  extra,  and  prper  covers. 
ION.— Cloth  cxtrn,  and  paper  covers. 


MARY  J.  IIOIiMES.  '    ' 

cloth,  black  and  gold,  and  paper'covors. 
th,  black  and  gold,  and  paper  covers. 
8vo.,  cloth,  black  and  gold,  and  paper  covers.   '      ' 
ro.,  cloth,  black  and  gold,  and  T^ap&t  covers. 
["ON.— 8vo.,  cloth,  black  and  gold,  and  paper  covers. 


JA9IES  PAYHr. 

— 8vo.,  cloth,  black  and  gold,  and  paper  covers. 
8vo.,  cloth,  blrck  and  gold,  and  paper  covers. 


RTHA  M.  CliAT. 

VEIS. — Cloth  extra,  and  paper  covers. 


AN  FIS^KERTON. 

AS  A  DETECTIVE.— Cloth  and  paper. 
«D  THE  SOMNAMBULIST.— Cloth  and  paper. 
EVES  AND  THE  DETECTIVES.— Cloth  and  paper. 
IGER  AND  THE  DETECTIVES.— Cloth  and  paper. 

by  all  other  L«adlnB  Aathora. 


ind  on  all  trains  and  boats,  or  sent,  postpaid  on  receipt 

:-BElFOR0  PUBLISHING  CO..  Toronto. 


TEA 


TH  OLS  BILXABLI 


TEA  &  COFFEE 


WAREHOUSE. 


Thirty-Five  Tears  Experience  in  the  Tea  Trade. 

KJust  receiving  several  lines  of  FINE  NEW  TEAS,  bought  remarkably  low 
IngliHh  Markets. 

tflTOver  FIFTT  different  Grades,  Varieties  and  Mixtures  in  stock,  put  up  in 
quantities  to  suit  purchaser^.  Every  pound  of  Tea  WARRANTED  TO  BE  PURE 
and  to  please,  or  money  refunded. 

Beware  of  Colored  and  Impure  Teas. 

fi^There  are  thousands  of  pounds  sold  annually,  in  Canada,  which  if  offered  fur 
sale  in  the  old  country,  would  bo  confiscated,  and  the  owners  punished. 

Trjr  the  "  CSLSBBATIS  CBOWN  BBANS  ENaLXSH  FBESSEL  TEA." 

Which  is  alctually  double  the  strength  of  ordinary  Tea— put  up  in  \  lb.  packages. 
Itf'We  are  sole  Agentf  for  Toronto.  •-  ''   - 

IN  COFFEE  WE  DEFY  COMPETITION, 

As  our  facilities  for  buying  are  unsurpassed.  We  nelect  only  the  purest  varieties  of 
Qreen  Coffees,  and  roast  them  on  our  own  premises  with  one  uf  the  bext  Patent  Hot 
Air  Roasters  (the  only  one  of  the  kind  in  Ontario),  which  enableK  uh  to  produce  the 
perfection  of  Roasted  Coffe<!S,  which  are  packed  in  0-2  and  5-lb.  Cannisters. 


'Packages  of  20  pounds  Tea  or  more,  sent  C.  0.  D.  to  any  Kiiilway  Station  in 
Ontario,  free  of  express  charges. 

fifOet  New  Circular  and  Price  List. 

)|9*Send  us  yonr  orders  and  save  25  cents  by  buying  yotu-  Teas  and  Coffees 
from  us. 


Renoiember  the  Address : 

XSDHirARD  XaAinrSON, 

(SIGN  OF  THE  QUEEN) 

93  King  Street  East,  TORONTO. 

a^-NOTED  FOR  PURE  TEAS  AND  COFFEE. 


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204       AU'Raiind  Routt  and  Panoramic  Guide. 

require  recreation.  It  is  open  all  the  year,  and  has 
ample  accommodation  for  350  guests.  A  passenger 
elevator,  with  all  modern  improvements  and  appliances, 
will  be  found  in  it. 


in'- '. 


The  queen  city,  Toronto,  formerly  Little  York,  was 
founded  in  1794, — in  1832  it  had  2,800  inhabitants;  in 
1841,  15,300;  in  185 1,  40,000;  in  1861,44,800;  in  1871 
50,600;  and  the  census  of  1881  brings  it  to  86,445. 
This  beautiful  city,  which  is  in  the  form  of  a  parallelo- 


.:■•  t 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


205 


f^ram,  is  built  with  great  regularity,  and  its  streets  are 
always  clean  and  well  paved,  spacious  and  well  lighted 
with  gas.  The  houses  and  private  residences  are 
generally  well  built  and  substantial,  and  in  the  principal 
thoroughfaies  have  often  an  elegant  appearance.  Its 
public  buildings  are  numerous,  very  substantial,  and 
many  of  them  beautiful  and  well  worthy  of  inspection 
by  all  tourists  and  visitors.  It  is  the  seat  of  Law  and 
Provincial  Government,  and  the  headquarters  of  the 
Educational  Department  of  the  Province,  Many  of  the 
dwellings  and  business  structures  are  built  of  brick,  which 
has  a  light,  soft  and  pleasing  tint  Toronto  has 
increased  in  wealth  2J>A  population  of  late  years  more 
rapidly  than  any  other  city  in  the  Dominion.  Toronto 
was  founded  in  1 794  by  Governor  Simcoe,  who  gave  it 
the  name  of  York,  which  was  changed  after  it  was 
incorporated  as  a  city  in  1834  to  Toronto — meaning  in 
the  Indian  language,  "  The  place  of  Meeting."  It  was 
twice  captured  b>  the  Americans  in  18 13,  who  destroyed 
all  the  fortifications  and  burned  the  public  buildings  ; 
since  then,  enterprise  and  capital  have  taken  the  place 
of  shot  and  shell,  and  at  the  time  of  writing  Toronto  can 
with  pride  boast  of  some  of  the  finest  buildings  of  their 
kind  in  America,  among  which  may  be  mentioned  the 
Lieut  Governor's  mansion,  a  princely  residence;  the 
Normal  School  and  Trinity  College,  both  fine  edifices ; 
the  University  of  Toronto,  one  of  the  finest  buildings  in 
America,  and  estimated  second  to  none  on  this  side  o^ 
the  Atlantic  as  a  seat  of  learning.  The  style  of 
architecture  is  Norman  with  such  slight  deviations  as  the 
climate  demands,  and  is  a  building  of  which  any  city 
may  justly  feel  proud  of  possessing.     It  is  situated  in  a 


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206        Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


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Ail-Round  Route  andPanoramic  Guide.       207 

large  beautiful  park  whose  avenues  are  ornamented  with 
stately  trees,  etc.,  and  approached  by  College  Avenue, 
which  is  one  half  mile  long,  and  lined  with  double  rows 
of  beautiful  shade  trees.  Adjoining  these  beautiful 
grounds  on  the  east  is  the  Queen's  Park,  which  comprises 
about  50  acres,  skilfully  laid  out ;  here  may  be  seen  a 
monument  (consisting  of  a  brown-stone  shaft  surmounted 
by  a  magnificent  marble  statue  of  Britannia).  This 
monument  was  erected  to  the  memory  of  the  Canadians 
who  fell  in  repelling  the  Fenian  invasion  of  1866. 
Osgoode  Hall,  in  Queen  street  (named  after  the  first 
Chief-Justice  of  the  Province),  is  another  imposing 
building  of  the  Grecian-Ionic  style  and  surmounted  by  a 
beautiful  dome,  and  contains  a  library  and  rotunda 
unequalled  in  America.  Among  the  other  public 
buildings  may  be  mentioned  the  Masonic  Hall,  the 
Young  Men's  Christian  Association,  a  beautiful  building 
at  the  corner  of  Queen  and  James  streets,  which  has  the 
largest  hall  in  the  city.  The  Lunatic  Asylum,  Custom 
House,  Merchants  Exchange,  Government  School  of 
Technology,  and  new  Post  Office,  are  all  worthy  the 
notice  of  the  tourist.  There  are  over  50  churches,  and 
about  1 5  banks,  and  many  of  these  edifices  are  strikingly 
beautiful. 

Among  the  most  striking  buildings  of  recent  construc- 
tion is  that  erected  by  the  Mail  Printing  Co'y.  in  1880, 
on  the  corner  of  Bay  and  King  streets.  The  structure  is 
in  the  modern  French  style  of  architecture,  and  consists 
of  four  stories  and  a  mansard  with  a  handsome  tower, 
built  of  white  brick,  with  red  brick  facings.  The  upper 
part  is  laid  out  in  airy  and  commodious  offices,  and  the 
whole  building  is  a  standing  evidence  of  the  prosperity 
of  the  Company  under  its  present  management 


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208       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

Of  all  the  cities  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada  which 
aspire  to  the  distinction  of  being  recognized  as  great 
jobbing  markets,  Toronto  is  eclipsed  but  by  one — 
Montreal,  and  all  other  cities  of  the  Dominion  fall  far 
below  it  in  the  aggregate  of  wholesale  transactions  per 
annum,  and  the  immense  trade  that  centres  in  it  from 
all  parts  of  the  country. 

Toronto  has  numerous  manufactures,  among  which  are 
extensive  foundries,  tanneries,  breweries,  distilleries, 
furniture,  carriage,  reaping  and  mowing  machine  manu- 
factories, starch,  glue,  soap  and  candle  factories  ;  exten- 
sive rope- walks,  flour-mills  are  also  to  be  found,  in  fact 
every  line  of  trfide  is  represented  there  by  business  firms 
whose  characteristics  are  such  as  to  warrant  us  in  speak- 
ing of  them  in  eulogistic  terms.  As  a  rule,  Toronto 
jobbers  are  men  who  exercise  a  high  degree  of  enter- 
prise in  the  prosecution  of  their  various  ventures; 
they  are  men  who  believe  that  whatever  is  worth  doing 
at  all  is  worth  doing  well,  and  so  they  cultivate  their 
trade,  aim  to  develop  friendly  feeling,  and  to  secure 
business  to  themselves  and  to  the  city,  by  bands  which 
shall  be  as  soft  as  silk,  yet  as  powerful  as  steel.  This 
policy  has  been  fruitful  of  results,  tco,  which  are  easily 
appreciable. 

Toronto  has  a  splendid  harbor,  which  admits  of  vessels 
of  the  largest  size  navigating  the  lakes ;  it  is  remarkably 
well  sheltered,  and  afifords  great  facilities  for  its  exten- 
sive and  constantly  increasing  trade.  Upwards  of  half  a 
dozen  Railways  centre  in  Toronto— among  which  are 
The  Grand  Trunk,  Great  Western,  Northern,  Hamilton 
and  North  Western,  Toronto,  Grey  and  Bruce,  Toronto 
and  Nipissing,  and  Credit  Valley  Railways.    Telegraph 


X 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       209 


lines  radiate  from  the  city  in  all  directions,  magnificent 
steamers  during  the  season  of  navigation  ply  to  all  the 
lake  and  river  ports,  and  it  is  well  worth  one's  while  to 
take  up  a  position  on  the  wharfs,  or  at  any  of  the  depots 
where  a  commanding  view  is  to  be  had  of  incoming  and 
outgoing  trains  and  steamers  during  the  season. 

Among  the  other  hotels  to  be  found, in  Toronto,  not 
previously  mentioned,  are  the  Rossin,  Walker  and 
Simcoe,  any  of  which  will  afford  visitors  first-class 
accommodation. 

Having  viewed  Toronto,  we  arrange  for  the  continua- 
tion of  our  tour  eastward,  which  may  be  done  either  by 
boat  or  rail.  If  we  choose  the  former,  we  avail  ourselves 
of  the  superior  accommodation  afforded  by  the  boats  of 
the  Richelieu  &  Ontario  Navigation  Co.  (Royal  Mail), 
which  leave  their  wharf  daily  for  Montreal.  Travelers 
can  go  on  board,  obtain  their  state-rooms,  and  make  the 
passage  of  the  Lake ;  but  "  as  variety  is  charming,"  our 
tourists  can,  if  they  prefer  it,  go  as  far  as  Kingston  by 
the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  on  one  of  the  Pullman  Palace 
Cars,  which  are  now  attached  to  both  day  and  night 
trains  upon  this  railway,  and  there  take  the  steamer. 
This  is  one  of  the  advantages  of  taking  a  joint  ticket  at 
Niagara  Falls,  which  enables  the  holder  to  travel  by 
either  rail  or  boat,  and  in  this  way  the  option  of 
conveyance  is  with  the  passenger,  giving  him  the 
opportunity  of  consulting  his  own  convenience  or 
inclination,  afler  arrival  at  Toronto.  Tourists  arriving 
from  Niagara  Falls  can  have  a  few  hours  in  Toronto, 
take  the  evening  train,  and  reach  Kingston  in  time  to 
connect  with  the  steamer  which  left  Toronto  the  same 
day.    For  a  short  distance  the  train   runs  along  the 

14 


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2IO       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

banks  of  the  Lake,  which  is  then  lost  sight  of  altogether. 

After  leaving  Toronto,  the  first  place  of  any  importance 

we  come  to  is 

PORT  HOPE, 

Which  is  situated  sixty-three  miles  from  Toronto.  A 
small  stream,  that  here  falls  into  the  Lake,  has  formed  a 
valley,  in  which,  and  on  the  rising  hills  beyond,  the  town 
is  situated.  The  harbor  formed  at  the  mouth  of  this 
stream  is  one  of  the  best  on  the  Lake.  Port  Hope  is  a 
very  pretty  town.  On  the  western  side,  the  hills  rise 
gradually  one  above  another,  the  highest  summit,  called 
"  Fort  Orton,"  affording  a  fine  prospect,  and  overlooking 
the  country  for  a  great  distance  around.  The  town  is 
incorporated,  and  contains  over  5,000  inhabitants. 

COBOURG 

lies  6  miles  below  Port  Hope.  It  is  a  town  of  6,000 
inhabitants,  and  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  an  exceed- 
ingly fertile  section  of  the  country.  Its  Harbor  is  safe 
and  commodious,  and  a  large  quantity  of  grain,  iron  ore, 
etc.,  is  annually  exported.  It  is  very  prettily  laid  out, 
and  its  streets  are  adorned  with  numerous  elegant 
residences  and  public  buildings,  including  the  Town  Hall 
and  Victoria  College  (Wesleyan).  The  train  stops  about 
a  quarter  of  an  hour,  to  give  travellers  the  opportunity 
of  partaking  of  a  very  acceptable  meal,  that  is  ready  for 
them  in  the  Refreshment  Room  at  the  station. 

The  tourist  or  business  man  will  receive  at  the 
Arlington  House  every  comfort  and  attention.  From 
Cobourg  a  branch  line  runs  up  into  the  back-country 
to  Peterborough.  Having  satisfied  the  wants  of  the 
"  inner  man,"  we  resume  our  seats  and  pass  onward  to 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        2U 


'M 


BELLEVILLE, 

a  town  of  considerable  importance  situated  on  the  Bay 
of  Quinte,  44  miles  from  Cobourg.  This  town  has 
rapidly  grown  during  the  past  few  years,  and  has  now  a 
population  of  over  7,000.  It  is  well  built,  lit  with  gas, 
aud  possesses  a  fine  harbor  /ith  an  almost  unlimited 
water  power.  It  is  the  county  town  of  the  County  of 
Hastings,  and  contains,  besides  the  county  buildings, 
many  very  handsome  stores  and  churches,  with  a  college, 
a  convent,  and  very  extensive  factories  and  saw  mills. 

KINGSTON, 

which  after  Quebec  and  Halifax  has  the  strongest  fort  in 
the  Dominion.  A  settlement  was  begun  here  by  the  French 
under  Governor  De  Courcelles  in  1672,  and  was  known 
as  Fort  Cataraqui,  Subsequently  a  massive  stone  fort 
was  erected  by  Count  de  Frontenac,  and  received  his 
name. 

This  Fort  was  alternately  in  the  possession  of  the 
French  and  the  Indians,  until  it  was  destroyed  by  the 
expedition  under  Col.  Bradstreet,  in  1758.  In  1762,  the 
place  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  English,  from  whom  it 
received  its  present  name^ 

Kingston  is  172  miles  from  Montreal,  and  at  this 
point  we  purpose  leaving  the  train,  and  continue  our 
journey  by  water.  In  order  to  reach  the  boat,  the 
omnibuses  in  waiting  at  the  station  will  convey  us  to 
the  city,  which  is  distant  about  one  mile.  The  best 
hotel  in  the  city  is  the  British  American ;  W.  Davis, 
proprietor. 

The  steamer  which  leaves  Toronto  in  the  afternoon  is 


■  '  ■  iff' . 


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212       All-Round  Route  and  Panoraviic   Guide, 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       213 

due  early  next  morning,  thereby  enabling  the  tourist  to 
view  all  the  scenery  down  to  Montreal,  by  daylight. 
Leaving  Kingston  by  one  of  the  magnificent  steamers 
of  the  Richelieu  and  Ontario  Navigation  Company,  we 
find  ourselves  entering  amidst  that  wonderful  and  beau- 
tiful collection  of  isles  known  as 

THE  THOUSAND  ISLANDS. 

These  islands  commence  near  Kingston,  and  extend 
downward  to  Brockville,  a  distance  of  over  50  miles. 
They  form  the  most  numerous  collection  of  river  islands 
in  the  world,  and  consist  of  about  1,800  wooded  and 
rocky  islets  of  every  imaginable  shape,  size  and  appear- 


FORT  UKNRY— MABTKLLO  TOW£R. 
CBDAB  ISLAND. 


LIOHTHOUSB  ON  ONE  OF  THB 
THOUSAND  ISLANDS. 


ance,  some  being  mere  dots  of  rock  a  few  yards  in  extent, 
others  covering  acres,  thickly  wooded,  and  presenting 
the  most  charming  appearance  with  rich  foliage, 
conceivable.  At  times  our  vessel  passes  so  close  to  these 
islands,  that  a  pebble  might  be  cast  on  their  shores  ; 
while  looking  ahead,  it  appears  as  though  further 
progress  was  effectually  barred,  when  rounding  the  points 
amid  winding  passages  and  bays,  the  way  is  gradually 
opened  before  us.  Again  the  river  seems  to  come  to  an 
abrupt  termination.  Approaching  the  threatening  shores, 
a  channel  suddenly  appears,  and  you  are  whirled  into  a 


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214      All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

magnificent  amphitheatre  of  lake,  that  is,  to  all  appear- 
ance, bounded  by  an  immense  green  bank.  At  your 
approach  the  mass  is  moved  as  if  in  a  kaleidoscope,  and 
a  hundred  little  isles  appear  in  its  place.  Such  is  the 
charming  scenery  presented  on  this  beautiful  route.  It 
is  a  famous  spot  for  sporting ;  myriads  of  wild  fowl  of 
all  descriptions  may  here  be  found  ;  and  angling  is 
rather  fatiguing  than  otherwise,  from  the  great  quantity 
and  size  of  the  fish.  On  many  of  these  islands  summer 
villas  have  been  built  by  wealthy  and  prominent  people 
from  the  United  States,  and  every  year  adds  to  the 
number  of  recruits  whose  vacation  is  spent  amongst  these 


views  AMONO  THE  THOUSAND  ISLANDS. 

modern    Hesperides,  which    bid   fair    to    become    the 
camping-out  ground  of  this  continent 

These  islands,  too,  have  been  the  scene  of  the  most 
exciting  romance.  From  their  great  number,  and  the 
labyrinth-like  channels  among  them,  they  afforded  an 
admirable  retreat  for  the  insurgents  in  the  Canadian 
insurrection  of  1837,  and  for  the  American  sympathizers 
with  them,  who,  under  the  questionable  name  of 
"  Patriots,"  sought  to  overthrow  the  British  government 
in  Canada.  Among  these  was  one  man,  who,  from  his 
daring  and  ability,  became  an  object  of  anxious  pursuit 
bfr   the  Canadian  authorities.     Here  he  found   a  safe 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       215 


asylum,  and  through  tNe  devoted ness  and  courage  of  his 
daughter,  whose  skilful  management  of  her  canoe  was 
such,  that  with  hosts  of  pursuers  she  still  baffled  their 
efforts  at  capture,  while  she  supplied  him  with  provisions 
in  these  solitary  retreats,  rowing  him  from  one  place  of 
concealment  to  another,  under  the  shadow  of  night. 
But,  in  truth,  all  the  islands  which  are  so  numerously 
studded  through  the  whole  chain  of  the  magnificent 
Lakes,  abound  with  materials  for  romance  and  poetry, 
and  many  are  the  traditions  of  the  Indians.  For 
instance,  on  the  Manitoulin  Islands  the  Indians  believe 
that  the  "  Manitou,"  that  is  the  Great  Spirit^  (and  hence 
the  name  of  the  islands),  has  forbidden  his  children  to 
seek  for  gold  ;  and  they  tell  you  that  a  certain  point 
where  it  is  reported  to  exist  in  large  quantities  has  never 
been  visited  by  the  disobedient  Indian  without  his  canoe 
being  overwhelmed  in  a  tempest 


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^■: 


THE  THOUSAND  ISLES. 

BT  HON.  CALEB  LYON. 

The  Thousand  Isles,  the  Thousand  Isles, 
Dimpled  the  wave  around  them  smiles, 
Kissed  by  a  thousand  red  lipped  flowers, 
Gemmed  by  a  thous&hd  emerald  bowers. 
A  thousand  birds  their  praises  wake, 
By  reeky  glade  and  plumey  brake, 
A  thousand  cedars'  fragrant  shade 
Falls  where  the  Indian's  children  played ; 
And  fancy's  dream  my  heart  beguiles 
While  singing  thee,  the  Thousand  Isles ; 
No  Vestal  Virgin  guards  their  groves, 
No  Cupid  breathes  of  Cyprian  loves. 
No  satyr's  form  at  eve  is  seen. 
No  dryad  peeps  the  trees  between. 
No  Venus  rises  from  their  shore* 
No  loved  Adonis,  red  with  gore, 
No  pale  Endymion,  wooed  to  sleep. 
No  brave  Leander  breasts  their  deep. 
No  Ganymede,  no  Pleiades— 


;;  ,.-■' 


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2i6        Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

TherCi  aro  a  New  World's  memorifls. 

The  flac  of  France  firat  o'er  them  hunc, 

The  man  wai  said,  the  respen  ■unc, 

The  frerei  of  Jesui  hailed  the  strands, 

Ai  blessed  Virgin  Mary's  lands ; 

And  red  men  mutely  heard,  surprised. 

Their  heathen  names  all  ohriitianiied. 

Next  floats  a  banner  with  oross  and  orown ; 

'Twai  Freedom's  eagle  pluoked  it  down, 

Retaining  its  pure  and  orimson  dyes 

With  the  stars  of  their  own,  their  native  skies. 

There  St.  Lawrence  gentlest  flows, 

There  the  south  wind  softest  blows, 

There  the  lilies  whitest  bloom. 

There  the  birch  hath  leafiest  gloom, 

There  the  red  deer  feed  in  spring. 

There  doth  glitter  wood-duck's  wing. 

There  leaps  the  maskinonge  at  morn, 

There  the  loon's  night  song  is  borne. 

There  is  the  fisherman's  paradise, 

W'ith  trolling  skiff  at  red  sunrise. 

The  Thousand  Isles,  the  Thousand  Isles, 

Their  oharm  from  every  care  beguiles, 

Titian  alone  hath  grace  to  paint 

The  triumph  of  their  patron  taint, 

Whose  waves  return  on  memory's  tide ; 

La  Salle  and  Piquet  side  by  side. 

Proud  Frontenao  and  bold  Champlain 

There  act  their  wanderings  o'er  again ; 

And  while  their  golden  sunlight  smiles. 

Pilgrims  shall  greet  thee.  Thousand  Islei . 


Additional  means  of  travel  for  the  tourist  down  the  St, 
Lawrence,  have  of  late  been  supplied  by  the  formation 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  Steamboat  Co'y,  which  despatch  a 
steamer  eveiy  day  from  Clayton,  on  the  arrival  of  the 
Steamboat  Express  of  the  Utica  and  Black  River  R.  R., 
stopping  at  Alexandria  Bay,  Thousand  Islands  Landings, 
Ogdensburg,  and  Messina  Springs,  and  running  the 
rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 

Opposite  the  Thousand  Islands,  and  on  the  American 
shore,  stands  the  village  of 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide*        217 

CLAYTON, 

A  delightful  place  of  resort,  being  situated  directly  in 
front  of  the  upper  group  of  the  Thousand  Islands.  It 
contains  four  churches,  a  bank  and  three  telegraph  offices. 
There  are  two  celebrated  hotels  there,  the  Hubbard  House 
and  Walton  House.  The  finest  fishing  on  the  River  St, 
Lawrence  is  found  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Clayton  ; 
pike,  black  bass,  pickerel  and  maskinonge  of  extra- 
ordinary size  are  easily  caught  there.  Experienced 
and  attentive  oarsmen,  the  best  of  boats,  and  splendid 
hotel  accommodations  render  this  the  favorite  resort  far 
fishing  parties.  All  lines  of  Steamers  stop  at  Clayton, 
Wag-  er's  Palace  Sleeping  Cars  run  through  without 
change  from  New  York  in  13  hours,  and  through  cars 
from  Utica  in  4  hours.  Steamers  for  Montreal  stop  at 
Clayton. 

ALEXANDRIA  BAY 

Is  the  next  port  after  leaving  Clayton.  It  is  built  upon 
a  massive  pile  of  rocks,  and  its  situation  is  romantic  and 
highly  picturesque.  It  is  a  place  of  resort  for  sportsmen. 
Some  two  or  three  miles  below  the  village  is  a  position 
from  whence  one  hundred  islands  can  be  seen  at  one 
view.  Undoubtedly  the  pleasantest  part  of  the  Lake  of 
a  Thousand  Islands  lies  adjacent  to  Alexandria  Bay,  at 
which  are  erected  the  finest  hotels  in  the  Islands.  Mine 
Host,  Staples,  has  here  the  largest  hotel  on  the  St.  Law- 
rence, admirably  situated  on  one  of  the  pleasantest 
islands,  and  the  extensive  patronage  he  receives  every 
recurring  season,  testifies  to  the  popularity  which  his 
management  has  obtained  for  it.     Everything  is  first- 


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1882.  Centennial  Hall.  1882. 

A  C.  MCINTYRE  &  CO., 

ALEXANDRIA  BAT,  -  RIVER  ST.  LAWRENCE. 

NEW   AND  ATTRACTIVE   VIEWS   OF   THE    ICXX)  ISLANDS, 

WHOLESALE    AND    RETAIL. 

Stereoscopic  Views;    Large  Views — size  varying  from 

4x7  to  16x20  in.,  mounted  and  unmounted. 

Photographic  Views  taken  to  order. 


Fruits  and   Confectionery   of  the   Choicest  Kinds, 

And  leadipg  Fancy  Articles  of  the  day,  including 
Bird  Fans  and  Coon  Chatalaines. 

Stereoscopic  Views  of  all  t/ie  points  of  interest  in  Thousafui 
Islands  and  St,  Lawrence  River, 

THOUSAND  ISLANDS,  RIVER  ST.  LAWRENCE. 


410  mm 


JJ 


Clayton,  IST- Y. 

Lovers  of  Delightful  Scenery,  Pure  Air  and  Excellent  Fishing 

Will  find  every  facility  afforded  them  at  this  House— good 

Boats,  Fishing  Tackle  and  experienced  Oarsme  n 

will  always  be  in  attendance,  and  Fish 

packed  and  shipped  for  parties 

when  desired. 

Steamers  from  Niagara  Falls,  Toronto,  Rochester,  Oswego,  Cape 
Vincent  and  Ogdensb^rg,  Daily. 

'The  table   is  supplied  with   fresh  Milk,  Vegetables,  &c., 
from  Hubbard  House  farm,  Daily. 

«r.  T.  HUBBARB,  Proprietor. 


^m 


V 


219 


THOUSAND  ISLAND   BOVSK. 


4i®iii MM  Mm,  IX 

In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  far-famed 
Thousand  Islands, 

LARGEST  HOTEL  ON  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 

Accommof^ales  700  Guests, 

THIS  FIRST-GLASS  HOTEL,  being  regarded  by  the  travellincr  Publio  m  the 
most  popular  resort  on  the  River,  is  situated  at  Alexandria  Bay  on  the  St. 
Lawrence  River,  90  miles  from  Cape  Vincent,  and  36  from  Ogdensbarg. 

The  proprietor  takes  this  opportunity  of  thanking  his  numerous  friends  for 
past  favora,  and  to  inform  them  that  he  has  made  a  First-olass  House,  with  all 
the  modern  improvements,  Gas,  Bath-Rooms,  etc.,  and  hopes  in  future  to  be 
able  to  aooommodate  all  who  favor  him  with  a  visit.  It  is  easy  of  acceRs ;  the 
Canadian  Navigation  Company  run  two  daily  lines  of  steamers  from  Niagara 
Falls  to  Montreal,  making  allof  the  landings,  stopping  at  Alexandria  Bay  both 
ways. 

As  a  quiet,  romantic  and  healthy  resort,  this  place  has  no  superior,  abounding 
as  it  does  in  oool,  shady  walks  and  rambles  among  the  Islands,  fine  boating,  and, 
lastly,  the  finest  fishing  to  be  found  in  America.  Personb  who,  daring  the 
hot  months  of  summer,  seek  a  place  of  resort  for  relaxation  from  cares  of 
business,  and  also  to  benefit  their  health,  will  find  no  pleasanter  spot  than 
Alexandria  Bay,  environed  as  it  is  by  the  Thousand  Islands,  and  the  beaatiful 
scenery  ot  the  St-  Lawrence  River. 

THE  builoingTs  ughted~b7  electricity. 

GOWAN'S  BHAS»  BAND. 

0.  tt.  STAPLES,  Proprietor. 

Send  two  8  cent  stampfii   for  Oalde  Book  and 

Yiiitors' liUt,  to  O.  G.  STAPI.I», 

Alexandria  Basy. 


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2 20      All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 

class  about  it,  and  nothing  is  left  undone  to  contribute  to 
the  comfort  and  enjoyment  of  guests.  The  Grossman 
House  is  also  a  palatial  establishment,  and  takes 
front  rank  as  a  fashionable  resort.  All  its  appointments 
are  in  first-class  style,  and  the  management  of  Mr.  Cross- 
man  and  his  son  leaves  nothing  to  be  desired,  and  has 
gained  a  wide  celebrity.  Within  sight  of  these  hotels 
are  the  beautiful  lawns  of  Westminster  Park,  the  hand- 
some villas  of  Hayden  Island,  the  commanding  situation 
of  Mr.  Hart's  "  Eyrie,"  the  breezy  site  so  dear  to  the 
lamented  Dr.  J.  G.  Holland,  where  the  anxieties  of 
"  Scribner  "  were  exchanged,  for  the  nonce,  for  the  lotos 
existence  of  "(Bonnie  Castle  "  ;  the  rugged  promontories 
of  Carleton  Island,  associated  with  scenes  of  the  early 
French  history  of  the  continent,  and  many  others, 
named  and  unnamed,  upon  which  Nature  has  left  her 
sweetest  impress, 

REDWOOD. 

This  village  contains  about  800  inhabitants,  and  is  six 
miles  from  Alexandria  Bay,  to  which  stages  run  on 
arrival  of  the  trains.  The  scenery  around  Redwood  is 
picturesque  and  abounds  in  numerous  lakes  which  afford 
excellent  fishing  for  pike,  pickerel,  lake  trout  and 
various  kinds  of  bass.  The  American,  kept  by  Mr.  M. 
Holkins,  is  an  excellent  hotel. 

We  have  now  passed  through  the  "  Lake  of  a 
Thousand  Islands,"  and  leaving  behind  us  the  last  of  the 
great  chain  of  lakes,  we  enter  the  River  St.  Lawrence, 
and  speedily  find  ourselves  at  the  thriving  town  of 


M'-'i 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.        221 

BROCKVILLE, 

125  miles  from  Montreal.  It  is  on  the  Canadian  side  of 
the  river,  and  is  built  on  an  elevation  which  rises  from 
the  shore  in  a  succession  of  graceful  ridges,  being  one  of 
the  prettiest  towns  in  Canada.  It  received  its  name  in 
honor  of  the  hero,  General  Brock,  who  fell  at  Queenston 
in  18 1 2.  It  was  laid  out  about  1802,  and  has  grown 
rapidly  since  that  date.  It  contains  a  number  of  public 
buildings,  and  is  largely  interested  in  manufactures. 
The  population  is  about  7900. 

OGDENSBURG 

Is  situated  on  the  American  side  of  the  river.  In  the 
year  1748,  the  Abb^  Francois  Piquet,  who  was  after- 
wards styled  the  "  Apostle  of  the  Iroquois,"  was  sent  to 
establish  a  mission  at  this  place,  as  many  of  the  Indians 
of  that  tribe  had  manifested  a  desire  of  embracing 
Christianity.  A  settlement  was  begun  in  connection 
with  this  mission,  and  a  fort  called  "  La  Presentation," 
was  built  at  the  mouth  of  the  Oswegatchie,  on  the  west 
side.  The  remains  of  the  walls  of  this  Fort  are  still  to 
be  seen.  In  October,  1749,  it  was  attacked  by  a  band  of 
Mohawk  Indians,  who,  although  bravely  repulsed, 
succeeded  in  destroying  the  palisades  of  the  fort,  and 
two  of  the  vessels  belonging  to  the  colony.  The  Abb^ 
Piquet  retired  from  the  settlement  soon  after  the 
conquest  of  Canada,  returning  to  France,  where  he  died 
in  1 78 1.  Ogdensburg  has  increased  rapidly  within  the 
past  few  years,  and  has  now  a  population  of  over  10,000. 
The  Ogdensburg  and  Lake  Champlain  P^ailroad 
which   runs   to    Lake    Champlain,   a  distance   of    one 


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222       All'Roufid  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

hundred  and  eighteen  miles,  and  which  connects  at 
Rouse's  Point  with  the  railroad  to  Boston  and  Montreal, 
has  its  terminus  here.  The  New  England  Transporta- 
tion Go's  Steamers,  formerly  known  as  the  Collingwood 
line,  connect  here  with  the  Ogdensburg  and  Lake 
Champlain  Railway.  Several  other  railways  terminate 
at  Ogdensburg,  which  is  an  objective  point  of  the  Rome, 
Watertown  and  Ogdensburg  R.  R.,  now  asserting  its 
claims  to  consideration  as  one  of  the  great  trunk  lines 
between  the  east  and  west.  :    . 

PRESCOTT  '  ■ 

Is   situated   oh   the   Canada  side  of  the  St,  Lawrence, 

opposite   Ogdensburg,   and  contains  5,000  inhabitants. 

About      a       mile 

below  the  town  of 

Prescott,  at  a  place 

called    "Windmill 

Point,"      are     the 

ruins    of    an    old 

stone  windmill 

where,  in  1837,  the 

•  Patriots," 


under 


WINDMILL  POINT. 


Von-Schultz,  a  Polish  exile,  established  themselves,  but 
from  which  they  were  driven  with  severe  loss.  About 
five  miles  below  Prescott  is  Chimney  Island,  on  which 
the  remains  of  an  old  French  fortification  is  to  be  seen. 
The  first  rapid  of  the  St.  Lawrence  is  at  this  island. 

At  Prescott,  those  intending  to  visit  Ottawa  will  leave 
the  boat.  Ottawa,  the  Capital  of  the  Dominion,  is  fifty- 
four  miles  distant  from  Prescott,  and  the  journey  to  it  is 
performed   by   railway  in  three  hours.     We  can   con- 


eave 
fifty- 
it  is 
con- 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        223 

fidently  recommend  this  detour,  on  account  of  the  claims 
of  Ottawa  itself,  of  which  more  anon. 

Tourists  wishing  to  take  this  trip  can  obtain  return 
tickets  at  moderate  fares,  and  join  the  steamer  again  at 
Prescott  the  following  morning,  and  descend  the  rapids 
to  Montreal,  which  is  by  far  the  most  exciting  portion  of 
the  whole  journey. 

Continuing  our  journey  down  the  river,  the  next  town 
on  the  American  side  is  Waddington  ;  and  in  the  river 
over  against  it,  is  Ogden  Island.  On  the  Canadian  side 
is  Morrisburg,  which  contains  about  twelve  hundred 
i.  habitants.  A  short  distance  below  Morrisburg,  on  the 
V  .  :j  la  side,  is  Chrysler's  Farm,  where,  in  1813,  a 
bdi-Cie  was  fought  between  the  English  and  the 
Americans.  Thirty  miles  below  Ogdensburg  is  Louis- 
ville, from  whence  stages  run  to  Massena  Springs,  a  place 
of  popular  resort  and  of  beautiful  surroundings,  distant 
about  7  miles. 

LONG  SAULT. 


f^--^>0. 


fHE  increasing  swiftness  of  the  current  of  the  river 
soon  reveals  to  us  the  fact,  that  we  are  about  to 
enter  the  first  of  those  remarkable  and  celebrated 
Rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  "  Shooting  the  rapids  "  (as 
this  portion  of  the  voyage  is  termed)  is  a  most  exciting 
scene,  but  no  one  need  fear  the  undertaking,  as  fatal 
accidents  have  been  comparatively  unknown.  The  rapid 
we  now  enter  is  known  as  the  "  Long  Sault,"  so  called 
from  its  extent,  it  being  a  continuous  rapid  of  nine  miles, 
divided  in  the  centre  by  an  island.  The  usual  passage 
for  steamers  is  on  the  south  side.  The  channel  on  the 
north  side  was  formerly  considered  unsafe  and  dangerous ; 


'iu-m 


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14 


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224       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,  . 

but  examinations  have  been  made,  and  it  is  now 
descended  with  safety.  The  pac;sage  in  the  southern 
channel  is  very  narrow,  and  such  is  the  velocity  of  the 
current  that  a  raft,  it  is  said,  will  drift  the  nine  miles  in 
forty  minutes. 


I  ■ 


BAPTISTK,  AN   INDIAN    PILOT,   STKEUING    A   STEAMER   DOWN    THE   RAPIDS   OF 

THE   ST.    LAWUENCE. 

The  first  passage  made  by  a  steamer  down  these 
rapids  was  about  1 840,  and  then,  under  the  guidance  of 
a  celebrated  Indian,  named  Teronhiah(5r4 

The  rapids  of  the  "  Long  Sault "  rush  along  at  the 
rate  of  something  like  twenty  miles  an  hour.  When  the 
vessel  enters  within  their  influence,  the  steam  is  shut  off, 


All-Rotmd  Route  and  Panoramic  GtaUe,        225 

and  she  is  carried  onwards  by  the  force  of  the  stream 
along.  The  surging  waters  present  all  the  angry 
appearance  of  the  ocean  in  a  storm;  the  noble  boat 
strains  and  labors  ;  but  unlike  the  ordinary  pitching  and 
tossing  at  sea,  this  going  down  hill  by  water  produces  a 
highly  novel  sensation,  and  is,  in  fact,  a  service  of  some 
danger,  the  imminence  of  which  is  enhanced  to  the 
imagination  by  the  tremendous  roar  of  the  headlong 
boiling  current.  Great  nerve  force  and  precision  are  here 
required   in   piloting,  so   as  to   keep  the    vessel's   head 


VIEW    IN    THE   LONG   HAULT. 


straight  with  the  course  of  the  rapid  ;  for  if  she  diverged 
in  the  least,  presenting  her  side  to  the  current,  or 
"broaching  to,"  as  the  nautical  phrase  is,  she  would  be 
instantly  capsized  and  submerged.^  Hence  the  necessity 
for  enormous  power  over  her  rudder. 
While  descending  the  rapids  a^tiller  is  attached  to  the 

rudder  itself,  so  that  the  tiller 
can  be  manned  as  well  as  the 
wheel.  Some  idea  may  be 
entertained  of  the  force 
necessary  to  keep  the  vessel 
steady,  while  descending  a 
RAFT  DESCENDING  THE  RAPIDS,  rapid,  when  it  requires  four 
men  at  the  wheel  and  two  at  the  tiller  to  ensure  safe 


steering. 


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226       All-Round  Route  ana  Panoramic  Guide, 


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All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.       227 

At  the  head  of  the  rapids  is  a  village  of  some  500 
inhabitants,  and  known  as  Dickinson's  Landing. 
Cornwall,  a  manufacturing  town,  is  below  the  rapids  at 
entrance  to  the  canal  of  the  same  name. 


ENTRANCE  TO  CORNWALL. 


DICKINSON'S  LANDING. 


After  passing  this  place,  the  course  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
is  entirely  within  Her  Majesty's  dominions. 

ST.  REGIS, 

an  old  Indian  village,  lies  six  miles  below  Cornwall,  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  It  contains  a  Catholic 
Church  which  was  built  about  the  year  1700. 

LAKE  ST.  FRANCIS 

is  the  name  of  an  expansion  of  the  St.  Lawrence  which 
begins  near  Cornwall  and  St  Regis,  and  extends  to 
Coteau  du  Lac,  a  distance  of  forty  miles.  The  surface 
of  this  lake  is  interspersed  with  a  great  number  of  small 
islands.  The  village  of  Lancaster  is  situated  on  the 
northern  side,  about  midway,  of  this  Lake. 

COTEAU  DU  LAC 

is  a  small  village  situated  at  the  foot  of  Lake  St  Francis. 
The  name,  as.  well  as  the  style  of  the  buildings,  denotes 
its  French  origin.  It  is  also  known  as  St.  Ignace.  Just 
below  the  village  are  the  Coteau  Rapids. 


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228       Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


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CEDARS. 

This  village  presents  the  same  marks  of  French  origin 
as  Coteau  du  Lac 


.K 


All-Rourtd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        23^ 

The  village  is  situated  nearly  opposite  the  Coteaii 
Rapids. 

In  the  expedition  of  Gen.  Amherst  (1759),  a  detach- 
ment of  three  hundred  men,  that  were  sent  to  attack 
Montreal,  was  lost  in  the  rapids  near  this  place.  The 
passage  through  these  rapids  is  very  exciting.    There  is 

a  peculiar  motion  of  the 
vessel,  which  in  descending 
seems  like  settling  down, 
as  she  glides  from  one  ledge 
to  another.  In  passing  the 
rapids  of  the  Split  Rock,  a 
oiDAB  HAPiDs.  pcrson    unacquainted    with 

their  navigation  will  almost  involuntarily  hold  his  breath 
until  this  ledge  of  rocks,  which  is  distinctly  seen  from 
the  deck  of  the  steamer,  is  passed.  At  one  time  the 
vessel  seems  to  be  running  directly  upon  it,  and  you  feel 
certain  that  she  will  strike ;  but  a  skilful  hand  is  at  the 
helm,  and  in  an  instant  more  it  is  passed  in  safety. 

BEAUHARNOIS, 

Is  a  small  village  at  the  foot  of  the  Cascades,  on  the  right 

bank  of  the  river.     Here  vessels  enter  the  Beauhamois 

canal  and  pass  around  the 

rapids     of    the     Cascades, 

Cedars    and    Coteau,    into 

Lake  St  Louis,  a  distance 

of  fourteen  miles.     On  the 

north  bank,  a  branch  of  the 

Uttawa  enters  mto  the  St.  casoadk9  from  entbanob  to  bbauhar- 

Lawrence.     The  river  again  nois  oanal. 

widens  into  a  lake  called  the  St  Louis.     From  this  place 

a  view  is  had  of  Montreal  Mountain,  nearly  thirty  miles 


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230       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


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All'Rouftd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,         23 1 


distant,  In  this  lake  is  an  island,  beautifully  cultivated, 
and  belonging  to  the  Grey  Nunnery  at  Montreal.  There 
are  many  islands  in  the  vicinity  of  Montreal  belonging 
to  the  different  nunneries,  and  from  which  they  derive 
lat^e  revenues. 

LACHINE. 

This  village  is  nine  miles  from  Montreal,  with  which 
it  is  connected  by  a  railroad.  It;derived  its  name  from 
the  first  settlers,  who,  when  they  reached  this  point, 
thought  they  had  discovered  the  passage  which  would 
lead  them  to  China.  The  Lachine  rapids  begin  just 
below  the  village.  The  current  here  is  so  swift  and  wild 
that  to  avoid  it  a  canal  has  been  cut  around  the  rapids. 
This  canal  is  a  stupendous  work,  and  reflects  much  credit 
upon  the  energy  and  enterprise  of  the  people  of  Canada. 

Opposite  to  Lachine  is  the  Indian  village  of 

CAUGHNAWAGA, 

lying  on  the  south  bank  of  the  river  near  the  entrance  of 
the  Lachine  Rapids.  It  is  said  thatjthe  Indians  who  had 

been  converted  by  the 
Jesuits,  were  called 
"  Caughnawagas,"  o  r 
"  praying  Indians." 
Hence  its  name.  This 
was  probably  a  misno- 
mer, for  they  were  dis- 
CAUGHNAWAQA  viLLAQK.  tinguishcd  for  their  pre- 

datory  incursions   upon   their   neighbors    in    the   New 
England  Provinces. 
The  ■  Lachine  Rapids,  which  we  ^now  enter,  are  con- 


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232        All' Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

sidered  the  most  dangerous  of  the  series.  They  are 
however,  much  shorter.  Immediately  after  passing  through 
the  rapids,  we  pass  the  ancient  village  of  Laprairie,  on 
the  south  shore  of  the  river.  This  place  is  interesting 
from  the  fact  that  the  first  railway  in  British  North 
America  was  constructed  from  here  to  St.  Johns  in  1836. 
It  was  first  run  by  horses,  then  by  steam,  but  was  dis- 
continued on  the  construction  of  the  road  known  as  the 
Champlain  and  St  Lawrence  Railway,  now  a  porti  :i  of 
the  Grand  Trunk.  A  ferry  runs  from  the  village  to 
Montreal  three  times  daily.  Immediately  after  passing 
under  Victoria  Bridge,  we  pass  the  long  wharf,  used  as 
a  railway  wharf  by  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  prior  to 
the  erection  of  the  Bridge.  We  are  now  directly 
opposite  the  city  of  Montreal,  the  commercial  metropolis 
and  most  important  place  in  the  Dominion,  and  destined 
to  rival  the  population  and  prosperity  of  some  of  the 
overgrown  cities  of  the  Old  World. 

Before  landing  her  passengers,  the  steamers  run  along- 
side the  Richelieu  and  Ontario  Navigation  Company's 
boat,  and  as  a  matter  of  convenience,  transfer  those 
passengers  who  intend  going  through  to  Quebec  without 
remaining  over  in  Montreal. 

Having  described  the  excitement  of  shooting  the 
several  Rapids,  we  would  inform  our  tourist  that  in 
order  to  overcome  these  natural  barriers  to  the  water 
communication  between  Montreal  and  the  Great  West, 
a  series  of  magnificent  canals  has  been  constructed  by 
the  Government.  These  canals  are  of  ample  dimensions 
to  allow  the  largest  steamers  to  ascend. 

We  shall  now  proceed  with  such  of  our  party  as  desire 
to  visit  the  Capital  of  the  Dominion. 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       233 

MONTREAL  TO  OTTAV/A. 

Securing  tickets  at  Montreal,  by  the 

OTTAWA   RIVER    NAVIGATION  COMPANY, 

the  best  route  is  to  take  the  train  to  Lachine,  which 
leaves  the  Bonaventure  Street  Depot  every  morning 
(Sundays  excepted),  at  7.00  a.  r.i.  o'clock,  and  there 
stepping  on  board  the  steamer  "  Prince  of  Wales,  Captain 
R.  W.  Shepherd,  sail  up  the  river.  By  this  last  route, 
we  have  a  better  opportunity  of  seeing  the  b  'dutiful 
scenery  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Ottawa  rives  .,  where 
they  first  meet  It  is  a  bright  morninf ,  '  nd  the  surt 
glances  slantingly  along  the  majestic  waters,  tinging  with 
golden  light  the  tips  of  the  wavelets  as  they  rise,  one 
after  the  other,  to  greet  his  rays.  A  faint  mist,  like  a 
delicate  veil,  spreads  over  the  bosom  of  the  river,  on 
which  one  or  two  islets  repose,  as  childhood  sleeps  on  its 
mother's  bosom,  yet  it  does  not  conceal  the  enchanting 
beauty  of  the  scene,  but  adds  grace  and  loveliness  to  the 
charms,  which  it  vainly  strives  to  hide.  It  is  soon  dis- 
solved, and  the  light  breeze  wh .;  r  has  sprung  up,  carries 
it  all  away. 

Away  we  go,  stemming  the  current,  until  in  due  time, 
we  reach  Ste.  Anne's,  where  are  a  succession  of  rapids 
which  we  avoid  by  going  through  a  lock.  More  islets 
are  here,  round  which  the  Ottawa  bubbles  and  struggles 
in  its  course,  while  the  pretty  village  of  Ste.  Anne's  re- 
poses in  quiet  beauty  upon  the  bank.  This  village  is 
considered  the  starting  point  for  the  Ottawa  River,  by 
all  orthodox  voyageurs,  as  the  last  church  on  the  island 
of  Montreal  is  situated  here,  and  is,  moreover,  dedicated 


!< 


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234       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


i 


IP 


i; 


to  their  tutelary  saint,  from  whom  also  the  village  takes 
its  name.  Emerging  from  the  canal,  again  we  enter  the 
Ottawa,  having  left  the  St  Lawrence  far  astern,  and  after 
sailing  about  two  miles,  we  find  the  shores  recede  on 
either  hand,  to  about  eight  miles  wide,  and  this  recession 
continues  for  a  distance  of  ten  miles  ;  for  we  are  in  the 
lake  of  the  Two  Mountains,  so  called  from  two  moun- 
tains on  the  north  side,  rising  four  to  five  hundred  feet 
from  the  water.  The  river  divides  here  into  four 
branches,  that  which  we  have  just  come  up,  another 
which  diverges  towards  the  north-east,  and  forms  the 
western  boundary  of  the  Island  of  Montreal,  the  third 
called  the  Dutchman's  Chenal,  and  the  fourth  passing 
Vaudreuil  around  the  Isle  Perrot  There  is  the  Isle 
Jesus,  and  beside  it  Pigeon's  Island,  on  which  are  the 
ruins  of  an  Indian  village.  For  the  purpose  of  guarding 
against  the  incursions  of  the  Indians,  the  French  built  a 
fort  on  the  Island  of  Montreal,  opposite  to  the  village, 
but  both  village  and  fort  have  now  fallen  into  decay,  and 
large  trees  are  growing  inside  the  ruined  walls  of  the 
latter.  This  property  has  been  recently  bought  by  the 
Hon.  J.  J.  C.  Abbott,  M.  P.,  upon  which  he  has  built  a 
beautiful  villa,  where  he  passes  the  summer  months.  A 
few  miles  further  on  we  arrive  at  a  fine  wharf  named 
Oka,  situated  in  the  Indian  Village  of  the  Two  Moun- 
tains. This  village  is  inhabited  by  the  remnants  of  two 
tribes,  the  Iroquois  and  the  Algonquins,  as  the  village  of 
"Caughnawaga,  opposite  to  Lachine,  is  by  a  remnant  of 
the  Iroquois.  A  Roman  Catholic  Church  divides  the 
settlements,  as  the  people  are  all  baptised  into  that 
Church.  Three  or  four  chapels  stand  on  the  mountain 
side.     The  highest  peak  of  the  Mountain  is  called  Calvary, 


;.vfj 


All-Rottnd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       235 

and  on  certain  religious  fetes  of  the  Church  it  is  fre- 
quented by  both  whites  and  Indians.  Now  we  stop  at  the 
villages  of  Como  and  Hudson.  Both  these  places  are  the 
resort  of  some  of  our  Montreal  friends,  who  pass  the  sum- 
mer months  there  with  their  families.  At  the  head  of  the 
Lake  of  the  Two  Mountains  the  banks  contract,  so  that 
the  river  is  not  more  than  half  a  mile  in  width,  and  it  con- 
tinues thus  narrow,  for  about  a  mile,  when  there  is  again 
an  expansion,  for  the  length  of  nine  miles,  forming  the 
Upper  Lake  of  the  Two  Mountains.  On  the  southern 
bank  is  the  mountain  Rigaud,  where  there  is  also  a 
settlement  of  the  same  name.  The  river  again  contracts 
to  the  breadth  of  half  a  mile,  and  continues,  sometimes 
broader,  sometimes  as  narrow,  until  we  reach  Carillon. 
Great  improvements  have  been  made  at  this  place  by 
the  Railway  Company,  by  building  new  wharves  and 
station  houses,  and  here  again  the  navigation  is  impeded 
by  rapids.  A  railroad  has  been  formed  between  the  two 
stretches  of  navigable  water,  and  by  it  we  arrive  at 
Grenville,  whence  we  proceed  by  the  steamer  "  Peerless," 
(Captain  Bowie,)  to  L'Original,  seven  miles  distant. 

About  8  miles  from  L'Original,  situated  in  the  midst 
of  a  most  charming  country,  is  Caledonia  Springs. 

Returning  to  our  steamer  at  L'Orignal,  after  a  few 
pleasant  hours  sail,  we  arrive  at 

OTTAWA, 

Where  we  will  naturally  direct  our  steps  towards  the 
Windsor  House,  S.  Daniels,  proprietor,  a  gentleman 
favorably  known  to  the  traveling  public,  and  one  who  is 
universally  liked  ;  he  spares  no  trouble  to  make  his 
guests  comfortable  and  "  at  home." 


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236        All-Roufid  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,  ^ 

The  "Windsor"  is  centrally  located,  and  within  two 
minutes  walk  of  the  Parliament  Buildings,  Post  Office* 
Grand  Opera  House,  and  new  Turkish  bath.  Telegraph 
office  in  the  house. 

Ottawa  (or  Bytown  as  it  was  formerly  called)  was 
selected  by  Her  Majesty  as  the  new  Capital  of  the 
Dominion,  the  chief  seat  of  the  Government  having  for 
many  previous  years  been  at  the  cities  of  Montreal, 
Quebec  and  Toronto, — in  turns,  for  a  certain  number  o^ 


PARLIAMENT    BUILDINGS,   OTTAWA.  • 

years  in  each.  This  system  was  found  to  work  badly, 
and  the  jealousy  stirred  up  against  the  one  that 
happened  at  the  time  to  be  favored,  made  it  necessary  to 
£hoose  some  permanent  place,  and  Ottawa  was  selected 
as  being  most  desirable.  The  Government  buildings 
have  consequently  been  erected  here,  and  very  much 
credit  is  due  not  only  to  the  architect  who  designed  these 
most  beautiful  buildings,  but  to  the  public  spirit  of  the 


■V:]*^ 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       237 

Legislature,  which  has  found  the  means  of  bringing  the 
work  to  a  successful  termination.  The  Parliament 
Buildings,  with  the  Departmental  offices,  occupy  three 
sides  of  a  square,  on  a  bluff  of  ground  called  Barrack 
Hill,  overlooking  the  river.  They  contain  two 
Legislative  Halls,  one  for  the  Senate,  the  other  for  the 
House  of  Commons  ;  both  being  the  same  size  as  those 
provided  in  •:he  English  Houses  of  Parliament  for  the 
Lords   and    Commons,   and    like   their    originals,  very 


CITY    OK    OTTAWA. 


handsomely  decorated  and  conveniently  furnished.  The 
grounds  in  front  of  the  building  are  handsomely  laid  out. 
A  large  Library  is  also  provided,  which  at  present 
contains  over  75,000  volumes.  The  buildings  are 
designed  in  the  Italian  Gothic  style,  and  constructed  of 
stone  found  in  the  neighborhood.  When  it  is  stated  that 
the  cost  was  $3,000,000,  and  the  position  almost  unique, 
the  tourist  ought  not  to  lose  the  opportunity  of  going 
there,  as   they  alone   are  quite  worth    the  delay   which 


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238       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

must  necessarily  be  devoted  to  the  sight.  The  rest  of 
the  city,  (which  is,  of  course,  increasing  much,  and  keeps 
pace  with  her  sister  cities,)  is  very  handsomely  and 
substantially  built.  Sparks  street,  the  scene  of  the 
assassination  of  the  late  Hon.  T.  D'Arcy  McGee  is  close 
to  the  Parliamentary  buildings  and  the  Russel  House. 

The  Rideau  Canal  (which  connects  the  Ottawa  River 
with  Lake  Ontario),  divides  the  city  near  the  Parlia- 
ment Buildings.  This  canal  is  excavated  at  the  base  of 
a  ravine,  over  150  feet  below  the  roadway,  The  upper 
and  lower  portions  of  the  city  are  connected  by  two 
bridges,  one  known  as  the  Sappers'  Bridge,  the  other 
being  a  magtiificent  iron  bridge  erected  by  the  Corpora- 
tior.>  and  which  leads  to  the  broad  avenue  on  which  the 
Parliament  Buildings  stand.  The  Rideau  Canal  here 
falls  into  the  Ottawa,  after  passing  a  series  of  eight 
massive  stone  locks. 

The  other  chief  attractions  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Ottawa  are  the  Chaudiere  Falls,  considered  by  very  many 
to  rank  next  in  importance,  beauty  and  grandeur  to 
Niagara.  They  are  immediately  above  the  city,  at  its 
western  exeremity.  The  width  of  the  greater  fall  being 
two  hundred  feet,  while  its  depth  is  forty, — the  boiling, 
seething,  foaming  character  of  the  water  giving  name  to 
the  place.  On  the  northern  side  is  the  smaller,  or  Little 
Chaudiere,  and  here  the  waters,  after  their  leap,  seem  to 
go  into  some  subterranean  passage,  by  which  they  are 
carried  off  until  they  appear  again  at  a  place  called  "  The 
Kettles,"  half  a  mile  lower  down.  Of  course  the 
existence  of  such  a  passage  is  a  mere  matter  of  conjecture 
which  we  will  leave  to  the  study  of  geologists,  and  others 
interested,  to  determine.     These  falls  are  crossed  by  a 


^\.. 


.:i: 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       239 

fine  suspension  bridge,  which  leads  to  the  thriving  city 
of  Hull  on  the  opposite  shore.  Before  leaving  Ottawa, 
we  ought  to  pay  a  visit  to  one  of  the  Timber  Slides, 
which  are  tolerably  frequent  in  the  upper  river.  One  is 
erected  on  the  northern  bank,  and  we  will  here  tarry  for 
a  moment  whilst  we  watch  the  fate  of  one  of  those  huge 
rafts  of  hewn  wood,  down  its  headlong  rush.  These 
water-shoots  are  erected  for  the  purpose  of  getting  the 
fallen  trees  from  the  higher  level  down  to  the  river  at  the 
smallest  possible  cost,  and,  wherever  water  can 
be  obtained  in  sufficient  quantity,  this  has  been  done. 
Where  the  descent  is  very  steep,  these  "  shoots "  are 
broken  up  at  stated  intervals  into  long  straight  runs,  in 
order  to  destroy  the  impetus  which  the  rafts  would 
naturally  acquire.  The  descent  on  one  of  the  rafts  down 
the  timber  slide  is  a  thing  only  to  be  attempted  by  those 
who  possess  bold  and  steady  nerves.  To  say  that  there 
is  much  danger  in  such  an  excursion,  would  be  to 
exaggerate  the  risk,  whilst  to  say  that  there  is  none 
would  be  as  far  from  the  truth.  An  application  to  the 
"  boss  "  of  a  gang  of  raftsmen  would,  without  difficulty, 
obtain  the  privilege  of  a  ride  down.  The  population  of 
Ottawa  is  about  30,000. 
Returning  we  arrive  at 

MONTREAL, 

the  commercial  metropolis  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada, 
situated  upon  the  south  shore  of  an  island  (bearing  the 
same  name)  and  at  the  base  of  a  beautiful  eminence, 
known  as  Mount  Royal,  from  which  both  the  city  and 
island  derive  their  name.  Its  population  is  150,000. 
The  island  is  about  thirty  miles  long,  and  ten  broad,  and 


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240       AlURound  RoHtc  and  Pttoramic  Guide, 


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All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       241 

is  formed  by  the  River  Ottawa  debouching  into  the  St. 
Lawrence  at  its  western  and  eastern  extremities,  the 
former  near  St.  Anne's,  the  latter  at  Bout  de  Tlsle,  It 
is  famed  for  the  fertility  of  its  soil,  and  is  frequently 
called  the  "  Garden  of  Canada."  The  site  of  the  city 
was  first  visited  by  Jacques  Cartier  in  1535,  and  .at  that 
tim|^  he  fouq.d  a  village  of  Indians  situated  near  the 
foot  of  the  "fountain.  He  landed  a  short  distance 
below  the  city,  at  a  point  still  known  by  the  name  of 
the  Indian  Village,  "  Hochelaga,"  When  he  reached 
the  top  of  the  mountain,  to  which  he  was  guided  by  the 
Indian  Chief  "  Donnacona,"  he  was  so  struck  by  the 
magnificent  outlook  that  he  named  it  in  honor  of  his 
master,  '•  the  Royal  Mount."  Champlain  also  visited  the 
site  in  161 1,  bnt  the  village,  with  its  inhabitants,  had 
been  swept  away,  probably  by  some  hostile  tribe.  A  few 
years  j^o  a  large  quantity  of  skeletons  and  pottery  was 
discovered  uhder  buildings  on  the  site  of  this  village. 
The  first  settlement  was  made  by  the  French  in  1642. 
In  its  early  history  the  city  was  repeatedly  attacked  by 
the  Indians,  and  in  1684  a  wooden  wall  erected  for 
defence.  This  was  replaced  in  1722  by  a  massive  stone 
wall  with  redoubts  and  baistions.  In  1759,  when 
Canada  was  conquered  by  the  British,  Montreal  had  a^ 
population  of  4,000  souls.  The  streets  were  narrow  and 
the  houses  low.  Some  of  these  buildings  ^^re  still  standing, 
and  a  walk  through  the  two  or  three  streets  still  retain- 
ing their  primitive  buildings  and  narrow  paths, 
strongly  reminds  us  of  the  quaint  old  towns  of  Rouen, 
Caen,  and  others  in  Normandy.  At  the  date  named, 
the  town  was  divided  into  upper  and  lower  town ;  the 
upper  part  then  being  the  level  of  the  present  Court 
16 


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242        Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

House.  In  the  lower  town  the  merchants  and  men  of 
business  chiefly  resided,  and  here  also  were  the  place  of 
arms,  the  royal  magazines,  and  the  Nunnery  Hospital. 
The  principal  buildings  were  in  the  upper  town,  such  as 
the  palace  of  the  Governor,  the  houses  of  the  chief 
officers,  the  Convent  of  the  RecoUets,  the  Jesuits  Church 
and  Seminary,  the  Free  School  and  the  Parish  Church. 
In  1775,  the  city  was  taken  by  the  American  forces 
under  Montgomery.  The  growth  of  the  city  has  been 
exceedingly  rapid,  and  the  view,  as  seen  on  our  approach 


OANADIAK  FAOIFIO  K.  B.  OFFIOEI?,  PLAOX  D'ABMXS. 

by  steamboat,  with   Mount   Royal    for  a   background, 
covered  with  beautiful  villas,  interspersed  here  and  there 
with  tall    spires,  is   majestic,   and    for   beauty    almost^ 
unrivalled. 

The  river  frontage  is  almost  three  miles  in  length, 
extending  from  the  Victoria  Bridge  to  the  village  of 
Hochelaga.  For  upwards  of  a  mile  it  has  an  excellent 
stone  retaining  wall,  from  the  entrance  to  the  Lachine 
Canal  to  below  the  Bonsecours  Market,  which,  with  its 


glittering  dome,  forms  one  of  the  most  conspicuou3 
objects  in  the  right  foreground,  and  contrasts  with  the 
neighboring  spire  of  the  Bonsecours  Church,  one  of  the 
oldest  churches  in  Montreal  We  think  the  view  from 
the  steamer  can  scarcely  be  surpassed,  as  we  sail  under 
the  centre  tube  of  the  Victoria  Bridge,  and  first  view  the 
long  array  of  glittering  spires,  the  lofty  towers  of  the 


CUSTOM    IIOU8K. 


Parish  Church  of  Notre  Dame,  the  well-proportioned 
tower  of  the  Customs  Buildings,  and  the  long  unbroken 
line  of  cut  stone  flanking  the  wharf. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  present  century  vessels  of 
more  than  3CX)  tons  could  not  ascend  to  Montreal,  its 
foreign  trade  was  carried  on  by  small  brigs  and  barquesi 
and  the  freight  and  passengers  were  landed  upon  a  low 
muddy  beach.  In  1809  the  first  steam  vessel,  called 
the  "Accommodation,"  built  by  Hon.  John  Molson, 
made  a  trip  to  Quebec  ;  she  had  berths  for  about  twenty 
passengers.  Now  behold  the  contrast  that  fifty  years  of 
industry,  intelligence,  enterprise  and  labor  have  produced 
— ocean  steamers  of  over  5,000  tons :  the  magnificent 


V^' 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       243        *'pl?-f.J 


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244        All- Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


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i, 


steamers  of  the  Richelieu  and  Ontario  Navigation 
Company,  vicing  in  splendor  and  comfort  with  the 
far-famed  Hudson  River  boats  ;  ships  from  700  to  2,0(5o 
tons,  from  all  parts  of  the  world,  lying  alongside  the 
wharves  of  the  harbor,  which  are  not  equalled  on  this 
continent,  in  point  of  extent,  accommodation,  approach 
and  cleanliness. 


LIVERPOOL  AND  MONTREAL  SCREW  STEAMER. 

The  Richelieu  Hotel,  on  St  Vincent  St  and  Jacques 
Cartier  Square,  the  old  quarter  of  the  city,  has  the  most 
central  situation  of  any  hotel  in  Montreal.  It  is  within 
a  stone's  throw  of  the  steamboat  landing  and  harbor,  and 
adjacent  to  Jacques  Cartier  Square  with  Nelson's  Monu- 
ment, the  Court  House,  City  Hall,  Bonsecours  Market, 
Place  d'Armes,  and  French  Cathedral,  all  of  which  are 
prominent  objects  of  interests  to  tourists.  Mr.  I.  B. 
Durocher  is  a  courteous  host  and  admirable  manager. 
Under  his  progressive  management  the  Richelieu  has 
made  rapid  strides  in  the  favour  of  the  public,  and  every 
year  witnesses  some  improvement,  and  the  inauguration 
of  some  new  plan  to  increase  the  comfort  of  his  guests, 
and  add  to  the  popularity  of  the  house.  His  efforts, 
however,  for  the  season  of  1882  have  outdone  all  pre- 


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246        All-Roiittd  Route  and  Pa  flora  mic  Gu^ie, 

vious  ones;  and  by  extending  his  premises  through  from 
St.  Vincent  St.  to  Jacques  Cartier  Square  he  has 
secured  a  double  front,  and  what  appears  to  be  two 
hotels  in  one.  The  dining,  drawing,  and  reception  rooms 
of  the  Hotel  have  also  been  enlarged  and  adorned  to 
meet  this  great  extension,  and  the  Hotel  presents  a  first- 
class  appearance  in  every  respect.  It  has  accommoda 
tion  for  400  guests,  and  its  cuisine  and  attendance  are  all 
that  can  be  desired.  It  is  the  only  first-class  hotel  in 
the  place  which  combines  the  American  and  European 


plans.  A  feature  of  the  house  is  the  garden  and  Pavilion 
on  the  roof  of  the  house,  from  which  a  fine  panorama  of 
the  city  is  obtained,  and  the  fresh  breezes  from  the  river 
Intercepted. 

The  principal  street  of  the  city  is  St.  James  street,  on 
which  there  are  some  of  the  finest  buildings. 

The  new  Post-office  at  the  corner  of  St,  Francois 
Xavier  street,  stands  prominently  out,  and  alongside  it 
is  the  well-known  hotel,  the  St.  Lawrence  Hall,  whose 
prestige  has  reflected  credit  upon  the  city,  and  whose 


AlURound  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       247 

history  is  coincident  with  that  of  the  prof^ress  of  Mon- 
treal* It  was  opened  in  the  summer  of  1 879,  by  its  old 
manager,  Henry  Hogan,  after  having  been  closed  for  a 
short  time,  and  at  once,  notwithstanding  the  efforts  of 
a  younger  and  more  pretentious  rival,  leaped  into  favor 
with  the  public,  not  only  regaining  its  old,  but  acquiring 
a  host  of  new  friends  and  patrons. 

Passing  down  the  same  side  of  the  street,  the  first 
building  that  arrests  the  attention  is  the  Methodist 
Church,  a  very  commodious  and  well-arranged  edifice ; 
it  possesses  one  of  the  finest  organs  in  the  city.  A  few 
rods  beyond  is  the  Merchants'  Bank,  one  of  the  most 
elegant  banking  edifices  in  Canada. 

On  the  opposite  corner,  across  the  street,  is  an  equally 
fine  building,  the  Molsons  Bank,  which  has  two  frontages 
or  facades  built  of  Ohio  sandstone.  The  shafts  of  the 
columns  of  the  portico  on  the  St  James  street  front  are 
of  polished  Peterhead  granite.  A  little  further  up  the 
street  on- the  same  side  is  an  elegant  pile  called  "Barron's 
Block,"  and  the  building  put  up  by  the  City  and  District 
Savings  Bank,  and  Canada  Life  Assurance  Company, 
both  of  which  have  been  erected  recently ;  they  are 
really  worthy  of  any  city  in  the  world,  and  are  evidences 
of  the  substantial  growth  and  prosperity  of  Montreal. 

Turning  down  St.  Peter  street,  past  Molsons  Bank, 
upon  the  left,  is  a  very  handsome  block,  "  CaverhilL" 

These  stores  are  not  surpassed  by  any  in  British 
North  America.  They  are  six  stories  in  height  The 
front  is  an  elaborate  composition  in  the  Italian  Palazzo 
style,  bold  in  character.  Near  the  foot  of  St.  Peter  street 
runs  right  and  left,  St.  Paul  street  wherein  are 
congregated  nearly  all  the  principal  wholesale  dry  goods 


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248        All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

and  hardware  stores.     This  street  is  a  credit  to  the  great 
enterprise  of  Montreal,  and  is  symbolic  of  the  wealth  of 


--  i!  :-■  '     t. 


...  .,    ♦  . 


CAVKRHILL'a   HLOCK. 

the  city.  Passing  along  St  Paul  street  we  enter  McGill 
street,  on  the  corner  of  which  stands  the  Dominion 
Buildings,  and  directly  opposite  is  the  Albion  Hotel, 
which  for  the  past  twenty  years  has  been  favorably 
known  to  travelers  from  all  parts  of  the  globe,    -;.,  . 


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DOMINION    BUILDIN08. 


We  next  approach  Victoria  Square  with  its  bronze 
statue  of  the  Queen,  and  its  playing  fountains.     Near  its 


m\. 


All'Rotmd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       249 

entrance  are  the  Albert  Buildings,  while  directly  across 
the  square  stands  a  handsome  building  of  Gothic 
architecture  surmounted  by  a  lofty  and  graceful  spire* 


'»t» 


YOU>0  MBN'8   CHtlhTIAN   AHHOCIATiON   BUILDING. 

erected  by  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Association.  In 
it  is  a  beautiful  public  hall,  with  reading-rooms  and 
library  free  to  all. 


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250      \All'Roufid  Route  aiid  Panormnic  Guide, 

Retracing  our  steps  along  St.  James  street,  beyond  the 
Post  Office,  we  enter  a  square  called  Place  d'Armes.  It 
is  not  large  in  area  ;  but  few  squares  on  this  continent,  if 
any,  have  as  handsome  buildings  overlooking  them. 
Here  is  the  French  Parish  Church,  the  largest  in  North 
America,  and  capable  of  holding  over  ten  thousand 
people.     It  is  about  260  feet  long  by  140  feet  broad,  and 


FRKNCH    PAKISH   ClIUUCH. 


the  front  facing  the  square  is  flanked  by  two  massive 
towers,  330  feet  in  height  In  the  one  on  the  left  is  a 
peal  of  bells.  The  tower  on  the  right  can  be  ascended 
on  the  payment  of  a  small  fee.  In  it  is  placed  the 
monster  bell  which  goes  by  the  name  of  "Gros  Bourdon." 
It  weighs  nearly  30,000  lbs.  It  has  a  deep  bass  sound, 
and  was  used  as  a  fire  alarm.     From  the  battlement  a  most 


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All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,         251 


^  •!"'•;/ 


wonderful  prospect  is  obtained — the  broad  rolling  waters 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  nearly  two  miles  wide,  lying  almost 
at  the  feet  of  the  spectator,  covered  with  shipping ;  to 
the  right  the  Victoria  Bridge,  Nuns'  Island,  the  village  of 
Laprairie,  with  its  glittering  steeple,  the  boiling  rapids  of 
Lachine,  the  blue  hills  of  Vermont  in  the  far  off  distance, 
— to  the  left  the  beautiful  island  of  St.  Helen,  covered 
with  trees,  clothed  in  the  proud  prosperity  of  leaves,  the 
villages  of  St  Lambert  and  Longueuil  and  the  river 
studded  with  Islands,  until  its  silvery  course  is  lost  at  the 
village  of  Verch^res. 

On  the  side  of  the  square  facing  the  Cathedral  stands 
the  Bank  of  Montreal,  one  of  the  most  imposing  public 
buildings  in  the  city ;  it  is  built  of  cut  lime-stone,  and  its 
style  is  pure  Corinthian.  Adjoining  it  are  the  offices  of 
the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway,  a  handsome  building  with 
cut  stone  front  and  columns,  formerly  the  headquarters 
of  the  City  Bank. 

On  the  left  hand  of  the  square  are  the  Ontario  Bank, 
and  the  London  and  Liverpoo'  insurance  Company's 
office.  The  former  is  built  of  Ohio  sandstone.  This  row 
is  a  pretty  piece  of  street  architecture.  On  the  right 
hand  side  is  a  fine  block  calied  Muir's  buildings.  The 
fourth  fiat  is  occupied  by  the  honorable  fraternity  of 
Freemasons.  Next  is  the  elegant  building — Jacques 
Cartier  Bank.  The  centre  oi  the  square  is  laid  out  as  a 
garden  with  a  fine  fountain. 

Proceeding  up  Notre  Dame  street  the  tourist  will  pass 
a  somewhat  dilapidated  column,  known  as  Nelson's 
Monument.  As  little  care  seems  to  be  bestowed  upon 
its  preservation,  as  there  was  taste  shown  in  the  first 
choice  of  its  position.     Formerly  the  jail  stood  opposite, 


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All-Roimd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.       253 


and  Nelson  was  placed  in  a'  somewhat  anomalous 
position  with  his  back  to  his  favorite  element,  "  water," 
and  his  face  toward  the  jail.  The  old  jail  is  now 
replaced  by  the  Court  House,  an  Ionic  structure  about 
a  hundred  and  twenty  feet  long,  by  about  seventy 
in  height,  containing  all  the  judiciary  courts  as  well  as 
the  Prothonotary's  office  and  Court  of  Bankruptcy. 
There  is  in  it  a  very  valuable  law  library,  containing 
upwards  of  6,000  volumes.  Adjoining  is  the  new  City 
Hall,  a  most  imposing  structure,  in  the  light  Italian  style 
and  containing  all  the  municipal  offices.  At  the  back 
of  the  Court  House  is  the  Champ  de  Mars,  a  parade 
ground,  upon  which  the  Volunteer  Militia  parade.  Upon 
it  three  thousand  troops  may  be  manoeuvred.  This 
ground  was  used  by  the  British  troops  when  quartered 
in  Canada. 

The  old  buildings  directly  beyond  the  monument 
were  erected  in  1722,  and  in  early  days  served  as  a 
Government  House.  Here  it  was  that  during  the 
occupation  of  the  city  by  the  Americans  the  celebrated 
Benjamin  Franklin,  Charles  Carrol,  and  Samuel  Chase, 
the  Commissioners  of  Congress,  held  their  councils  of 
war,  and  beneath  its  roof  the  first  printing  press  ever 
used  in  Montreal,  was  set  up  to  print  the  manifestos. 
The  building  is  now  known  as  the  Jacques  Cartier 
Normal  School.  Facing  the  Champ  de  Mars  is  the 
Geological  Museum  recently  vacated  by  the  Geological 
Survey  on  their  removal  to  Ottawa.  It  was  built  under 
the  diiection  of  Sir  William  Logan,  the  late  head  of  the 
Geological  Department  of  the  Dominion.  On  the  slope 
of  the  Mountain,  above  Sherbrooke  street,  stands  the 
McGill  College,  while  lower  down,  on  University  street, 


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is  the  Museum  of  the  N^atural  History  Society,  Here 
the  tourist  can  gain  information  relative  to  the  zoolbgy 
and  ornithology  of  Canada ;  and  to  those  who  are 
disciples  of  Isaac  Walton,  the  curator  can  give  any 
information  regarding  the  fishing  grounds. 

The  English  Cathedral  (Episcopal),  on  St  Catherine 
street,  is  by  far  the  most  perfect  specimen  of  Gothic 
architecture  in  America.  It  is  well  worthy  a  visit. 
The  streets  in  this  neighborhood  are  studded  with 
churches — Roman  Catholic,  Presbyterian,  Wesleyan, 
and  Episcopalian — each  tending  to  make  the  ecclesias- 
tical architecture  of  the  city  worthy  of  comparison  with 
the  many  public^  buildings  with  which  Montreal  abounds. 
A  new  Catholic  Cathedral  is  being  erected  corner  of 
Dorchester  and  Cathedral  streets,  to  be  second  only  in 
the  world  to  St.  Peter's  at  Rome,  and  after  the  same 
design. 

The  Church  of  the  Jesuits  on  Bleury  street  is  a  very 
imposing  edifice.  The  interior  is  covered  with  frescoes 
of  incidents  in  the  lives  of  our  Saviour  and  His 
Apostles. 

Erskine  Church  and  Knox  Church  (Presbyterian)  are 
two  fine  specimens  ot  modern  Gothic.  The  Wesleyan 
Church,  Dorchester  street,  with  its  graceful  spire  forms 
a  conspicuous  object,  though  its  dimensions  are  over- 
topped by  the  large  American  Presbyterian  Church 
adjoining  it. 

WINDSOR   HOTEL. 

This  building  is  designed  after  the  style  of  the  famous 
"  Potter  Palmer "  Hotel  in  Chicago,  and  by  the  same 
architect.      The   furniture  and  appointments  are  most 


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All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


255 


costly  and  luxurious,  and  the  house  contains  everything 
proper  to  a  first-class  modern  hotel.  No  expense  has 
been  spared  to  make  it  the  Palace  Hotel  of  the 
Dominion.  The  terms  are  no  higher  than  those  of  the 
first-class  houses  of  the  United  States  and  Europe. 
The  management,  under  Mr.  Swett,  is  unexceptionable. 

QUEEN'S  HALL 

Situated  on  St.  Catherine  Street,  should  be  visited  by 
strangers  coming  to  the  city.  It  is  a  magnificent 
structure  and  its  interior  is  superior  to  any  Hall  in  the 


i^^-tr — 


WINDSOR   HOTKL. 


City.  On  the  Stage  of  the  Hall  has  been  erected  a  fine 
large  Concert  Organ.  This  instrument  contains  50 
Stops,  distributed  over  three  manuals  and  pedals,  and 
is  in  every  respect  a  perfect  specimen  of  workman- 
ship and  construction.  The  wind  pressure  is  supplied 
by  Berry's  hydraulic  engine.  The  cost  of  the  whole 
work  amounted  to  over  $10,000. 

A  little  further  westward  on  St.  Catherine  street  is  a 
pretty  little  Gothic  church  (Episcopalian),  dedicated  to 
St,  James  the  Apostle,  and  beyond  that  again  stands 


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the  large  Roman    Catholic    Seminary,   on  the  Priests' 
farm.      Here    is  a    beautiful    chapel,    well    worthy   of 


CATHOLIC    SEMINARY. 


inspection.     The  grounds  and  gardens  attached  to  the 
Seminary  are  well  laid  out 

Returning  from  the  Seminary  by  Guy  street,  we  visit 
the  celebrated  Grey  Nunnery,  founded  in  1642.     This 


GREY    NUNNERY 

new  edifice  covers  an  immense  area,  and  the  chapel  and 
wards  of  the  nunnery  are  annually  visited  by  thousands 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       257 

of  tourists.  The  old  punnery  near  the  river,  so  long  the 
centre  of  attraction,  from  its  quaint  appearance  and 
solemn- looking  walls,  has  given  way  to  beautiful  ware- 
houses and  stores,  which  line  the  streets  opened  through 
its  former  spacious  gardens.  A  visit  to  the  Reservoir 
on  the  mountain  side  will  repay  the  trouble,  as  a  fine 
view  of  the  city  may  here  be  obtained.  From  these 
reservoirs  the  city  is  supplied  with  water  which  is  taken 
from  the  St.  Lawrence,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  above 
the  Lachine  Rapids,  where  the  elevation  of  the  river 
surface  is  about  37  feet  above  the  Harbor  of  Montreal. 
The  Wheel-house  at  the  termination  of  the  Aqueduct  is 
worthy  of  notice.  The  water  is  admitted  to  and 
discharged  from  this  building  through  submerged  arch- 
ways under  covered  frost-proof  passages,  extending 
above  and  below  the  building.  There  are  two  iron 
wheels  20  feet  diameter  and  20  feet  broad  with  enormous 
auxiliary  steam  engines.  The  reservoirs  are  excavated 
out  of  the  solid  rock,  and  have  a  water  surface  of  over 
ninety  thousand  square  feet,  206  feet  above  the  harbor, 
with  a  depth  of  25  feet.  The  length  is  623  feet,  with  a 
breadth  of  173,  formed  into  two  reservoirs  by  a  division 
wall.  The  two  contain  about  fifteen  million  gallons. 
Total  cost  of  aqueduct,  machinery,  pumping  main  and 
reservoirs,  over  $2,000,000.  With  the  power  here 
supplied  the  Fire  Department  are  enabled  to  hold  in 
check  any  threatening  conflagration,  and  their  efficiency 
is  increased  by  the  Fire  Alarm  Telegraph,  which  has 
proved  a  thorough  success.  The  chief  office  is  in  the 
City  Hall,  from  which  it  has  connections  with  upwards 
of  98  boxes,  the  church  bells,  several  public  clocks,  the 
Observatory  and  Water- works. 

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THE  VICTORIA   BRIDGE 

Ought  to  be  visited.  Visitors  are  allo\vt:d  to  examine 
the  first  tube  without  an  order,  and  as  they  are  all  alike, 
to  see  one  tube  is  to  see  all.  The  Bridge  is  a  wonderful 
structure,  and  reflects  as  much  credit  on  the  successful 
builders  as  upon  the  original  designers.  The  tube 
through  which  the  trains  pass  rests  upon  twenty-four 
piers,  and  is  about  a  mile  and  a  quarter  long.  The  piers 
are  all  at  a  distance  of  242  feet,  with  the  exception  of 


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MONTREAL,   AND   VICTORIA   BRIDGE. 

the  two  centre  piers,  which  are  330  feet ;  upon  these 
rests  the  centre  tube,  which  is  60  feet  above  the  summer 
level  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  At  the  centre  of  the  bridge 
is  an  opening,  from  which  there  is  a  magnificent  view  of 
the  river. 

The  bridge  is  approached  by  two  massive  embank- 
ments, the  one  on  the  Montreal  side  being  1,200  feet, 
and  that  on  the  south  shore  800  feet  in  length  ;  which 
together,  including  the  abutments,  make  the  total  length 
of  the  bridge  9,084  feet,  or  a  mile  and  three  quarters 
nearly. 

The  abutments  are  each,  at  the  base,  278  feet  long, 
and  are  built  hollow,  having  eight  openings  or  cells,  48 
feet  in  length,  and  24  feet  in  width,  separated  by  cross- 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       259 

walls  5  feet  in  thickness.  The  flank-wall  on  the  down- 
stream side  rises  nearly  perpendicular,  and  is  seven  feet 
in  thickness  ;  that  on  the  up-stream  has  a  slope  from  its 
foundation  upwards;  the  thickness  of  the  walls  is  12 
feet,  and  they  present  a  smooth  surface  to  facilitate  the 
operation  of  the  ice,  on  which  account  its  form  had  been 
thus  determined.  To  ure  greater  resistance  to  the 
pressure  of  the  ice,  th  '^  are  filled  up  with  earth, 
stone   and   gravel,   so  ^  ne  solid    mass   was    thus 

obtained. 

The  embankments  are  solid,  composed  of  stones  36 
feet  above  the  summer  water  level,  and  of  the  width  of 
30  feet  on  the  upper  surface,  formed  with  a  slope  of  one 
to  one  on  the  down  side  of  the  stream,  and  a  hollow 
shelving  slope  of  about  2^  to  one  on  the  upper  side. 
The  slopes  are  faced  with  stones  set  on  edge  at  an 
average  angle  of  about  45°. 

The  piers  are  solid,  and  constructed,  as  well  as 
the  abutments,  of  the  finest  description  of  ashlar 
masonry,  laid  in  horizontal  courses  measuring  from  7 
to  12  feet  on  the  bed,  and  from  3  feet  10  inches  to  2  feet 
6  inches  thick  above  the  water  level,  and  thence  varying 
into  a  course  of  18  inches  under  the  plates.  The  stones 
were  cut  with  the  greatest  exactness,  seldom  requiring 
to  be  redressed  after  being  laid.  They  weigh  from  7  to 
17  tons  ;  the  average  weight  of  each  stone  is  10^  tons. 
All  the  beds  and  vertical  joints  are  square,  dressed  in 
the  most  efficient  and  workmanlike  manner ;  the 
external  face  rough,  and  without  any  pick  or  tool  marks, 
but  with  the  natural  quarry  face  preserved. 

The  string-courses  and  copings  are  fair-picked, 
dressed  throughout  and  neatly  pointed  and  weathered. 


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260       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

and  a  tool  draft,  eight  inches  wide,  on  each  quoin.  Each 
course  of  the  ice-breaker  is  secured  with  fox-wedged 
bolts  of  ij^  inch  iron,  which  pass  through  into  the 
second  and  third  courses  under  it,  and  the  horizontal 
joints  are  cramped  together  with  iron  cramps  12x5  inches 
through  which  the  bolts  pass. 

The  description  of  stone  used  is  a  limestone  of  the 
Lower  Silurian  order,  and  known  under  the  Geological 
term  of  Chazy.  The  average  height  of  the  piers  above 
the  summer  water  level  is  48  feet,  gradually  rising  from 
a  height  of  36  feet  at  the  abutments  to  60  feet  at  the 
centre  pier,  giving  a  grade  of  i  in  132,  or  40  feet  to  the 
mile.  The  centre  span  is  level.  Each  pier  is  furnished 
with  a  solid  cut-water  or  ice-breaker,  which  forms  a 
portion  of  the  pier  itself.  They  are  of  a  wedge  form, 
and  slope  from  their  foundations  upwards,  terminating 
in  an  angle,  30  feet  above  the  summer  level  of  the  river. 
The  dimensions  of  the  pier  at  the  junction  with  the  cut- 
water are  16x48  ft.,  but  the  whole  transverse  side  of  a 
pier  at  the  foundation,  including  the  cut-water,  which 
extends  up  the  stream,  is  16x90  feet. 

The  foundations,  of  course,  vary ;  some  are  as  low  as 
20  feet  below  the  water. 

The  whole  of  the  ashlar  is  laid  in  hydraulic  cement, 
in  the  proportion  of  one  part  sand  to  one  part  cement. 
The  backing  from  the  level  of  the  surface  of  water 
upwards  is  in  common  mortar.  The  piers  are  calculated 
to  resist  a  pressure  of  seventy  thousand  tons. 

The  important  part  this  bridge  plays  in  the  uninter- 
rupted transportation  of  the  Western  traffic  with  that 
of  the  Eastern  States — Boston,  Portland,  etc.,  need  not 
be  dilated  on.     It  is  more  than  commensurate  with  its 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.       261 

cost — which  was  nearly  7,000,000  dollars.  It  gives  to 
Montreal  an  unbroken  railway  communication,  the  value 
of  which  cannot  be  over-estimated. 

There  are  many  pleasant  drives  in  and  around 
Montreal,  the  most  popular  being  those  "Round  the 
Mountain  "  and  the  Lachine  Road.  Taking  the  former 
we  leave  the  City  by  St.  Lawrence  Main  Street,  passing 
on  our  way,  near  the  City  limits,  an  immense  structure 
surmounted  by  a  beautiful  dome.  This  is  the  "  Hotel 
Dieu,"  a  cloister  and  Hospital.     The  building  with  its 


HOTEL    DIEU. 


enclosure  covers  an  area  of  several  acres.  Immediately 
after  passing  the  toll-gate  a  road  turns  to  the  left  lead- 
ing to  the  beautiful  "  Mount  Royal  Cemetery,"  the 
resting-place  of  the  Protestant  dead  of  Montreal,  and 
the  grounds  will  compare  favorably  with  the  celebrated 
cemeteries  of  the  Old  World.  The  Roman  Catholic 
Cemetery  adjoins  the  Mount  Royal,  and  is  approached 
by  the  road  leading  to  the  opposite  side  of  the  Mountain. 
The  drive  on  which  we  have  entered  is  a  very  delightful 
one.  A  fine  view  is  obtained  of  the  country  from  C6te 
des  Neiges,  across  the  island  to  the  "  Back  River,"  or 


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Ottawa,  with  its  numerous  hamlets,  convents  and 
churches  ;  and  for  a  picnic  commend  us  to  the  Priests 
Island,  close  to  the  old  mill  of  the  rapids,  Sault  au 
Recollet,  a  delightful  spot,  and  where,  during  the  season, 
a  good  day's  fishing  is  to  be  had. 

The  drive  to  Lachine  will  prove  of  the  greatest 
interest.  The  Lower  Lachine  Road  leads  along  the 
bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  during  the  drive  there 
may  be  seen  the  steamer  descending  the  rapids. 

To  points  beyond  the  island  of  Montreal,  a  favorite 
trip  is  that  to  Belceil  Mountain,  near  St  Hilaire.  The 
latter  is  a  station  on  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  about 
1 8  miles  from  Montreal,  and  where  several  trains  stop 
during  the  day,  so  that  there  will  be  no  difficulty  in 
performing  the  trip  without  remaining  at  the  village  for 
the  night.  From  St.  Hilaire  Station,  the  tourist 
proceeds  to  the  pretty  little  village  of  Beloeil,  whence  he 
is  conducted  to  the  base  of  the  mountain,  which  can  be 
ascended  with  comparative  ease — even  by  ladies — by  a 
circuitous  path,  passing  through  a  maple  grove,  leading 
to  a  beautiful  lake,  formed  in  the  hollow  of  the 
mountain.  This  lake  abounds  with  fish.  This  is  the 
general  resting-place  before  the  as:  to  the  peak. 
This  mountain  is  the  centre  of  great  interest  to  the 
French  Canadian  Catholics.  Ow  the  road  are,  at 
intervals,  wooden  crosses  having  inscriptions  referring  to 
our  Saviour's  journey  to  Mount  Calvary,  and  on  the 
summit  of  the  mountain  are  the  ruins  of  a  chapel  erected 
some  years  ago.  From  these  ruins,  about  1,400  feet 
above  the  river,  a  splendid  panoramic  view  of  the 
country  for  60  miles  round  may  be  had.  The  rich  pano- 
ramic scene  amply  repays  the  fatigue  of  the  journey. 


All-Romid  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        263 

We  shall  now  leave  Montreal  and  proceed  to  Quebec, 
taking  as  our  conveyance  the  popular  Richelieu  and 
Ontario  Navigation  Company's  Mail  Line.  The  two 
splendid  vessels,  the  "Montreal"  and  the  "Quebec," 
make  the   trip   between   Montreal  and   Quebec  every 


H 
O 


H 


night,  except  Sunday,  during  the  time  that  navigation 
is  open.  Any  traveller  preferring  the  land  route  can 
take  the  trains,  leaving  Bonaventure  Station  on  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway,  and  after  an  eight  hours'  journey 
arrive  at  Point  Levis,  opposite  "  the  Ancient  Capital," 


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264       AlURound  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


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Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       265 

(as  Quebecers  are  fond  of  styling  their  city,)  whence  a 
steam  ferry  will  soon  convey  them  across  the  river ;  or 
by  the  trains  of  the  North  Shore  railway,  which  run 
down  the  North  side  of  the  river.  To  many,  however, 
the  most  agreeable  route  is  that  selected  by  us  for  des- 
cription. We  shall,  therefore,  go  on  board  the  "  Montreal " 
or  "  Quebec,"  to  take  a  stateroom,  and  be  landed  early 
next  morning  at  one  of  the  quays  of  Quebec. 

The  scenery  on  this  part  of  our  route  is  not  striking, 
we  shall  therefore  content  ourselves  with  briefly  noticing 
the  principal  points,  many  of  which  our  vessel  will  pass 
while  probably  we  ourselves  are  enjoying  a  refreshing 
sleep.  As  we  steam  out  of  the  wharf,  we  pass  by  the 
shores  of  the  military  Island  of  St.  Helen's,  so  called 
after  the  beautiful  wife  of  Champlain,  the  first  Governor 
of  Canada,  and  the  founder  of  Quebec,  Just  below  the 
Island  is  the  village  of  Longueuil,  a  favorite  summer 
resort  of  the  citizens  of  Montreal. 

SOREL, 

or  William  Henry, '  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Richelieu,  the  outlet  of  Lake  Champlain  into  the  St. 
Lawrence.  It  occupies  the  site  of  a  fort  built  by  the 
Marquis  de  Tracy  in  1665,  and  was  for  many  years  the 
summer  residence  of  the  English  Governors  of  Canada, 
and  here  Queen  Victoria's  father  at  one  time  resided. 
The  population  is  about  5,000. 

Immediately  below  Sorel,  the  river  widens  into  a  lake 
called 

ST.  PETER, 

Which  is  about  35  miles  in  length,  and  about  lO  miles 
in    width.     It  is  very    shallow,   except    in   a    narrow 


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266       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


li,  ,r.«' 

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channel,  which  has  been  excavated  for  the  ocean 
steamers  and  sailing  vessels  of  very  large  tonnage, 
coming  up  to  Montreal  during  the  summer  season. 


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In  calm  weather  it  is  pleasant  sailing  over  its  waters, 
but,  owing  to  its  shallowness,  a  strong  wind  causes  its 
waves  to  rise  tempestuously,  and  many  wrecks, 
principally  of  rafts,  take  place  every  year. 


All-Round  Route  attd  Panoramic  Guide,        267 
We  now  touch  at  the  half-way  port  of 
THREE  RIVERS, 

Situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  rivers  St.  Maurice  and 
St.  Lawrence,  ninety  miles  below  Montreal,  and  the 
same  distance  above  Quebec.  It  is  one  of  the  oldest 
settled  towns  in  Canada,  having  been  founded  in  161 8. 
It  is  well  laid  out,  and  contains  many  good  buildings, 
among  which  are  the  Court  House,  the  Jail,  the  Roman 
Catholic  Church,  the  Ursuline  Convent,  and  the  English 
and  Methodist  Churches.     The  celebrated  St.  Maurice 


CANADIAN   HABITANTS. 

Forges,  situated  near  the  town,  have  been  in  c  peration 
for  more  than  a  century.     The  population  is  12,000. 

BATISCAN, 

A  village  of  little  importance,  is  the  last  stopping-place 
before  reaching  Quebec.  Seven  miles  above  Quebec, 
we  pass  the  mouth  of  the  Chaudi^re  river.  A  short 
distance  from  its  entrance  are  situated  the  Chaudi^re 
Falls.  The  falls  are  very  beautiful  and  romantic,  and 
are  annually  visited  by  large  numbers  of  tourists.  The 
river  at  this  point  is  about  four  hundred  feet  wide,  and 
the  height  of  the  falls  is  one  hundred  and  twenty-five 


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268        All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


i 


feet.  The  course  of  the  river  is  thickly  studded  with 
picturesque  islands,  covered  with  fine  trees,  which  add 
much  to  the  beauty  of  the  scenery. 


CANADIAN   FARM-HOUSE. 

In  passing  down  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  country  upon 
its  banks  presents  a  sameness  in  its  general  scenery, 
until  we  approach  the  vicinity  of  Quebec.  The  villages 
and  hamlets  are  decidedly  French  in  character,  and  are 
generally  made  up  of  small  buildings  ;  the  better  class 
are  painted   white,   or  whitewashed,  having  red   roofs. 


CANADIAN   PEASANT. 


CANADIAN  PRIEST. 


Prominent  in  the  distance  appear  the  tin-covered  spires 
of  the  Catholic  Churches,  which  are  all  constructed  in  a 
style  of  architecture  peculiar  to  that  Church. 


'.i ' 


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All-Rottnd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,         269 

The  rafts  of  timber  afford  a  highly  interesting  feature 
on  the  river  as  the  traveller  passes  along.  On  each  a 
shed  is  built  for  the  raftsmen,  some  of  whom  rig  out 
their  huge,  unwieldly  craft  with  gay  streamers,  which 
flutter  from  the  tops  of  poles.     Thus,   when  several  of 

these  rafts    are   grappled   together, 

forming,  as  it  were,  a  floating  island 

of  timber,  the   sight   is   extremely 

picturesque  ;  and  when  the  voices  of 

these  hardy  sons  of  the  forest  and 

the    stream  join  in   some   of    their 

Canadian  boat  songs,  the  wild  music, 

borne  by  the  breeze  along  the  water, 

has   a   charming  effect.      Many   of 

CANADIAN  BOATMEN,  these  rafts  may  be  seen  lying  in  the 

Coves  at  Quebec,  ready  to  be  shipped  to  the  different 

parts  of  the  world. 

We  now  come  within  sight  of  the  "Gibraltar  of 
America,"  as  the  fortified  city  we  are  approaching  has 
been  called. 

QJEBEC. 

[AVING  landed,  our  first  course  is  to  proceed  to  a 
hotel.  On  this  point  our  choice  would  be  the  St. 
l^lgSP'  Louis,  owned  by  the  Russell  Hotel  Co.  The 
tourist  or  man  of  business  will  have  no  trouble  in  making 
his  way  to  the  well-known  St.  Louis  Hotel,  where  he  will 
always  be  greeted  in  such  a  hospitable  and  home-like 
way  that  he  feels  comfortable  and  at  his  ease  at  once. 
The  St.  Louis  Hotel  takes  the  lead  in  the  hotel  business 
here,  and  is  kept  by  the  Russell  Hotel  Company,  whose 
president   is  that  well-known  veteran  hotel  proprietor. 


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270        All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

Willis  Russell,  Esq.,  whose  name  is  a  sufficient  guarantee 
that  patrons  of  the  St  Louis  Hotel  will  always  receive  the 
best  of  accommodation.  This  Hotel  is  situated  on  the 
principal  thoroughfare  of  the  city,  St.  Louis  street, 
surrounded  by  the  most  delightful  and  fashionable  pro- 
menades, etc.  For  us  to  enumerate  the  distinguished 
people  who  have  made  the  St  Louis  Hotel  their  home 
during  the  past  ten  years  would  be  almost  like  publishing 
the  names  of  the  celebrated  persons  who  have  visited  the 
city  during  that  period. 


ST.   LOUIS  HOTEL. 


^! 


At  this  house  the  tourist  will  find  himself  at  home  and 
surrounded  by  every  comfort  he  possibly  can  desire, 
we  are  quite  satisfied  that  his  experience  will  be  like  our 
own,  and  lead  to  oft-repeated  journeys  to  the  old  city. 

Quebec,  until  recently  the  capital  of  United  Canada, 
is  situated  on  the  north  shore  of  the  St  Lawrence,  in 
lat  46  deg.  48  min.  north,  and  long.71  deg.  15  min.  west 
from  Greenwich.  It  was  founded  by  Champlain,  in 
1608,  on  the  site  of  an  Indian  village,  called  Siadacotia. 
It  is  the  second  city  in  the  Province,  and  has  a  popula- 


AU'Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        27 1 


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272       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


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tion  of  about  65,000.  The  form  of  the  city  is  nearly 
that  of  a  triangle,  the  Plains  of  Abraham  forming  the 
base,  and  the  Rivers  St.  Lawrence  and  St.  Charles,  the 
sides.  It  is  divided  into  two  parts — Upper  and  Lower 
Towns.  The  Upper  Town  is  strongly  fortified,  and 
includes  within  its  limits  the  Citadel  of  Cape  Diamond, 
which  is  the  most  formidable  fortress  in  America,  The 
Lower  Town  is  built  upon  a  narrow  strip  of  land  which 
runs  at  the  base  of  the  Cape,  and  of  the  high  grounds 
upon  which  Upper  Town  stands;  and  the  suburbs  of 
St.  Roch's  and  St.  John's  extend  along  the  River  St. 
Charles,  and  to  the  Plains  of  Abraham.  Quebec  was 
taken  by  the  British  and  Colonial  forces  in  1629,  but 
restored  to  France  in  1722.  It  was  finally  captured  by 
Wolfe  in  1759,  and  together  with  all  the  French 
possessions  in  North  America,  was  ceded  to  Great 
Britain  by  the  treaty  of  1763. 

Quebec,  including  the  City  and  suburbs,  contains  174 
streets,  among  the  principal  of  which  are  the  following : 
St,  John  Street,  which  extends  from  Fabrique  street  to 
St.  John's  Gate  in  the  Upper  Town,  and  is  occupied 
chiefly  by  retail  stores ;  St,  Louis  Street,  a  handsome 
and  well-built  street,  eictending  from  the  Place  d'Armes 
to  the  old  St  Louis  Gate,  and  occupied  principally  by 
lawyers'  offices  and  private  dwellings.  D'Auteuil 
Street  faces  the  Esplanade  and  the  grounds  where  the 
military  were  drilled,  and  is  an  elegant  street  mostly  of 
private  dwellings  ;  Grand  AU^e  or  St.  Louis  Road,  out- 
side St.  Louis  Gate,  and  leading  to  the  Plains  of 
Abraham,  is  a  pleasant  and  beautiful  street,  on  which 
are  many  elegant  villa  residences  ;  St  John  Street  with- 
out, is  also  a  fine  street,  occupied  by  shops  and  private 


M      I 


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All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.       273 

dwellings.  The  principal  street  in  the  Lower  Town  is 
St.  Peter,  on  which,  and  on  the  wharves  and  small  streets 
which  branch  from  it,  most  of  the  banks,  insurance  com- 
panies', and  merchants'  offices  are  situated. 

The  fur  trade  of  Quebec  is  very  large,  and  has  for 
many  years  employed  thousands  of  dollars  capital,  and 
hundreds  of  men.  The  firm  of  G.  R.  Renfrew  &  Co., 
No.  35  Buade  street,  located  directly  opposite  the  Roman 
Catholic  Cathedral,  are  the  most  extensive  dealers  in 
furs  in  Quebec,  as  well  as  Canada.  They  are  the  oldest 
house  in  this  branch  of  business,  having  been  establi.shed 
in  Quebec  for  a  great  many  years,  and  having  ever  main- 
tained the  best  reputation  for  fair  dealing  and  reliability 
in  representing  their  goods.  This  firm  import  and  manu- 
facture all  of  their  own  goods,  among  which  are  to  be 
found  the  choicest  Russian  and  Hudson  Bay,  Sables, 
Canada  Mink,  Ermine,  Grebe,  Fancy  Furs,  and  South 
Sea  Seal  goods  of  all  kinds  and  forms.  They  also  keep 
a  large  assortment  of  Indian  Curiosities,  and  are  the 
most  fashionable  Hatters  in  Quebec.  All  their  goods 
are  sold  at  much  less  price  than  similar  goods  in  the 
United  States. 

The  Citadel,  on  Cape  Diamond,  is  one  of  the  most 
interesting  objects  to  visitors.  The  area  embraced  within 
the  fortifications  of  the  Citadel  is  more  than  forty  acres. 

The  line  of  fortification,  enclosing  the  Citadel  and  the 
Upper  Town,  is  nearly  three  miles  in  length,  and  the 
guns  with  which  they  are  mounted  are  mostly  thirty- 
two  and  forty-eight  pounders.  Until  the  past  few  years 
there  were  five  gates  to  the  city,  three  of  which,  Prescott, 
Palace  and  Hope  gates,  communicated  with  the  Lower 
Town,  and  l\\o  of  which,  St.  Louis  and  St.  John's  gates, 
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274       All-Rotmd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


communicated  with  the  suburbs  of  the  same  name. 
About  three  quarters  of  a  mile  from  the  city  are  four 
Martello  Towers,  fronting  the  plains  of  Abraham,  and 
intended  to  impede  the  advance  of  an  enemy  in  that 
direction. 

Durham 
Terrace,     in 
Upper  Town 
is  a  platform 
commanding 
a  splendid  view 
of  the  river  and 
the  LowerTown. 
It  occupies  the  site  of 
the   old   castle   of  St. 
Louis,  which  was  burnt 
in  1834,  and  was  erect-! 
ed    by    a     nobleman 
whose  name   it  bears. 

The  Public  Garden  fronts 
on  Des  Carrieres  Street,  Up 
per  Town,  and  contains  an 
elegant  monument,  which  was 
erected  to  the  memory  of 
Wolfe  and  Montcalm,  in 
1827.  The  height  of  this  monument  is  65  feet;  its 
design  is  chaste  and  beautiful,  and  no  stranger  should 
leave  Quebec  without  visiting  it. 

The  Place  d'Armes  is  an  open  piece  of  ground,  around 
which  the  old  chateau  of  St.  Louis,  the  Government 
offices,  the  English  Cathedral,  and  the  old  Court  House 
are  situated. 


FACE  OF  THE  CITADEL,    yl'RBEt. 


All'F     7id  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.       275 

The  Esplanade  is  a  beautiful  piece  of  ground  situated 
between  D'Auteuil  Street  and  the  ramparts. 

The  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral,  which  fronts  upon  the 
Upper  Town  market-place,  is  a  very  large  and  commo- 
dious building,  but  with  no  great  pretensions  to  archi- 
tecture. The  interior  is  handsomely  fitted  up,  and  has 
several  fine  paintings  by  the  old  masters,  which  are  well 
worthy  of  inspection.  The  church  will  seat  4,000  per- 
sons.    It  has  a  good  organ. 

St.  Patrick's  Church,  on  St.  Helen  Street,  Upper 
Town,  is  a  neat  and  comfortable  building,  and  is  capa- 
ble of  seating  about  3,000  persons. 

.  St.  Roch's  Church,  on  St.  Joseph  and  Church  streets, 
in  the  St.  Roch's  suburbs,  is  a  large  and  commodious 
building,  and  will  seat  4,000  persons.  There  are  several 
good  paintings  in  this  church. 

The  Church  of  Notre  Dame  des  Victoires,  on  Notre 
Dame  Street,  is  one  of  the  oldest  buildings  in  the  city. 
It  has  no  pretensions  to  architectural  beauty,  but  is  com- 
fortably fitted  up,  and  will  seat  over  2,000  persons. 

Protestant  Churches. 

The  English  Cathedral  is  situated  between  Garden 
Street,  St.  Ann  Street,  and  the  Place  d'Armes,  Upper 
Town,  and  is  a  handsome  edifice,  135  by  75  feet,  and 
will  seat  between  3,000  and  4,000  persons.  This  church, 
which  was  erected  in  1804,  has  a  good  organ,  and  is 
neatly  fitted  up. 

Trinity  Church,  situated  on  St.  Nicholas  Street,  Upper 
Town,  is  a  neat  cut-stone  building,  erected  in  1824.  It  is 
74  by  48  feet,  and  the  interior  is  handsomely  decorated. 

St.  Peter's  Chapel  is  situated  on  St.  Vallier  Street, 


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276       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 

St.  Roch's,  and  is  a  neat,  plain  structure,  which  will  seat 
about  500  persons.  ^ 

St.  Paul's  or  The  Mariner's  Chapel  is  a  small  building 
near  Diamond  Harbor,  designed  principally  for  seamen. 

St.  Andrew's  Church,  in  connection  with  the  Church 
of  Scotland,  is  situated  on  St.  Ann  Street,  Upper  Town. 
The  interior  is  well  fitted  up,  and  will  seat  1,300  persons. 

St.  John's  Free  Scotch  Church  is  situated  on  Francis 
Street,  Upper  Town.  It  is  a  neat  plain  structure,  and 
will  seat  about  600  persons. 

The  Wesleyan  Chapel,  on  St.  Stanislaus  Street,  is  a 
handsome  Gothic  building  erected  in  1850.  The  in- 
terior is  well  fitted  up,  and  it  has  a  good  organ.  It  will 
seat  over  i,ooo  persons. 

The  Wesleyan  Centenary  Chapel  is  situated  on  D'Ar- 
tigny  Street,  and  is  a  plain  but  substantial  edifice. 

The  Congregational  Church,  on  Palace  Street,  Upper 
Town,  is  a  neat  building  of  cut-stone,  erected  in  1841, 
and  will  seat  about  800  persons. 

The  Baptist  Church,  on  St.  Ann  St,  Upper  Town  is  a 
neat,  stone  building,  and  will  accommodate  45 O  persons. 

The  other  principal  buildings  worthy  of  notice  are  : — 

The  Hotel  Dieu,  hospital  and  church,  which  front  on 
Palace  Street,  Upper  Town,  and,  connected  with  the 
cemetery  and  garden,  cover  an  area  of  about  ten  acres. 
The  buildings  are  spacious  and  substantial,  and  the 
hospital  has  beds  for  about  sixty  sick  persons. 

The  General  Hospital  is  situated  on  River  St.  Charles, 
in  the  St.  Roch's  ward.  The  hospital,,  convent,  and  church 
are  a  handsome  quadrangular  pile  of  stone  buildingsr 
well  adapted  to  the  purpose  for  which  they  are  designed. 

The   Ursuline  Convent,  situated  on  Garden  Street, 


^v,. 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.       277 

Upper  Town,  was  founded  in  164 1.  A  number  of  fine 
paintings  are  here  to  be  seen,  and  application  for  ad- 
mission should  be  made  to  the  Lady  Superior. 

The  University  of  Quebec  fronts  on  Hope  Street  and 
the  market-place,  Upper  Town.  The  buildings,  which 
:are  of  massive  grey  stone,  form  three  sides  of  a  quad- 
aangle,  and  have  a  fine  garden  in  the  rear. 

The  Court  House  and  the  City  Hall  are  substantial 
stone  buildings,  situated  on  St.  Louis  Street,  and  well 
adapted  to  their  respective  purposes. 

The  Jail  is  situated  at  the  corner  of  St.  Ann  and  St. 
Stanislaus  streets,  Upper  Town.  It  is  a  massive  stone 
building,  and  cost  about  ;^6o,ooo.  It  is  in  a  healthy 
location,  and  is  well  adapted  to  the  purpose  for  which  it 
was  designed. 

The  Marine  Hospital,  situated  in  St.  Roch's  ward,  on 
•the  River  St.  Charles,  is  intended  for  the  use  of  sailors 
and  emigrants,  and  is  a  beautiful  stone  building  of  four 
stories.  It  was  erected  at  the  cost  of  £\  5,000,  and  will 
accommodate  about  400  patients. 

The  Lunatic  Asylum  is  situated  at  Beauport,  two  and 
.a  half  miles  from  Quebec,  and  is  an  extensive  building, 
■enclosed  in  a  park  of  some  200  acres. 

The  Music  Hall  is  a  handsome  cut-stone  edifice, 
situated  on  St.  Louis  street.  Upper  Town. 

As  the  seat  of  French  Power  in  America,  until  1759, 
the  great  fortress  of  English  Rule  in  British  America, 
and  the  key  of  the  St.  Lawrence- --Quebec  must  ever 
possess  interest  of  no  ordinary  character  for  well-in- 
formed tourists.  Living  is  comparatively  cheap,  and 
liotel  accommodation  equal  to  Montreal  in  every  respect. 

A  city  crowning  the  summit  of  a  lofty  cape,   must 


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278       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


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necessarily  be  difficult  of  access ;  and  when  it  is  remem- 
bered how  irregular  is  the  plateau  on  which  it  stands,, 
having  yet  for  thoroughfares  the  identical  Indian  paths  of 
Stadacona,  or  the  narrow  avenues  and  approaches  of  its 
first  settlers,  in    1608,  it  would  be  vain  to   hope   for 
regularity,   breadth   and   beauty   in    streets,   such    as 
modern  cities  can  glory  in.     It  is  yet  in  its  leading  fea- 
tures a   city  of  the  17th  century---a  quaint,  curious,, 
drowsy,  but  healthy  location  for  human  beings  ;  a  cheap* 
place  of  abode.     If  you  like  a  crenelated  fort  with  loop- 
holes, grim-looking  old  guns,  pyramids  of  shot  and  shell, 
such  is  the  spectacle  high  up  in  the  skies  in  the  airy 
locality  called;  the  Upper  Town.     Some  hundred  feet 
below  it,  appears  a  crowded  mart  of  commerce,  with 
vast  beaches,  where  rafts  of  timber  innumerable  rest  in- 
safety,  a  few  feet  from  where   a  whole  fleet  of  Great 
Easterns  might  float  securely  on  the  waters  of  the  famed 
river.     On  the  plains  of  Abraham  stands  Wolfe's  Monu- 
ment close  to  the  spot  where  the  immortal  British  hero 
expired,  and  near  to  the  well  from  which  water  was  pro- 
cured to  moisten  his  parched  lips.     A  few  minutes  more 
bring  one  to  Mr.  Price's  Villa,  Wolffield,  where  may  be 
seen  the  rugged  path  up  the  St.  Denis  burn,  by  which 
the  Highlanders  and  the  English  soldiers  gained  a  foot- 
ing above,  on  the   13th  September,  1759: — destined  to 
revolutionize  the  new  world,  the  British  being  guided  by  a 
French  prisoner  of  war,  brought  with  them  from  England 
(Denis  de  Vitre,  an  old  Quebecer,)  or  possibly  by  Major 
Stobo,  who  had,  in   1758,  escaped  from  a  French  prison 
in  Quebec,  and  returned  to  his  countrymen,  the  English,, 
accompanying  Saunders'  fleet  to  Quebec. 

The  tourist  next  drives  past  Thornhill,  Sir  Francis 


M 


jtU- Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.       279 

Hincks'  old  home,  when  Premier  to  Lord  Elgin.  Oppo- 
site, appears  the  leafy  glades  of  Spencer  Wood,  so 
grateful  a  summer  retreat  that  my  lord  used  to  say^ 
"  There  he  not  only  loved  to  live,  but  would  like  to  rest 
his  bones."  Next  comes  Spencer  Grange,  then  Wood- 
field,  the  beautiful  homestead  of  the  Hon  Wm.  Sheppard 
in  1840,  and  of  the  late  James  Gibb  for  many  years 
after.  Then  follows  lovely  Benmore — Col.  Rhodes' 
country  seat — Clermont,  Bcauvoir,  Kilmarnock,  Catara- 
qui,  Kelgraston,   Kirk-Ella,  Meadow   ]iink,   etc.,  until 

after  a  nine  miles' 
drive.  Redely ffe 
closes  the  rural 
landscape.  Red- 
clyffe  is  on  the 
top  of  the  cape  of 
Cap  Rouge,  where 
many  indications 
yet  mark  the  spot 
where  Roberval's 
ephemeral  colony 
wintered  as  far 
backasi54i.  The 
visitor  can  now  re- 
turn to  the  city 
by  the  same  road, 
or  select  the  St, 
Foy  road,  skirting 
the  classic  heights 
where     General 

Monument  Erected  at  St.  Foye  in  1863.  Murray,         SIX 

months  after  the  first  battle  of  the  Plains,  lost  the  second, 


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28(1       Ait-RoHud  Route  nutf  Panoramic  Guide. 

2Hth  Aj>Hl,  1 760.-. the  St.  I'oy  Chiirrh  wum  then  o/c- 
cupi«'(l  by  the  Hritish  soMiers.  Next  comes  Holland 
llnnse,  Montgomery's  head-quarters  in  1775,  behind 
which  is"  Holland  Tree,"  overshadowing;,  as  of  yore,  the 
graves  of  the  Hollands. 

The  tourist  shortly  after  observes  the  iron  pillar,  sur- 
mounted by  a  bn»n/e  statue  of  IU'll<»na,  presented  in 
1 8s 5  l>y  Prince  NapoU'on  l^>naparte,  intended  to  com- 
memorate this  fierce  stru^i;le. 

In  close  proximity  appears  the  bri^^ht  parterres  or 
umbrageous  groves  of  Heiievue,  Haniwood,  Hijou,  West- 
field  and  Sans  firuit,  the  dark  gothic  arches  of  Findlay 
Asylum,  and;  the  traveller  re-enters  by  St.  John 
Suburbs,  with  the  broad  basin  of  the  St.  Charles  and 
the  pretty  Islanil  of  Orleans  staring  him  in  the  face. 
Drive  down  next  to  see  Montmorenci  I'^alls,  and  the 
little  room  which  the  Duke  of  Kent,  Queen  Victoria's 
lather  occupied  in  1791.  A  trip  to  the  Island  of  Or- 
leans, in  the  ferry,  will  also  repay  the  trouble ;  it  costs 
very  little ;  half  an  hour  of  brisk  steaming  will  do  it. 
Cmss  to  St  Joseph,  Levis,  per  ferry  steamer,  and  go  and 
bcholil  the  most  complete,  the  most  formidable,  as  to 
plan,  the  most  modern  earthworks  in  the  world.  Drive 
to  Lake  Ikwuport,  to  luxuriate  on  its  red  trout,  then  to 
the  Hermitage,  at  Charlesbourg.  Step  into  the  Chateau 
Bi^ot ;  sit  down  like  Vo/my,  amidst  the  ruins  of 
Valmyra,  and  meditate  on  the  romantic  though  unhappy 
fate  of  dark-eyed  Caroline,  Bigot's  Rosamond.*  Ycu 
imagine  you  have  seen  every  thing ;  not  so,  my  friend  ! 

•  Vo«  will  peruse  Caroline's  pathetic  tale  in  that  repository  of  Canadian  lore,  MafiU 
Lt^tst.  which  you  will  iind  a  trusty  guide  for  objects  without  the  city.  At  the  beauti- 
ful ii><idence  of  the  author  of  that  work  (Mr.  J.  Nl.  I.e  Moine)  may  be  seen  many  relics 
of  old  Quebec,  and  no  one  more  reidy  than  he  to  impart  information  on  the  interesting 
events  of  early  Canadian  History,  in  the  knowledge  of  which  few  are  so  well  acquainted. 


sV. 


Ail- Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.       281 

tell  your  driver  to  let  you  out  opposite  Ringficld,  on  the 
Charlebour^j  mad,  and  the  obliging  proprietor  will  surely 
grant  you  leave  to  visit  the  extensive  earthworks  behind 
his  residence,  raised  by  Montcalm  in  1759 — so  appro- 
priately called  Ringfield  ;  hurry  back  to  town  to  spend 
the  evening  agreeably  at  the  Morrin  College,  in  the  cosy 
rooms  of  the  Literary  and  llistoricjd  Society,  and  retire 
early,  preparing  yourself  for  the  great  campaign  of  the 
morrow. 

To  TIIK  LaKKS  !     To  THE   LAKES  ! 

Here  are  a  few  of  them  : — Lake  Calvaire  at  St. 
Augustin ;  Lake  St.  Joseph,  Lac  h  la  Truite,  Lake 
Philippe^  Lake  Jauue,  Snow  Lake,  Lac  Blanc,  Lac  Sud- 
ouest,  Lac  Vincent,  Lac  Thomas,  Lac  Claire,  Lac 
McKcnsie,  Lac  Sagamite,  Lake  Burns,  Lac  Bonnet — 
xill  within  a  few  hours  drive  from  Quebec,  with  ihe 
exception  of  Snow  Lake.  It  is  not  uncommon  to  catch 
trout  weighing  from  12  lbs.  to  20  lbs.  in  Lake  St.  Joseph 
and  Snow  Lake  during  the  winter  months. 

We  feel  sure  our  reader,  whatever  his  pretention??  may 
be  as  a  traveller,  will  be  delighted  with  the  ancienc  city 
•of  Quebec,  and  have  a  satisfactory  feeling  of  pleasure 
within  himself  for  having  included  it  in  the  catalogue  of 
places  he  has  put  down  as  worthy  of  a  visit  in  his  tour 
through  Canada.  The  scenery  outside  the  City,  and 
all  along  the  river  on  both  shores,  is  exceedingly  pic- 
turesque, every  turn  bringing  a  new  and  varied  land- 
scape into  view,  calculated  to  please  the  imagination, 
delight  the  eye,  and  satisfy  the  most  fastidious  in  natural 
beauty. 


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282      Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 

LAKE  ST.  CHARLES, 
thirteen  miles  north-west  of  Quebec,  is  one  ol  the  most 
picturesque  spots  in  Canada,  and  during  the  summer 
months  is  frequently  visited  on  account  of  its  Arcadian 
beauty.  There  is  a  remarkable  echo  at  the  Lake  which 
tarries  some  few  seconds  before  repeating  the  sound 
uttered.  It  is  then  ^-e-echoed,  **  as  though  the  nymphs 
of  the  lake  were  summoning  the  dryads  of  the  neigh- 
boring woods  to  join  in  their  sport."  To  those  who  are 
fond  of  angling,  the  lake  affords  an  ample  supply  of 
speckled  trout. 

THE  FALLS  OF  MONTMORENCL 
jN  taking' our  departure  from  Quebec,  and  on  our 

way  down  the  river  we  pass  this  celebrated  cascade. 

These  Falls,  which  are  situated  in  a  beautiful  nook 
of  the  river,  are  higher  than  those  of  Niagara,  being  more 
than  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  but  they  are  very  nar- 
row— being  only  some  fifty  feet  wide.  This  place  is 
celebrated  for  its  winter  amusements.  During  the 
frosty  weather,  the  spray  from  the  falls  accumulates  to 
such  an  extent,  as  to  form  a  cone  of  some  eighty  feet 
high.  There  is  also  a  second  cone  of  inferior  altitude 
called  the  •'  Ladies'  Cone,"  and  it  is  this  of  which  visitors 
make  the  most  use,  as  being  less  dangerous  than  the 
higher  one.  They  carry  "  toboggins  "  —  long,  thin 
pieces  of  wood  about  8  or  lo  feet  in  length  by  i  foot  in 
width,  turned  up  in  front, — and  having  arrived  at  the 
summit,  place  themselves  on  these  and  slide  down  with 
immense  velocity.  Ladies  and  gentlemen  both*  enter 
with  equal  spirit  into  this  amusement.  It  requires  much 
skill  to  avoid  being  capsized,  and  sometimes  people  do 


All-Rouvd  Route  ami  Panoramic  Guide.       283- 


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284      All  Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 

iind  themselves   at   the  bottom,  minus  the  toboggin. 
Visitors  generally  drive  to  this  spot  in  sleighs,  taking 
their  provisions  with  them  ;  and  upon  the  pure  white 
cloth  which  nature  has  spread  out  for  them  they  par- 
take of  their  dainty  repast,  and  enjoy  a  most  agreeable 
picnic.     They  do  not  feel  in  the  least  cold,  as  the  exer- 
cise so  thoroughly  warms  and  invigorates  the  system. 
There  are  men  and  boys  in  attendance,  for  the  purpose 
•of  bringing  down  strangers  who  may  desire  to  venture 
•down  the  icy  mountain,  and  to  those  who  can  enjoy 
this  kind  of  pleasure,  it  is  great  sport.     The  drive  to 
the  Falls  is  very  beautiful ;  the  scenery  on  the  road 
through  BeaUport,  where  the  Provincial  Lunatic  Asylum 
is  built,  and  back  again  being  full  of  interest.     The  dis- 
tance of  these  Falls  from  Quebec  is  eight  miles.     About 
two  miles  above  the  Falls  is  a  curious  formation  on  the 
river  bank,  called  "  the  Natural  Steps,"  being  a  series 
•of  layers  of  the  limestone  rock,  each  about  a  foot  in 
thickness,  and  for  about  half-a-mile  receding  one  above 
the  other,  to  the  height  of  nearly  20  feet,  as  regularly 
a!^  if  formed  by  the  hand  of  man.     They  are  a  great 
object  of  wonder  and  curiosity,  and,  being  so  near  the 
Palls,  should  certainly  be  included  in  the  visit. 

THE  LOWER  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 

Having  drawn  toward  the  close  of  our  visit  to  Quebec, 
we  advise  the  tourist  to  at  o  nee  make  his  arrangements 
for  visiting  that  very  popular  resort,  the  Saguenay.  For 
the  past  few  years,  thousands  of  Canadians  and  Ameri- 
cans have  wended  their  way  to  this  famous  river,  and 
the  result  of  their  experience  has  been  to  make  it  still 
more  popular.     None  who  have  been  there  but  have 


A ii' Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.       285 

resolved  to  repeat  the  trip  tlic  first  time  they  could 
possibly  do  so,  and  to  those  who  have  not  enjoyed  this 
most  lovely  of  all  excursions  we  would  say  in  the  lan- 
guage of  Shakspeare,  "  stand  not  upon  the  order  of 
your  going,  but  go  at  once."  All  information  concern- 
ing the  means  of  transit  can  be  ascertained  at  the  hotel 
to  which  we  took  our  compagnons  de  voyage ;  but  in 
case  they  may  neglect  to  attend  to  the  important  duty 
of  seeking  such  requisite  knowledge,  we  would  say  that 
during  the  season  steamers  run  between  Quebec  and 
the  Saguenay,  leaving  Quebec  four  times  per  week 
on  the  arrival  of  the  steamers  from  Montreal. 
These  boats  belong  to  the  St.  Lawrence  Steam  Naviga- 
tion Company.  They  are  elegantly  fitted  up  for  the 
comfort  of  passengers,  and  furnished  with  every  con- 
venience ;  indeed,  there  is  nothing  wanting  to  render 
the  journey  down  the  river  most  delightful.  Once  on 
board,  and  off,  we  find  ourselves  steaming  away  down 
stream  at  a  good  speed,  and  turning  our  eyes  from  the 
city  we  have  just  left,  we  see 

THE  ISLAND  OF  ORLEANS, 

known  in  early  days  as  the  Isle  of  Bacchus,  so  called 
from  the  luxuriant  growth  of  its  wild  grape  vines.  It  is 
situated  9  miles  below  Quebec.  It  is  20  miles  in 
length,  and  6  miles  in  its  greatest  width.  There  are 
several  villages  scattiered  over  its  surface.  Like  the 
island  of  Montreal,  its  soil  is  very  fertile. 

THE  FALLS  OF  ST.  ANNE. 

Seventy  miles  below  Quebec,  the  River  Ste.  Anne 
empties  into  the  St.  Lawrence.  About  two  miles  from 
the  village  are  the  celebrated  falls  of  the  same  name. 


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286       Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 

At  this  point  there  is  a  solitary  vale  of  rocks,  almost  a 
•natural  grotto,  through  the  centre  of  which  the  stream 
rushes  until  it  escapes  by  a  narrow  channel,  and  con- 
tinues its  course,  rushing  downward  with  ever-increasing 
velocity.  The  scene  below  the  cataract  is  very  grand. 
Five  miles  below  St.  Anne's  River  we  pass  Grosse  Isle, 
a  spot  which  ever  recalls  sadness.  Thousands  who  left 
their  homes  on  the  far-off  shores  of  Great  Britain,  with 
hearts  full  of  the  prospect  of  prosperity  in  the  new 
world  of  America,  have  here  found  their  last  resting- 
place.  In  one  single  grave  the  bodies  of  about  6,000 
Irish  Emigrants  lie  interred.  Apart  from  these  sad 
recollections,  the  **  Quarantine  "  Island  is  a  fair  spot, 
and  its  scenery  is  very  beautiful.  At  this  point  the 
river  widens,  and  ere  long  has  reached  such  a  width  as 
to  render  its  shores  almost  invisible  from  the  deck  '^^ 
our  gallant  vessel.  Passing  onward,  until  Quebec  lies 
90  miles  astern,  we  reach  our  first  landing  place, 

MURRAY  BAY, 

or  the  favorite  watering-place  of  the  Lower  St. 
Lawrence.  The  village  is  picturesquely  situated  amid 
frowning  hills  and  wild  scenery.  It  is  a  great  resort  in 
the  summer  months,  and  many  Canadian  families  spend 
the  entire  season  in  this  healthy  retreat.  Every  one 
must  enjoy  a  few  days  passed  at  this  fashionable  water- 
ing place.  The  **  Lome  House  "  is  a  comfortable  hotel, 
well  furnished  and  managed — in  connection  with  it  are 
a  number  of  cottages  which  are  rented  to  summer 
visitors.  Leaving  it  and  steaming  across  the  river, 
which  is  about  20  miles  wide  at  this  point,  we  strike 
Riviere  du  Loup,  situated  on  the  south  shore.     Here 


;1''»K 


^         All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.       287 

those  desirous  of  visiting  the  far-famed  watering  place 
of  Cacouna  can,  after  an  exceedingly  pleasant  drive  of 
about  8  miles  through  the  country,  find  themselves  in 
a  fashionable  place,  containing  some  very  good  build- 
ings. 

Leaving  the  wharf  at  Riviere  du  Loup,  our  steamer 
points  her  course  again  to  the  opposite  shore,  and  in  less 
than  two  hours  we  find  ourselves  at  Tadousac,  which  is 


CACOUNA    RAY. 

at  the  mouth  of  the  River  Saguenay.  This  is  a  very 
pleasant  spot,  and  if  no  more  time  can  be  spared  than 
the  brief  stay  of  the  steamboat  at  the  wharf,  let  us  ad- 
vise the  tourist  to  go  ashore  immmediately.  There  is  a 
fine  hotel  here,  and  in  connection  with  it  all  kinds  of 
sports  for  the  amusement  of  visitors.  The  bathing  of 
this  place  is  also  very  superior.  A  large  number  of  villas 
have  been  erected,  including  one  built  by  His  Excellency 


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288       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


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Earl  Dufferin.  Apart  from  its  pleasures,  Tadousac  is 
interesting  from  its  having  been  from  an  early  period 
the  capital  of  the  French  settlements,  and  one  of  their 
chief  fur-trading  posts.  Here  are  the  ruins  of  a  Jesuit 
establishment,  and  on  this  spot  once  stood  the  first  stone 
and  raortar  building  ever  erected  in  America,  the  home 
of  Father  Marquette,  the  explorer  of  the  River  Missis- 


TADOUSAC. 


sippi.     A  cluster  of  pine  trees  over  200  years  old  has 
grown  from  the  centre  of  these  historical  ruins. 

Getting  aboard  again,  the  whistle  is  sounded,  and  we 
are  under  steam,  and  now  really  enter  the  justly  re- 
nowned River  Saguenay,  and  commence,  as  if  by  instinct, 
to  strain  our  eyes,  that  we  may  catch  a  glimpse  of 
all  the  magnificent  natural  grandeur  that  now  bursts 
upon  us.  - 


All-Roiuid  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.       289 

THE  SAGUENAY  RIVER. 
iHE  Saguenay  is  the  largest  tributary  of  the  great 
St.  Lawrence,  and  unquestionably  one  of  the  most 
remarkable  rivers  of  the  continent.  It  is  the  prin- 
cipal outlet  of  Lake  St.  John,  which  is  its  head  water,  a 
lake  about  forty  miles  long,  surrounded  by  a  heavily 
timber  ed  and  level  country  ;  its  waters  are  remarkably 
clear,  and  abound  in  a  great  variety  of  fine  fish.  Eleven 
large  rivers  fall  into  it,  yet  it  has  only  this  one  outlet. 
Into  the  lake  there  is  a  remarkable  curtain  fall  of  two 
hundred  and  thirty-six  feet,  so  conspicuous  as  to  be  seen 
at  forty  or  fifty  miles  distant,  the  Indian  name  for  which 
is  **  Oueat  Chouan,"  or  "  Do  you  see  a  fall  there  ?  " 
The  Lake  lies  about  150  miles  north-east  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence, and  nearly  due  north  of  Quebec.  The  original 
name  of  the  Saguenay  was  Chicoutimi,  signifying  "  Deep 
water;  "  but  the  early  Jesuit  missionaries  gave  it  the 
name  it  now  bears,  said  to  be  a  corruption  of  St.  Jean 
Nez.  The  scenery  is  wild  and  romantic  in  the  highest 
degree.  The  first  half  of  its  course  averages  half  a  mile 
in  width,  and  runs  through  an  almost  untrodden  wilder- 
ness ;  it  abounds  in  falls  and  rapids,  and  is  only  navigable 
for  the  Indian  canoe.  A  few  miles  below  the  southern 
fall  in  the  river,  is  the  village  of  Chicoutimi,  at  the  junction 
of  a  river  of  the  same  name,  which  is  the  outlet  of  a  long 
lake,  named  Kenokami,  with  the  Saguenay.  Here  is  a 
range  of  rapids  which  extends  ten  miles.  The  Indians 
say  there  is  a  subterranean  fall  above  the  foot  of  the 
rapids,  which  they  call  **  Manitou,"  or  the  "Great  Spirit." 
To  avoid  these  falls  there  is  a  carrying  place  called  "  La 
Grande  Portage."  An  extensive  lumber  business  is 
transacted  here  ;  the  village  has  an  ancient  appearance, 
It 


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290       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 

and  contains  about  five  hundred  inhabitants.  The  only 
curiosity  is  a  rude  Catholic  Church,  said  to  have  been 
one  of  the  earliest  founded  by  the  Jesuits.  It  occupies 
the  centre  of  a  grassy  lawn  surrounded  by  shrubbery, 
backed  by  a  cluster  of  wood-crowned  hills,  and  commands 
a  fine  prospect,  not  only  of  the  Saguenay,  but  also  of 
the  spacious  bay  formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  two 
rivers.  In  the  belfry  of  this  venerable  church  hangs  a 
clear-toned  bell,  with  an  inscription  upon  it,  which  has 
never  yet  been  translated  or  expounded.  From  ten  to 
twelve  miles  south  of  Chicoutimi,  a  beautiful  expanse 
of  water,  called  Grand  or  Ha  !  Ha !  Bay  recedes  from 
the  Saguenay,  to  the  distance  of  several  miles. 

The  village  of  Grand  Bay,  132  miles  from  Quebec,  is 
the  usual  resort  for  those  who  wish  to  remain  any  time 
in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Saguenay.  The  name  Ha  ! 
Ha  !  is  said  to  be  derived  from  the  surprise  which  the 
French  experienced  when  they  first  entered  it,  suppos- 
ing it  to  be  still  the  river,  until  their  shallop  grounded 
on  the  north-western  shore.  At  the  northern  head  of 
it  is  another  settlement  called  Bagotville.  Between 
these  two  places,  the  Saguenay  is  somewhat  shallow 
(when  compared  with  the  remainder  of  its  course)  and 
varies  in  width  from  two  and  a  half  to  three  miles.  The 
tide  is  observable  as  far  north  as  Chicoutimi,  and  this 
entire  section  of  the  river  is  navigable  for  ships  of  the 
largest  class,  which  ascend  thus  far  for  lumber. 

That  portion  of  the  Saguenay  extending  from  Ha  ! 
Ha  !  Bay  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  a  distance  of  nearly  sixty 
miles,  is  chiefly  distinguished,  and  properly  so,  for  its 
wonderful  scenery.  The  shores  are  composed  princi- 
pally of  granite,  and  every  bend   presents  to  view  an 


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A II- Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


291 


imposing  bluff.  Many  of  these  tower  perpendicularly 
into  the  air,  and  seem  ready  to  totter  and  fall  at  any 
moment.  It  appears  awful,  in  steaming  up  the  Saguenay, 
to  raise  the  eyes  heavenward,  and  behold  hanging 
directly  overhead  a  mass  of  granite  weighing,  perhaps, 
nearly  a  million  tons.  Here,  as  at  Niagara,  we  feel  the 
insignificance  of  man  as  we  gaze  upon  the  Almighty's 
handiwork. 


TRINITY    ROCK. --RIVER   SAGUENAY. 


Descending  from  Ha  !  Ha  !  Bay,  a  perpendicular  rock 
nine  hundred  feet  high  is  the  abrupt  termination  of  a 
lofty  plateau  called  **  The  Tableau,"  a  column  of  dark- 
colored  granite  600  feet  high  by  300  wide,  with,  its 
sides  as  smooth  as  if  they  had  received  the  polishing 
stroke  from  a  sculptor's  chisel.  Statue  Point  is  also 
another  gem  of  scenery;  but  the  great  attractions    in 


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All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


the  Saguenay  are  Cape  Eternity,  and  Trinity  Rock,  on 
the  south  shore,  six  miles  above  St.  John's  Bay.  If  the 
only  recompense  for  the  visit  to  the  Saguenay  was  a 
sight  of  these  stupendous  promontories,  we  are  quite 
sure  no  visitor  would  ever  regret  it.  There  is  an  awful 
grandeur  and  sublimity  about  them,  which  is  perfectly 
indescribable.     The  steamers  shut  off  steam  at  these 


CAl'E   ICTKRNITY — RIVER   SAIU'ENAY. 


points,  and  the  best  view  possible  is  arranged  for  the 
passengers  by  the  Captain.  The  echo  produced  by 
blowing  the  steam  whistle  is  very  fine  indeed.  The 
water  is  said  to  be  .is  deep  five  feet  from  the  ba.:cci  these 
rocks  as  it  is  in  the  centre  ot  the  stream,  and,  from  actual 
measurement,  many  portions  of  it  have  been  ascertained 
to  be  a  thousand  feet,  and  the  shallowest  parts  not  less 


quite 

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these 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


293 


than  a  hundred  ;  and  from  the  overhanging  cliffs  it 
assumes  a  black  and  ink-like  appearance.  Cape  Eternity 
is  by  far  the  most  imposing.     It  is  here  that  an  Indian 


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hunter,  having  followed  a  moose  to  the  brow  of  the  cliff> 
after  the  deer  had  made  a  fatal  spring  far  down  into  the 
deep  water,  is  said  to  have  lost  his  foothold  and  perished 
with  his  prey.  We  also  learn  from  Le  Moine's  **  Oiseaux 


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294 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


du  Canada,"  that  two  or  three  years  ago  two  fine  speci- 
mens of  the  bird  of  Washington,  that  rare  eagle,  were 
shot  here,  and,  indeed,  continually  the  flight  of  the  bald- 
headed  eagles  along  the  summits  of  these  beetling  cliffs 
— the  salmon  leaping  after  its  insect  prey — or  the  seals 
bobbing  their  heads  out  of  the  water,  attracts  the  sport- 
sman's eye. 

Nothing  can  surpass  the  magnificent  salmon  fishing 
of  the  Marguerite  and  other  streams,  tributaries  to  the 
Saguenay. 

Before  taking  our  departure  from  what  must  certainly 
be  classed  as  one  of  the  most  picturesque  spots  in  North 
America,  we  would  pause  to  ask  the  tourist  whether  his 
expectations  have  not  been  fully  realized  in  every 
respect,  and  even  far  exceeded.  We  feel  satisfied  an 
affirmative  answer  is  the  only  one  that  can  be  given  to- 
such  a  question,  for  there  can  be  no  two  opinions  as  to- 
the  magnificence  of  the  scenery  brought  before  the 
vision  on  a  trip  up  the  River  Saguenay  to  Ha !  Ha ! 
Bay.  Long  descriptions  of  such  scenery  can  convey  but 
little  to  the  reader,  and  must  be  at  the  best  very  in- 
adequate. The  trip  must  be  taken  before  the  grandeur  of 
the  Saguenay  is  to  any  extent  understood  and  appre- 
ciated. 

Leaving  Tadousac  on  the  return  journey,  the  steamer 
again  makes  its  way  across  the  St.  Lawrence  to  Riviere 
du  Loup  for  the  convenience  of  Cacouna  passengers. 
Those  desirous,  by  so  arranging  it,  can  here  go  ashore,, 
and  take  the  train,  by  the  Intercolonial  Railway,  to- 
Quebec.  Having  sailed  down  the  river,  this  will  prove 
an  interesting  change,  and  bring   them   into  Quebec 


All-  Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


295 


much  earlier.  Those  remaining  on  the  boat,  will,  if  a 
fine  day,  enjoy  the  sail,  calling  at  Murray  Bay,  as  on 
the  downward  trip,  and  afterwards  making  straight  for 
Quebec.  Those  tourists  taking  the  train  at  Riviere  du 
Loup  can  make  connection  at  Point  Levis,  which  is  op- 
posite Queb^,  with  trains  for  the  White  Mountains,  on 
the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  the  next  place  at  which  we 
purpose  stopping  with  them.  Those  who  stiil  ketp  to 
the  boat,  on  arrival  at  Quebec,  will  probably  prefer 
lying  over  a  day,  for  rest,  before  proceeding  on  their 
journey. 

From  Point  Levis  there  is  not  much  to  be  seen,  and 
we,  therefore,  advise  our  travellers,  as  soon  as  possible 
after  getting  on  the  train,  to  get  a  sleeping  berth,  have 
a  good  night's  rest,  and  be  in  good  trim  on  reaching  the 
White  Mountains.  At  Richmond  Station,  which  is  the 
junction  with  the  main  line  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Rail- 
way, our  tourist  can  have  a  comfortable  meal. 

Twenty-five  miles  from  Richmond  is  the  flourishing 
manufacturing  town  of  Sherbrooke.  Here  tourists  going 
via  the  Passumpsic  River  R.  R.  will  change  cars. 

Sherbrooke  is  an  incorporated  town,  the  capital  of  the 
County  of  Sherbrooke,  on  both  sides  of  the  River 
Magog,  and  on  the  Grand  Trunk  and  Passumpsic  rail- 
ways, loi  miles  east  of  Montreal. 

It  contains  the  head  office  of  the  Eastern  Townships 
Bank,  the  chief  office  in  Canada  of  the  British  American 
Land  Company,  several  insurance  agencies,  churches  of 
five  or  six  denominations,  an  academy,  many  stores, 
and  manufactories  of  woollen  and  cotton  cloths,  flannels, 
iron   castings,   machinery,  axes,    pails,    etc. ;  also   saw 


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296 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


mills,  breweries,  etc.  Population  about  lO.ooD.  Tour- 
ists taking  the  Passumpsic  River  Railway  will,  at  New- 
port, connect  with  the  South  Kastern  Railway  for 
Montreal. 


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Continuing  our  tour  via  Granl  Trunk  we  will,  in 
about  seven  hours,  find  ourselves,  after  a  very  pretty 
ride  through  a  mountainous  country,  at  Gorham,  and 
on  landing  will  find  coaches   in  readiness  to  take  us  to 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


2y7 


the  Glen  House,  eight  miles  distant.  There  are  numerous 
drives  around  Gorham,  which  are  all  exceedingly 
pretty.  It  is  a  point  from  which  the  beauty  of  the 
range  of  Mount  Moriah,  Carter,  and  the  Imp  may  be 
viewed  to  the  best  advantage. 

The  first  desire  of  the  tourist  when  he  arrives  at  Gor- 
ham is  to  learn  how  to  reach  most  readily  the  celebrated 
Mount  Washington.  Taking  his  seat  in  the  coach 
he  soon  reaches  the 

GLEN    HOUSE, 

which  occupies  a  picturesque  location  in  the  valley  of 
the  Peabody  River,  at  the  base  of  Mount  Washington. 
Its  position  in  this  vast  arch  of  nature  is  at  once  striking 
and  interesting  to  the  tired  traveller,  who,  drawing 
nearer  the  spot,  finds  the  atmosphere  of  hospitality  sur- 
rounding the  house,  life  and  bustle  at  its  entrance, 
a  noticeable  contrast  to  its  isolation,  and  a  pleasant  wel- 
come after  a  long  day's  journey.  The  management  is 
still  in  the  hands  of  Messrs.  W.  &  C.  R.  Milliken,  also 
proprietors  of  the  Alpine  House,  another  favorite  place 
of  resort  in  the  midst  of  superb  scenery  ;  and  it  is  scarce- 
ly necessary  to  add  that  these  houses  are  as  well 
kept  as  any  in  the  mountains,  and,  everything  is  done 
to  ensure  the  comfort  and  enjoyment  of  guests. 

A  piazza  extends  the  entire  length  of  the  house,  and 
commands  extensive  views  of  Mount  Washington, 
Jefferson,  Adams,  Madison,  the  head  of  Tuckerman's 
Ravine,  and  the  Carter  Range,  all  of  which  may  be  con- 
sidered unrivalled  among  the  many  sublime  aspects  of 
the  far-famed  New  Hampshire  Hills.     The  grandeur  of 


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298 


All' Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


this  spectacle  is  a  constant  and  unfailing  source  of 
delight  to  all  lovers  of  mountain  scenery. 

Stages  connect  here  with  the  Grand  Trunk  Rail- 
way at  Gorharn,  8  miles;  Portland  and  Ogdensburg 
Railway  at  Glen  Station,  N.  H.,  15  miles;  Eastern 
Railway  at  N.  Conway,  20  miles ;  and  Mount  Wash- 
ington Railway,  at  summit  of  Mount  Washington,  8 
miles. 

ASCENT    OF    MOUNT    WASHINGTON. 

The  carriage  road,  a  triumph  of  engineering  skill,  was 
opened  in  1861.  The  carriage  grade  is  12  feet  in  100. 
So  beautifully  constructed  is  the  road  that  no  more  dis- 
comfort is  experienced  than  in  the  same  amount  of 
riding  upon  any  other  road.  During  the  first  four  miles 
the  road  winds  among  the  forest  trees  until  we  reach 
'*  the  Ledge,"  where  the  road  emerges  from  the  forest 
and  the  beauties  of  the  ascent  begin.  From  this  point 
the  road  winds  along  the  verge  of  a  deep  ravine,  be- 
tween Mounts  Washington,  Clay  and  Jefierson.  Passing 
onward  we  have  a  most  charming  view  of  the  Saco 
Valley.  The  path  now  rises  on  a  series  of  plateaux,  and 
ascending  the  last  part  of  the  steep  cone  we  stand  upon 
the  summit.  What  a  magnificent  prospect !  A  horizon 
of  nearly  600  miles  bounds  the  prospect,  and  the  moun- 
tain peaks  stand  on  every  side  as  sentinels.  Formerly 
there  were  two  hotels  on  the  summit.  These  have  been 
united  under  one  management,  and  are  now  known  as 
Mount  Washington  Hotel.  To  enjoy  the  mountain 
scenery  it  is  advisable  to  remain  over  night,  and,  if  it  be 
clear,  the  gratification  will  be  complete.  The  sunset 
is  magnificent  beyond  description.     As  the  sun  sinks  in 


A II' Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


29^ 


the  west,  the  shadows  of  the  mountain  enlarge,  and  ex- 
tend far  and  wide. 

The  great  pyramidal  shadow  of  the  Summit  travels 
along  the  eastern  landscape,  gradually  darkening  green 
fields,  pleasant  lakes,  winding  rivers,  and  the  snug  ham- 
lets that  line  their  shores,  till,  reaching  the  horizon,  the 
apex  actually  seems  to  lift  itself  into  the  haze.  The  line 
of  ocean  is  now  distinctly  visible.  The  western  mountains 
are  glowing  with  golden  light.  The  sun  goes  down  in 
a  blaze  of  glory.  Then,  as  the  shadows  deepen,  the 
mists  begin  to  collect  on  the  surface  of  every  lake,  and 
pond,  and  brook,  till  it  seems  as  though  each  little  sheet 
of  water  was  blankei  d  and  tucked  in  beneath  its  own 
coverlet  of  cloud,  to  spend  the  night  in  undisturbed  re- 
pose. Soon  the  Great  Gulf — the  deep  ravines  on  either 
side — is  filled  with  vapor,  which,  accumulating  every 
moment,  comes  rushing  up  the  slopes  of  the  mountain 
till  all  the  hollows  are  full  to  the  brim.  Then  the 
surrounding  summits  peer  out,  lifting  their  heads  above 
the  dense  masses.  It  seems  as  though  one  could  walk 
across  to  Clay,  Jefferson,  Adams  and  Madison  upon  this 
broad  plattorm  of  mist.  Should  this  phenomenon  occur 
before  sunset,  as  sometimes  it  does,  the  effect  is  in- 
describably beautiful  and  grand,  as  if  bridges  of 
burnished  gold  had  been  thrown  across  the  deep 
chasms  from  mountain  top  to  mountain  top.  Through 
the  long  twilight  these  magical  and  shifting  scenes  con- 
tinue till  the  hour  of  retiring  comes.  At  early  dawn  the 
traveller  is  aroused  to  witness  the  reverse  of  the  picture 
which  he  saw  on  the  previous  evening.  The  sun  comes 
up  from  the  sea,  the  great  pyramid  of  shadow  begin- 


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300 


All- Round  Rome  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


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ning  in  the  west  gradually  contracts,  the  little  cloud 
blankets  rise  from  the  lakes  and  float  away  into  the 
upper  air,  and  the  sun,  "  as  a  bridegroom  coming  out  of 
his  chamber,"  clothed  in  light,  "  rejoiceth  as  a  strong 
man  to  run  a  race." 

There  are  many  other  pleasant  trips  to  be  made  from 
the  Glen  House,  one  being  a  ride  to  the  Imp,  passing 


EMERALD   POOL. 


the  Garnet  Pools,  where  the  rocks  for  some  distance  are 
curiously  worn  and  polished  by  the  action  of  the  water. 
Next  are  the  Thompson  Falls,  a  series  of  delightful 
cascades  and  water  slides.     We  then  reach  the  Emerald 


-'■■S'' 


All- Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.       301 

Pool,  a  beautiful  spot,  the  theme  of  many  a  poet's  song, 
and  a  subject  for  the  artist's  pencil.  After  tossing  and 
tumbling  among  rocks  here,  the  pool  flows  into  a  quiet 
basin,  where  resting  itself  for  a  short  time,  it  again 
emerges  to  recommence  its  toilsome  journey. 
Four  miles  from  the  hotel  is  situated  the 

GLEN   ELlJS  FALLS, 

a  narrow  cataract  which  falls  from  a  great  height  into  a 


GLEN   ELLIS   FALLS. 


shallow  basin  below.     This  fall  is  very   beautiful,  an  J 
amply  repays  the  time  occupied  in  reaching  it. 
We  next  visit  the 


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302       All'Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


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CRYSTAL   CASCADE, 

about  one  mile  from  the  Glen  Ellis  Falls.  Its  descent 
is  about  eighty  feet.  At  Glen  Ellis  the  whole  stream 
pitches  in  one  tide,  but  here  the  water  is  spread  to  the 
utmost,  and  the  appearance  of  the  cascade  has  been 


CRYSTAL  CASCADE. 


compared  to  an  "  inverted  liquid  plume,"  a  very  happy 
simile. 

tuckerman's  ravine 

is  a  tremendous  gulf  on  the  south  side  of  Mount  Wash- 
ington.    It  has  been  called  the  Mountain  Coliseum,   nd 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.       303 

it  is  hard  to  realize  the  grandeur  of  the  scenery  here 
presented. 

We  now  leave  the  Glen  and  continue  our  journey  to 
the  Crawford  House.     The  stages  run  twice  a  day  to 


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connect  with  the  trains  of  the  Portland  and  Ogdens- 
burg  R.  R.  at  Glen  Station.  On  leaving  the  Glen 
House  the  road  lies  towards  the  south.  Passing  onward 
we  enter 


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304      All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


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PINKHAM  NOTCH, 

passing  through  which  we  speedily  reach  Jackson.  A 
mile  beyond  this  are  the  Goodish  Falls,  the  largest  per- 
pendicular fall  to  be  seen  among  the  mountains.  Soon 
after  leaving  the  falls  we  reach  Glen  Station,  where  we 
take  the  cars.  ^As  we  proceed  up  the  Saco  Valley  we 
have  before  us  to  the  left  the  three  peaks  of  "  Tremont," 
and  directly  behind  we  see  the  noble  form  of  old  Kear- 
sage.     At  last 

CRAWFORD  NOTCH 

bursts  upon  our  view,  and .  looking  up  the  gorge  we 
have  Mount  Webster  on  our  right,  Willey  on  the  left, 
with  Mount  Willard  forming  the  centre  of  the  picture. 

No  traveler  through  the  mountains  should  miss  the 
view  from  Mount  Willard.  The  summit  is  reached 
from  the  Crawford  House  by  the  carriage  road,  a  dis- 
tance of  a  mile  and  a  half  The  view  is  one  of  the  most 
surprising  in  the  mountains.  The  valley  and  the  Saco 
River  are  nearly  twenty-five  hundred  feet  below.  The 
view  is  grand  in  the  extreme,  and  here  at  one  glance 
can  be  seen  a  greater  part  of  the  White  Mountain  Notch. 
The  best  time  to  see  it  is  two  or  three  hours  before  sun- 
set, when  the  lengthening  shadows  are  creeping  down  the 
western  side  of  the  Notch,  and  begin  to  extend  up  the 
sloping  sides  of  Mount  Webster.  This  view  is  in  some 
respects  more  beautiful  and  startling  than  any  seen 
from  Mount  Washington. 

Descending  into  the  Notch,  a  short  distance  brings  us 
to  a  point  where  stands  the  Willey  House,  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  two  thoui>and  feet,  made  famous  by  the  slide  of 


AH-Rottnd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.       305 

August  28th,  1826,  when  the  face  of  Mount  Willey  slid 
into  the  Notch  below,  and  in  which  the  entire  Willey 
family  perished.  No  one  can  visit  the  old  house,  the 
rock  in  its  rear  which  parted  the  slide,  and  the  spot 
where  the  remains  of  some  of  the  victims  were  found, 
without  sharing  the  feelings  of  those  who  went  in  search 
of  them. 

The  road  now  winds  up  a  narrow  ravine  for  about 
three  miles,  and  as  this  is  generally  traversed  towards 
evening,  the  scene  is  one  of  gloomy  grandeur.  With 
dark  rocky  walls,  2,000  feet  high  on  either  hand,  we 
feel  our  own  nothingness,  and  a  feeling  of  relief  is  ex- 
perienced when  we  emerge  from  the  defile,  and  see  but 
a  short  distance  before  us  the  Crawford  House  a 
large  new  edifice,  very  commodious  and  agreeable. 
No  more  pleasing  landscape  can  be  found  than  that 
which  is  seen  from  the  hotel  piazza.  A  wide  lawn  and 
the  acid  little  lake,  the  source  of  the  Saco,  comes  under 
the  eye.  Beyond  is  the  Notch,  with  Mount  Webster 
on  the  left  and  Mount  Willard  on  the  right.  .»  more 
quiet  and  restful  view  is  not  had  in  any  place.  Here 
the  cares  of  life  are  forgotten  and  the  old  grow  young  in 
spirit.  The  air  is  invigorating  and  stimulates  the  body 
and  mind  to  greater  activity.  The  hotel  is  lighted  with 
gas  throughout.  Our  space  will  not  permit  of  an  extend- 
ed notice  of  all  the  points  of  interest  encircling  this  spot. 
A  visit  to  Mount  Willard  will  certainly  be  made.  The 
ascent  is  very  easy  and  pleasant,  while  the  view  from  the 
summit  aflfords  more  pleasure  than  far  more  lofty  peaks. 
Near  the  summit  is  a  remarkable  cavern,  worthy  of  a 
visit.  In  the  Notch  are  many  points  of  interest.  The 
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306      All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 

Flume,  three-quarters  of  a  mile  from  the  hotel,  derives 
its  name  from  the  narrow  and  deep  ravine  through  which 
the  waters  of  a  mountain  stream  rush  with  great  rapid- 
ity.    Silver  Cascade,  a  short  walk  below  the  entrance 
of  the  Notch  and   Ripley  Falls,  six  miles  below  the 
Crawford  House,  are  well  worth  seeing,  especially  in 
times   of  high   water.     The  great  feat,  however,  will 
be  the  ascent    of    Mount  Washington,   distant  about 
nine   miles   from   the   hotel.      There   are    special   at- 
tractions in  the  old  bridle  path,  which  to  many  surpass 
those  of  stage  or  railway  travel,  therefore  it  is  not  to  be 
wondered  at  that  so  many  ascend  by  this  route.     We 
first  scale  Mount  Clinton,  4,200  feet,  from  the  summit 
of  which  a  noble  view  is  obtained.     We  now  descend  to 
the  ridge  which  joins  Clinton  to  Mount  Pleasant,  and 
taking  the  path  around  the  southern  side  of  the  moun- 
tain, we  come  to  a  plain  lying  at  the  foot  of  Mount 
Franklin,  which  we  ascend,  and  the  view  is  extremely 
grand.     Passing  Mount  Monroe,  several  hundred  feet 
below  the  summit,  and  winding  round  it,  we  gain  our 
first  view  of  Mount  Washington,  which  we  ascend  by 
the  south-western  side.     The  view  from  the  summit  we 
have  already  described.     From  our   lofty  position  we 
shall  descend  by  the  Mount  Washington  Railway. 

This  road  was  commenced  in  1866,  and  the  success 
which  has  attended  the  enterprise  has  been  very|marked. 
Few  people  now  visit  the  mountains  without  making 
the  journey  one  way  at  least  by  rail.  The  descent  to 
the  terminus  is  2,625  ^^^^y  ^^^  terminus  being  2,668  feet 
above  the  water.  The  greatest  grade  is  1,980  feet  to 
the   mile.     The  road  is  most  substantially  built,  and. 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.       307 

besides  the  usual  rails,  there  is  a  centre  rail,  of  peculiar 
construction,  to  receive  the  motive  power.  This  con- 
sists of  two  bars  of  iron  with  cross  pieces  every  four 
inches,  and  a  centre  cog-wheel  in  the  locomotive  plays 
into  this  rail. 


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The  locomotive,  as  it  first  comes  out  of  the  house, 
has  the  appearance  of  being  ready  to  fall  over.  As  soon 
as  it  commences  the  ascent  it  stands  upright,  the  slant 
being  given  to  it  to  secure  more  uniform  action.  The 
driving  wheel  is  geared  into  a  smaller  wheel,  which  con- 


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308      All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


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nects  directly  with  the  crank.  Four  revolutions  of  the 
engine  are  required  to  make  one  of  the  driving  ^vheels^ 
thus  sacrificing  speed  to  power.  The  engine  is  not  con- 
nected to  the  car,  but  simply  pushes  the  car  up  the 
track.  On  the  return  it  allows  the  car  to  follow  it  down.' 
at  a  slow  rate  of  speed. 

To  protect  the  train  from  accident,  a  wrought-iron 
dog  constantly  plays  into  notches  on  the  driving  wheel 
so  that  if  any  part  of  the  machinery  gives  way,  the 
train  is  arrested  where  it  is.  There  are  also  the  usual 
friction  brakes,  and  in  addition,  atmospheric  brakes  on 
each  side  of  the  car.  These  last  alone  are  sufficient  to 
stop  the  car  and  hold  it  in  any  position. 

The  cars  are  comfortable  and  easy,  and  the  trip  is 
made  without  danger  or  fatigue.  The  cars  are  provided 
with  seats  placed  at  an  angle,  which  brings  theni  nearly 
on  a  level  on  the  ascent.  They  all  face  down  the  moun- 
tains. There  is,  however,  an  aisle  in  the  car,  and  platforms 
at  each  end,  so  that  views  may  be  had  from  all  direc- 
tions. 

Having  reached  the  lower  terminus  of  the  railroad 
we  proceed  by  rail  to  the  Fabyan  House,  or  Crawford 
House,  at  either  of  which  points  we  may,  if  desirable,, 
take  the  Portland  and  Ogdensburg  Railway  to  North 
Conway,  and  Portland,  or  Boston.  Visitors  at  the  moun- 
tains, in  whose  itinerary  the  "  Portland  and  Ogdensburg*^ 
may  not  have  been  included,  will  find  trains  convenient- 
ly arranged  for  excursions  from  the  Crawford  or 
Fabyan  Houses,  through  the  celebrated  White  Moun- 
tain Notch,  to  North  Conway  and  back,  or  to  the 
cool  and  bracing  airs  and  numerous  attractions  of  Port- 


A^l'Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       309 

land  and  the  sea  shore  resorts  in  its  vicinity.  In  another 
place  we  fully  descrbe  this  pleasant  route. 

We  now  propose  starting  on  a  tour  from  the  terminus 
of  the  Mount  Washington  Railway,  the  Franconia  Range. 
Passing  the  Fabyan  House,  a  fine  new  hotel,  we  speedily 
reach  the  lower  Ammonoosuc  Falls,  a  singularly  beau- 
tiful and  attractive  cascade.  Having  rested,  we  make  our 
arrangements  for  our  mountain  trips,  and  shortly  after 
leaving  the  hotel,  we  cross  the  Ammonoosuc  Bridge  and 
-enter  the  village  of  Bethlehem,  a  place  of  considerable 
attraction  for  persons  spending  a  few  weeks  in  this  region. 
Pursuing  our  onward  course  we  ascend  a  high  hill,  from 
the  summit  of  which  we  have  the  whole  of  the  Franco- 
nia Ridge  before  us,  while  to  the  right  is  the  Notch, 
^ith  its  dark  opening.  Descending  the  hill  and  coursing 
the  valley,  we  begin  the  ascent  of  the  Notch,  and  thread- 
ing our  way  along  its  ravines,  we  reach  the 

TWIN  MOUNTAIN   HOUSE, 

which  stands  on  a  plateau  which  overlooks  the  Am- 
monoosuc River,  within  five  miles  of  the  Fabyan  House, 
and  is  surrounded  by  some  of  the  finest  scenery  in  the 
mountain  region.  The  view  from  the  piazzas  and  the 
observatory  is  unsurpassed  for  beauty  and  grandeur. 
The  great  mountain  summits  are  seen  on  either  hand. 
On  the  south  are  Lafayette,  Haystack  and  the  Twins. 
On  the  east  is  the  entire  White  Motmtain  range  from 
Mount  Washington  to  Mount  Webster,  the  latter  form- 
ing one  side  of  the  celebrated  White  Mountain  Notch. 
This  is  the  centre  of  a  great  basin,  and  more  mountain 
summits  can  be  seen  from  this  hotel  than  any  other  in 
the  mountains.     The  great  wall  of  living  green  which 


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310      All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 

rises  across  the  Ammonoosuc  and  in  front  of  the  house 
is  a  pleasing  object  for  the  eye  to  rest  upon,  while  the 
ever-flowing  river  which  winds  below,  over  rapids  and 
through  beautiful  meadows,  makes  sweet  music  to  the  ear. 

Profile  House. 

This  favorite  summer  resort,  situated  nineteen  hundred 
and  seventy-two  feet  above  tide-water,  has  long  been 
known  and  appreciated  by  thousands  of  summer  visi- 
tors. Its  location  is  well  described  by  the  Rev.  Dr. 
Prime :  "  A  plain  of  a  few  cleared  acres  in  extent,  in  a 
gorge  that  admits  the  passage  of  a  narrow  carriage-way, 
mountains  twd  thousand  feet  high  rising  almost  per- 
pendicularly on  each  side,  with  two  lovely  lakes  lying 
under  the  hills  and  skirted  with  forests,  has  been  chosen 
as  a  summer  resort  and  the  site  of  a  magnificent  hotel, 
in  which  five  hundred  guests  find  refreshment  and  a  cool 
retreat  from  the  torrid  heat  that  blights  the  world  below. 
It  is  never  hot  at  the  Profile  House."  The  ample 
grounds,  commanding  wide  and  beautiful  views,  are 
crowded  during  the  pleasure  season  with  a  happy  com- 
pany, gathered  from  all  parts  of  the  land,  who  find  here 
that  cleanliness  and  attention,  with  that  ample  and  sub- 
stantial profusion  of  viands  v/hich  mountain  air  and 
exercise  make,  more  than  elsewhere,  a  necessity. 

The  parlor  and  dining  hall  are  spacious  and  elegant 
(about  130  by  50  feet  area),  and  the  whole  building  is 
lighted  with  gas.  The  telegraph  runs  to  this  point,, 
and  the  man  of  business  may  receive  his  mails  with 
regularity,  and  send  his  commands  along  the  wires,, 
while  he  gathers  strength  in  the  mountain  air,  and  mar- 
vels among  the  mysteries  of  the  hills.     Many  improve- 


mV. 


A II' Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        3X1 

ments  are  yearly  made.     The  furnishing  is  elegant  and 
complete,  and  the  location  superior. 

HOW  TO   REACH   THE   PROFILE   HOUSE. 


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All  railjand  through  in  the  day  from  Boston,  New- 
port, New  York,  Saratoga,  Lake  George,  Montrea',  Que- 
bec,  Portland,  etc.,  via  Profile  and    Franconia    Notch 


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312        All- Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 

R.  R.,  ^roni  Bjtlilolienijstatioii,  or  by  daily  stages  via 
Flume  House  and  PeinigcwaBse*:  Valley,  connecting  at 
Plymouth  with  trains  of  B.  C.  &  M.  R.  R.  to  and  from 
Boston,  New  York,  and  all  points. 

FRANCONIA   NOTCH, 

in  which  the  Profile  House  is  situated,  is  a  pass  about 
five  miles  in  extent,  between  the  Wcsark,  Lafayette  and 
Mount  Cannon. 

The  Franconia  hills,  v/ith  their  beautifuP  scenery,  are 
the  theme  of  admiration  to  the  tourist. 

The  grandeur  is  not  overpowering,  as  at  the  White 
Mountains,  but,  for  quiet  beauty  and  repose,  the  Notch 
cannot  be  excelled. 

Near  the  Profile  House,  northward,  a  short  distance,  lies 

ECHO   LAKE, 

a  clear,  limpid  sheet  of  water,  two  hundred  rods  from 
the  Profile  House,  of  great  depth  and  transparency, 
encircled  by  rare  scenery.  Here  are  the  centres  of  the 
most  marvellous  echoes  ;  the  human  voice  will  be 
echoed  distinctly  several  times,  while  the  report  of  a  gun 
breaks  upon  the  rocks  like  the  roar  of  artillery.  The 
Indians  believed  that  these  echoes  were  the  voice  of 
the  Great  Spirit. 

Our  space  forbids  lengthy  notices  of  all  the  points  of 
interest  in  this  vicinity.  We  shall,  therefore,  merely 
name  the  more  prominent. 

Eagle  Cliflf,  a  magnificent  bold, promontory,  almost 
overhangs  the  hotel ;  but  the  sight  of  sights  is  the  cele- 
brated Profile,  or  Cannon  Mountain,  directly  opposite 
the  cliff.     It  derives  the  latter  name  from  a  group  of 


■•;. 


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All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.        313 


mighty  rocks  upon  its  summit,  which,  viewed  from  the 
hotel,  looks  like  a  mountedcannon.  The  former  name, 
however,  is  its  most  familiar  title. 

The  most  attractive  point  of  interest  is  the  Old  Man 
of  the  Mountain,  or  the  Great  Stone  Kace,  which  hangs 


ECHO    LAKE. 


Upon  one  of  the  highest  ciifts,  twelve  hundred  feet  above 
Profile  Lake  —  a  piece  of  sculpture  older  than  the 
Sphinx.  This  strange  apparition,  so  admirably  coun- 
terfeiting the  human  face,  is  eighty  feet  long  from  the 
chin  to  the  top  of  the  forehead,  and  is  formed  of  three 
distinct  masses  of  rock,  one  making  the  forehead, 
another  the  nose  and  upper  lip,  and  a  third  the  chin. 


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314        Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 

The  rocks  are  brought  into  the  proper  relation  to  form 
the  profile  at  one  point  only,  namely  upon  the  road 
through  the  Notch,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  south  of  the 
Profile  House.  The  fice  is  boldly  and  clearly  relieved 
against    the    sky,  and,  except,  in    a    little    sentiment 


THE   PROFILE. 


of  weakness  about  the  mouth,  has  the  air  of  a  stern,. 
strong  character,  well  able  to  bear,  as  he  has  done  un- 
flinchingly for  centuries,  the  scorching  suns  of  summer 
and  the  tempest-blasts  of  winter.  Passing  down  the 
road  a  little  way,  the  **  Old  Man  "  is  transformed  into  a 
"  toothless  old  woman  in  a  mob  cap ;  "  and  soon  after 
melts  into  thin  air,   and  is  seen   no  more.     Hawthorne 


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Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


n^ 


has  found  in  this  scene  the  theme  of  one  of  the  pleasant- 
est  of  his  "Twice-told  Tales,"  that  called  "The  Great 
Stone  Face."  It  is  within  one  hundred  rods  of  the 
Profile  House,  and  is  unquestionably,  the  most  remark- 
able natural  curiosity  in  this  co  ntry,  if  not  in  the 
world. 


SILVER  CASCADE. 

Immediately  below  the  Face  nestles  the  beautiful 
sheet  of  water  known  as  Profile  Lake,  or,  The  Old  Man's-- 
Mirror.  It  is  one  of  the  gems  of  mountain  pictures. 
The  finest  trout  live  in  its  waters.  At  the  Trout  House, 
a  short  distance  below  the  Lake,  can  be  seen  several, 
hundreds  of  these  speckled  beauties. 


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316         A //'Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 

Mount  Lafayette,  5,280  feet  high,  is  the  monarch  of 
Franconia.  Walker's  Falls  is  a  most  picturesque  moun- 
tain cascade.  The  Basin,  five  miles  south  of  the  Notch 
is  a  remarkable  spot.  Pemigewasset  River  has  here 
worn  curious  cavities  in  the  rock.  The  basin  is  45  feet 
in  diameter.     It  is  nearly  circular,  and  has  been  gradually 


THE   FLUME. 

worn  to  its  present  shape  by  the  whirling  of  rocks  round 
and  round  in  the  current.     Here,just  below  the  Basin  is 

THE   FLUME, 

one  of  the  most  famous  of  all  the  Franconia  wonders. 

Leaving  the  road,  just  below  the  Basin,  we  turn  to  the 
left  among  the  hills,  and,  after  a  tramp  of  a  mile,  reach  a 


■■■■41 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


3ir 


large  granite  ledge,  lOO  feet  high,  and  about  30  feet 
wide,  over  which  a  small  stream  makes  its  varied  way. 
Near  the  top  of  this  ledge  we  approach  the  ravine  known 
as  the  Flume.  The  rocky  walls  here  are  50  feet  in  ^ 
height,  and  not  more  than  20  feet  apart.  Through  this 
grand  fissure  runs  the  little  brook  which  we  have  just 
seen.  Except  in  seasons  of  freshets,  the  bed  of  the 
stream  is  narrow  enough  to  give  the  visitor  dry  passage 
up  the  curious  glen,  which  extends  several  hundred  feet, 
the  walls  approaching,  near  the  upper  extremity,  to 
within  ten  or  eleven  feet  of  each  other.  About  midway, 
a  tremendous  boulder,  several  tons  in  weight,  hangs 
suspended  between  the  cliffs,  where  it  has  been  caught 
li  -*ts  descent  from  the  mountain  above.  A  bridge, 
.?  igirous  for  a  timid  step,  has  been  sprung  across  the 
ravine,  near  the  top,  by  the  falling  of  a  forest  tree.  The 
Cascade,  b^lovv  the  Flume,  is  a  continuous  fall  of  more 
than  600  feet,  the  descent  being  very  gradual,  and  is 
styled  the 

SILVER  CASCADE,  OR  THE  SECOND  FLUME. 

The  Pool,  a  wonderful  excavation  in  the  solid  rock,, 
and  the  Georgiana,  or  Howard  Falls,  complete  the  lions 
of  this  region. 

If  the  tourist  desire,  he  may  continue  his  stage  ride 
to  Plymouth,  and  return  to  New  York  or  Boston,  via 
Boston,  Concord,  Montreal  and  White  Mountain  Rail- 
road and  its  connections. 

The  Fabyan,  a  first-class  house,  is  situated  at  the  centre 
of  the  mountain  railway  system.  All  the  express  trains 
with  Pullman  and  other  palace  cars  which  run  between 
Boston,  Fall  River,  Providence,  Worcester,   Springfield, 


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518        AU-Round  Route  atid  Panoramic  Guide. 


t-i  ••• 


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New  York  and  the  White  Mountains,  arrive  and  depart 
Crom  this  place.  All  trains  to  the  summit  of  Mount 
Washington  leave  here,  also. 


THE    FABYAN  HOUSE. 


LITTLETON,  N.  H. 

Few  towns  in  New  England,  if  any,  possess  greater 
natural  attractions  than  Littleton,  and  from  no  point  in 
the  mountains  can  so  great  a  variety  of  beautiful, 
romantic  and  magnificent  views  be  obtained  by  a  short 
and  pleasant  ride  or  walk.  It  is  on  the  B.  C.  &  M.  R.  R., 
and  the  cars  arrive  here  in  the  afternoon  and  evening, 
rendering  it  a  convenient  resting-place  for  the  night,  as 
all  can  just  as  well  have  a  comfortable  night's  sleep 
as  to  be  hurried  to  the  hills,  through  tickets  being 
good  for  the  next  day.  It  is  much  better  to  wait 
until  morning  before  going  to  the  mountains,  as  the 
chance  for  obtaining  good  rooms  at  the  mountain 
hotels  is  altogether  better  than  at  night.  This  is  an 
important  fact,  and  travelers  should  bear  it  in  mind. 

Having  thus  briefly  described  all  the  principal  points 


AU-Romui  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


319 


of  interest  in  and  about  the  "  Switzerland  of  America," 
we  shall  exercise  the  liberty  given  to  "  Knights  of  the 
Quill,"  and  shall  imagine  ourselves  at  once  transported 
over  the  mountain  peaks  to  our  starting-point  at 
Gorham. 

Leaving  the  White  Mountains  with  all  their  varied 
attractions,  we  once  more  take  our  seat  in  the  train  and 
proceed  to  Portland.  V^Q.  find  ourselves  whizzing  along 
through  a  magnificent  mountainous  country,  which 
probably  excels  anything  of  its  kind  in  America,  and  we 
recommend  a  good  look-out  being  kept  during  the 
journey,  for  the  scenery  cannot  fail  to  please.  On 
arrival  at  Danville  Junction  those  desirous  have  time 
to  obtain  refreshment,  and  persons  who  are  accustomed 
to  travel  know  that  it  is  just  as  well  to  take  good  care  of 
the  inner  man,  so  as  to  be  securely  fortified  against  the 
fatigue  that  always,  more  or  less,  attends  long  journeys. 

After  leaving  Danville  Junction,  nothing  of  note  is 
seen  until  a  short  distance  off  Portland,  when  we  come 
in  sight  of  the  Atlantic,  and  feel  the  sense  of  pleasure 
which  is  experienced  on  getting  near  home  after  a  long 
absence.  Arriving  at  Portland,  the  principal  city  of 
Maine,  our  tourist  will  feel  virtually  at  home  at  the 
Preble  House,  a  first-class  hotel,  and  a  great  favorite 
with  travelers.  Its  most  successful  days  were  passed 
under  the  management  of  M.  S.  Gibson  &  Son,  who  are 
again  conducting  it  with  increased  prestige  to  the  house, 
and  advantage  to  the  public.  To  those  who  have  never 
been  in  Portland,  and  can  spare  the  necessary  time,  we 
would  say,  spend  a  day  or  two  there  by  all  means.  It 
is  one  of  the  most  pleasant  and  agreeable  cities  in  the 


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320       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


«.< 


Eastern   States,  with  wide  streets   and   avenues    nicely 
kept,  well  meriting  its  title,  "  The  Forest  City." 

Portland  is  handsomely  situated  on  a  peninsula 
occupying  the  ridge^and  side  of  a  high  point  of  land,  m 
the  south-west  extremity  of  Casco  Bay,  and  on 
approaching  it  from  the  ocean,  is  seen  to  great  advantage. 
The  harbor  is  one  of  the  best  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  the 
anchorage  being  protected  on  every  side  by  land,  while 
the  water  is  deep,  and  communication  with  the  ocean 
direct  and  convenient.  It  is  defended  by  Forts  Preble,, 
Scammell,  and  Gorges,  and  dotted  over  with  lovely 
islands.  These  islands  afford  most  delightful  excursions 
and  are  amoiig  the  greatest  attractions  of  the  vicinity^ 
On  the  most  elevated  point  of  the  peninsula  is  an 
observatory,  70  feet  in  height,  commanding  a  fine  view 
of  the  city,  harbor,  and  islands  in  the  bay.  The  misty 
forms  of  the  White  Mountains,  60  miles  distant,  are 
discernible  in  clear  weather.  The  original  name  of 
Portland  was  Muchigonee.  It  was  first  settled  by  the 
whites  as  an  English  colony  in  1632,  just  two  centuries 
before  the  charter  of  the  present  city  was  granted.  On 
the  night  of  the  4th  of  July,  1866,  a  fire  occurred  which 
swept  away  nearly  one-half  of  the  whole  business 
portion  of  the  city.  The  entire  district  destroyed  by  the 
fire  has  been  since  rebuilt,  most  of  the  stores  and 
dwelling-houses  having  Mansard  roof,  which  give  a 
most  picturesque  and  charming  appearance  to  the  city. 

Portland  is  elegantly  built,  and  the  streets  beautifully 
shaded  and  embellished  with  trees,  and  so  profusely 
that,  before  the  fire,  they  were  said  to  number  no  less 
than  3,000.     Congress  Street,  previous  to  the  fire,  the 


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:ient  and   picturesque   country  on    the    North   Shore      >„ 

kic  River   St.   Lawrence.  Vta^^^     ' 

letivreeit  Qjiebec  and  Montreal. 

SLEEPING   CARS   ON   NIGHT  TRAINS. 


FIRST  CLASS   REFRESHMENT  ROOMS 

On  this  route,  where  ample  time  will  be  allowed  for  meals, 

SAOaAC^a  OnOSSD  TS&0T7aS  TO  ALL  FOZXTTS. 

CONITECTIONS.— With  Intercolonial  Railway  for  Halifax,  St. 
John  and  all  points  in  the  Maritime  Provinces. — With  St.,Law- 
rence  Steam  Navigation  Co.  for  Lower  St.  Lawrence  &  Saguenay 
Rivers. — With  Quebec  Central  for  Sherbrooke. — With  Daily 
Line  of  Stages  for  St  Leon  Springs. — With  Delaware  &  Hudson 
Canal*  Co.  to  Saratoga,  Albany  and  New  York. — With  Capadian 
Pacific  Railway  to  Ottawa  and  all  points  on  the  Upper  Ottawa, 
and  with  South  Eastern  Railway  to  New  York,  Newport,  Boston 
and  other  New  England  cities. 


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ILL  INFORMATION  APPLY  AT 

[nd  202  St.  James  Street  Montreal, 
ionls  Hotels  Quebec. 

J.  B.   LABELLE,     ' 

General  Passenger  Agent. 


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N.  £.  Fair,  1877,  Maine  Fair,  1876,  and  aU  Premiwng 

State  Fair,  1879. 


Y.    H.    LAMSOM, 

POETLAND,  ME. 


;^B&*Sole  Licensee  for  the  new  Permanent  Carbon  Photograph.'i^ 


All-Roimd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        321 


main  highway,  follows  the  ridge  of  the  peninsula  through 
its  entire  extent.  Among  the  public  buildings  of 
Portland,  the  City  Hall,  the  Post-Office  and  some  of  the 
churches  are  worthy  of  particular  attention.  The  col- 
lection of  the  Society  of  Natural  History,  organized  in 
1843,  was  totally  destroyed  by  the  fire,  but  has  since 
been  erected  again,  and  now  comprises  a  fine  cabinet, 
containing  specimens  of  the  ornithology  of  the  State, 
more  than  4,000  species  of  shells,  and  a  rich  collection 
of  mineralogical  and  geological  specimens,  and  of  fishes 
and  reptiles.  The  Library,  incorporated  in  1867,  has  a 
collection  of  10,000  volumes,  and  the  Mercantile  Library 
possesses  also  many  valuable  books.  The  Marine  Hos- 
pital, erected  in  1855,  at  the  cost  of  $80,000,  is  an 
imposing  edifice.  Among  the  most  imposing  structures 
in  the  city  are  the  extensive  buildings,  now  occupied  by 
the  Portland  Packing  Company,  preservers  of  provisions 
by  hermetically  sealing  in  tins,  the  largest  manufac- 
turers of  this  class  of  goods  in  the  world,  operating 
over  twenty  different  establishments  in  the  British 
Provinces,  and  Maine,  and  having  agencies  in  every  part 
of  the  habitable  globe.  Within  the  past  few  years 
water  has  been  introduced  into  the  city  from  Sebago 
Lake. 

In  the  vicinity  are  pleasant  drives  (notably  the  one  to 
Cape  Elizabeth),  and  the  islands  in  the  harbor  furnish 
grounds  for  delightful  water  pic-nics  and  excursions. 

In  addition,  Portland  is  one  of  the  most  healthy  cities 
in  New  England,  which,  taken  in  consideration  with  its 
beautiful  scenery,  pleasant  situation  and  prominent 
location,  and  the  near  proximity  to  beaches  and 
mountain  resorts,  makes  it  one  of  the  most  attractive 

21 


NORTH  SHOBB  BAIL 


^     4  V  ■     °  »  "■     ■  -^  ♦ — a) 


-BETWEEN- 


This    is   the   only   line   traversing   the  ancient   and    picturesque   country   on    the    I* 

of   the    majestic    River   St.    Lawrence. 

Saving  Six  Hours  time  betixreen  Q.ueboc  and  M 

PARLOR   CARS   ON    DAY   TRAINS.  SLEEPING   CARS   ON    NIGHT 


fit  MemQwmM  Bt^  M@m  Mpitags 

Are  situated  on  line  of  this  Road  between  Montreal  and 
Quebec,  near  Louiseville  station. 


THE  FAR-FAMED  SAGUENAY  RIVER 

Such  visits  can  now  be  made  at  small  expense  and  in  a  very 
short  time,  via  the  NORTH  SHORE  RAILWAY. 


During  Summer  a  "  Lightning  Express  "  leaves  Montreal 
every  morning  at  9.30,  arriving  at  Quebec  at  2.40  p.m. 

The  same  Train  leaves  Quebec  at  4.00  p.m.,  arriving  at 
Montreal  at  9.10  p.m. 

Also,  Two  Express  Trains  between  Montreal  and  Quebec 
daily,  each  way. 


FIRST  GLASS   REFRESHM 

On  this  route,  where  ample  time  will  be 

BAoaAaa  obsossd  TSEovas  t 


CONNECTIONS.— With  Intercolonial  Rj 
John  and  all  points  in  the  Maritime  Provi 
rence  Steam  Navigation  Co.  for  Lower  St.  I 
Rivers.— With  Quebec  Central  for  Sherl 
Line  of  Stages  for  St.  Leon  Springs.— Witl 
Cana^Co.  to  Saratoga,  Albany  and  New  Y 
Pacific  Railway  to  Ottawa  and  all  points  c 
and  with  South  Eastern  Railway  to  New  Y 
and  other  New  England  cities. 


FOR  TICKETS  AND  ALL  INFORMATION  APPLY  AT 

OflBcesr-lS  Place  d'Armes  and  202  St.  James  Street  Monti 

Opposite  St.  Lonls  Hotels  Quebec. 

L.  A.  SENEGAL,  j.   b.   LABI 

President  and  General  Manager.  Genera 


lIIj^WAY 


country   on    the    North    Shore 
:e. 

boc  and  Montreal. 

IRS   ON    NIGHT   TRAINS. 


?S   REFRESHMENT  ROOMS 

lere  ample  time  will  be  allowed  for  meals, 

VSSXD  TZBOTiaZ  TO  ALL  POZlirTS. 

-With  Intercolonial  Railway  for  Halifax,  St. 
in  the  Maritime  Provinces. — With  St.  Law- 
Ltion  Co.  for  Lower  St.  Lawrence  &  Saguenay 
[bee  Central  for  Sherbrooke. — With  Daily 
t.  Leon  Springs. — With  Delaware  &  Hudson 
lA,  Albany  and  New  York. — With  Canadian 
Ottawa  and  all  points  on  the  Upper  Ottawa, 
|ern  Railway  to  New  York,  Newport,  Boston 
land  cities. 


fPLY  AT 

Street,  Montreal. 
»ec. 

J.   B.   LABELLE,     * 

General  Passenger  Agent. 


N.  E.  Fair,  187 7,  Maine  Fair,  1876,  and  all  PremlamH 

State  FiOr,  1879. 


Y.    H.    LAMSOM, 


POETLAND,  ME. 


•v»«»"i 


^^•Sole  Licensee  for  the  new  Permanent  Carbon  Photograph.*^ 


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322       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

of  summer  resorts  in  the  country,  and  parties  stopping 
in  Portland  should  remember  that  the  United  States 
Hotel  is  next  to  the  largest,  and  second  to  no  hotel  in 
the  city.  This  hotel,  has  the  most  central  and  conve- 
nient situation  of  any  in  the  place,  fronting,  as  it  does, 


i  n 


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on  Federal,  Elm  and  Congress  streets,  the  principal 
streets  in  the  city.  The  building  is  large  and  striking 
in  appearance,  and  will  afford  accomodation  to  hundreds 
of  guests.     All  the  bedrooms  are  neat,  airy,  commodious, 


■.•,v 


■V.  'Vi, 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        323 

and  newly  furnished  with  furniture  of  the  best  material 
and  latest  pattern,  and  all  the  modern  conveniences  and 
improvements,  as  bath  rooms,  electric  bell  communication 
etc.,  are  supplied.  Under  the  management  of  Mr.  Will. 
H.  McDonald,  the  present  proprietor,  who  is  so  favorably 
known  to  the  public  during  a  highly  successful  career 
spent  in  catering  for  them,  the  house  has  attained  a 
degree  of  success,  unprecedented  in  its  history,  and  has 
acquired  a  metropolitan  fame  with  travellers.  For  a 
first-class  cuisine,  courtesy,  and  attention  we  can  heartily 
recommend  the  "  United  States,"  and  are  convinced 
that  one  days*  sojourning  with  Mr.  McDonald  will  have 
the  effect  of  ever  afterwards  attracting  to  the  Hotel  those 
who  will  for  the  first  time  have  enjoyed  the  careful  super- 
vision of  Mr.  McDonald.  -  ;     ;    i      <    !  i! 


'^  u 


THE  PORTLAND  STEAM  PACKET  CO. 

is  an  old  and  favorite  line  between  Boston  and  Portland, 
organized  in  1847,  and  has  maintained  its  trips  with  per- 
fect regularity.  Leaving  each  port  at  7  o'clock  in  the 
evening  (except  Sundays),  passengers  are  afforded  a 
delightful  view  of  the  splendid  harbors  and  approaches, 
and  obtain  views  of  the  cities  which  cannot  otherwise 
be  enjoyed,  and  the  scenery  of  the  entire  trip  is  among 
the  finest  on  the  eastern  coast.  The  passenger  accom- 
modations on  these  steamers  are  first-class  in  every 
respect, — very  large,  roomy  and  comfortable,  remarkable 
for  regularity,  officered  by  skillful  and  capable  men,  long 
in  the  business,  who  are  always  found  gentlemanly  and 
courteous,  "  a  very  important  feature,"  and  as  a  line  can 
present  a  record  surpassed  by  none,  from  the  fact  that 
during    the   Company's   existence   several   millions   of 


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324       AlURound  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 

passengers  have  been  carried  without  loss  or  injury  to 
a  single  person.  It  is  now  the  most  popular  route 
between  Portland  and  Boston. 

It  has  been  affirmed  by  travellers  that  among  the 
finest  scenery  in  the  world  is  that  which  is  visible  from 
the  Observatory  in  Portland.  A  most  enchanting  pros- 
pect is  presented  by  sea  and  land,  of  which  the  city 
forms  the  central  object,  and,  the  White  Mountains,  with 
the  broad  Atlantic,  mark  the  boundaries  east  and  west. 
All  these  combine  to  make  Portland  a  place  worthy  of 
the  tourist's  notice. 

"  The  beautiful  town  that  is  seated  by  the  le  a." 

Cape  Elizabeth  is  a  very  favorite  resort ;  being  but  a 
few  miles  out  of  the  city,  an  afternoon  cannot  be  better 
passed  than  by  taking  a  drive  out  there.  Excursions 
can  also  be  made  to  the  "  Ocean  House  "  and  "  Orchard 
Beach,"  both  of  which  are  exceedingly  pleasant.  Then 
there  are  the  365  islands,  including  "  Cushing's,"  most  of 
which  can  be  reached  by  ferry  boat  or  yacht,  and  where 
there  are  always  to  be  found  a  great  many  visitors  seek- 
ing health  and  relaxation  from  business.  At  several  of 
these  islands  good  hotels  are  to  be  found  ;  notably,  at 
the  Bay  View  House,  Peak's  Island. 

PORTLAND  AND  OGDENSBURG  RAILROAD. 

This  new  road  offers  superior  attractions  to  pleasure- 
seekers,  and  no  one  visiting  Portland  or  White  Moun- 
tains should  fail  to  make  a  trip  to  some  of  its  favorite 
resorts.  The  road  is  now  completed  through  the  famous 
"  White  Mountain,  or  Crawford  Notch,"  and  running  by 
the  Crawford  and  Fabyan  Houses,  ninety  miles  from 
Portland,  it  furnishes  a  most  attractive  and  expeditious 


•  ♦, ,- 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       325 

route  to  those  poiiicS  and  the  summit  of  Mount  Wash- 
ington. A  trip  over  the  "  Portland  and  Ogdensburg  " 
comprises  in  itself  one  of  the  grandest  and  most  exciting 
features  of  the  entire  White  Mountain  tour — the  ride 
through  the  "Notch."  The  road  is  built  upon  the 
mountain  side,  some  hundreds  of  feet  above  the  valley 
and  highway,  and  the  uninterrupted  view  from  the  cars 
reveals  many  interesting  and  extensive  scenes,  unknown 
to  travellers  by  the  old  and  now  discontinued  stage 
route — at  the  same  time  retaining  all  the  attractions  of 
that  delightful  ride  through  this  remarkable  pass.  But 
little  more  than  three  hours  is  necessary  to  effect  the 
transition  from  the  sea-coast  to  the  very  heart  of  the 
mountains,  and  a  day  can  be  filled  with  constant  pleasure 
by  a  jaunt  from  Portland  to 

NORTH  CONWAY,  CRAWFORD'S  OR  FABYAN'S. 

A  few  hours  spent  in  visiting  the  natural  attractions 
of  these  resorts,  and  we  return  to  Portland  in  the 
evening.  The  route  of  the  Portland  and  Ogdensburg 
Railroad  lies  up  the  lovely  valleys  of  the  Passumpscot 
and  Saco  Rivers,  skirts  for  three  miles  the  shores  of 
Sebago  Lake  and  passes  through  the  beautiful  towns  of 
Hiram,  Brownfield,  Fryeburg,  and  Conway,  with  their 
broad  intervals  flanked  by  lofty  mountains  and  jewelled 
with  the  gleaming  waters  of  winding  stream  and  placid 
lake.  Landscapes  of  woodland,  meadow  and  cultivated 
tracts  dotted  with  pleasant  villages  ;  rivers  with  their 
changing  moods  of  gentle  currents,  hurrying  rapids  and 
leaping  waterfalls  ;  lakes  and  ponds  of  varying  form  and 
size,  mirroring  in  their  depths  the  beauties  of  earth  and 
sky,  and  mountains  of  gradually  increasing  height  from 


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326       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

the  low  eminence,  crowned,  perhaps  with  thrifty  farms 
or  forest  growth,  to  bald  and  rugged  peaks  towering 
above  the  clouds,  fill  the  view  from  the  beginning  to  the 
end  of  the  journey.  You  can  breakfast  in  Portland, 
niake  the  trip  to  the  mountains  without  fatigue,  dining 
at  the  famous  mountain  hotels,  and  return  to  Portland 
early  same  evening,  or  you  can  make  the  excursion 
according  to  the  time  at  your  disposal,  of  longer 
duration  by  stopping  over  at  the  many  points  of  interest 
en  routCj  and  resuming  the  journey  at  pleasure,  as  two 
or  more  through  trains  are  run  daily  during  the  summer 
season. 

It  may  be  added  that  this  route  from  Portland,  up  the 
Saco  Valley  through  Hiram,  Fryebui^and  Conway,  and 
so  on  to  the  mountain  resorts,  was  a  favorite  in  the  early 
days  of  White  Mountain  travel,  before  the  swift  and 
commodious  railroads  from  other  directions  had 
supplanted  the  stage  coach.  It  has  been  pronounced  the 
finest  of  all  the  approaches  to  the  mountains,  and  now 
that  the  trip  this  way  can  also  be  accomplished  behind 
the  "  Iron  Horse,"  we  may  expect  the  route  to  regain 
its  old-time  popularity,  multiplied  by  the  largely 
increasing  tide  of  visitors  to  the  glorious  "  White  Hills." 


'■'4' 


PORTLAND  TO    HARRISON,   AND    RETURN  VIA  SEBAGO. 

Sebago  Lake,  situated  seventeen  miles  from  Portland, 
forms  part  of  a  navigable  water  extending  from  the 
Lake  Station  on  the  P.  &  O.  R.  R.,  to  Harrison,  thirty- 
four  miles  distant,  and  comprising  the  Lake,  Songo 
River  and  Long  Pond,  the  two  larger  bodies  being 
connected  by  the  Songo.  The  Lake  is  fourteen  miles 
long  by  eleven  wide,  in  widest  part,  and  its  waters  are 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        327 

bounded  by  shores  of  varied  form  and  attractiveness, 
with  fine  views  of  the  distant  mountains.  An  hour's 
sail  brings  us  to  the  mouth  of  the  Songo,  whose  channel 
extends  in  serpentine  windings  six  miles  to  overcome 
the  mile  and  a  half  interval,  "as  the  crow  flies," 
separating  Sebago  from  Long  Pond.  The  sail  up  this 
beautiful  stream  is  one  of  novel  and  exciting  interest, 
its  narrow  and  tortuous  course  between  low  banks 
thickly  wooded  to  the  water's  edge,  or  relieved  here 
and  there  by  small  clearings  and  meadow  lands  ;  the 
lock  at  the  head  of  the  river  through  which  the  level 
of  the  upper  waters  is  gained,  and  the  spirit  of  quiet 
restfulness  and  retirement  pervading  all,  being  long 
remembered  by  those  fortunate  enough  to  enjoy  the 
pleasures  of  this  remarkable  excursion.  Passing  out 
of  the  river  we  enter  Long  Pond,  which,  including  its 
subdivisions,  known  as  the  "  Bay  of  Naples,"  and 
Chute's  River,  is  fourteen  miles  long,  and  aversiges  in 
width  about  one  and  one  half  miles.  The  character 
of  its  scenery  differs  from  the  surroundings  of  Sebago, 
— the  shores  being  more  irregular  in  outline,  and  of 
higher  elevation  at  many  points.  The  land  adjoining 
the  Pond  is  dotted  with  many  farms  and  villages — 
Naples,  Bridgton,  North  Bridgton  and  Harriston  being 
places  of  considerable  business,  and  noted  as  pleasant 
summer  resorts.  Two  steamers  ply  in  summer  over 
these  waters,  making  the  round  trip,  daily,  between 
Sebago  Lake  and  Harrison,  and  connecting  at  the  Lake 
Station  with  trains  of  the  Portland  and  Ogdensburg 
Railroad.  Parties  can  leave  Portland  in  the  morning, 
make  the  trip  to  Harrison  and  back,  thus  enjoying  a 
fine  inland  water  excursion  of  sixty-eight  miles,  and,  on 


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328       u'Ul'Rinmd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 

return  to  the  lake,  take  cars  either  for  Portland  or 
North  Conway  and  the  mountains,  arriving  at  destina- 
tion early  same  evening. 

Many  other  pcmts  of  attraction  arc  found  in  a  trip 
over  the  Portland  and  Ogdensburg,  but  our  space  will 
not  admit  of  their  enumeration.  We  can  ciity  advise 
all  who  have  opportunity  to  become  personally  familiar 
with,  at  least,  some  of  the  features  of  this  inviting 
pleasure  route. 

NORTH  CONWAY, 

on  thw  line  of  the  Portland  and  Ogdensburg  Railroad,  a 
favorite  resort  much  frequented  by  artists  and  tourists, 
lies  just  at  the  portal  to  the  White  Mountains,  whose 
snow-capped  peaks  form  the  back-ground  for  the  most 
delightful  views.  The  village  lies  at  the  foot  of  the 
grand  old  Kearsage  Mountain.  The  principal  hotel  is 
the  Kearsage  House,  Messrs.  Thompson  &  Sons,  pro- 
prietors. This  house  has  been  entirely  reconstructed 
recently,  and  nov/  embraces  1 50  rooms  for  guests.  A 
fine  plank  walk  is  laid  from  the  station  to  the  hotel. 
From  this  point  the  whole  range  of  the  White  Mountains 
is  easily  accessible. 

LAKESEBAGO, 

meaning"  in  Indian  "stretch  of  water,"  is  in  some  places 
four  hundred  feet  deep,  and  is  bounded  by  the  towns  of 
Stand ish,  Raymond,  Casco,  Naples  and  Sebago.  The 
Lake  is  traversed  by  two  new  and  elegant  side-wheel 
steamers,  the  "  Sebago "  and  the  "  Mt.  Pleasant,"  of 
similar  size  and  design.  Each  is  about  87  ft.  long  by 
24  ft  beam,  and  contains  a  promenade  deck  72  ft  long. 


I)  r-  ■« 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide*       329 

Steaming  up  the  Lake  at  the  rate  of  fourteen  knots  an 
houj,  we  pass  on  our  right,  Indian  Island,  with  an  area 
of  seventy-five  acres ;  little  One  Tree  Island,  with  its 
scraggy  old  stub  surmounted  with  an  eagle's  nest ;  and 
soon  approach,  on  our  left,  Frye's  Island,  with  its 
thousand  acres  of  dense  forest.  Sailing  up  its  eastern 
shore,  we  enter  the  "  Notch,"  a  narrow  neck  of  water 
between  the  island  and  Raymond  Cape,  five  miles  from 
the  Lake  station.  At  this  point  the  island,  with  its 
rocky  beach,  green  slope,  primitive  cottages,  and  wooded 
back-ground,  forms  a  pleasant  picture,  often  enlivened 
with  the  tents  of  camping- out  sportsmen.  Below,  on  our 
right  are  the  celebrated  "  Images."  This  curious  mass 
of  Rock  rises  perpendicularly  from  the  water  nearly  70 
feet,  and  then  slopes,  in  jagged,  fanciful  shapes,  to  a 
still  further  height  of  some  30  feet.  The  water  at  the 
foot  of  the  precipice  is  85  feet  deep.  Here,  too,  is  the 
"  Cave,"  which  possesses  a  peculiar  interest,  from  the 
fact  that  it  was  a  favorite  boyhood  haunt  of  Nathaniel 
Hawthorne.  It  is  a  square  aperture,  four  feet  by  six,  in 
the  solid  Rock,  into  which  the  great  novelist  was  wont 
to  sail  in  his  tiny  fishing  boat,  which  he  could  do  to  a 
distance  of  25  feet,  and  then  clamber  through  a  short 
passage  to  the  outer  world. 

On — still  on — and  we  are  now  upon  the  broadest  part 
of  the  Lake.  Flocks  of  white  sea-gulls  fly  over  our 
heads,  while  an  occasional  loon  or  a  bevy  of  ducks  start 
up  in  alarm  at  our  approach,  followed  by  the  shots  of 
sportsmen  abroad.  To  the  north-east.  Rattlesnake 
Mountain  is  seen,  and  in  the  same  direction,  near  the 
lake,  is  seen  the  early  home  of  Hawthorne,  The  scenery 
on  the  west  is  wilder  and  more  rugged.      Saddleback 


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330      Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 

Mountain,  in  Baldwin,  is  plainly  visible,  from  which  the 
eye  roams  north-east,  beyond  the  "  Great  Bay,"  over  the 
Sebago  hills,  and  farms  and  forests.  Still  farther  north 
is  Peake  Mountain,  beyond  which  the  view  extends 
northward  to  Mount  Kearsage,  so  blue  and  cold  in  the 
hazy  distance,  while  the  White  Mountains  may  be 
distinctly  seen  on  the  western  horizon. 

Passing  up  the  Songo  and  Long  Lake  we  reach 
Harrison  village,  the  terminus  of  the  steamer  route.  A 
short  ride  by  coach,  or  private  conveyance,  brings  us  to 
the  foot  of 

MOUNT  PLEASANT. 


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The  ascent  to  this  is  steep,  especially  as  we  near  the 
summit,  which  is  2,018  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
Reaching  this,  our  toils  and  restrained  curiosity  are  amply 
compensated  by  the  magnificent  view. 

A  horizon  of  three  hundred  miles  bounds  the  prospect ! 
— a  prospect  in  many  respects  the  finest  in  New  England. 
Some  fifty  lakes  and  ponds  may  be  distinctly  seen  from 
the  summit  by  the  naked  eye,  and  the  view  far  surpasses 
that  offered  from  Mt  Washington,  being  unobstructed 
by  clouds  and  neighboring  mountains,  and  rich  in  all  the 
varied  characteristics  of  the  beautiful,  the  sublime,  the 
picturesque. 

From  Portland,  two  or  three  different  routes  can  be 
chosen,  according  to  the  time  and  inclination  of  the 
traveler.  If  desiring  to  go  to  New  York  direct,  and 
preferring  a  sea  passage,  the  steamers  of  the  Maine 
Steamship  Co.  ply  regularly,  and  in  fine  weather  this  will 
be  found  ai)  exceedingly  pleasant  trip.  The  fine 
steamers,  Eleanora  and  Franconia,  form  a  line  leaving 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       331 

Franklin  wharf,  Portland  every  Monday  and  Tuesday, 
at  6.00  p.m.,  arriving  at  an  early  hour  on  Wednesday 
and  Saturday  mornings  in  New  York  ,  they  are  fitted 
up  with  fine  accommodation  for  passengers ;  passage, 
including  state-room,  $5,  meals  extra.  We  shall,  how- 
ever presume  that  the  majority  travelling  intend  to  go 
via  Boston,  and,  if  possible,  rest  a  while  in  that  fine  city, 
rather  than  hurry  on  at  railroad  speed,  which  cannot  but 
prove  tiresome.  Therefore  to  such  there  is  the  choice  of 
land  or  water  carriage.  The  Portland  Steam  Packet 
steamers,  elegantly  furnished,  of  thorough  sea-going 
qualities,  leave  Portland  every  evening  except  Sunday  for 
Boston,  the  passage  occupying  about  ten  hours ;  by  adopt- 
ing this  mode  of  conveyance,  passengers  are  landed  after 
a  complete  night's  rest,  free  from  the  weariness  attending 
a  journey  by  railway.  Those  preferring  the  road  can 
take  the  train  of  the  Eastern  Railroad,  A  pleasant  ride 
of  56  miles,  and  we  arrive  at  the  fine  city  of 

PORTSMOUTH, 

New  Hampshire,  It  is  one  of  the  oldest,  most  historic 
and  attractive  spots  on  the  coast  of  New  England. 
Within  and  around  it  are  almost  innumerable  places  and 
objects  of  interest  to  the  tourist.  It  is  situated  on  the 
westerly  bank  of  the  Piscataqua  River,  which  separates 
tho  States  of  New  Hampshire  and  Maine,  It  was  the 
residence  of  the  Royal  Governors  in  Colonial  days,  and 
was  the  first  soil  of  New  Hampshire  trod  by  the  English, 
One  of  the  interesting  features  of  the  city  is  the 
"  Governor  Wentworth  mansion,"  which  was  erected  by 
him  in  175a  The  United  States  navy-yard  is  located 
here.     Within  a  radius  of  ten  miles  there  are  many 


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332        All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


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charming  places  of  resort  accessible,  both  by  land  and 
water.  The  ocean  view  is  extensive  and  very  fine.  The 
The  "  Isle  of  Shoals "  is  a  group  of  picturesque  isles : 
with  their  quaint  houses  and  numerous  fleet  of  boats, 
they  are  points  of  great  attraction  during  the  summer 
season,  and  are  seven  miles  distant  from  Portsmouth, 
with  steamers  plying  daily.  The  principal  Hotel  in 
Portsmouth  is  the  "  Rockingham  House,"  Mr.  Frank  W. 
Hilton,  proprietor.  It  is  built  on  the  site  of  the  former 
residence  of  Governor  Langdon,  and  is  a  great  favorite 
with  the  travelling  public.  Diverging  from  our  direct 
route  to  Boston,  we  take  the  train  of  the  Concord  and 
Portsmouth  Road,  and  a  ride  of  fifty-nine  miles  brings 
us  to  the  capital  of  the  State  of  New  Hampshire. 

CONCORD, 

which  contains  many  buildings  of  interest,  built  of  the 
celebrated  Concord  granite.  One  of  the  principal  beau- 
ties of  Concord,  which  is  situated  on  the  west  bank  of 
the  Merrimac  River,  is  the  abundance  of  trees  shading  its 
regularly  laid  out  streets.  It  is  a  city  of  extensive  trade, 
celebrated  for  its  carri.ige  manufactories  and  the  superior 
quality  and  extent  of  its  granite  quarries.  Returning  to 
Portsmouth  we  proceed  on  our  journey,  and  in  due  time 
arrive  at  Boston. 

PORTLAND  TO  BOSTON,  BY  SEA. 

jEpurpose  giving  a  brief  notice  of  the  many  points 
of  interest  along  the  coast  between  Portland 
^P??     and    Boston,   travelling   via   Portland   Steam- 
packet  Co.     The  first  important  place  is        ■    r 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        333 

CUSHING'S    ISLAND, 

three  miles  from  the  city,  and  containing  about  3CX)  acres. 
It  commands  a  magnificent  ocean  view,  with  fine  beaches 
for  bathing.     Ten  miles  from  Portland  is 

OLD   ORCHARD    BEACH. 

The  beach  is  9  miles  long,  Lard  and  smooth.  "  More 
carriages  can  drive  abreast  on  this  noble  beach,  than 
could  have  been  accommodated  on  the  wide  walls  of 
Babylon."  It  is  much  visited,  and  is  annually  increasing 
in  attractiveness  ;  we  can  recommend  the  Montreal 
House  here,  as  being  quiet  and  comfortable,  and  Mrs. 
Blanchard,  the  proprietess  as  a  very  attentive  hostess. 
Three  miles  further  and  we  reach 

SACO, 

ninety-five  miles  from  Boston.  It  is  a  pleasant  summer 
resort  with  a  fine  beach,  and  affording  excellent  bathing 
and  fishing.  Saco  Pool,  about  five  miles  distant,  is  a 
nature- wrought  basin  in  the  rock,  connected  with  the  sea 
by  a  narrow  passage  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  length. 
It  is  emptied  and  filled  by  each  changing  tide.  Another 
10  miles  brings  us  to 

KENNEBUNK, 

principally  noted  for  its  ship  building,  carried  on  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Kennebunk  River. 

WELLS, 

with  its  six  miles  of  beautiful  beach  and  its  great  induce- 
ments to  sportsmen,  lies  five  miles  beyond.  This  town  is 
rapidly  increasing  in  population  and  trade. 


,V-i 


334        All- Round  Route  and  Panoran-rc  Guide, 


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Next  is 

BALL   HEAD   CLIFF, 

rising  abruptly  from  the  sea  to  a  height  of  about  one 
hundred  feet.  The  highest  point  of  the  cliflf  is  called  the 
«  Pulpit" 

YORK    BEACH, 

about  14  miles  from  Wells,  is  one  of  the  finest  beaches  on 

the  coast.     At  low  tide  it  is  over   500  feet  in  width. 

"  The  drive  along  it  is  pleasant,  the  horses'  hoofs  striking 

on  the  hard  sand,  making  a  fine  accompaniment  to  the 

dashing  of  the  waves,  which,  in  fine  weather,  come  in  with 

a  soft  lulling  sound,  and  in  storms,  with  a  noise  like 

mighty  thunder." 

We  now  approach  a  low-lying  group  of  islands,  known 

as  the 

ISLE   OF   SHOALS, 

which  derive  their  name  from  the  "  shoaling  of  fish  in 
their  vicinity  in  the  proper  season."  These  islands  are 
very  bleak  and  desolate  in  appearance,  being  composed 
of  huge  masses  of  granite  bleached  by  exposure  to  the 
sun,  and  worn  by  the  action  of  the  waves.  They  were 
visited  in  16 14,  by  the  celebrated  Capt.  John  Smith,  of 
"  Pocahontas  fame."  The  shoals  at  low  water  consist  of 
6  islands,  increased  to  1 8  when  at  high  water.  Appledore, 
formerly  known  as  Hog  Island,  is  the  largest.  It  is  75 
feet  high  at  its  greatest  elevation,  and  contains  about  400 
acres.  On  this  a  hotel  has  been  erected.  These  islands 
form  a  nice  summer  resort,  and  one  usually  well  patron- 
ized. Proceeding  on  our  trip,  we  pass  Fust's  Point,  and 
also  Portsmouth.  ^     , 

After  Portsmouth  we  pass  Shaw's  Point,  so  named  after 


,r     .1 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        335 
Hon.  E.  Shaw,  of  Manchester,  N.  H.,  thence  onward  to 

RYE   HEACH, 

a  very  popular  resort,  at  which  are  some  of  the  finest 
hotels  at  any  of  the  New  Hampshire  beaches.  The  views 
in  this  neighborhood  are  extensive  and  very  fine. 

Little  Boar's  Head,  a  promontory,  40  feet  high  and 
projecting  into  the  ocean,  separates  Rye  Beach  from 

HAMPTON    BEACH, 

a  fine  hard  beach,  nearly  3  miles  in  extent,  affording  ex- 
cellent drives,  in  which,  at  low  tide,  18  or  20  teams  may 
drive  side  by  side.  Here  are  also  the  best  facilities  for 
bathing  and  promenades.  The  drives  in  the  vicinity  are 
unsurpassed,  and  boating  parties  are  the  order  of  each 
day.  The  town  of  Hampton  was  first  settled  in  1638  by 
English  emigrants.  This  town  has  been  remarkable  for 
its  general  health,  and  the  long  life  of  its  inhabitants. 
Next  in  order  is 

SALISBURY,    MASS., 

which  is  on  the  Merrimac  River.  At  this  point,  visitors 
are  directed  to  the  birthplace  of  the  mother  of  Daniel 
Webster,  also  the  ancient  house  where  Caleb  Gushing 
was  born.  Salisbury  Beach  is  6  miles  long,  but  not  so 
firm  as  Rye  and  Hampton  Beaches. 

SEABROOK,^N.  H.,       ^^ 

is  noted  as  a  point  where  whale-boat  building  was  largely 
carried  on,  and  is  still  an  important  place  of  industry. 

;,.  NEWBURYPORT,   MASS., 

is  located  on  the  Merrimac  River,  and  is  considered  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  cities  in  New  England.     It  possesses 


ill 


k:J 


,  «: 


•   \ 


336        All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

many  singular  attractions.  One  point  of  special  interest 
is  the  old  church,  the  scene  of  Whitefield's  labors,  his 
tomb,  his  monument,  and  other  relics.  Oak  Hill  Cemetery 
is  also  worthy  of  a  visit  The  population  is  about  14,000, 
or  15,000. 

Beverly,  Mass.,  is  a  town  of  some  7,000  inhabitants.  It  is 
18  miles  from  Boston,  and  is  connected  by  a  bridge  with 

SALEM, 

a  town  which,  for  historic  interest,  is  not  surpassed. 
From  this  town  have  gone  forth  many  men  whose  names 
have  become  distinguished  in  the  various  walks  of  life. 
Its  scientific  and  literary  institutions  are  very  important 
Next  to  Plymouth,  Salem  is  the  oldest  town  in  New 
England,  having  been  first  settled  in  1626.  The  rides  in 
the  vicinity  are  pleasant,  and  its  proximity  to  the  popular 
watering-places  makes  it  a  point  of  much  attraction, 

SWAMPSCOTT 

is  the  favorite  resort  of  the  wealth  and  fashion  of  Boston, 
to  which  city  it  is  as  Long  Branch  is  to  New  York.  The 
bathing  is  excellent,  but  the  beaches  are  not  so  extensive 
as  at  other  points.  ,  ,,  -  t^ 

LYNN,    r.  .         ;■•«.-.       ","-■;.; 

the  headquarters  of  the  shoe  trade,  is  11  miles  from 
Boston.  It  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  N.  E.  shore  of 
Massachusetts  Bay.  Dungeon  Rock  is  a  spot  frequently 
visited,  and  High  Rock,  near  the  centre  of  the  city, 
affords  a  fine  point  of  view.  Leaving  this,  a  short  ride 
brings  us  to  the  end  of  our  journey,  and  we  land  at  the 
wharves  of  the  beautiful  city  of  Boston.      ..  ^j  .    . ..  , 


i     R 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,      337 


\  "A 


PORTLAND     TO     NEW    YORK     DIRECT,    via 
RAIL  AND  LONG  ISLAND  SOUND. 

HIS  route  ofifers  special  advantages  to  tourists,  pass-        j 
ing  as  it  does  through  some  of  the  finest  cities  and 
towns  in  the  Eastern  States,  and  also  affording  an         | 
opportunity  of  enjoying  a  sail  along  the  beautiful  Long 
Island  Sound. 

Taking  the  Portland  and  Rochester  road,  we  pass  on 
to  Nashua,  thence  over  the  Worcester  and  Nashua  Rail-        - 
road  to  Worcester,  there  connecting  with  the  Norwich 
and  Worcester  Road  to  Norwich,  and  onward  to  New         jj 
London,  via  New  London  and  Northern  Railroad.     At        |! 
this  point  connection  is  made  with  the  Norwich  Line  of 
Steamers  for  New  York     Those  of  our  tourists  who  de- 
cide upon  this  route  can  leave  Portland  daily  (Sundays 
excepted)  in  the  afternoon,  by  the  Steamboat  Express  with 
Drawing-room  car  attached,  and  will  arrive  at  New  York 
early  next  morning.  This  trip  is  made  without  any  change 
of  cars  between  Portland  and  New  London. 

This  train,  also  connecting  at  Putnam  with  the  New 
York  and  Philadelphia  Express  train,  reaches  Philadelphia 
also  early  next  a.  m.,  and  Washington  about  noon. 

BOSTON 

JS  one  of  the  most  interesting  of  American  cities,  not 
only  on  account  of  its  thrilling  traditionary  and  his- 
torical associations,  but  for  its  public  enterprise,  and 
its  high  social  culture ;  for  its  educational  and  literary 
facilities  ;  for  its  numerous  benevolent  establishments ; 
for  its  elegant  public  and  private  architecture,  and  for  the 
surpassing  natural  beauty  of  its  suburban  landscapes. 
22 


A.i. 

'■: ''  '  ■ 


■'«, 


■.'■"■■■  "■-','' 


'  •*, 


I 


338       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide ^ 

The  old  city  is  built  upon  a  peninsula  of  some  700  acres, 
very  uneven  in  surface,  and  rising  at  three  different  points 
into  an  eminence,  one  of  which  is  138  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  The  Indian  name  of  this  peninsula  was 
Shawmut,  meaning  "  Living  Fountain."  It  was  called 
by  the  earlier  inhabitants  Trimount  or  Tramount,  which 
latter  name  it  still  retains  in  one  of  its  principal  streets. 
The  name  of  Boston  was  bestowed  on  it  in  honor  of  the 
Rev.  John  Cotton,  who  came  hither  from  Boston,  in 
England.  The  census  of  1880  gives  it  a  population  of 
364,938.      ^■ 

Boston  Harbor  is  large,  and  contains  numerous  islands, 
and  in  depth  of  water  and  availability  is  surpassed  by 
none  on  the  coast. 

At  East  Boston  is  the  deepest  water  of  the  harbor,  and 
here  the  ocean  steamers  chiefly  lie.  East  Boston  is  con- 
nected by  two  ferries  with  the  city  proper. 
■  The  principal  sights  in  and  around  Boston  are  Bunker 
Hill  Monument,  Faneuil  Hall,  the  Common,  the  Public 
Garden,  the  State  House,  the  Public  Library,  Old  South 
Church,  famous  for  its  historical  associations,  Athenaeum. 
Natural  History  Buildings,  Institute  of  Technology, 
Mount  Auburn,  and  Harvard  University  Buildings,  the 
Great  Organ,  the  City  Hospital,  the  City  Hall,  and  other 
public  buildings. 

The  streets  in  the  other  portions  of  the  city  are  irregu- 
lar and  generally  narrow.  Washington  and  Tremont 
streets  are  the  principal  thoroughfares.  The  suburban 
towns  and  villages  of  Cambri<lge,  Charlestown,  Chelsea 
and  Brookline,  are  chiefly  occupied  as  the  residences  of 
Boston  merchants.  On  the  9th  of  November,  1872,  a 
terrible  conflagration  swept  away  the  principal  business 


#*    v.,'^- 


00  acres, 
nt  points 
the  level 
sula  v/as 
is  called 
it,  which 
l1  streets, 
or  of  the 
oston,  in 
ilation  of 

IS  islands, 
assed  by 

irbor,  and 
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e  Bunker 
le  Public 
lid  South 
;henseum, 
chnology. 
lings,  the 
and  other 

re  irregu- 
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dences  of 
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340        All-Romid  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

portion  of  Boston.  The  fire  broke  out  on  Saturday- 
evening,  and  the  flames  gained  fatal  headway  before  the 
engines  arrived  on  the  ground.  Until  nightfall  of 
Sunday,  the  conflagration  raged  with  unabated  fury,  and, 
when  it  was  finally  brought  under  control,  it  was  found 
that  the  magnificent  structures  and  accumulated  wealth 


OLD  SOUTH  CHURCH. 


embraced  in  an  area  of  60  acres,  in  the  most  admired 
and  most  valuable  section  of  the  city,  had  been  burned 
to  the  ground.  Over  900  buildings — occupied  by  2,cxx) 
firms — were  consumed,  and  the  losses  reached  the 
enormous  aggregate  of  between  $75,000,000  and 
$80,000,000.     There  was  no  loss  of  life,  as  in  the  Chicago 


\: 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.       341 

fire,  and,  few  dwellings  being  burned,  there  was  little  of 
that  actual  suffering  which  usually  follows  such  catas- 
trophes. 

To  the  tourist  the  first  matter  of  importance  is  to 
secure  a  good  hotel.  If  he  wish  to  be  comfortably  quar- 
tered during  his  sojourn  here,  be  it  for  a  brief  period,  he 
can  make  his  way  to  the  "  American  House,"  Hanover 
street,  Lewis  Rice  &  Son,  proprietors,  where  every 
comfort  and  luxury  is  to  be  met  with.  The  Revere 
House  on  Bowdoin  Square,  and  the  United  States  Hotel, 
Beach  and  Lincoln  Streets,  are  houses  of  well-established 
reputation,  and  first-class  in  every  respect. 

In  Boston  the  places  of  amusement  are  more  numerous, 
in  proportion  to  the  population,  than  in  most  cities.  1  it 
the  Music  Hall  m.ay  be  seen  the  second  largest  organ  in 
the  world,  erected  at  a  cost  of  $80,000. 

There  are  nearly  1 50  churches,  the  most  interesting  to 
tourists  being  King's  Chapel  (Unitarian),  founded  in  1686. 
The  present  structure,  however,  was  erected  in  1 7  50. 

OLD  SOUTH  CHURCH 

is  an  object  of  much  interest.     It  was  erected  in  1730,  and 

was  used  as  a  place  of  meeting  by  the  heroes  of  'y6,  and 

was  subsequently  converted  into  a  riding  school  by  the 

British  troops.     It  barely  escaped  the  flames  during  the 

fire  of  1872. 

BOSTON  COMMON         • 

is  a  large  and  charming  public  ground  in  a  central  portion 
of  the  city  proper.  It  contains  nearly  50  acres,  of  every 
variety  of  surface,  with  inviting  walks,  grassy  lawns,  and 
grand  old  trees.  It  is  the  pride  of  the  city,  and  is  much 
admired  by  strangers.  :        • 


I, 

I'i 


t, 


1 

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11.* '. 

■*(■ 


^^^■^r/ 


1^ 


342         All-Roufid  Route  am  Panoramic  Guide. 

A  pond  and  fountain,  the  site  of  the  ancient  "  Frog 
Pond,"  occupy  a  central  point  in  the  grounds.  On  the 
upper  corner,  the  massive,  dome-surmounted  walls  of  the 
State  Capitol  are  seen  to  great  advantage.     The 

■■■'■■'  -•'''•:■       '  '    OLD  ELM,  "  -•'■        ^'  '  ''    '''■■' 

near  the  pond,  was  an  object  of  much  interest,  as  one  of 
the  oldest  and  largest  trees  in  the  country.     It  is  believed 


Oi  (.    ELM. 


to  have  existed  before  the  settlement  of  the  city,  having 
attained  its  full  growth  in  1722.  It  was  nearly  destroyed 
by  a  storm  in  1832.  In  1854  it  was  protected  by  an 
iron  fence,  but,  in  1866,  it  at  last  succumbed  to  the 
storms  of  winter.  The  Brewer  Fountain  is  also  one  of 
the  attractions  of  the  grounds,  the  workmanship  being 


k. 


^^.,.-^- 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       343 


'  ^. 


of  great  merit ;    it  was  a  gift  to  the  city  by  the   late 
Gardner  Brewer,  and  was  awarded  a  gold  medal  at  the 
Paris  Exhibition  of  1855. 
Adjoining  the   Common,   is   the    Public    Garden,   a 


c: 
u 

r" 

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o 

r 

o 
w 


charming  place  of  resort  This  embraces  24  acres,  and 
is  ornamented  with  winding  walks,  shrubbery,  lawns, 
ponds,  and  parterres  of  flowers.  Power's  statue  of 
Edward    Everett^   the   admirable   equestrian    statue   of 


fj'!  '■  > 


>   .  •■ 


fi*  ■ 


344       Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

Washington^  by  Thomas  Ball,  and  other  pieces  of 
statuary,  and  a  conservatory,  .  , 

In  the  city  proper  there  are  quite  a  number  of  small 
parks.  At  the  South  End  are  Franklin  Square,  Black- 
stone  Square,  each  having  a  fountain,  shade-trees,  with 
an  area  of  a  little  more  than  two  acres  ;  Worcester 
Square  and  Chester  Square,  containing  about  one  and  a 
half  acres,  are  modest  parks,  with  roadway  on  each  side 
lined  with  fine  residences.  In  South  Boston  there  are 
two  parks  ;  one  on  Telegraph  Hill  is  k*^  i  as  Thomas 
Park,  and  the  other  as  Independence  quare,  attractive 
on  account  of  the  superb  views  they  command  of 
Boston  and  the  harbor.  The  largest  squares  in  East 
Boston  are  Central  Square  and  Belmont  Square,  con- 
taining about  three-quarters  of  an  acre  each ;  and  the 
smaller  parks  of  Putnam  Square,  Prescott  and  Maverick 
Squares.  In  the  Dorchester  district,  the  principal  park 
or  square,  as  it  is  called,  is  on  Meeting-House  Hill. 
Here  stands  the  soldiers'  monument 

While  in  this  vicinity,  the  pedestrian  tourist  will  be 
repaid  by  a  visit  to  the  new  streets  and  buildings,  on 
what  is  called  the  "  Back  Bay,"  now  the  fashionable 
quarter,  in  which  is  situated  the  Vendome,  foremost 
among  first-class  hotels,  a  magnificent  and  elegant 
structure  of  white  marble,  eight  stories  high,  on  the 
corner  of  Commonwealth  Avenue  and  Dartmouth  Street, 
opened  in  1880,  costing  over  one  million  of  dollars,  and 
entirely  fireproof;  furnished  throughout  in  palatial  style, 
without  regard  to  expense,  making  it,  in  its  full  com- 
pleteness, one  of  the  most  costly  and  luxurious  in  the 
country  ;  built  expressly  for,  and  now  under  the  able 
management  of,  Col.  J.  W.  Wolcott.    It  is  in  a  delightful 


All-Ronnd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.         345 


34^       All-RoMid  Route  and  Patwramic  Guide, 


W'-: 


1:' 


l*:-'  '*-. 


V     • 


situation,  and  has  a  cuisine  that  can  hard^  ^^'^  ^^  g:*atify 
the  most  epicurean  taste.  This  new  and  superb  hotel 
must,  for  the  present,  stand  pre-en'iinrntly  the  leading 
first-class  house  in  the  city. 

FANEUIL    HALL. 

The  remains  of  this  famous  edifice,  called  the  "  Cradle 
of  Liberty,"  stand  at  the  head  of  State  Street.  It  is 
very  old,  and  is  an  object  of  deep  interest  to  Americans. 
It  was  presented  to  the  city,  by  Peter  Faneuil,  a  distin- 
guished merchant,  who  on  the  4th  of  July,  1740,  made 
an  offer,  in  a  town  meeting,  to  build  a  market-house. 
The  building  was  begun  the  following  year,  and  finished 
in  1748.  It  has  been  used  at  various  times  as  a  City 
Hall,  Court  House,  Assembly  Room,  and  for  other 
purposes.  In  1776,  the  Declaration  of  Independence 
was  n.a d  from  the  balcony  of  it. 

The  Court  House  on  Court  House  Square  ;  the  City 
Hali,  on  School  street ;  the  Custom  House,  on  State 
street ;  the  State  House,  overlooking  the  Common ;  the 
Boston  Public  Library,  on  Boylston  street ;  the  City 
Hospital,  on  Harrison  Avenue;  Tremont  Temple,  on 
Tremont  street ;  the  Masonic  Temple,  at  the  corner  of 
Tretnont  and  Boylston  streets ;  the  Merchants'  Exchange, 
on  State  street ;  the  Athenaeum,  on  Beacon  street,  are 
all  points  which  should  be  visited. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Boston  proper  are  many  sights  of 
great  interest 

HARVARD   UNIVERSITY. 

This  venerable  seat  of  learning  is  at  Cambridge,  three 
miles  from  the  city  of  Boston.  It  was  founded  in  1638, 
by  the  Rev.  John   Harvard.     The   University  embraces, 


tl^ 


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348        All'RoMtd  Rotite  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

besides  its  collegiate  departments,  law,  medical,  and 
theological  schools.  The  buildings  are  1 5  in  number,  all 
located  in  Cambridge,  except  that  of  the  Medical  School 
in  North  Grove  street,  in  Boston.  Gore  Hall  and  Uni~ 
versity  Hall  are  handsome  edifices,  the  former  containing 
the  library,  and  the  latter  the  chapel,  lecture-room,  &c. 
Holden  Ckapel  contaiins  the  Anatomical  Museum.  The 
Observatory  and  telescope  are  of  very  great  interest. 


lif-y. 


ENTRANCE  TO  MOUNT  AUBURN  CEMETERY, 


'  1 

i  ■ 

&  ••  - 

f    ■ 

< 

• 

^/•\  '^ 

■  *'■   ;' 

MOUNT  AUBURN  CEMETERY, 

about  a  mile  from  Harvard  University,  and  about  four 
miles  from  Boston,  by  the  Road  from  Old  Cambridge  to 
Watertown,  constitutes  one  of  the  sights  of  Bostoii,  and 
should  be  seen  by  every  visitor.  It  is  the  property  of  the 
Massachusetts  Horticultural  Society,  was  consecrated 
September  24,  1831,  and  contains   140  acres.     It  is  the 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.       349 


oldest,  and  by  many  considered  the  most  beautiful  of 
American  rural  burying-places.  The  gateway  is  of 
Quincy  granite,  and  cost  $10,000.  The  Chapel,  an 
ornamented  Gothic  edifice  of  granite,  with  stained  glass 
windows,  contains  statues  of  Winthrop,  Otis,  John 
Adams,  and  Judge  Story.  Ttu  Tower,  60  feet  in  height, 
in  the  rear  of  the  grounds,  is   187  feet  above  Charles 


;  vci 


,■  J 


n 


BUNKER  HILL   MONUMENT. 


River,  and  commands  a  wide  and  charming  view  for 
many  miles.  Cars  run  from  the  station  in  Bowdoin 
Square,  via  Cambridge  (Harvard  College),  every  15 
minutes,  during  the  day,  and  until  half-past  eleven 
o'clock  at  night  Bunker  Hill  Monument,  commemora- 
tive of  the  eventful   battle   fought  on   the  spot,  is   in 


350       All-Round  Route  atid  Panoramic  Guide, 


*'.'<.■  • 


if.  M 


Charleston,  occupying  the  site  of  the  old  redoubt  on 
Breed's  Hill.  The  observatory  at  the  top  of  this  structure 
commands  a  magnificent  view,  embracing  a  wide  extent 
of  land  and  water  scenery.  The  journey  up  is  somewhat 
tedious,  vraversing  nearly  300  steps.  The  dedication  of 
this  monument  took  place  June  17,  1843.  On  the  hill  is 
a  stone  marking  the  spot  where  Warren  felL  Horse-cars 
run  from  the  head  of  Tremont  street  to  the  monument. 

THE  UNIT^.D   STATES    NAVY-YARD, 

extending  between  the  mouths  of  the  Charles  and  Mystic 
rivers,  and  embracing  about  100  acres  in  extent,  is  near 
the  Bunker  Hill  Monument. 

There  are  many  other  points  worthy  of  a  visit  In 
fact  to  note  even  the  more  prominent  would  require  more 
space  than  our  work  would  permit  A  very  full  and  in- 
teresting account  of  the  city  and  its  public  offices  may  be 
seen  by  purchasing  a  copy  of  King's  "Handbook  of 
Boston,"  profusely  illustrated.  The  facilities  for  reaching 
these  cannot  be  excelled,  as  the  means  of  "  getting  about " 
in  Boston  are  generally  better,  as  well  as  cheaper,  than  in 
most  American  cities.  By  all  means,  we  urge  the  tourist 
to  thoroughly  "  do  "  the  city  of  ^  ^ton. 

FROM  MONTREAL  TO   NEW  YORK    DIRECT. 

|N  order  to  meet  all  classes  of  tourists,  we  have  con- 
sidered it  advisable  to  say  a  few  words  in  regard  to 
the  routes  to  New  York  out  of  Montreal.  There 
are  many  who  may  doubtless  desire,  after  making  a  short 
stay  in  Montreal,  to  return  home  direct,  from  lack  of 
time  or  other  causes  to  visit  the  lower  St.  Lawrence,  and, 
although  our  Guide  accompanies  the  through  travellers,  a 


Ii/ 


L-V 


•  I 


iii) 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       351 

few  hints  and  recommendations  to  those  giving  up  the 
tour  at  Montreal  may  not  come  amiss. 

Three  routes  lie  at  the  choice  of  passengers,  two  "all 
rail,"  and  the  third,  rail  and  water  combined.  During  the 
summer  season,  the  train,  via  the  Central  Vermont  Rail- 
way, leaves  the  depot  at  Montreal  in  the  afternoon,  reach- 
ing New  York  about  noon  the  follow  wig  day.  Passengers 
may  travel  via  Troy,  or  Springfield,  according  as  they 
may  elect  to  take  their  passages.  The  other  all  rail  route 
is,  via  the  Delaware  &  Hudson  Canal  Railroad,  leaving 
Montreal  during  the  afternoon,  and  reaching  New  York 
early  the  following  morning. 

Another  route  referred  to,  is  via  Plattsbui^  and  Lake 
Champlain.  This  is  a  very  favorite  way  of  going  to  New 
York,  and  is  so  well-known  and  appreciated  that  little 
requires  to  be  said  in  recommendation  of  it.  During  the 
pleasure  season,  trains  leave  the  depot,  Montreal,  for 
Plattsburg,  connecting  at  that  place  with  the  very  fine 
boats  of  the  Champlain  Transportation  Company,  for 
Burlington  and  Ticonderoga.  Those  leaving  Montreal 
by  the  evening  train  will  find  it  a  very  pleasant  break  in 
the  journey  to  remain  over  night  in  Plattsburg,  and  take 
the  boat  the  following  day. 

For  complete  information  on  the  starting  of  trains  and 

steamboats,  we  would  advise  all  tourists  to  secure  a  copy 

of  the   International    Railway   and   Steam  Navigation 

Guide,  which  may  be  relied  on  to  furnish  information  up 

to  the  latest  possible  time  prior   to   publication  (semi-^ 

monthly.) 

ALL  RAIL  ROUTE  TO  NEW  YORK. 

Those  who  adopt  this  route  will  proceed  direct  from 
Montreal   to  St.    Albans.     Before  reaching   this   point, 


1*^ 


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352       Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

however,  we  would  invite  the  tourist  to  accompany  us  to 
one  of  the  most  delightful  Parks  in  the  State  of  Ver- 
mont 

MISSISQUOI  PARK, 

lately  established  by  the  Central  Vermont  Railroad,  at 
which  they  have  placed  a  station,  distant  about  12  miles 
from  St  Albans,  and  a  few  rods  north  of  Highgate  Springs, 
the  great  summer  resort  of  Northern  Vermont  This  is 
a  new  attraction  to  this  delightful  neighborhood  ;  for, 
as  rich  as  Vermont  is  in  lovely  localities,  there  is  none 
more  favored  by  nature  than  that  which  has  been  known 
for  years  and  years  as  "  Lover's  Lane,"  at  Highgate 
Springs.  It  is  a  delightful  combination  of  grassy  lawn, 
grand  old  elms  and  butternuts,  pungent  cedars,  moss- 
grown  rocks  and  silvery  waters.  Though  easy  of  access, 
it  is  hardly  less  wild  [and  romantic  than  in  the  days 
long  gone,  when  the  dusky  Iroquois  fished  in  the  waters 
of  the  Bay. 

The  Canada  line  of  the  Central  Vermont  Railroad 
leaves  excursionists  quite  near  the  grounds,  which  are, 
in  fact,  easy  of  access  to  most  of  the  cities  and  towns  in 
Vermont,  Lower  Canada  and  Northern  New  York,  by 
means  of  the  perfected  railway  system  of  the  corporation 
having  it  in  charge. 

A  pleasant  ramble  is  obtained  on  leaving  the  excur- 
sion train  at  the  spacious  landing,  passing  through  the 
intervale,  which  separates  the  road  from  the  gjrounds, 
over  a  broad  plank  walk  terminating  in  an  arched  gate- 
way, bearing  the  inscription,  "  Missisquoi  Park."  Up 
an  easy,  grassy  grade  we  reach  the  big  Pavilion,  erected 
upon  a  plateau  on  Elm  Ridge.    Stopping  to  admire  the 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       353 


artistic  beauty  of  its  architecture  a  moment,  and,  may- 
hap, to  watch  the  merry  dancers,  we  pass  to  the  north, 
down  a  winding  path,  and  out  to  the  attractive  little 
spring-house  of  "  Iroquois  Spring,"  where  we  quench 
our  thirst  with  its  famous  mineral  waters.  Back,  through 
"  Camp  Chittenden,"  we  again  visit  Elm  Ridge,  reaching 
it  by  means  of  a  delightful  winding  path,  up  through 
grim,  gray  rocks,  past  rustic  seats  in  cosy  nooks,  till  we 
reach  the  band  stand.  Passing  southward  we  soon  find 
the  beautiful  little  Ice  Cream  Pavilion.  Down  through 
Butternut  Walk  we  go,  out  upon  the  green,  grassy  open- 
ing of  "  Lover's  Lane."  On  the  right  is  "  Elm  Ridge," 
with  its  graceful  elms  and  butternuts  ;  on  the  left, 
**  Cedar  Ridge,"  thickly  covered  with  the  fragrant  ever- 
greens, while  falling  away  in  a  long,  gentle  slope,  the 
green  lane  meets  the  silvery  water  of  the  Bay.  Strolling 
down  past  the  Croquet  Grounds,  the  Big  Swings,  the 
Family  Tables,  under  the  Four  Brothers,  we  take  "  Pic- 
nic Avenue,"  just  where  it  starts  from  the  foot  of  the 
lane.  This  is  one  of  the  most  delightful  and  popular 
walks  on  the  grounds.  The  way  is  winding  and  easy, 
among  the  cedars  and  moss-grown  rocks,  on  the  west  of 
the  ridge,  and  overlooking  Kingfisher's  Bay.  The  avenue 
is  well  up  above  the  water,  almost  overhanging  it  in 
places,  a  strong  rail  now  and  then  standing  guard. 
Rustic  benches  are  conveniently  placed,  where  parties 
with  their  lunch  baskets  can  picnic,  while  watching  the 
gay  skiffs  and  merry  bathers.  Here,  where  a  cleft  in  the 
rock  comes  up  to  meet  the  avenue,  easy  steps  lead 
down  to  the  Bath  House.  Passing  along  we  come  to 
Point  Lookout,  from  whence  we  gaze  in  admiration 
across  the  waters  upon  the   bold,  picturesque  bluff  in 

23 


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4. 


354       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Gtdde, 


>i  /  ..'  r  ' 


tm:    '" 


■« ' 


Phillipsburgh,  just  over  the  border.  Over  the  Bay,  to 
the  left,  is  the  green  fringed  shore  of  Alburgh,  while  far 
over  the  waters  can  be  seen  the  church  spires  of  Clarence- 
ville  and  Henryville,  thrifty  Canadian  villages.  Away 
to  the  north  stands  Scotch  Mountain,  sentinel -like,  over 
Her  Majesty's  Dominion.  Crossing  the  Rustic  Bridge, 
which  spans  Kingfisher's  Bay,  we  reach  the  Boat  House 
at  Sargent's.  In  a  skiff  we  visit  Rock  Island  and  inspect 
its  rocky  sides,  furrowed  with  the  beating  of  the  waves 
for  centuries.  Back  again,  and  over  the  bridge  we 
scramble  up  the  hill-side,  and  soon  find  ourselves  once 
more  in  Lover's 'Lane. 

The  Pavilion  is  a  graceful  structure,  Swiss-like  in 
architecture,  and  finished  much  more  elaborately  than 
such  buildings  generally  are.  The  main  part  is  33x30 
feet,  in  which  are  located  the  Superintendent's  office, 
telegraph  office,  cloak  and  parcel  room,  waiting-room, 
ladies*  room  and  kitchen.  The  kitchen  is  supplied  with 
range  and  all  other  necessary  conveniences.  Running 
out  from  this  building  is  the  Pavilion  proper,  31x60  feet, 
with  open  sides,  and  provided  with  movable  tables  and 
seats,  to  be  used  for  both  dining  and  dancing.  The  little 
building  at  the  right  of  the  main  part  is  the  office  of  the 
" Bay  View''  a  daily  paper,  published  every  excursion 
day,  of  especial  interest  to  every  excursionist. 

The  Ice  Cream  Stand  is  one  of  the  attractions  of  the 
park.  It  is  a  tasteful  structure,  well  arranged  for  the 
purpose,  and  under  the  direction  of  Dunton,  the  well- 
known  and  popular  restaurant  proprietor  of  St.  Albans. 
Here  ice  cream,  cake,  and  soda  water  can  be  obtained. 

At  the  Bath  House  bathing  costumes  can  be  obtained 
at  a  nominal  sum.     The  watpr  is  shallow  near  the  shore, 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        355 


gradually  deepening  ;  the  bottom  hard,  smooth  sand, 
making  safe  and  pleasant  bathing. 

The  Boating  in  Missisquoi  Bay  is  unsurpassed.  The 
boat  livery  of  twenty-five  light  running  skiffs,  in  charge 
of  Sargent,  is  always  in  first-class  order,  and  ready  for 
instant  use.  Most  of  the  boats  are  new  this  season,  and 
seldom  such  a  fine  collection  is  seen.  Safe  and  pleasant 
rowing  is  always  assured  here,  owing  to  the  location  of 
the  little  bays.  It  may  be  well  to  state  that  to  Canadian 
waters  it  is  but  an  easy  row. 

The  fishing  hereabouts  is  the  best  on  Lake  Champlain. 
Th's  has  long  been  the  angler's  paradise,  and  catches 
of  five-pound  bass  and  ten-pound  pickerel  are  almost 
daily  occurrences.  Missisquoi  Bay  is  well  known  to  be 
the  breeding  ground  of  the  fish  of  the  lake.  All  seasons 
of  the  year  fish  of  some  kind  can  be  caught,  through  the 
hottest  days  of  August,  and  the  ice  of  December. 
Trolling  is  the  most  common  mode  of  fishing,  though 
with  expert  anglers,  live  bait  and  the  fly  are  the  most 
popular. 

The  entire  grounds,  the  pavilion,  the  Kitchen,  the 
spring  water,  croquet  grounds  and  patent  swiiigs,  are  all 
free  for  the  use  of  the  excursionists.  A  short  ride 
brings  us  to 

ST.  ALBANS. 

>HE  American   House  is  situated  in  the  pleasant 

fa  . 

village  of  St  Albans,  on  the  Central  Vermont 
Railroad.  It  is  a  very  cheerful,  agreeable  and 
comfortable  house,  admirably  arranged  for  families,  with 
suites  of  room  of  two  or  more.  The  location  offers  all 
the  benefits  of  the  Mountain  air,  combined  with  the  ^cool 


•'(it 


'ft 


if 


■il 


*V>ll!  • 


356       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

and  refreshing  winds  from  Lake  Champlain.  The 
panoramic  views  from  St  Albans  are  among  the  finest 
in  the  Green  Mountains.  Aldis  Hill,  one-half  mile  from 
the  American  House ;  the  summit  of  Bellevue,  accessible 
by  an  easy  carriage  road,  is  within  two  miles  of  the 
Hotel,  commanding  on  the  east  a  view  of  Mounts 
Mansfield  and  Jay ;  on  the  west,  a  magnificent  view  of 
the  Adirondacks,  mountains,  hills  and  plains,  adorned 
with  lovely  farms  and  villages ;  also  a  fine  view  of  Lake 


W ' 


^^ 


m 


.^^^^.SHrfSftf^-S^iAiW*' 


AMERICAN  HOUSE,  ST.  ALBANS.  -  S.  I.  STROUD,  PROPRIETOR. 

Champlain,  broken  with  islands.  In  addition  to  the 
above  are  the  wonderful  mineral  waters  of  Missisquoi, 
Sheldon,  Highgate  and  Alburgh  Springs. 

We  would  also  here  call  the  attention  of  tourists  going 
through  from  Montreal,  to  the  Franklin  House  and 
Cottages,  at  Highgate  Springs,  in  Franklin  county,  in 
the  north-west  corner  of  Vermont,  1 2  miles  north  of  St. 
Albans,  where  fishing,  duck  shooting,  boating  and 
yachting  are  found. 


i^^^ 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       357 

About  ten  minutes  walk  westerly  from  the  Franklin 
House  are  a  wharf,  warehouse,  and  steamboat  dock,  on 
what  is  called  Missisquoi  Bay,  a  part  of  Lake  Champlain, 
and  quite  a  lake  of  itself,  being  eight  or  ten  miles  across, 
and  some  forty  miles  around.  Plenty  of  row-boats  are 
kept  here  for  guests  and  visitors.  In  the  waters  of  this 
Bay  is  the  best  pickerel,  pike  and  black  bass  fishing  to 
be  found  anywhere,  and  as  fine  duck  shooting  as  can  be 
desired. 

Sixteen  miles  north  of  St  Albans  are  the  celebrated 


J.' 


"'^■ 


ALBURGH   SPRINGS, 

much  resorted  to  by  invalids,  and  situated  in  the 
extreme  northern  part  of  Vermont,  sixteen  miles  west 
of  St  Albans  and  seven  east  from  Rouses'  Point, 
on  the  Central  Vermont  Railway.  It  is  surrounded 
by  water  on  all  sides  except  to  the  north,  and  is 
beautifully  situated  between  Lake  Champlain  and 
Missiquoi  Bay,  which  greatly  adds  to  the  freshness  of 
the  temperature  in  summer,  while  its  fine  air,  besides 
being  cool  and  refreshing,  is  a  complete  antidote  for 
asthma,  catarrh  or  hay  fever.  The  waters  of  the  Lake 
and  Bay  offer  great  allurements  to  the  sportsman  and 
angler,  and  its  boating  is  delightful  The  Springs  are 
of  the  Sulphur  and  Lithia  class,  and  its  waters  have  at- 
tained a  wide  reputation  for  their  curative  qualities,  the 
power  and  extent  of  which  are  well  established.  Good 
and  experienced  boatmen  may  be  had  at  all  times,  and 
pleasant  excursion  made  to  numerous  points  on  the 
Lake.  The  views  from  the  Springs  are  very  charming  ; 
to  the  East,  over  the  placid  waters  of  the  Missiquoi, 
may  be  seen  the  pleasant  town  of  St  Albans,  while  in 


fjJT 


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358       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

the  background  tower  Mount  Mansfield,  Camel's  Hump, 
Jay  Peak,  and  further  north  a  long  range  of  mountains 
in  Canada.  From  a  little  elevation,  of  easy  access,  there 
is  a  beautiful  view  across  Lake  Champlain  to  Rouse's 
Point,  and  the  western  horizon  bounded  by  the  Adiron- 
dack Mountains.  The  roads  are  good,  and  the  drives 
and  walks  pleasant  and  numerous.  The  best  hotel  is 
the  Alburgh  Springs  House,  in  a  beautiful  situation,  and 
which  has  the  reputation  of  being  very  comfortable  and 
well  kept. 

Passing  onward  from  St  Albans,  after  a  ride  of 
eighteen  mi'.c-:5,  Essex  Junction  is  reached,  whence  the 
tourist  may,  after  an  hour's  ride,  reach  the  beautiful 
town  of 

BURLINGTON,  (Vt.) 

which  lies  on  the  east  shore  of  Burlington  Bay,  and  occupies 
a  gentle  declivity  descending  toward  the  west,  terminated 
by  the  lake,  which  up  to  this  point  quite  narrow,  here 
expands  into  a  fine  sheet  of  water,  nearly  if  not  quite 
ten  miles  wide  from  the  Vermont  to  the  New  \ork 
shore.  Standing  on  the  east  declivity,  say  a  mile  from 
the  lake  and  some  280  feet  above  its  level,  and  looking 
on  either  hand  you  behold  the  most  perfect  picture  of 
noble  and  varied  natural  scenery  to  be  found  in  America, 
and  equalled  in  Europe,  if  it  be  equalled,  only  by  the 
view  of  Lake  Geneva,  looking  forth  from  Lausanne. 
Below  you  are  the  glittering  waters  of  Champlain,  broken 
here  and  there  by  lovely  islands  that  lift  their  green 
heads  above  the  waves  at  various  points  in  this  ten  miles 
of  lake,  that  stretches  out  between  these  "  shining  shores." 
Before  you  are  the  Adirondack  Mountains  of  New  York 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       359 

"all  gleaming  in  purple  and  gold;"  behind  you  are  the 
Green  Mountains  of  Vermont,  clad  in  garments  of  equal 
yet  different  glory.  On  your  left  is  Shelburne  Bay  with 
its  curving  coasts.  On  your  right  hand,  your  pleased 
eye  follows  the  bending  shore  as  it  sweeps  in  faultless 
lines  to  Rock  Point  At  Burlington,  the  tourist,  who 
wishes  to  take  in  the  exquisite  scenery  of  the  beautiful 
Champlain  with  its  sinuous  bays  and  breezy  headlands 
(a  more  particular  description  of  which  will  be  found 
further  on),  will  take  one  of  the  fine  steamers  of  the 
Champlain  Transportation  Co. 

The  drives  are  delightful  in  all  directions  leading  out 
of  Burlington.  Mallet's  Bay,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water 
full  of  excellent  fish,  is  only  six  miles  distant,  and  is 
reached  by  a  road  that  gives  you  a  general  view  of  the 
Winooski  River  flowing  through  a  stretch  of  charming 
country ;  while  the  drive  along  the  lake  shore  in 
Shelburne  is  equally  attractive.  Strangers  should  not 
fail  to  drive  through  the  elegant  grounds  of  Col.  De 
Grand  B.  Cannon,  as  from  this  commanding  eminence 
can  be  gained  the  most  perfect  outlook  in  the  city, 

Among  the  other  points  of  interest  is  Green  Mount 
Cemetery,  where  lies  buried  Ethan  Allen,  "The  Hero  of 
Ti — ,"  whose  grave  is  marked  with  a  handsome 
monument  Lake  View  Cemetery  "Rock  Point;"  the 
beautiful  residence  of  the  late  Bishop  Hopkins,  of  the 
Episcopal  Church,  and  the  "  High  Bridge "  on  the 
Winoc'jkj,  are  also  well  worthy  a  visit ;  all  these  points 
are  approached  by  pleasant  drives. 

QUEEN  CITY   PARK  AND   PIC-NIC  GROUNDS. 
This  delightful  spot  is  situated  on  the  shores  of  the 


1 


HM!'  ^" 


r,v>r.,' . 


360       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

beautiful  Shelburne  Bay,  about  two  miles  from  Burling- 
ton,   on  the  Rutland  division  of  the  Central  Vermont 
Railroad.     The  entrance  to  the  Park  is  alongside  the 
main  line  of  the  Rutland  road,  where  a  platform  5 16  feet 
in  length  by  12  in  width  is  built,  for  the  accommodation 
of  the  train-loads  of  pleasure-seekers  who  crowd  to  this 
delightful   place.     Inside  the   entrance  diverging  paths 
take  one  by  circuitous  or  direct  routes  to  the  centre  of 
the  grove,  which  is  a  plateau  about   seventy-five   feet 
above,   and    directly   overlooking    Shelburne    Bay  and 
Harbor.     In  the  centre  of  the  plateau^  an  open  space  of 
about  four  acres,  are  numerous  croquet  grounds,  with 
croquet-sets  free  for  use  of  excursionists.     At  the  rear  of 
the  base-ball  ground  is  a  handsome  pavilion,  50  x  30 ; 
and  adjoining  this  a  neat  kitchen  and  store-room,  40x20. 
The  kitchen  is  supplied  with  everything  requisite  in  the 
way   of   cooking    utensils,  for    the   free   use  of  parties 
occupying  the  ground.      Tables   are  provided    for  the 
pavUion,  where  lunches  and  dinners  can  be  served.     For 
the  convenience  of  the  kitchen,  water  is  forced  from  the 
lake  by  an  hydraulic  ram.     Ice-water  in  ample  quantities 
is  supplied  to  all.     The  pavilion  also  affords  an  excellent 
opportunity  for  "  tripping  the  light  fantastic."     The  view 
from  the    pavilion    is  one  of    unequalled    beauty   and 
grandeur.     At    the   foot  of    the   bluff    on  which    the 
pavilion  stands  is  the  beautiful  land-locked   bay,  with 
scarcely  a  ripple  on  its  glistening  surface ;  while  beyond, 
past   Shelburne  Point,  can    be  seen    the   white-capped 
waves  of  the  broad  Lake  Champlain.     Across  the  bay 
are  the  shipyard   and  Shelburne  harbor ;  and   back  of 
these,  and  seemingly  close  at  hand,  stretching  away  on 
either     side,     the     rugged     peaks     of    the     majestic 


All  Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


361 


Adirondacks  tower  toward  the  sky ;  while  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  plateau,  the  Camel's  Hump  and 
Mount  Mansfield,  the  pride  of  Vermont,  rear  their  lofty 
heads,  the  whole  forming  a  view  which  cannot  be 
excelled.  Close  by  the  pavilion  is  a  handsome  band- 
stand, eighteen  feet  in  diameter,  and  provided  with 
chairs. 

Shadowing  the  pavilion,  and  extending  out  toward 
the  point  of  the  bluff,  is  a  large  grove,  so  thoroughly 
shaded  by  the  thick  tree-tops  that  scarcely  a  bit  of  sky 
can  be  seen  above  them.  In  this  grove  are  a  large 
number  of  rustic  seats,  "just  large  enough  for  two ;"  also 
tables  surrounded  by  seats  for  a  family-circle.  Here  are 
also  a  large  number  of  rope  and  patent  box  swings. 
The  undergrowth  in  this  grove  has  been  all  cleared  off, 
and  the  ground  swept  as  clean  as  the  tidy  housewife's 
kitchen  floor.  In  the  open  circle  a  fountain  supplied 
by  water,  forced  by  a  steam  engine  from  the  shore  of  the 
bay,  showers  its  cool,  refreshing  drops,  which  the  sun- 
light transforms  into  beautiful  rainbow  colors. 

From  the  plateau  a  number  of  paths  descend  to  the 
sandy  beach,  a  most  important  feature  of  the  grounds. 
This  beach  is  over  a  mile  in  length,  and  thirty  feet  in 
width,  and,  being  perfectly  dry,  affords  a  delightful 
promenade. 

At  one  end  of  the  beach  is  a  fine  bathing-house  with 
ample  accommodation.  The  bottom  of  the  lake  here 
is  smooth,  hard  sand,  entirely  free  from  stone ;  and,  the 
water  being  shallow — not  exceeding  five  feet  in  depth 
at  five  hundred  feet  from  the  shore — the  place  is  well 
adapted  to  this  pleasant  and  exhilarating  exercise. 
Bathing-suits  can  be  had  at  the  bathing-house  from  a 


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362        All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


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reliable  person  in  charge.  The  lake  view  is  said  by 
artists  to  prseent,  to  the  eye  gazing  toward  the  lake,  one 
of  the  finest  views  in  Vermont. 

Boating,  being  a  most  important  and  prominent 
feature  of  pic-nics  and  excursions,  has  been  fully 
recognized  ;  and  the  steamboat  Companies  of  Burling- 
ton have  made  liberal  arrangements  for  those  desiring 
boats  ;  the  list  including  row  and  sail  boats,  yachts  and 
small  steam-tugs  which  will  be  let  at  a  nominal  sum  per 
hour.  A  fine  dock  a  hundred  feet  long  by  ten  feet  in 
width,  is  completed  for  the  accommodation  of  the  large 
boats  and  tugs. 

Arrangements  have  been  made  under  the  supervision 
of  D.  C.  Linsley,  Esq,  with  different  steamboat 
companies,  for  a  ride  down  the  "  Point  "  on  the  "  Herald  " 
or  the  "  Mariquita,"  from  the  dock  to  Central  Wharf, 
Burlington,  for  fifteen  cents  each  way,  tickets  for  which 
can  be  obtained  at  the  office  on  the  pic-nic  grounds. 
The  steamer  "  Julia "  can  be  chartered  by  parties  at 
very  reasonable  rates  to  make  such  trips  as  they  may 
desire.  "■  '■>"^'- -^  '  .-^     -' 

A  number  of  new  croquet  grounds  have  been  laid  out 
in  the  shade.  A  Telegraph  office  has  been  built  on  the 
park,  with  wires  direct  to  all  points,  and  an  operator  in 
attendance.  An  ice-house,  filled  during  the  past  winter, 
insures  cool,  refreshing  water. 

The  managers  of  the  Central  Vermont  Railroad  run 
special  trains  during  the  summer  both  for  Sabbath  schools 
and  the  general  public,  each  excursion  being  distinct ; 
those  for  the  Sunday  Schools  being  exclusively  for 
Sunday-school  scholars,  teachers  and  friends.  These 
trains  are  run  so  as  to  accommodate  all,  and  are  managed 


'M 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        363 

with  that  cai  vhich  forms  a  prominent  characteristic  of 
the  road. 

Returning  to  Essex  Junction,  the  tourist  may  continue 
his  journey  to  Bellows  Falls,  via  White  River"  Junction 
or  Rutland. 

As  there  are  many  points  of  interest  on  either  route* 
we  shall  mention  the  more  prominent  ones.  Passing 
by  the  first  route  named,  we  speedily  reach  Montpelier, 
the  Capital  of  Vermont  and  the  handsomest,  if  not  the 
largest,  town  in  the  State.  There  is  an  air  tf  dignity, 
and  repose  about  it  which  is  attractive  to  the  tourist,  and 
the  charms  of  the  country  surrounding  it  are  unsurpassed 
by  any  other  part  of  the  State. 

MONTPELIER 

is  on  the  Winooski  river,  and  stands  on  what  is  said  to 
have  formerly  been  the  bed  of  a  lake.  It  is  most  plea- 
santly situated,  and  possesses  many  buildings  worthy  of 
the  tourist's  inspection. 

WATERBURY  (Vt.). 

This  pretty  village,  on  the  line  of  the  Central  Ver- 
mont Railroad,  twelve  miles  north  of  Montpelier,  is 
situated  amid  the  heights  of  the  Green  Mountains,  and 
surrounded  by  magnificent  scenery  and  picturesque 
views,  which,  added  to  good  roads,  elegant  drives,  and 
pure  air,  make  it  a  most  desirable  place  of  resort.  It  is 
twenty  miles  from  the  summit  of  Mount  Mansfield,  and 
ten  miles  from  Mount  Mansfield  Hotel,  a  celebrated 
summer  resort ;  eight  miles  from  Camel's  Hump,  a  lofty 
mountain  of  almost  equal  attraction  and  notoriety  ;  four 
miles  from  the  great  Winooski  River,  where  the  rocks 


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364        All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

form  a  natural  bridge  across  the  river,  and  large  caves 
where  the  Indians  once  made  their  homes  ;  traces  of  the 
latter  are  still  plainly  to  be  seen. 

Waterbury  Hotel  is  a  well-appointed  house,  only  a 
few  rods  from  the  depot,  is  very  pleasant,  large  and 
roomy,  with  long,  wide,  double  verandas,  and  a  special 
dancing-hall,  croquet  grounds,  and  good  stabling  for 
horses,  also  a  fine  livery  stable  connected  with  the  house. 
Elegant  six  horse-coaches  leave  here  morning  and  even- 
ing for  Stbwe  and  Mount  Mansfield. 

THE  VILLAGE  OF  STOWE. 

Situated  in  the  Lamoille  Valley,  completely  flanked  by 
mountains, — the  most  conspicuous  of  which  are  Mansfield 
and  Worcester, — is  the  delightful  village  of  Stowe,  con- 
taining a  population  of  over  2,cxx)  inhabitants.  Stages 
connect  with  trains,  morning  and  afternoon,  at  Water- 
bury,  ten  miles  distant,  on  the  Vermont  Central,  and  at 
Morrisville,  eight  miles  distant,  on  the  Portland  and 
Ogdensbnrg  R.  R,  The  scenery  surrounding  Stowe  is 
very  beautiful,  comprising  the  valley,  which  extends  for 
many  miles  to  the  north-east  ;  Worcester  mountain 
range  at  the  east ;  Camel's  Hump  at  the  south  ;  while 
at  the  west,  Old  Mount  Mansfield  towers  in  all  its  hoary 
grandeur.  The  mountain  appears  of  peculiar  shape,  the 
outline  of  its  summit  resembling  the  human  face,  turned 
upward  in  a  reclining  posture.  The  north  peak  repre- 
sents the  chin,  the  middle  the  nose,  and  the  southern 
the  forehead.  The  Chin,  the  highest  summit,  is  4,348 
feet  above  the  sea-level,  and  is  the  highest  of  the  whole 
Green  Mountain  range.  It  is  3,800  feet  above  the 
village  of  Stowe,  and  340  feet  above  the  middle  peak,  or 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        365 

the  Nose,  which  is  160  feet  above  the  southern  peak,  the 
Forehead. 

The  mountain  summit  is  nine  miles  distant  from  the 
hotel  which  bears  its  name.     There  is  a  good  carriage 
road  from  Stowe  to  the  Summit  House,  which  is  situated 
at  the  very  base  of  the  Nose.      For  the  first  five  miles 
this  road  is  over  the  usual  travelled  highway  ;  when  the 
mountain  base  is  reached,  the  road  branches  oflf  and  the 
ascent  commences.     The  path,   however,   is  not  very 
steep,  and  is  kept  in  excellent  order.    Two  miles  and  a 
half  of  a  pretty  steep  ascent,  for  the  greater  part  of  the 
way  through  a  magnificent  forest,  brings  the  traveller  to 
the  Half-way  House.     Here  one  ought  to  make  a  long 
pause  to  admire  the  splendid  view  spread  out  before 
him.    The  lovely  valley  of  Stowe,  which  has  just  been 
left  with  its  smooth  green  farms,  lies  at  his  feet,  and 
beyond,   the   hills   and   higher  summits  of  the   Green 
Mountain.      In    a   clear    day    the    summit    of  Mount 
Washington  is  dimly  visible,  though  partially  hidden  by 
the  nearer  hills.     A  clear  spring  of  pure  water,  a  little 
distance  away  may  be  visited  before  starting  on  the 
ascent  of  the  remaining  one  and  a  half  miles  of  the  peak. 
The  journey  is  sooA  accomplished  in  an  agreeable  and 
pleasant  manner,  requiring  only  about  three  hours'  time 
from  Stowe  to  the  summit      The  view  is  hidden  by  the 
trees  for  the  greater  part  of  the  way,  but  occasionally  we 
catch  surprising  glimpses  of  a  wooded  ravine,  extending 
to  the  very  base  of  the  mountain,  and  far  away  to  the 
north  is  Smuggler's  Notch,  through  whose  flowing  walls 
are  seen  pleasant  vistas,  closed  in  the  distance  by  beau- 
tiful green  fields.     From  the  base  of  the  Nose,  near  the 
summit  of  the  mountain,  fully  4,000  feet  above  the  level 


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366 


All- Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


of  the  sea,  and  a  fine  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Stowe, 
towards  the  west  is  obtained,  the  wooded  side  of  Mount 
Mansfield  being  visible  to  its  very  base,  with  no  inter- 
vening summit  to  obstruct  the  vision,  the  scene  being 
only  closed  in  by  the  White  Mountain  range. 

Directly  above  towers  the  Nose,  4,008  feet  above  the 
sea  level.  Its  ascent  is  made  by  a  rough  path  on  the 
western  side,  much  resembling  a  flight  of  stairs.  The 
northern  side  presents  a  steep  and  precipitous  descent, 
down  which  you  may  look  from  the  summit  at  least  500 
feet.  Several  large  pieces  of  the  cliff  have,  from  time  to 
time,  been  detached  and  fallen  in  picturesque  ruins 
below.  It  is  but  a  short  walk  from  the  hotel  to  the 
Nose. 

To  ascend  the  Chin,  however,  requires  more  time, 
though  the  journey  is  less  fatiguing.  There  is  no  such 
precipitious  and  giddy  ascent,  but  the  mountain  slopes 
gently  and  gracefully  away  towards  the  hotel.  It  is 
distant  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  Summit  House, 
and  requires  a  longer  time  than  the  ascent  of  the  Nose. 
As  it  is  some  300  feet  higher  than  the  Nose,  it  conse- 
quently commands  a  more  extended  view. 

The  scene  that  is  spread  out  before  the  eye,  on  either 
of  the  summits  is  gorgeous  and  beautiful  in  the  extreme. 
Spreading  out  before  you  on  the  west  is  the  level,  fertile 
land  of  Western  Vermont,  diversified  by  pretty  hills, 
bordered  by  the  silver  waters  of  Lake  Champlain,  with 
the  deep  blue  Adirondack  Hills  in  the  far  distance  be 
yond.  This  view  is  singularly  attractive.  You  see  the 
farm-houses  clustering  into  villages  ;  you  can  follow  the 
courses  of  \the  winding,  trout-laden  streams  among  the 
hills  and  forests  ;  you  can  see  the  dark  green  of  the 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


367 


waving  corn,  and  can  almost  distinguish  the  farmers  at 
their  toil.  The  hills  of  Montreal  may  be  seen  to  the 
north,  and  on  a  pleasant  day  the  glistening  spires  of  that 
city.  The  whole  of  Lake  Champlain,  from  Fort  Ticon- 
deroga  to  the  extreme  north,  lies  stretched  out  before 
you.  Burlington,  on  its  shore,  can  be  easily  identified. 
Owl's  Head,  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Memphremagog,  lies 
away  to  the  north.  In  the  south,  rise  Camel's  Hump 
and  others  of  the  Green  Mountain  Range.  From  the 
Chin  you  may  also  look  down  into  Smuggler's  Notch, 
and  even  descend  into  it,  if  you  have  time  and  the 
necessary  pluck. 

On  the  way  to  the  Chin  may  be  seen,  in  many  places, 
parallel  lines  marked  on  the  rocks  in  a  uniform  north 
and  south  direction.  These  have  attracted  much  atten- 
tion from  geologists,  who  suppose  they  were  left  there 
by  the  glacier,  when  the  mountain  was  covered  by  snow 
and  ice,  and  it  carried  huge  stones  in  its  cold  embrace. 
In  one  place  are  two  huge  boulders  deposited  on  the 
mountain  top,  with  the  lines  they  made  in  reaching  the 
eminence,  visible  a  few  feet  from  them. 

The  "  Old  Man  of  Mansfield  Mountain  "  will  be 
pointed  out  to  you  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Nose.  The 
profile  is  quite  excellent,  and  the  features  possess  an  in- 
teresting regularity. 

The  next  important  point  reached  is 

WHITE  RIVER  JUNCTION, 

at  which  point  the  Northern  Railway,  the  Connecticut 
Valley  and  the  Passumpsic  River  Roads  connect  The 
Junction  House  at  this  place  has  long  been  a  favorite 
with  the  travelling  public,  and  offers  special  attractions 


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All'Rouftd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


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II 


for  tourists.  From  this  point,  passing  over  the  Central 
Vermont  Railroad,  a  ride  of  40  miles  brings  us  to 

BELLOWS    FALLS, 

the  most  prominent  town  in  Vermont  At  this  point  the 
Connecticut  River  is  compressed  into  a  space  less  than  50 
feet  wide,  and  through  this  narrow  gorge  all  the  water 
must  flow.  The  River  makes  a  descent  of  50  feet, 
though  there  is  not  any  one  perpendicular  fall.  In  the 
rocks  near  the  Falls  are  points  which  will  prove  of  inter- 
est to  the  antiquarian. 

Returning'  to  accompany  those  who  proceed  via  the 
Rutland  Route,  a  ride  of  59  miles  from  Essex  Junction 
and  the  thriving  town  of 

BRANDON 

is  reached.  This  town  contains  two  singular  caverns 
worthy  of  a  visit.  Minerals  of  different  kinds  abound, 
and  extensive  marble  quarries  are  also  in  operation. 

Leaving  Brandon  we  pass 

RUTLAND.         .      /  '  M 

This  place  is  best  known  in  connection  with  the  cele- 
brated marble  quarries,  from  which  large  quantities  of 
fine  white  marble  are  annually  shipped  by  railroad.  From 
this  point  the  tourist,  by  taking  the  Delaware  and  Hud- 
son Road,  can  proceed  direct  to  Troy,  and  thence  by  the 
Hudson  River  Road  to  New  York. 

He  may,  however,  continue  his  journey  from  Rutland 
to  Bellows  Falls,  thence  via  Connecticut  River  Railway 
to  New  Haven,  passing  on  his  way  through 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.        369 


SPRINGFIELD, 

with  its  celebrated  factories  and  substantially  built  edi- 
fices, and,  should  he  feel  desirous  of  remaining  over,  he 
could  not  do  better  than  take  up  his  abode,  during  his 
stay  in  the  place,  at  the  Massasoit  House,  Messrs.  M.  & 
E.  S.  Chapin,  proprietors,  where  we  can  assure  him  that 
all  the  comforts  desirable  will  be  readily  obtained,  and  he 
will  leave  the  city  with  pleasant  recollections  of  his  visit. 
The  distance  between  New  Haven  and  New  York  will  be 
speedily  traversed,  and  the  tourist  will  find  himself  once 
more  in  the  Metropolis. 

TO    NEW  YORK   AND    BOSTON   via    SOUTH 
EASTERN  RAILWAY. 

Another,  and  exceedingly  pleasant  and  popular  direct 
route  between  Montreal,  Boston  and  New  York,  is  that 
via  the  South  Eastern  Railway  and  its  connections.  1  he 
tourist  by  adopting  this  route  passes  through  the  most 
enchanting  regions  of  Canada,  Central,  Northern  Ver- 
mont, and  the  beautiful  Lakes  of  Memphremagog  and 
Winnepesaukee.  From  Montreal  to  Lake  Memphiema- 
gog,  going  over  the  South  Eastern  Railroad,  the  scenery 
is  the  finest  to  be  found  in  Lower  Canada,  and  it  is  the 
charm  and  attraction  of  this  route  to  pleasure  travellers 
that  it  affords  a  continuous  panorama  of  Mountain,  Lake 
and  River  views,  which  are  nowhere  surpassed  in  their 
attractive  loveliness.  There  are  Jay  Peak  and  Owl's 
Head,  Lake  Memphremagog,  Crystal  Lake,  the  White 
Mountains,  Lake  Winnepesaukee,  and  the  lovely  Pas- 
>iinipsic,  Connecticut  and  Merrimac  River  Valleys,  and 
tliL  whole  route  forms  a  most  delightful  and  fascinating 

24 


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370       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

trip.  For  those  who  have  not  the  time  or  the  wish  to 
visit  either  the  Mountains  or  the  Lakes,  this  road  afifords 
attractions  equally  strong  with  those  it  presents  to  pleasure 
travellers. 

Leaving  Montreal  at  the  Grand  Trunk  Station  and  pass- 
ing onward  by  Chambly,  the  tourist  speedily  finds  himself 
winding  through  the  lovely  Mountains,  passing  at  the  foot 
of  Jay  Peak.  The  name  '  Green  Mountains  '  is  truly  ap- 
propriate, and  it  may  be  applied  to  the  green  hills  which 
surround  us  on  every  hand.  Scarcely  has  the  tourist 
passed  this  point  until  the  flourishing  town  of  Newport, 
Vt.,  is  reached.  Approaching  this  town  the  road  skirts 
the  shores  of  the  beautiful  Lake  Memphremagog,  which 
is  well  worthy  of  a  visit 

LAKE  MEMPHREMAGOG 

is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  situated  partly  in  Vermont, 
and  partly  in  Canada.  It  is  35  miles  long,  and  varies 
from  2  to  5  miles  in  width.  Its  shores  are  rock-bound 
and  indented  with  beautiful  bays,  between  which  jut  out 
bold,  wooded  headlands,  backed  by  mountain  ranges. 
Newport,  at  the  head  of  the  lake,  is  reached  in  about 
four  hours  from  Montreal.  Here  the  tourist  will  find  an 
excellent  hotel,  the  Memphremagog  House,  of  which 
Col.  N.  Ripley  is  manager.  This  gentleman,  who  has 
made  a  record  for  himself  in  the  management  of  the 
Nantasket  Beach  Houses,  Mass.,  and  is  widely  known  as  a 
popular  and  efficient  manager,  has  this  season  taken  over 
the  House,  and  intends  making  Newport,  now  so  favorabh' 
known  as  a  place  of  summer  resort,  more  attractive  than 
ever  in  the  accommodation  and  comfort  which  will 
be    found    in    the    hotel.      The    house    is   beautifully 


All- Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       371 

situated  near  the  margin  of  the  lake,  and  commands 
charming  views  at  all  points.  It  has  a  length  of  180 
feet  and  height  of  three  stories,  with  lawn  in  front 
always  green,  and  laid  out  tastefully  in  walks.  It  con- 
tains about  three  hundred  bedrooms,  a  grand  dining- 
hall  with  a  seating  capacity  of  three  hundred  at  one 
time,  an  elegantly  furnished  parlour,  billiard,  reading, 
and  smoking  rooms,  hot  and  cold  water  baths,  electric 
bells  connecting  with  the  office.  All  the  furniture  and 
appointments  are  of  the  latest  style  of  modern  improve- 
ment, while  the  health  and  safety  of  guests  are  provided 
for  by  contrivances  for  ventilation,  and  for  protection 
against  fire.  The  cuisine  is  first  class,  and  the  utmost 
courtesy  and  attention  are  always  shown  by  the  officers 
of  the  house  and  the  attendants  to  guests.  Besides  the 
many  beautiful  trips  to  different  parts  of  the  lake,  there 
are  a  number  of  equally  beautiful  and  pleasant  drives 
within  easy  distance  of  the  Memphremagog  House,  some 
of  which  are  to  Indian  Point,  Trolling  Park,  Clyde  River 
Falls,  two  miles  distant,  Derby  Centre,  four  miles,  Cov- 
entry Falls,  (three  routes)  six  miles.  Bear  Mountain,  (fine 
view  of  lake),  seven  miles,  Beebe  Plain,  seven  miles, 
Stanstead,  ten  miles,  Fitch's  Bay,  P.  Q.,  (view  of  lake,) 
eleven  miles,  Bolton  Springs,  fourteen  miles,  and  Jay 
Peak,  (height  4,018  feet),  fifteen  miles.  From  this  point 
a  steamer  plies  daily  the  whole  length  of  the  Lake. 


JAY   PEAK 

should  be  visited  if  time  permit.  It  is  4000  feet  high, 
and  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  entire  range  of  the  Green 
Mountains,  the  Franconia  Range,  and  the  Adirondacks, 
with  Lake  Champlain  also.     The 


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372         Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

owl's  head 

rises  3000  feet  above  the  Lake,  and  commands,  in  fine 
weather,  an  extensive  view.  There  are  several  points  of 
interest  along  the  Lake  and  its  vicinity.  A  drive  to  Mount 
Orford,  the  highest  mountain  in  the  Province  of  Quebec, 
could  not  fail  to  give  pleasure.  On  the  southern  shore  of 
the  Lake  is  a  wonderful  natural  curiosity,  known  as  the 
Balance  Rock,  a  large  mass  of  granite  poised  on  a  narrow 
point. 


OWLS    HEAD — ON    TllJi   WEST    SHORE   OF    LAKE   MEMl'llREMAGOG. 

The  eastern  shore  of  the  Lake  in  this  vicinity  is  much 
improved  and  adorned  with  handsome  residences,  the 
finest  being  the  beautiful  summer  villa  of  Sir  Hugh  Allan, 
of  Steamship  fame.  Mount  Elephantis,  or  Sugar  Loaf 
Mountain,  is  seen  to  advantage  from  this  point. 

At  Newport,  connection  is  made  with  the  Connecticut 
and  Passumpsic  River  Road,  which  passes  through  the 
beautiful  Passumpsic  valley,  with  its  romantic  scenery  and 
thriving  towns  and  villages.     At  Wells  River,  the  tourist 


^X 


All-Roimd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.       373 


lEMAGOC 


will   take  the    Boston,    Concord,    Montreal,  and    White 
Mountains  Railway,  wliif^h  passes  through  some  of  the 


^#i»tr-* 


MOUNT  ORFORU — THE  HH'.HEST  MOUNTAIN  IN  I.GWKR  CANADA. 

finest  scenery  imaginable,  and  traverses  for  a  distance  of 
over  20  miles  the  shores  of  the  ever  charming  Lake  Win- 
nepesaukee.     Arriving  at  Concord,  the  tourist  takes  the 


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Boston,  Lowell  and  Concord  Railway  to  Nashua,  thence 
Lowell,  and  Nashua  Railroad  to  the  city  of  Boston. 


.'•r 


374       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


It 


Mf'^:- 


Ill-     •  -. 


At  Well's  River,  the  tourist  may  with  but  little  loss  of 
time  visit  the  whole  of  the  grand  scenery  of  the  White 
Mountains.  In  fact,  for  variety  of  scene,  comfort  in  tra- 
vel, and  other  advantages,  this  homeward  route  has  much 
to  commend  it  to  the  tourist. 

Tourists  for  New  York  pass  from  Wells  River  to  White 
River  Junction,  via  Connecticut  and  Passumpsic  River 
Railroad,  thence  to  South  Vernon  via  Central  Vermont. 
The  journey  is  then  continued  via  Connecticut  River  Rail- 


OWLS  HEAD  AND  MOUNT  ELEPHANTIS — AS  SEEN   FROM   THE   RAILROAD, 

NORTH   OF   NEWPORT. 

road,  through  Springfield,  and  via  New  Haven,  Hartford 
and  Springfield  to  New  York. 


h'  '■ 


LAKE  CHAMPLAIN  ROUTE. 

We  have  thought  it  desirable  to  add  to  our  Guide  a 
brief  sketch  of  one  of  the  most  interesting  and  attractive 
lines  of  travel  presented  in  the  whole  country.  It  is  ren- 
dered such  by  the  exquisite  and  varied  beauty  of  the 
scener)',  by  the  thrilling  historic  associations  impressed 


All'Rotmd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        375 


RAILROAD, 


upon  it,  by  the  rare  accommodation  and  comfort  of  its 
steamers  to  the  tourist,  and  by  being  the  most  direct  and 
eligible  route  between  Saratoga,  the  White  Mountains, 
Mount  Mansfield,  the  Adirondacks,  Montreal  and  Quebec. 
It  combines  many  decided  and  peculiar  advantages,  and 
prominent  among  these  is  the  pleasant  change  from  the 
dust  and  heat  of  the  cars  to  the  spacious  and  airy  stea- 
mers. Lake  Champlain  stretches  a  distance  of  120  miles, 
almost  due  north  and  south,  and  seems  designed  by  the 
hand  of  Nature  to  form  an  avenue  of  commerce  and  social 
intercourse.  Travellers,  who  have  widely  explored  the 
objects  of  interest  in  the  New  and  Old  World,  unite  in 
pronouncing  the  waters  and  environs  of  Champlain  the 
most  beautiful  and  impressive  the  eye  can  rest  upon. 
Varied  features  unite  to  complete  the  panorama.  The 
waters  of  the  Lake,  whether  reposing  in  a  calm,  or  surging 
under  the  power  of  a  tempest,  are  indescribably  beautiful ; 
but  this  attraction  is  infinitely  enhanced  by  the  islands, 
which,  in  varied  forms,  stud  its  bosom  ;  by  the  peninsu- 
las which  pierce  it ;  and  by  the  bold,  rocky  precipices  that 
hang  over  the  Lake.  The  shores  on  either  side  are 
impressive  and  beautiful :  now  a  long  line  of  rugged  cliffs, 
crowned  by  dense  forests,  appears,  and  now,  smiling  in 
luxurious  ranges  of  culture  and  elegance,  embellished  by 
farm  houses,  mansions  and  villages,  with  their  glittering 
spires.  All  this  scene  of  beauty  is  enhanced  by  the  dark 
framework  of  mountains,  that  impart  magnificence  to  the 
whole.  , 


CHAMPLAIN  AND  LAKE  GEORGE. 

Passengers   leaving   Montreal  by  the    Montreal   and 
Chambly  Division  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  will  cross 


l;«i 


376       All-Round  Route  and  Pamramic  Guide, 

the  mammoth  Victoria  Bridge,  and  are  rapidly  transported 
to  Plattsburg,  where  they  will  remain  over  night,  taking 
the  majestic  steamers  "  Vermont  "  and  "  Horicon,"  of  the 
Champlain  Transportation  Co.  next  morning,  which 
form  a  day  line  in  either  direction  passing  through  both 
lakes  going  south ;  they  leave  Plattsburgh  every  morning, 
Sundays  excepted,  via  Port  Kent.  Ausable  Chasm, 
Burlington  and  May  Landings,  reaching  Fort  Ticon- 
deroga,  at  noon  (dinner  after  arrival),  here  the  tourist 
can  take  an  observation  car  around  Mt.  Defiance  to 
Baldwin,  Lake  George,  steamers  to  Caldwell  where 
direct  connections  are  made  through  to  Saratoga,  Troy, 
and  Albany,  the  same  afternoon.  Passengers  who  desire 
to  go  through  both  lakes  should  leave  Montreal  by 
afternoon  train;  and  Saratoga,  Plattsburgh,  etc.,  tourists, 
leaving  these  points  above  referred  to,  do  not  pass  through 
Lake  Champlain,  but  reach  Saratoga  via  Lake  George 
the  same  afternoon  in  time  for  supper.  These  vessels  are 
models  of  elegance,  neatness,  and  comfort.  They  are 
regarded  as  second  to  none  on  the  continent  for  their 
power  and  safety,  the  perfect  accommodation  they  afford, 
their  spacious  staterooms  and  cabins,  and  the  sumptuous 
tables  they  spread. 

Having  reached  Plattsburg,  which  modern  events  have 
rendered  the  most  conspicuous  point  on  the  Lake,  the 
tourist  will  soon  discover  that  a  sojourn  of  more  than  a 
single  day  will  be  required  for  an  inspection  of  its  varied 
objects  of  interest.  The  military  works  made  memorable 
in  the  siege  of  Plattsburg  in  18 14,  will  claim  his  attention, 
nor  will  he  fail  to  make  a  pilgrimage  to  the  militar}' 
graves,  in  the  cemetery.  The  drives  are  deWghtful,  and  that 
to  the  Ausable  Chasm  must  not  in  any  event  be  neglected. 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.        377 


The  small  island  lying  to  the  left,  on  leaving  Plattsburg, 
was  named  St.  Michael  by  the  French  ;  it  was  occupied 
after  the  battle  of  1 8 14,  as  an  hospital,  and  was  then 
known  as  "  Hospital  Island,"  but  is  now  called  "  Crab 
Island."  We  immediately  after  enter  Valcour  Strait,  in 
which  the  first  action  in  1776  occurred,  between  the 
British  and  American  fleets.  The  tiny  islet  south  of 
Valcour,  tradition  asserts,  was  at  an  early  period  occupied 
successively  by  the  French  and  British  naval  officers,  for 
the  cultivation  of  vegetables  and  flowers,  and  it  still  bears 
the  name  of  "  Garden  Island."  Nearly  opposite  this 
island  is  situated  the  Delta  of  the  Ausable  River — a  sin- 
gularly beautiful  stream.  We  next  reach  Port  Kent,  an 
important  landing-place  for  the  rich  valley  of  the  Ausable 
River.  It  is  five  miles  from  the  flourishing  village  of 
Keeseville,  and  three  miles  from  the  Ausable  Chasm. 
This  wonderful  work  of  nature  attracts  yearly  increasing 
crowds  of  visitors.  It  has  been  truly  said  that  a  view 
of  this  scene  rewards  a  voyage  from  Europe  ;  the  pen  and 
the  pencil  equally  fail  in  attempts  to  adequately  delineate 
it, — to  be  appreciated,  it  should  be  deliberately  explored 
and  surveyed.  No  traveller  in  pursuit  of  pleasure,  or  de- 
sirous to  examine  the  phenomena  of  nature,  should  omit 
to  devote  a  sufficient  time  to  the  inspection  of  this  most 
interesting  spot.  It  is  formed  by  the  egress  of  the 
Ausable  River,  from  the  northern  end  of  the  Adirondack 
Mountains  into  Lake  Champlain.  The  river  has  carved 
a  channel  in  some  places  reaching  a  depth  of  two  hundred 
teet,  leaving  precipices  of  every  shape  towering  above  the 
dark  \i^ater.  At  one  place  the  river  is  compressed  to  a 
breadth  of  only  ten  feet.  The  waters  dash  madly  through 
their  confined  channel  and  are  precipitated  over  falls, 


it  .^  it 


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378       All-Rotmd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


AUSABI.K   CHA!-M, 


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All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       379 

» 
cascades,  and  rapids,  the  first  fall  being  twenty,  and  the 

second,  sixty  feet  high.     The  length  of  the  Chasm  proper 

is  nearly  two  miles,  and  its  sides  and  top  are  fringed  with 

cedars,  which  cast  a  sombre  shadow  over  it,  and  add  to 

its  mysterious  grandeur.     The  Ausable  Company  have 

made  extensive  improvements  to  facilitate  the  access  and 

easy  exploration  of  this  wonderful  gorge.     The  chasm 

may  be   reached,   via  Port    Kent   from    Burlington   or 

Plattsburg,  from  Keeseville,  or  the  depot  at  Peru ;    or 

a   particularly   pleasant   route    is   enjoyed   by  a   drive 

of  twelve   miles    from   Plattsburg    along   the    margin 

of  the  Lake.     The  Grand  Trunk  Railway  have  issued 

tickets  the  present  season,  permitting  passengers  to  stop 

off  at  Plattsburg,  and  visit  the  Chasm. 

Mount  Trembleau,  a  graceful  promontory  interesting 

as  being  the  last  spur  of  the  AU^hanies  upon  the  Lake, 

stands  immediately  south  of  Port  Kent     The  steamer 

now  enters  upon  the   widest   portion   of  the  lake.     A 

panoramic  view  is  here  unfolded,  which  blends,  in  rare 

felicity  and  beauty,  the  wildest  magnificence  with  the 

most   exquisite  loveliness ;  the  waters  spread  out  in  a 

broader  expanse  than  the  eye  can  easily  embrace,  and 

are   broken,  and  embellished  by  countless   islands  and 

headland.     Burlington  reposes  in  tranquil  beauty  in  the 

east,  and  beyond  are  delineated  the  outlines  of  the  Green 

Mountains,  with  the  profile  ofeach  summit  clearly  defined 

upon  the  horizon.     In  the  west.  Lion  Mountain  and  the 

broken   groups   of  the  Adirondacks  pierce  the  sky  in 

unnumbered  peaks.     At  times,  when  we  contemplate  the 

western  sky,  in  the  declining  day,  and  the  atmosphere  is 

radiant  with  the  beams  of  the  setting  sun,    the  scene 

becomes  grand  and  gorgeous  beyond  description, — earth 


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380        All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 

and  air,  mountains  and  lakes,  are  bathed  in  a  glorious 
and  universal  effulgence.  On  the  left,  near  the  Vermont 
shore,  stands  a  massive  lighthouse  which  is  erected  on  a 
reef,  and  seems  to  arise  from  the  bosom  of  the  water. 
Burlington  appears  to  peculiar  advantage  as  we  approach, 
and  is  conspicuous  among  New  England  cities  for  the 
beauty  of  its  location,  its  attractive  elegance,  and  high 
prosperity.  Many  of  its  public  edifices  and  private  man- 
sions are  among  the  finest  of  graceful  and  elegant 
architecture.  Almost  in  the  track  of  the  steamer,  in  her 
southern  route,  "  Rock  Dunder,"  a  high  conical  rock, 
rises  from  the  lake„  just  beyond  the  harbor  of  Burlington. 
This  was  probably  the  great  rock  "  Riggio,"  celebrated  in 
colonial  annals,  and  believed  to  have  been,  before  the 
eye  of  Champlain  rested  upon  the  beautiful  waters  of  the 
lake,  established  by  treaty  as  the  boundary  between  the 
Mohawks  and  their  hereditary  enemies,  the  Algonquins. 
Soon  after,  Shelburn  Bay  will  be  observed,  a  deep  in- 
dentation on  the  left  This  is  the  great  shipyard  of  the 
Steamboat  Co.,  where  they  construct  their  vessels,  and 
collect  their  condemned  hulks,  here  to  fall  into  decay. 
The  vast  form  of  Mount  Mansfield  towers  remotely  in 
the  north-east.  On  the  eastern  horizon,  the  tourist  will 
descry  a  lofty  peak  jutting  up  from  the  Green  Mountains. 
The  imagining  of  a  slight  fancy  will  delineate  the  "  King 
of  Beasts  "  reposing  amid  the  clouds,  his  erect  head,  his 
flowing  mane  and  huge  rocky  paws.  The  French  called 
the  mountain  the  "Lion  Couchant."  The  roui  little 
islets,  lying  nearly  at  the  cardinal  points,  designated  b}- 
the  French  the  "  Isles-des-quatre-venuts,"  are  now  known 
as  the  Four  Brothers.  Near  these  islands  Arnold  fought 
his  last  battle  with  Carlton.     At  the  foot  of  the  long 


'jJX- 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.        381 

peninsula,  on  the  western  shore,  now  named   Willsboro' 
Point,  is  the  mouth  of  an  important  stream,  the  Bouquet 
river,  embowered  by  trees  and   bushes.     This  was  the 
sight  of  Gilland's  colony   in    1765,    and   the   scene   of 
Burgoyne's  famous  Indian  Treaty.     Soon  after  we  pass 
the  beautiful  village  of  Essex.     Three  miles  beyond,  and 
near  the  Light  House  we  are  approaching,  is  a  remark- 
able  natural   curiosity.     This  is  "  Split   Rock,"   {Roche 
f endue  of  the  French),  a  naked  cone  separated  from  the 
mainland  by  a  narrow  fissure,  and  seems  to  have  been 
carved  from  the  rock  itself.     We  next  reach  the  pleasant 
village  of  Westport     Nine  miles  beyond,  we  stop  at  the 
thriving  village  of  Port  Henry,  where  the  immense  pro- 
duct of  the  iron  ore  beds  of  that  district  is  shipped  in 
every  direction.     In  the  passage  from  Essex  the  dark 
sierra  of  the   Green    Mountains   is   distinctly   revealed, 
tracing  a  marked  outline  upon  the  horizon,  while  dis- 
located spurs  of  the  Adirondacks  are  occasionally  pro- 
tected from  the  mountains  beetling  into  the  lake,  but 
their  rough  and  rugged  forms  do  not  betray  the  inex- 
haustible wealth  teeming  in  their  bosoms.     Directly  south 
of  Port  Henry,  across   Bullwagga  Bay,  is  situated  the 
Peninsula  of  Crown  Point.     Chimney  Point,  which  was 
occupied  by  the  French  in  1731,  and  the  ruins  of  Crown 
Point,  are  on  opposite  sides  of  the  lake,  and  separated 
by  a  narrow  passage ;  there  the  expanse  of  the  lake  ter- 
minates, and  the  long  river-like  channel,  which  continues 
to  Whitehall,  commences.     When  we  contemplate  the 
silence  and  repose  which  now  rests  upon  Crown   Point 
we  can  hardly  realize  that,   in  a  former  epoch,  it  v.as 
animated  by  the  pomp  and  glories  of  war,  or  that  it  was 
once  the  mart  of  a  large  commerce,  conducted  by  a  busy 


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382        All- Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 

population.  We  soon  pass  the  draw  of  the  railroad 
bridge,  a  work  of  great  importance  and  interest.  The 
tourist  will  next  perceive  the  venerable  ruins  of  old 
"  Fort  Ti — ,"  or  Ticonderoga  looming  up  on  a  high  rocky 
cliff  at  the  confluence  of  the  waters  of  Lakes  George  and 
Champlain.  Mount  Defiance  stands  on  the  opposite  of 
the  former,  and  Mount  Independence  on  the  eastern 
shore  of  the  Lake.  Ticonderoga  is  now  the  southern 
terminus  of  the  Steamboat  Line,  and  here  connection  is 
made  with  trains  to  Lake  George,  or  to  Whitehall, 
Saratoga,  and  southern  points. 

The  completion  of  the  railroad  line  between  Lakes 
George  and  Champlain  is  an  attractive  feature  of  the 
Lake  George  route,  as  a  tedious  stage  ride  is  avoided. 
There  are  two  daily  lines  of  steamers  each  way  through 
Lake  George  to  Caldwell. 

At  Ticonderoga,  the  tourist  can  take  passage  to  New 
York  by  the  Delaware  &  Hudson  Canal  Co.*ys  R.  R.  to 
Troy  and  Albany ;  thence  by  rail  or  river,  to  New  York. 

TO     LONG     BRANCH,    ROCKAWAY,     CONEY 

ISLAND,  MANHATTAN  BEACH,  OCEAN 

GROVE  AND  CAPE  MAY. 

''"'^'^OURISTS  desiring  to  visit  the  far-famed  resorts  of 

fl  the  Northern  New  Jersey  coast,  should  take  at  New 
York  the  New  York  and  Long  Branch  Division  of 
the  Central  Railroad  of  New  Jersey,  starting  from  the  foot 
of  Liberty  Street,  or  the  steamboat  from  Pier  No.  8  North 
River,  and  connecting  at  Sandy  Hook  with  the  New  Jersey 
Southern  Railroad  to  Philadelphia.  Admirable  facilities 
are  offered  by  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad  during  the  sum- 
mer season ;  three  express  trains,  with  parlor  cars  attached, 


■'V' 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.        383 


run  between  Philadelphia  and  Long  Branch  di  \  The 
route  is  by  the  New  York  Division  to  Monmouth  Junc- 
tion, thence  over  the  old  Freehold  and  Jamesbury  Rail- 
road to  sea  girt,  and  from  this  point  over  the  Centra' 
Railroad  of  New  Jersey  to  Long  Branch.  On  Saturday, 
an  extra  train  leaving  Philadelphia  after  noon  will  reach 
Long  Branch  (93  miles)  in  two  hours  and  sixteen  min- 
utes. The  service  employed  on  the  Long  Branch  Division 
is  the  best  that  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad  affords.  The 
Philadelphia  and  Reading  Railroad  Company,  lessee  of 
the  "  Bound  Brook  Route,"  also  runs  first-class  trains  from 
Philadelphia  directly  to  Long  Branch,  Ocean  Grove,  etc., 
via  Elizabeth  and  the  New  York  and  Long  Branch  Di- 
vision of  the  Central  Railroad,  especially  for  the  sea-shore 
business.  During  the  present  summer  the  Company  pro- 
poses to  increase  its  facilities. 

If  the  tourist  should  decide  to  leave  New  York  from 
Pier  No.  8,  North  River,  (foot  of  Rector  Street),  on  either 
of  the  first-class  steamers,  which  make  during  the  "season" 
some  six  or  seven  trips  daily  between  New  York  and 
Long  Branch,  he  will  first  view  the  many  beautiful  sights 
which  make  New  York  Bay  the  most  famous  harbor  in 
the  world.  On  the  left  we  see  Governor's  Island,  with  old 
Castle  William  in  the  foreground.  On  the  right  Gibbett 
and  Bedlois  Islands,  all  fortified  to  the  water's  edge.  Sail- 
ing on,  we  view  over  our  left  bow  the  Long  Island  shore, 
the  densely  wooded  heights  of  Bay  Ridge,  studded  with 
villas.  Right  ahead  are  the  stately  hills  of  Staten  Island, 
and  on  our  approach  to  the  **  Narrows,"  the  gate  to  the 
Atlantic  Ocean,  our  attention  is  called  to  Fort  Tomkins 
and  the  granite  walls  of  Fort  Richmond,  and  its  outlying 
batteries  on    our   right,  while  on   our  left  stands  Fort 


384        ^  \il- Round  Route  ami  Panoramic  Guide. 

Lafay  ;ttc,  grim,  silent,  and  isolated,  and  back  of  it  the  for- 
midable fortification  of  Fort  Hamilton.  Beyond  these, 
to  the  south-east,  is  Coney  Island,  and  still  further  on  we 
obtain  a  distant  view  of  Rockaway,  Entering  the  lower 
bay,  a  sort  of  miniature  ocean,  we  pass  incoming  and 
outgoing  vessels  of  all  sizes  and  of  all  nations,  from  the 
fisherman's  sloop  and  pleasure  yacht  to  the  stately 
Cunarder,  and  after  about  an  hour's  delightful  sail  from 
New  York  we  reach 


*  V 


SANDY  HOOK,  or  the  "HORSESHOE." 

one  of  the  finest  and  safest  harbors  in  the  world.  Here 
we  may  see,  at  times,  a  hundred  sail  anchored,  awaiting 
the  safety  signals  of  "  Old  Prob  "  to  venture  out  to  sea. 
In  a  few  moments  passengers  and  baggage  are  trans- 
ferred to  a  train  of  comfortable  cars,  and  we  are  soon 
speeding  through  a  dense  growth  of  lu.;jriant  cedars  and 
holly  on  the  Government  Reservation. 

Passing  Highlands,  Seabright,  Monmouth  Beach,  in 
one  and  a  half  hour's  time  from  New  York,  our  train  rolls 
into  the  depot  of  the  "  Brighton  of  America,"  and  durin 
President  Grant's  eight  years  of  office  popularly  known 
as  the  "  summer  capital." 


(T 


LONG  BRANCH. 

^ONG  Branch  is  one  of  the  most  fortunate,  as  far  as 
P  position,  accessibility  and  climate  are  concerned, 
W^  of  the  watering-places  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  aiul 
with  these  advantages  at  the  outset,  it  has  naturally  be- 
come one  of  the  most  famous  resorts  of  the  fashionable 
and  wealthy  society  of  New  York  and  Philadelphia.  As  a 


4- 


AH'Rotmd  Route  and  Panoramic  Giuik^        f0§ 


summer  retreat  it  is  less  expensive  than  Newport  and 
Saratoga,  and  quite  as  beautiful  as  either.  Society, 
there,  is  generally  more  democratic ;   fashion  decrees  no 

rigid  course  of  conduct, 
and  is  therefore  less  exact- 
ing of  her  votaries,  than 
at  many  other  resorts  in 
which  the  fashionable  world 
takes  no  greater  interest. 
The  site  of  Long  Branch 
is  upon  a  blufif  which  af- 
fords a  splendid  drive  over- 
looking the  sea.  The  cli- 
mate is  as  delightful  as  "that 
of  any  other  part  of  the 
New  Jersey  coast ;  which 
is  saying  quite  sufficient  in 
its  favour.  The  interior  of 
the  country  is  fertile  and 
pleasant.  There  are  no  salt 
marshes  or  sandy  plains  in 
the  neighborhood,  and  as 
the  hotel-keepers  say,  no 
mosquitoes  ;  in  fact,  Long 
Branch  is  as  well  suited  to 
rest  and  recreation  for  the 
weary,  as  to  the  pleasures 
and  pastimes  which  city 
folks  quite  as  often  seek  in 
going  to  the  country  or 
sea-shore  for  the  summer. 
These  natural  advantages  are  adjacent,  and  within  easier 

25 


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386        AU'Roiind  Route  ami  Panoramic  Guide, 

access  than  any  other  watering-place,  to  the  commercial 
centres — New  York,  and  Philadelphia.  The  remarkabl) 
safe  sea-bathing  facilities,  an  entire  immunity  from  an- 
noying insects  and  other  causes  combined,  have  elevated 
this  notable  resort  to  the  first  rank  in  the  country.  The 
'•  Bluff"  here  finds  no  parallel  upon  the  Atlantic  coast, 
extending,  as  it  does,  five  miles  continuously,  and  at  an 
elevation  of  not  less  than  twenty  feet  above  the  beach, 
from  which  it  rises  abruptly ;  the  plateau  behind  forms 
the  famous  "  ocean  avenue  "  drive,  and  constitutes  a  de- 
lightful promenade,  with  paths  and  broad  walks,  through 
green  sward  and  summer-houses  in  front  of  hotels  and 
cottages.  The  natural  healthfulness  of  Long  Branch  and 
its  surroundings  are  well-known.  Bounded  by  the  At- 
lantic ocean  on  the  east,  by  well-drained  and  fertile  farm- 
ing lands  on  the  south  and  west,  and  by  the  Shrewsbury 
river  and  its  branches  on  the  north,  supplied  with  pure 
water  by  its  securely  constructed  water-works,  it  possesses 
every  requisite  for  a  salubrious  locality.  A  dozen  first-class 
hotels  lining  the  bluff,  with  many  others  on  the  avenues 
leading  back  from  the  ocean,  give  ample  accommodation 
for  all  comers. 

Pleasure  Bay  is  the  most  delightful  boating  locality  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  Branch.  It  is  reached  by  a  short  drive 
of  a  mile  and  a  half,  and  presents  a  most  inviting  appear- 
ance to  the  devotee  of  aquatic  sports.  Oysters,  crabs, 
clam-bakes,  &c.,  are  here  served  up  in  a  style  of  cuisine 
that  is  seldom  equalled. 

The  drives  are,  beyond  question,  the  finest  of  any  sea- 
side resort,  and  so  numerous  and  varied  that  one  can 
select  a  different  route  for  almost  every  day  in  the 
"season,"  without  their  becoming  in  the  least  monotonous. 


•:-.'v 


All- Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.        387 


One  of  the  attractive  features  of  the  "  Branch  "  during  the 
months  of  July  and  August  is  the  races,  under  the  direc- 
tion of  the  Monmouth  Park  Association,  on  their  track  at 
Occanport.  It  is  by  far  the  best  in  America,  being  a  full 
mile,  with  wide  sweeping  turns,  and  visible  in  every  por- 
tion from  the  grand  stand  ;  its  homestretch  is  a  straight 
dash  of  a  quarter  mile,  and  cannot  be  equalled.  It  affords 
plenty  of  room  for  the  large  field  of  horses  for  which 
Long  Branch  meetings  are  famous.         ' 

The  tourist,  if  destined  for  Philadelphia,  will  continue 
on  the  train  from  Long  Branch,  passing  through  many 
pleasant  villages  to  Camden  (opposite  Philadelphia),  with- 
out change  of  cars.  During  the  summer  season,  especi- 
cally,  this  line  of  travel,  between  New  York  and  Phil- 
adelphia, will  be  found  delightful.  We  will  now  call  the 
tourists  attention  to  a  few  of  the  most  popular  summer 
resorts  in  the  vicinity  of  these  cities. 

LONG  ISLAND. 

|T  is  not  long  since  the  opinion  was  given  to  the  world 
that  the  interior  of  Long  Island  contained  nothing 
of  greater  interest  to  the  tourist  than  heaps  of  desert 
sand,  and  forests  of  low  shrub-trees  left  unfinished  by  the 
Creator  and  neglected  by  man.  The  Island  was  recog- 
nized a  few  years  ago  as  a  geographical  fact,  and  that 
was  all.  Its  northern  shores  were  notable  chiefly  as  the 
boundary  of  the  waters  of  the  Sound,  while  its  southern 
ones  had  become  familiar  to  newspaper  readers  through 
terrible  and  frequent  marine  disasters.  The  past  two 
years,  however,  have  worked  a  wonderful  change  in  the 
fortunes  of  Long  Island.  Thousands  of  people  have  ex- 
plored it  from  end  to  end  ;  tourists  have  found  there  all 


388       All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


'1      ,. 


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the  delights  of  pure  country  air  and  the  finest  beaches  in 
the  country ;  artists  in  exploring  its  coasts  have  found 
an  inexhaustible  field  for  sketching,  while  business  men 
have  just  come  to  a  realization  of  its  south-western 
shores,  their  accessibility  to  New  York,  and  the  conveni- 
ent and  delightful  escape  they  afford  from  the  enervating 
atmosphere  of  the  over-heated  city.  The  unsavory  re- 
putation of  old  Coney  Island  is  too  recent  a  memory 
soon  to  be  forgotten,  and  the  growth  of  the  Island  dur- 
ing the  past  two  years,  until  it  has  become  the  foremost 
of  American  watering-places,  is  the  more  remarkable,  be- 
cause it  is  unparalleled  in  the  history  of  our  summer  re- 
sorts. The  various  railroads  and  steamboat  lines  by 
which  the  Island  was  reached,  attested,  on  several  days 
of  last  August,  their  capacity  for  moving  more  than  200,- 
ooo  passengers  from  New  York  to  Coney  Island  be- 
tween sunrise  and  sunset  The  small  island  was  over- 
run by  multitudes  of  people,  and  those  who  could  find  a 
seat  on  the  hotel  piazzas,  Bauer's  platform,  or  the  Iron 
Pier,  were  more  fortunate  than  a  good  many  others,  who, 
for  the  want  of  a  resting-place  were  obliged  to  move 
about  with  the  restless  multitude,  animated  only  by  a 
common  purposelessness.  The  hotel-keepers  have  learned 
several  valuable  lessons  by  the  experience  of  last  sum- 
mer, and  the  travellers  of  the  present  one  are  likely  to 
benefit  by  it  The  imperfect  drainage,  which  was  a  sub- 
ject of  continued  complaint  last  year,  has  been  overcome, 
it  is  confidently  promised,  by  the  erection  of  a  number  of 
hermetically  sealed  tanks,  which  will  be  cleared  as  often 
as  required  and  by  a  process  of  chemical  disinfection, 
which  has  been  tried  with  success  in  the  South. 
The  Brighton  Beach  Pavilion  has  been  enlarged,  and 


»v' 


k:-v<  ■•'. 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,       389 

the  platform  in  front  of  the  West  Brighton  Beach  Hotel 
has  been  extended  160  feet  into  the  sea.  Paul  Bauer's 
Platform,  near  the  Iron  Pier  will  provide  seats  for  about 
15,000  persons,  and  the  contiguous  band-stand  will  be 
occupied  in  the  afternoon  and  evening  by  a  first-class 
band.  One  of  the  most  noticeable  improvements  at 
Coney  Island  is  a  lawn  and  flower-garden,  which  now 
extends  several  hundred  feet  east  from  the  Brighton 
Beach  Hotel,  covering  what  was  formerly  a  wide  tract 
of  marsh-land..  Another  railroad  has  been  added  to  the 
traveling  facilities.  The  New  York  and  Brighton 
Beach  Railroad,  from  Locust  Grove  to  Coney  Island, 
has  a  double  steel  track,  and  is  thoroughly  equipped 
with  rolling-stock.  The  time  from  New  York  City  to 
Brighton  Beach,  over  the  new  road,  is  only  twenty- 
seven  minutes.  The  Brighton  Railroad,  from  Hunter's 
Point  and  Flatbush  avenue,  Brooklyn,  to  the  Brighton 
Hotel ;  Manhattan  Railroad,  from  Bay  Ridge  and  Long 
Island  City  to  the  Manhattan  Beach  Hotel ;  the  Prospect 
Park  and  Coney  Island  Railroad,  from  Greenwood  to  the 
West  Brighton  Beach ;  the  Sea  Beach  Railroad,  from 
Bay  Ridge  to  Sea  Beach  Palace,  and  the  Brooklyn,  Bath 
and  Coney  Island  Railroad  from  Locust  Grove  to  Coney 
Island,  now  oflfer  first-class  facilities  for  summer  travel 
about  the  first  of  June.  The  flotilla  of  steamboats  running 
between  Coney  Island  and  New  York  will  begin  their 
half-hourly  trips  early  in  the  season.  There  will  be 
an  independent  line  of  steamers  during  the  summer 
running  between  Coney  Island  and  Long  Branch ;  and 
another,  making  hourly  trips  between  Rockaway  and 
Coney  Island.  .  ;     ;  , 


390       All- Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 


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ROCKAWAY, 

claiming,  among  other  advantages,  an  infinitely  finer 
beach  and  purer  atmosphere  than  Coney  Island,  and 
possessing  the  largest  hotel  in  the  world,  as  well  as 
the  new  railroad,  which  brings  New  York  within  thirty 
minutes  ride  of  the  Beach,  takes  a  large  share  of 
pleasure  excursionists  from  New  York  during  the  summer 
season.  The  growth  of  this  place  might  be  likened  to 
that  of  Coney  Island,  though  in  no  way  compared  with 
it.  But  it  would  be  difficult  to  exaggerate  the  possibilities 
of  the  present  season,  since  the  Rockaway  Beach  Improve- 
ment Company  have  taken  that  little  neck  of  sand  under 
their  fostering  care.  It  was  not  so  very  long  ago  that 
Rockaway  was  a  neglected  waste  of  land,  covered  here 
and  there  with  a  starving  underbrush  of  trees  and  shrubs, 
while  Far  Rockaway,  less  than  five  miles  further  up  the 
coast,  was  a  fashionable  resort,  second  only  to  Saratoga. 
Rockaway  was  a  barren  desert  which  no  one  cared  to 
explore,  as  late  as  i860,  when  one  James  Remsen  bought 
all  the  sand  heaps  west  of  Far  Rockaway,  some  1 2,000 
acres  in  all,  and  paid  $500  for  them  in  the  hope  that 
they  might  some  day  be  worth  something.  The  mill  of 
time  was  a  slow  one  in  his  case,  but  Mr.  Remsen's  time 
came  in  spite  of  those  who  called  him  crazy,  and  two 
years  ago  last  spring  the  Rockaway  Beach  Improvement 
Company  paid  nearly  $200,000  for  the  neck  of  land  on 
which  their  new  hotel  has  been  constructed.  The  new 
hotel  is  seven  stories  in  height,  with  a  facade  1,140  feet, 
or  about  400  windows  on  the  sea.  It  is  constructed  of  yel- 
low pine  and  California  red  wood,  the  first  floor  be'  ig 
finished  wholly  in  panel  work,  including  the  ceilings.   The 


ijj*.J!P*., 


All- Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide.        391 

piazza  extends  on  the  front  the  entire  length  of  the  hotel, 
1,140  feet  by  about  100  feet  in  width,  and  three  hundred 
feet  distant  from  the  surf  at  high  tide.  The  hotel  contains 
about  1,200  rooms,  or  accommodation  probably  for  1,600 
persons,  and  the  dining-room  can  seat  6,000  persons.  The 
new  railroad  (New  York,  Woodhaven  and  Rockaway) 
from  Long  Island  City  (Hunter's  Point),  and  Flatbush 
Avenue  (Brooklyn),  touches  at  Woodhaven,  on  the 
Long  Island  Railroad,  and  thence  takes  an  air  line  to 
Rockaway  Beach,  crossing  Jamaica  Bay  by  a  trestle-work 
about  five  miles  in  length.  The  distance  of  about  six- 
teen miles  is  traversed  in  thirty  minutes,  trains  arriving 
within  a  stone's  throw  of  the  new  hotel,  which 
stands  at  the  western  terminus  of  Rockaway  Beach, 
fairly  within  sight  of  the  Coney  Island  sands.  The 
Rockaway  Beach  Improvement  Company  operate,  in 
conjunction  with  the  new  railroad  and  hotel,  a  special 
line  of  steamers  to  New  York,  trips  being  made  as  often 
as  the  emergencies  require,  with  a  landing  at  their  own 
pier  in  Jamaica  Bay,  immediately  in  the  rear  of  the  hotel. 
The  new  iron  pier  at  Rockaway  Beach  extends  about 
1,260  feet  into  the  sea,  the  starting  point  being  from  the 
Beach  about  half  a  mile  above  the  point.  In  addition 
to  the  new  hotel,  there  is  at  Rockaway  Beach,  the  Sea- 
side House,  which  has  been  enlarged  to  accommodate 
300 guests;  the  Surf  House  (100),  East  End  (400),  Atlas 
(250)  Sea-side  Pavilion  (150),  Hammill's  Hotel  (300), 
and  a  number  of  smaller  houses  where  one  can  enjoy 
all  the  comforts  of  life,  at  as  reasonable  prices  as  in 
New  York.  The  Long  Island  Railroad  will  run  express 
trains  during  the  summer  to  Rockaway  Beach  and  Far 
Rockaway,  via  Valley  Stream,  the  distance  to  Rockaway 


r:s^..A» 


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392        Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide. 

being  less  than  seven  miles  longer  than  by  the  new  road. 
Greenport,  a  quiet  little  seaport  town  at  the  eastern 
terminus  of  the  Long  Island  Railroad,  will  take  a  pro- 
minent place  this  season  among  Long  Island  resorts 
through  a  new  summer  route  to  Newport,  via  Greenport, 
Express  trains  will  leave  Long  Island  City  and  Brooklyn 
about  noon,  arriving  at  Greenport(94  miles)  in  two 
hours  and  a  quarter,  connecting  there  with  the  steamer 
for  Block  Island,  Newport,  Martha's  Vineyard  and  Nan- 
tucket The  sea  journey  to  Newport  occupies  about 
four  hours.  Returning,  the  boat  will  leave  Newport  in 
the  morning,  connecting  with  a  fast  express  at  Greenport, 
the  passengers  arriving  at  New  York  after  a  six  hours 
and  a  half  journey  from  Newport  The  summer  arrange- 
ment of  trains  on  the  Long  Island  Railroad  will  probably 
provide  for  three  express  trains  each  way,  making  only 
one  stop  between  Long  Island  City,  Brooklyn  and 
Greenport  Steamers  will  make  daily  trips  across  the 
Sounds  to  New  London  and  New  Saybrook,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Connecticut  River,  and  towards  the  interior 
the  eye  is  greeted  with  green  fields  and  prosperous  West 
Jersey  farms,  a  striking  contrast  to  the  wastes  of  sand  or 
unwholesome  marshlands  which  summer  travellers  have 
so  often  to  overlook  in  approaching  the  sea-shore.  Rail- 
road trains  whirl  their  passengers  through  the  prett)- 
village,  giving  glimpses  here  and  there  of  hotels  great  and 
small,  spacious  country  residences,  and  long  shady  avenues 
bordered  by  cosy  cottages.  At  length  the  passenger  is 
set  down  at  the  West  Jersey  Station,  and  the  clear  blue 
waters  of  the  Atlantic  tumble  in  on  the  white  beach  fairly 
at  his  feet  From  tie  broad  walk,  which  extends  along 
the  beach  from  the  railroad  station  to  the  Stockton  and 


**■  k^-t*- 


Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        393 


Congress  Hall  hotels,  a  fair  idea  of  the  town  may  be  had. 
It  is  a  bright  picture,  pervaded  with  an  air  of  refinement 
and  prosperity  and  full  of  hope  for  the  pleasure-seeker. 
The  fire  which  destroyed  so  large  a  portion  of  Cape  May, 
in  the  winter  of  1878-79,  was  speedily  repaired.  New 
and  finer  hotels  rose  from  the  ashes  of  the  old  ones,  and 
were  in  readiness  even  by  the  opening  of  the  season  of 
1880  ;  hence  the  aspect  of  Cipe  May  from  the  beach  is 
one  of  prosperity  and  life  ;  the  new  buildings  give  the  im- 
pression of  a  newly  created  watering-place,  while  the  con- 
tiguous grounds  show  the  advantage  of  the  care  and  atten 
tion  that  have  been  bestowed  upon  them  for  years.  The  two 
largest  hotels  on  the  island  are  the  Stockton  and  Congress 
Hall  (reconstructed  for  the  summer  season),  both  of  which 
have  accommodation  for  about  800  guests,  and  are,  in 
every  sense,  first-class  hotels.  The  facilities  for  reaching 
Cape  May  have  been  vastly  improved,  and  if  the  season 
is  as  prosperous  as  it  promises  to  be,  the  West  Jersey 
Railroad  will  need  all  the  advantages  of  its  excellent 
rolling-stock  and  fine  road-bed  to  meet  the  Vmands 
made  upon  them.  The  summer  arrangement  of  trains  on 
the  West  Jersey  will  probably  provide  for  express  trains 
leaving  Philadelphia  at  convenient  hours,  both  in  the 
morning  and  in  the  afternoon.  The  time  between  Phila- 
delphia and  Cape  May  (81  miles)  is  only  two  hours, 
Returning,  express  trains  will  leave  Cape  May  probably 
about  the  same  time  during  the  day  as  last  season.  In 
addition  to  these  there  will  be  an  accommodation  train 
each  way.  The  rolling-stock  of  the  West  Jersey  has  been 
increased  by  a  large  number  of  new  summer  excursion 
cars,  built  on  the  admirable  model  of  the  new  cars  used 
in  the  fast  express  service  of  the  New  York  Division  of 


I' 


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394       All-Ronnd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


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the  Pennsylvania  Railroad.  One  of  the  pleasantest  routes 
to  Cape  May  during  the  summer  months  is  by  the  large 
excursion  steamer  '•  Republic,"  which  will  leave  Race 
Street  Wharf  early  in  the  morning,  and,  after  a  pleasant 
trip  down  the  Delaware,  reaches  Cape  May  I'oint  about 
noon.  A  narrow  gauge  runs  to  Cape  May  City,  five 
miles  distant.  Leaving  the  Point  again  about  three 
o'clock  the  "  Republic,"  arrives  at  Philadelphia  early  in 
the  evening.  Baltimore  sends  to  Cape  May  quite  as 
large  a  portion  of  her  fashionable  world  as  comes  from 
Philadelphia.  The  society  at  the  Island  is  bright,  animat- 
ed, refined  and  hospitable,  as  it  can  afford  to  be,  for  the 
visitors  at  Cape  May  belong  to  the  best  class  of  summer 
travellers.  The  "  season  "  opens  at  the  Stockton  Hotel, 
in  June  every  summer. 

Atlantic  City,  situated  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  sixty 
miles  south-east  of  Philadelphia,  has  a  resident  population 
during  the  summer  months  slightly  exceeding  that  of 
Cape  May,  but  the  transient  visitors  in  the  height  of  the 
season  fairly  outstrip  that  of  any  watering-place  south  of 
Coney  Island.  It  was  opened  to  the  public  a  little  more 
than  a  quarter  of  a  century  ago,  and  since  then  it  is 
indebted  for  its  rapid  growth  and  steadily  increasing 
popularity  to  an  unusually  fine  climate,  both  in  winter 
and  summer,  a  good  beach,  generous  hotel  accommoda- 
tions, and  the  admirable  facilities  the  Camden  and 
Atlantic  Railroad  have  always  offered  for  going  there. 
The  adjacent  coast  is  broken  into  many  inlets  and  bays, 
which  now  afford  the  best  opportunities  for  boating,  fish- 
ing and  gunning,  sports  that  bring  hundreds  of  visitors  to 
Atlantic  City  every  year.  The  improvements  made 
last  season  are   likely  to   work    a    wonderful     change 


:;:^: 


All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        395 


in  the  fortunes  of  Atlantic  City — a  change  that  was 
anticipated  in  the  scores  of  new  buildings  which  were 
constructed  there.  In  addition  to  the  Camden  and 
Atlantic  Railroad,  and  the  Philadelphia  and  Atlantic 
City  Narrow  Gauge  Railroad,  which  transported 
thousands  to  and  from  the  sea-shore  every  day 
of  last  season,  the  West  Jersey  Railroad  opened  last 
summer  a  new  railroad  to  Atlantic  City,  from  Camden, 
by  way  of  Newfield,  a  station  on  the  West  Jersey  (Cape 
May)  Railroad,  about  thirty  miles  from  Philadelphia.  The 
new  railroad  opened  in  1880,  from  Newfield  to  Atlantic 
City  is  thirty-four  miles  in  length,  laid  with  steel  rails 
and  on  a  road-bed  prepared  for  the  fastest  express  trains 
The  new  railroad,  which  is  about  four  miles  longer  from 
Philadelphia  than  the  Camden  and  Atlantic,  reaches 
Atlantic  City,  at  the  junction  of  Atlantic  and  Baltic 
avenues,  the  station  fronting  on  both  streets.  Trains  leave 
Camden  (from  Philadelphia  by  Market  street  ferry)  for 
Atlantic  City  over  the  West  Jersey  Railroad  at  con- 
venient hours  during  the  day,  and  they  run  five  fast  ex- 
press trains  over  the  new  railroad  between  Philadelphia 
and  Atlantic  City  every  day.  One  stop  is  made  at  New- 
field,  and  the  running  time  does  not  exceed  one  hour 
and  a  halt  On  the  other  hand,  the  Camden  and  Atlantic 
Railroad,  is  well  equipped  with  new  rolling-stock,  a  well 
ballasted  track,  has  a  new  and  large  station  at  Camden, 
and  a  new  iron  ferry-boat  crossing  the  Delaware  from 
their  station  at  the  Vine  street  wharf  to  Camden,  and 
will  open  this  season,  better  prepared  than  ever,  to  meet 
the  tide  of  summer  travel.  Four  express  trains  run  to 
Atlantic  City  daily,  without  a  stop.  The  running  time 
is  less  than  ninety  minutes.     The  cheapest  route  to  the 


If;-'  '■ 

f'.'v     * 


ttf'i 


'm 


396      All-Round  Route  and  Pattoramic  Guide, 

sea-shore  is  by  the  Narrow  Gauge  Railroad  from  Cam- 
den. Express  trains  run  each  way  daily.  A  multitude 
of  travelers  were  acco  modated  by  this  road  last  season  ; 
and  at  the  popular  excursion  rates  offered,  the  luxury  of 
a  trip  to  the  sea-shore,  and  a  bath  in  the  surf,  is  within 
reach  of  the  smallest  purse. 

Anglesea,  or  Five  Mile  Beach,  a  few  miles  above  Cape 
May  on  the  Jersey  coast  was  last  season  taken  in  hand 
by  an  improvement  company  who  now  endeavor  to  bring 
the  many  advantages  of  the  place  into  public  notice.  A 
new  narrow  gauge  railroad  will  connect  Anglesea  with  the 
West  Jersey  Railroad  track  near  Cape  May  Court  House. 

Barnegat  Inlet,  on  the  coast  midway  between  Long 
Branch  and  Atlantic  City,  has  become  famous  through 
its  blue  fish.  The  arrival  of  the  first  school,  generally 
about  the  last  of  the  month  of  May,  is  the  signal  for  hun- 
dreds of  sportsmen  and  business  men  to  pack  off  for  the 
sea-shore.  The  route  from  New  York  is  by  the  New 
Jersey  Southern  Railroad  to  Barnegat,  by  way  of  Man- 
chester, and  from  Philadelphia  the  sportsmen  may  go  by 
the  Pennsylvania  Railroad  from  Camden  to  Whitings, 
and  from  this  point  by  the  Tuckerton  Railroad  to 
Barnegat 

"  Beach  Haven  is  another  of  the  resorts  on  the  Jersey 
coast  which  have  sprung  into  popularity  within  a  few 
years.  It  is  situated  on  Long  Beach,  a  small  sandy  pro- 
montory running  parallel  with  the  Jersey  coast  and 
separated  from  it  by  Little  Egg  Harbor  Inlet  This 
inlet  affords  every  opportunity  for  boating  and  fishing 
without  the  danger  of  the  open  sea  and  powerful  surf 
which  rolls  in  on  this  exposed  coast  Across  the  pro- 
montory the  surf  may  be  seen  in  all  its  glory.     Beach 


/-■V 


All'Rotmd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        397 

Haven  contains  four  well-kept  hotels,  easily  accommodat- 
ing a  thousand  visitors.  Steamers  connect  Beach  Haven 
with  Barnegat,  and  t'.i^nce  the  route  to  the  north  and 
west  is  the  same. 

The  Long  Beach  Hotel  is  again  this  year  under  the 
management  of  Mr.  R.  H.  Southgate,  so  favorably  known 
for  his  management  of  Congress  Hall,  Saratoga,  and  the 
Windsor  Hotel,  Montreal.  A  number  of  cottages  have 
been  erected  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Hotel  for 
families,  and  immediately  on  their  completion  were  taken 
by  fashionable  people  ;  and  several  New  York  Clubs 
have  also  built  summer  quarters  on  the  Beach.  In  fine, 
everything  points  to  Long  Beach,  and  the  Hotel,  be- 
coming the  most  fashionable  resorts  on  Long  Island. 

Ocean  Grove,  six  miles  above  Long  Branch,  is  a  reser- 
vation controlled  by  ministers  and  members  of  the 
Methodist  Episcopal  Church  of  New  Jersey  and  Penn- 
sylvania. It  is  resorted  to  during  the  summer  by  quite  a 
number  of  ecclesiastics,  and  christian  families.  No  in- 
toxicating drinks  are  permitted  on  the  grounds,  and  boat- 
ing, bathing  and  drinking  are  strictly  prohibited  on  the 
Sabbath.  During  the  Camp  Meeting  season,  the  village 
is  crowded  to  its  utmost  capacity,  many  of  the  visitors 
living  in  tents  and  other  temporary  structures  upon  the 
beach  and  in  the  adjoining  groves.  The  passenger  traffic 
at  this  point,  during  the  summer  season,  is  larger  than  to 
any  other  resort  on  the  New  Jersey  coast,  between  Long 
Branch  and  Atlantic  City. 

AsHBURY  Park  and  Ocean  Beach  adjoin  Ocean 
Grove,  the  one  on  the  north,  the  other  on  the  south, 
and  are  both  largely  patronized. 


I  *  ■    ' 


If    ' 


•>■■■     ' 


t.f.  , ' 


If* 


U.'V'.': 


398        All-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 

NEW  YORK. 

Here  we  are  again  at  New  York.  But,  before 
losing  ourselves  among  its  1,500,000  inhabitants,  we  raise 
our  hat  to  the  departing  reader,  with  the  hope  that  the 
trip  here  ended  has  been  a  pleasant  one.  "  On  different 
senses,  different  objects  strike  ;"  but  we  think  there  has 
been  something  of  a  sort  to  please  all.  Men  of  every 
pursuit,  and  of  every  variety  of  taste,  will  have  been  able 
to  indulge,  each  in  his  peculiar  hobby  ;  for,  although  the 
extent  of  ground  traversed  may  not  seem  so  large  as 
otherwise  might  appear,  from  the  similarity  of  race  every- 
where encountered,  yet,  from  the  free  expression  given  to 
thought,  and  the  amount  of  enterprise,  social  and  indivi- 
dual, everywhere  met  with,  there  is,  perhaps,  not  a  better 
field  open  for  examining  the  working  merits  of  the  dif- 
ferent schemes  which  have  been  from  time  to  time  pro- 
posed as  affording  solutions  of  the  important  questions  of 
national  education,  workmen's  associations,  co-operative 
labour. 

To  the  political  economist  there  has  been,  therefore, 
abundant  subject  for  fruitful  study  ;  and  the  prospects  of 
an  ever-increasing  wealth,  lately  opened  by  the  discovery 
of  rich  mineral  veins,  in  territory  hitherto  regarded  as  un- 
productive, will  afford  the  theorist  ground  on  which  to 
work,  in  conducting  his  speculations  on  the  great  future 
reserved  for  this  continent 

To  the  geologist  no  tract  of  country  could  well  be 
found  more  replete  with  interest  than  that  we  have  tra- 
versed. He  has  been  brought  face  to  face  with  nature  in 
her  sublimest  aspects  ;  he  has  been  admitted,  as  it  were, 
to  view  the  arcana  of  her  great  workshop,  and  the  vast 


All-Ronnd  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide,        399 

cuttings  scooped  out  by  the  powerful  force  exerted 
through  successive  ages  on  a  limestone  formation,  by  a 
stupendous  power  like  Niagara  as  well  as  the  tiny  "striae  " 
or  ice  grooves,  that  to  this  day  mark,  with  unerring  line,  the 
course  of  the  Northern  glaciers,  as,  in  ages  still  more  re- 
mote, they  ground  down  the  greater  portion  of  the 
North  American  continent. 

The  artist  and  sportsman  have  also  no  reason  to  com- 
plain of  the  bill  of  fare  offered  for  their  special  enjoy- 
ment. The  former  could  hardly  study  in  a  better  school 
than  that  he  has  just  left — a  school  that  has  produced 
more  than  one  conscientious  interpreter  of  its  own 
peculiar  ^^ genre''  And  the  latter  will,  on  his  journey 
round,  have  been  able  to  inspect,  the  spoils  of  many  a 
game-bag  and  fishing  basket. 

The  student  of  life  and  character  will  have  occasion  to 
notice  many  novelties ;  and  the  strange  mixture  of  the 
two  languages  in  Canada,  by  the  ^^  habitantSy'  as  they  are 
called,  will  astonish  his  ideas  of  euphony.  His  pure 
French,  if  such,  perchance,  he  can  command,  will  not  un- 
frequently  prove  "  caviare  "  to  these  swarthy  folks,  but, 
perhaps,  nothing  will  have  more  effect  on  him  than  the 
first  sight  obtained  of  the  Red  Man,  as  he  appears  in  the 
streets  of  our  cities  in  this  the  19th  century — "  O,  quantum 
mutatus  ab  illo,''  he  will  exclaim,  from  that  romantic- 
looking  creature  clothed  in  a  scanty  allowance  of  "  fig- 
leaf,  "  who  used  to  be  served  up  for  the  delectation  of  our 
infantile  minds  in  the  pages  of  old  Peter  Parley — when 
he  sees  the  Indian  Chief  of  his  boyhood,  so  strangely 
modified  by  the  Darwinian  system  of  Natural  Selection, 
into  a  smooth-faced,  oily-haired,  individual,  clad  in  paper 
collar,  Eureka  shirt,  and  extensive  wide-awake. 


400        Ail-Round  Route  and  Panoramic  Guide, 


m 


We  have  endeavored  to  describe  faithfully  and  correctly 
the  routes  over  which  we  have  passed  in  company.  There 
are  doubtless  some  whose  knowledge  of  particular  points 
named  is  greater  than  that  possessed  by  us,  and  such, 
if  combined  with  those  already  given,  would  greatly 
enhance  the  value  of  our  Guide  ;  we,  therefore,  ask  infor- 
mation from  those  best  able  to  afford  it,  and  we  promise 
that,  so  far  as  the  limits  of  the  work  may  permit,  the  same 
shall  be  given  in  future  editions  to  our  friends,  the 
traveling  public.  At  New  York,  the  Metropolis  of 
America,  the  traveler  will  have  a  choice  of  routes 
for  the  homeward  trip,  which  we  hope  will  be  safely  ac- 
complished. And  as  the  cares  of  life  are  once  more 
taken  up,  and  the  avocations  resumed  which  for  the 
time  were  left  behind,  may  renewed  health  and  vigor,  as 
the  result  of  the  pleasant  journey  round,  give  zest  to  the 
performance  of  those  duties,  which  will  be  sweetened 
with  the  pleasant  memories  of  the  scenes  which  have 
been  visited  and  the  wonders  and  beauties  of  nature 
which  have  been  viewed.  We  will  now  lift  our  hat  to  the 
departing  tourist,  whom  we  have  conducted  in 
making  the  all-round  trip,  and  bid  him  a  temporary 
farewell,  hoping  to  renew  his  acquaintance  in  traversing  a 
larger  and  more  extended  route  next  year.     "> 


ADIEU. 


|4>  V  »• 


INDEX 

TO 

CITIES,  TOWNS  AND  PLACES  OF  INTEREST. 


fAUK 

Afton.  N.  Y 51 

Albany,  N.Y 111-114 

Albion.  Biioh 163 

Alburgh    Springs, 

Vt 367-358 

Alexandria     Bay, 

N.Y 213 

Ann  Arbor,  Mioh..  162 

Angleaeu,  N.  J  •  • .  ■  -'{96 
Anthony's     Note, 

N.Y 18 

Arethusan  Streams, 

Mass      i^ 

A8hburyPark.N.J.  ;W 

Ashley  Lake,  Mass  39 

Atlantic  City,  N.J.  394 
Audubon    Park, 

N.Y 11 

Ausable    Chasm, 

N.Y 377 

fiainbridRe.  N.Y..  51 

Ball  Head  Cliff,  Me  334 
Balance     Rook, 

Mass 39 

Ball8ton,N.Y 46 

Barnegat  Inlet,  N.  J.  ^^96 

Barry  town,  N  J.. . .  27 

Batiscan,  Que.   ■  267 

Battle  Creek,  Mich  163 

Beach  Haven,  N.J.  396 

Beacon  Hill,  N.Y..  22 

Boiiuharnois,  Que.  229 
Belceil    Mountain, 

Que 262 

Belleville,  Ont 211 

Bellows  Falls,  Vt..  368 
Berry  Pond,  Mass.  39 
Binghamton,  N.Y..  47 
Bloody  Pond.  N.Y.  108 
Boston,  Mass  •  337-350 
Buterbergh  Moun- 
tain, JS.Y 21 

Brandon,  Vt 368 

Breakneck,  N.Y..  21 
Brock's  Monument, 

Ont....           ....  199 

Brockville,Ont.  ..  221 

26 


PA  OK 

Bunker's      Hill, 

Boston ,  Mass ....  349 
Burlington,  Vt. . .  .358-360 
Burning      Spring, 

Niagara  Falls.,  .137-1% 
Buttermilk    Falls, 

N.Y 

Caoouna,  Que 

Caledonia  Springs, 

Ont 

Caldwell's  Landing, 

N.Y 

Camp  Douglas,  Wis. 
Cape  Eternity,  Que. 
Cape  May,  N.J  . . . 
Cape  Trinity,  Que. 
Carbondiile,  N.Y. 
Carillon,  Que.. 
Catskilli^'allH.N.Y. 
Catskill  Mountains 

N.Y 

Caughnawaga,  Que 

Cedars.  Que 

Central       Bridge, 

N.Y   

Chaudi^re     Falls. 

Ont 

Cherry  Valley,  N.Y 
Chicago,  III. 
Clayton,  N.Y  . 

Chin,  The,  Vt 

Chryslers      Farm, 

Ont 

Clove,  The,  N.Y.. 
Cobleskill.N.Y.... 

CobourK.  Ont 

Cohnes,  N.Y 

Colliers,  N.Y 

Concord,  NH 

Coney  Island,  N.Y. 
Convent  of  Mount 

St.  Vincent, NY 
Cooperstown,  N.Y. 

Cornwall,  NY 

Cornwall,  Ont 

Cotoau     du     Lac, 

Que 


18 

288 

235 

17 
191 
292 
393 
292 

50 

2:^ 

29-30 

28 
231 

228 

6;{ 

238^ 

61 1 

H)5-188| 

217  i 

2231 
281 

571 
2101 

64! 

52 1 
3;i2 
389 


52-56 

22 

227 

227 


PAOI 

Coxsackie,  N.Y...  40 
Orawtbrd     Notoh, 

N.H 325 

Croton  Lake,  N.Y.  17 

Crownest.  N.Y  ...  21 

Crugor's  Island. . . .  27 

Orum  Elbow,  N.Y.  26 

Crystal  Lake,  N.Y.  50 
Cushing's     Island, 

Me im 

Delles,  Wis 191 

Day  line  of  Steam- 
ers.    5 

Dearborn,  Mich . . .  161 
Detroit,  Mich.  ..16M61 
Devil's   Danskam- 

mer.N.Y 24 

Devil's  Hole,  Nia- 

fiara  Falls 142 

Dickinson's  Land- 
ing, Ont 227 

Dobb  g  Perry,  N.Y.  13 

Dundas,  Ont 167 

Dunderberg,    Mt., 

N.Y 17 

Echo  Lake,  N.H. .  312 

Elmira,  N.Y  ...  118 

Emerald  Pool, N.H.  3Ul 

Fabyans,  N.H.  •  .S18 
Fish  kill    Landing, 

N.Y 24 

Flume,  The  N.H. .  316 
Fort  Ashley,  Mass.  39 
Fort  Clinton,  N.Y.  18 
Fort  Edward  Sta- 
tion. NY 103 

Fort  George,  Lake 

George 110 

Fort  Lee,  NY 12 

Fort  Montgomery, 

N.Y. 18 

Fort  Niagara,  N.Y  '202 

FortSnelling,Min.  193 
Fort    Washington, 

N.Y 11 

Fort  William  Henry 

N.Y 110 


'.■ . .'.  I 


XIV 


INDEX. 


If   ■' 


i. 


In  ■ 


•"J 


PAOB 

Pranconia   Notch, 

N.H 312 

Qansvoort.N.Y...  105 
Genesee     B  i  t  er , 

Falls,  N.Y 117 

Glens  Falls,  N.Y..  106 
Glen    Ellis    Falls. 

N.B....      301 

Greenport,  L.I....  392 

GroBse  Isle,  Que  ..  286 

Gorham,  N.H 296 

Grimsby,  Ont 156 

Fa !  Ha  I  Bay,  Que  290 

Haverstraw.  N.Y..  17 

Hamilton,  Ont 156-157 

Hampton     Beach, 

Conn 335 

Havana  Glen,  N.Y.121-123 

Howe's  Cave,  N.Y.  61-62 

Hudson,  NY...  31 
Island  of  Orleans, 

Que 285 

Isle  of  Shoals,  N.H  334 

•lackson,  Mich...  162 

Jay  Peak 371 

Kalamazoo,  Mich.  163 

Kennebunk,  Me.. .  333 

Kensington,  III.. . .  164 

Kingston,  Ont.  211 

Kilbourn  City,  Wis  190 

La  Crescent, Minn.  191 

La  Crosse,  Wis  191 

Lachine  Rapids,  Q.  231 

Lake  Champlain.  351 
Lake    George, 

N.Y 104,108-110 

Lake  Minnetonka, 

Minn 195 

Lake  Memphrema- 

t?og,  Que .'^70-374 

L;ika  Oconomowoc  190 

Lake  Onota,  Mass.  39 

Liike  Pepin.  Wis..  192 

Liike  Pewaukee, . .  190 

Lake  St.  Charles, Q  282 

Lake  St.  Francis.Q  227 

Lake  Kt.  Peter,  Que  265 
Lake  Wiunepesau- 

kee.  Me ;..  369 

Lanesboro's     Hill, 

Mass .39 

Lebanon ,  MasH  —  39 

Lewiston,  N.Y —  197 

Lynn,  Mass..  .3.% 
Longbranch,  N.J.  .:«4-38r) 
London,  Ont.  158-159 
Long  Eault  Rapids, 

Ont 223-225 

Luna  Island,  Ont. .  151 
Littleton,  N.H     .. 

Long  Jkiich.  L.I. .  396 

L'Orifriniil,  Que...  235 

Lula  Cascade,  Mass  39 
Mount       Willard, 

N.H 305 

Mount      Webster, 

N.U 305 


PAOB 

Mount     Franklin, 

N.H 806 

Mount    Kearsage, 

N.H.,.. 804 

Mount       Clinton, 

N.H 306 

Marshall,  Mich....  163 
Maplewood  Insti- 
tute, Mass.  .  34-38 
Masseoa    Springs, 

NY 223 

Michigan        City, 

Mich 164 

Milwaukee,  Wis..  189 
Minneapolis,  Minnl94-195 
Minnehaha   Falls, 

Minn 193 

Missisquoi     Park. 

Vt 352-355 

Montreal,  Que...  239-261 
363 


282 

372 
372 

364 

298 

316 

330 

28 

13 

286; 

23' 

.3.S5i 


Montpelier,  Vt 
Montmorency  Falls, 

Que.  . 
Mount  Elephantis, 

VcUO*  ••••    #■••••• 

Mount  Orford,  Q. . 
Mount    Mansfield, 

Vt 

Mount     Washing- 
ton, N.H 

Mount    Lafayette, 

N.H 

Mount     Pleasant, 

Me 

Mountain    House, 

N.Y 

Mount  St.  Vincent, 

N.Y 

Murray  Bay,  Que. 
Newburgh,  NY.. . 
Newburyport.Mass 

Newport,  Vt 370-371 

New  York 398, 

Niagara.  Ont 200-203 1 

Niagara  Falls, Ont.l25*155i 

Niles,  Mich 163; 

Nineveh,  N.Y 48 

North    Conway, 

N.H ,328' 

Ocean  Beach,  N..T.  .3!»7  , 
Oceii  n  fl  rove ,  N .  J.  .397  | 
Ogdcnsburgh.N.Y.       221' 

Oka,  Que.. 234; 

Old  Orchard  Beach,  | 

Me .333 1 

OneoTita,  N.Y .51 

Ottawa,  Ont 235-2.30 

Otego,  N.Y 51 

Otsego  Lake,  N.Y.  53 
Owl's  Head,  Que..  372 
Palisades,  N.Y... .  12 
Portage  City,  Wis.        190 

PortHgo.N.Y 117 

Peekskill,  N.Y....  17 
Perry's  Peak,  Mass  39 
Piiikham      Notch, 

N.H 304 


PAOK 

Plattsburgh,  Vt. . .       376 
Port  Hope,  Ont,...       210 

Portland,  Me 319-523 

Portsmouth,  Me..       331 
Poughkeepsie,N.Y.       26 

Prescott,  Ont 222-223 

Preston,  Minn..  191 

Profile  Rock,  N.H.  314 
Prospect        Park, 

Niagara  Falls ..  128-r  0 
Pittsfield,  Mass...  32-34 
Pontoosuo     Lake, 

Mass 39 

Queen  City  Park, 

Vt 360-363 

Quebec 269-281 

Queenston.  Ont. . .       198 
Redwood,  N.Y... .       220 
Rhinebflck    Land- 
ing, N.Y 27 

River  Marguerite.  294 
Riviere  du   Loup, 

Que 286 

Richmond,  Que...  295 
Rookaway,  N.J.  ..i90-m 

Rutland,  Vt 368 

Richfield   Springs, 

N.Y 53 

Rockland      Lake, 

N.Y 16 

Round  Lake,  N,!'.  45 
Rye  Beach,  NH..       335 

Saco,  Me 333 

Sandy  Hill,  N.Y. .  105 
St.  Anne,  Que  . .  233 
St.   Anne's    Falls, 

Que 285 

Saguenay     River, 

Quo 289-294 

Salem.  Mass 336 

Salisbury,  Mass. . .  335 
Sandy  Hook,  N.J .  384 
Seabrook,  N.H....  :i35 
Sebago  Lake,  Me.. 326-329 
Seneca  Lake,  N  Y  124-125 
Sherbrooke.  Que. .  295 
Silver       Cascade, 

N.H 318 

Songo  River,  Me. .       ^M) 

Sorel.Que 265 

Springfield,  Mass..       3«9 

Stowe,  Vt 364-367 

St.  Albans,  Vt. . .  355-366 
St.  Paul.  Minn...  193-194 
St.  Regis,  Que  ....       227 

Saratoga,  jN.Y 65-102 

Saratoga        Lake, 

N.Y 103 

Saw-mill       River, 

N.Y 13 

Scranton,  N.Y....  49 
Schenectady,  N.Y.  64 
Shaker  Village,. . .  39-40 
Sharon      Springs, 

N.Y. 57-W 

Shawangunk  lliils, 

N.Y 24 


,'«W^-. 


INDEX. 


XV 


PAGB 

Sidney,  N.y 51 

Sing-Sing,  N.Y...  16 
Sleepy   Hollow, 

N.Y 16 

South  Beaoon  Hill, 

N.Y 24 

Split  Rook,  Lake 

Champlain  381 

Spuyten     Duyvil, 

N.Y.   11 

Stony  Point,  N.Y.  17 

St.  Catharinea,  Ont  155 

St.  Hilaire.Que...  262 

Swampsoott.MasB.  336 

Tarry  town.  N.Y..  13-14 
Thompson's  Falls, 

N.H. 300 

Thorold.Ont 155 

Three  Sisters,  Nia- 
gara Falls 144 

Three  Rivers,  Que.  267 


PAOK 

Tadousao,  Que ....       288 
Thousand  Islands. 213-220 

Ticonderoga. 104 

Toronto,  Ont  ....  203-208 
Trenton  Falls,  N.Y114-115 
Tuckerman's    Ra- 
vine, N.H 302 

Troy,  NY 42-43 

Tivoli.N.Y  27 

Tunnel      Station, 

N.Y 

Two      Mountains, 

Que 234 

Unadilla.N.Y 51 

Victoria     Bridge, 

Que 258-260 

Vassar       College, 

N.Y 26 

Verplank's  Point..         17 
Wanconah     Fails, 
Mass 39 


PAOI 

Waterbury,  Vt....  363 
Watkin's     Glen, 

N.Y 118-121 

WestPoint 20 

Whirlpool  Rapids. 

Niagara  Falls. .  .139-144 
White  River  Junc- 
tion, Vt 367 

Windmill     Point, 

Ont 222 

Waddington,N.Y.  223 

Way zata,  Minn...  195 

Weehawken.N.Y.  10 

Wells,  Mass 333 

West  Point,  N.Y. .  19-20 
White  Mountains, 

N.H 297-319 

Worcester,  N.Y..  57 

York  Beach,  Me..  334 

Ypsilante,  Mich ...  161 


INDEX   TO  MAPS. 

PaBoramaof  St.  Liawrence  River Facing 

Saratoga ** 

Niagara  FallB " 

Lower  St.  Lawrence  and  Saguenay  River *' 

White  Mountains *' 

City  of  Boston ** 

JCzcorsion  Routes. ** 


I 
«S 
126 
20S 
372 
SS7 
S2« 


XVI 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


l■.'^ 


P  ■■•■'■' " 
r  V'  ■'■•>.  ■' 


"  i 


i»  •  ' 


|or  f  oroMo  ani  |l?er  |i  |awrenee. 

V 

The  Palace  Steamer 


RUNNING   BETWEEN 

Lewiston,  Niagara  and  Toronto, 

In  direct  connection  with  Trains  on  the 

New  Tori  Central  &  HndiiOD  Biver  i  B., 

And  Canada  Southern  Railway, 

Giving  both  the  Tourist  and  Business  Traveller  a  delightful 

sail  of  Forty  Miles 


Connecting  at  Toronto  with   ROYAL  MAIL  LINE  for 

Thousand  Islands,  Rapids  of  St.  Lawrence,  &c. 

Tickets   on   sale  at  all  Ticket  Offices  of  the  N.  Y.  C  & 
H.  R.  R.  R.,  and  Royal  Mail  Line,  and  by 

BAELO'W  OVMSEBLANS, 
35  Yonge  St.,  and  24  York  St.,  Toronto. 

J0S2T  70T,  SCaaaffor. 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


XVII 


Ricliiiliiiii  &  Ontario  NaTigation  Co. 


The  iSteamers  of  this  Company  between 

MONTRBAIj   and    QUBBEG 

ran  regularly  as  under  : — 

The  « Quebec,"  Capt.  R.  Nelson,  on  Mondays,  Wednesdays,  and 

Fridays,  and 
T'hr  "MONTREAL,"  Capt.  L.  H.  Roy,  on  Tuesdays,  Thursdays,  and 

Saturdays,  at  SEVEN  o'clock  p.m.,  from  Montreal. 

•:jceamers  from  >| 

MOIVTRBAI.  to  HA]!IIII.TO]!ir 

connecting  at  Twonto  with  the  Steamers  for  Niagara  Falls  and  Buffalo, 
and  with  railways  for  all  points  West,  will  leave  daily  (Sundays  ex- 
cepted), from  the  Canal  Basin,  at  NINE  o'clock  a.m.,  and  Lachine 
on  the  arrival  of  the  Train  leaving  the  Bonaventure  Station  at  NOON, 
and  Coteau  Landing  on  arrival  of  Train  leaving  Montreal  at  FIVE 
o'clock  p.m. 

Steamer  **  BOHEMIAN,"  Capt.  J.  Rankin,  for  Cornwall  and  intermediate 
ports,  every  Tuesday  and  Friday,  at  12  noon,  from  Canal  Basin. 

Steamer  **  TROIS  RIVIERES,"  Capt.  J.  Duval,  leaves  for  Three  Rivers 
every  Tuesday  and  Friday  at  2  p.m.,  connecting  at  Sorel  with  steamer 
•«  SOREL  "  f6r  St.  Francois  and  Yamaska. 

Steamer  "CHAMBLY,"  Cipt.  Frs.  Lamoureux,  leaves  for  Chambly  every 
Tuesday  and  Friday,  at  1  p.m. 

Steamer  "TERREBONNE,"  Captain  Laforce,  leaves  daily  (Suudays  ex- 
cepted), for  Boucherville,  Varennes,  and  Bout  de  I'lsle  at  3  p.m. 

COMPANY'S  TICKET  OFFICE,  where  staterooms  can  be  secured  from 
R.  A.  DicksoQ,  133  St.  James  Street,  and  at  the  Ticket  Office, 
Richelieu  Pier,  foot  of  Jacques  Cartier  Square,  and  from  Robert 
McEwen,  at  the  Freight  Office,  Canal  Baain. 

aENEAAL  OFFICES,  228  ST.  PAUL  STREET. 

J.  B.  LAMERE,  ALEX.  MILLOY, 

General  Manager,  Traffic  Manager. 


XVIII 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


,(1  ■'■ 


■/  1.  ,. 


h«>' 


I'* '  ' 


MAIL  LINE  DAY  STEAMERS 


BETWEEN 


Paasengera  for  Ottawa  and  all  intermediate  ports  take  7  a.m.  train  for 
Lachine,  daily,  to  connect  with  steamer. 

First-class  Fare  to  Ottawa |2  50 

Return  do  4  00 

Second-class        do  1   50 

Charming  Scenery  and  Comfortable  Meals. 

DAILY  EXCURSIONsTtaWngTalmTtiiinforU^  ALL  DAY 

TRIP  TO  CARILLON  AND  BACK,  passing  through  beautiful  scenery. 
Steamer  remains  at  Carillon  one  hour  and  a-half,  returning  HOME  BY 
THE  RAPIDS.     Fare  for  the  round  trip,  $1.25;  on  Saturdays,  $1 .  00. 

Tickets  for  the  CALEDONIAN  SPRINGS  (the  Saratoga  of  Canada)  at 
Reduced  Rates.    This  is  the  most  direct  of  any  route  to  the  Springs. 


r-«-*J/»^' 


J[EXCURSIONS  UP  BY  RAIL  AND] 
DOWN  BY  BOAT. 


1^ 


vm^*"*-* 


DOWN  THE  RAPIDS  in  the  afternoon,  take  the  5  p.m.  train  for 
Laohine  Daily.    Fare  for  round  Trip;  50c. 

ST.  ANNE'S,  daily,  by  12.30  p.m.  train,  and  on  Saturdays  by  2  p.m. 
train,  returning  by  boat  at  4  p.m.  via  Rapids.    Fare  for  round  trip,  80c. 

ROUND  TRIP  tickets  issued  to  Ottawa,  up  by  rail  and  down  by  boat. 
Fare,  $6.00. 

Tickets,  Tourists'  Cards,  and  all  information  at  principal  hotels.  Grand 
Grand  Trunk  Office,  143  St.  James  Street  and  Depot,  and  the  Company's 
Ticket  Office,  comer  St.  James  and  McGill  Streets. 

Freight  Office,  87  Common  Street,  Canal  Basin. 

R.  W.  SHEPHERD,  President. 
R.  W.  SHEPHERD,  Jr.,  Manager, 

89  Common  St.,  Montreal.  < 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


XIX 


n.  train  for 


IMS  CHAHFLilN  AND  KEORKE. 


Steamers  "Vermont"  and  "Horicon,"  form  a 
day  line  in  either  direction  through  both  Lakes. 
Going  south,  leave  Plattsburg  every  morning 
(Sundays  excepted),  via  Port  Kent  (Ausable 
Chasm),  Burlington  and  way  landings,  reach  Fort 
Ticonderoga  at  noon,  (dinner  after  arrival). 

0lSlBT4f  IHM  €k'&» 

around  Mount  Defiance  to  Baldwin  ;  Lake  George 
steamer  to  Caldwell,  connections  thenc^  through 
to  Saratoga,  Troy  and  Albany  same  afternoon. 

Passengers  to  go  through  both  Lakes,  leave 
Montreal  by  afternoon  train  and  lodge  at  Platts- 
burgh,  then  leaving  by  morning  train  do  not  pass 
through  Lake  Champlain,  but  reach  Saratoga  via 
Lake  Georqre  the  same  afternoon  in  time  for  tea. 

P.  W.  BARNEY, 

Super.  Burlington^  Vt. 

C.  C.  McFALL, 

Ticket  Agent, 

143  8t.  James  Street,  Montreal. 

{See page  ^,^6). 


i 

if 


XX 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


I.    ) 


I 


I     "! 


OIF  STE.A.:M:Eie.s 

TO    THE 

Tadousac, 

Cacouna, 

Riviere  du  Ijoup 

and  Murray  Bay. 

« ♦ » 

Commencing  on  the  27th  Jane,  the  well-known  first-slass  Steamers, 

"SAGUENAY,"        -  .  -        Caft.  M.  Lbcours. 

"  UNION,"  or  "  ST.  LAWRENCE," 

Will  leave  St.  Andrew's  Wharf  as  follows  : 

Tuesdays  and  Fridays,  at  7.30  A.M.,  the  "SAGUENAY,"  for 
Chicoutimi  and  Ha  !  Ha  !  Bay,  calling  at  Baie  St.  Paul,  Les  Ebonle- 
ments,  Murray  Bay,  Riviere  du  Loup,  Tadousac  and  L'Anse  St.  Jean. 

Wednesdays  and  Saturdays,  at  7.30  A.M.,  the  "Union,"  for  Ha! 
Ha!  Bay,  calling  at  Baie  St.  Paul,  Les  Eboulements,  Murray  Bay, 
Riviere  du  Loup  and  Tadoasac. 

Connecting  at  Quebec  with  the  Richelieu  k  Ontario  Navigation  Company's 
Boats,  North  Shore  Railway,  and  Grand  Trunk  Railway ;  and  at 
Riviere  du  Loup  with  the  Intercolonial  Railway  for  and  from  the 
Maritime  Provinces  and  Atlantic  States. 

Leaving  Riviere  du  Loup  : — For  the  Saguenay,  at  5.00  P.M.,  same  day  ; 
and  for  Quebec,  Wedr  esdays,  Thursdays  and  Saturdays,  at 
5.00  P.M.,  and  on  Sundays  at  7.00  P.M. 

TICKETS  for  sale,  and  State-Rooms  secured  at  the  General  Ticket  Office, 
opposite  the  St.  Louis  Hotel,  and  at  the  Company's  Office. 

For  farther  information  enquire  at  the  St.  Lawrence  Steam  Naviga- 
tion Co.,  St.  Andrew's  Wharf. 

A.  GABOUKY. 

Set-retary. 


fe?.*«wwH.^'      ({• 


■(■•■,  • 


XX 


ADVERTISEMKNTS. 


:f  •■■    ■■ 


I       : 


OIF    STE^nS^CEK/S 

TO    THE 

Tadousac, 

Cacouna, 

Riviere  du  Ijoup 

and  Murray  Bay. 

Commencing  on  the  27th  Jane,  the  well-known  firat-elass  Steamers, 

"SAGUENAY,"        -  -        Capt.  M.  Lbcours. 

"  UNION,"  or  *'  ST.  LAWRENCE," 

Will  leave  St.  Andrew's  Wharf  as  follows  : 

Tuesdays  and  Fridays,  at  7.30  A.M.,  the  "SAGUENAY,"  for 
Chicoutimi  and  Ha  !  Ha  !  Bay,  calling  at  Bale  St.  Paul,  Les  Ebonle* 
ments,  Murray  Bay,  Riviere  du  Loup,  Tadoiisac  and  L'Anse  St.  Jean. 

Wednesdays  and  Saturdays,  at  7.30  A.M.,  the  "Union,"  for  Ha! 
Ha!  Bay,  calling  at  Bale  St.  Paul,  Les  Eboolements,  Murray  Bay, 
Riviere  du  Loup  and  Tadoasac. 

Connecting  at  Quebec  with  the  Richelieu  &  Ontario  Navigation  Company's 
Boats,  North  Shore  Railway,  and  Grand  Trunk  Railway ;  and  at 
Riviere  du  Loup  with  the  Intercolonial  Railway  for  and  from  the 
Maritime  Provinces  and  Atlantic  States. 

Leaving  Riviere  du  Loup  : — For  the  Saguenay,  at  5.00  P.M.,  same  day  ; 
and  for  Quebec,  Wedr  esdays,  Thursdays  and  Saturdays,  at 
5.00  P.M.,  and  on  Sundays  at  7.00  P.M. 

TICKETS  for  sale,  and  State-Rooms  secured  at  the  General  Ticket  Office, 
opposite  the  St.  Louis  Hotel,  and  at  the  Company's  Office. 

For  farther  information  enquire  at  the  St.  Lawrence  Stbam  Naviga- 
tion Co.,  St.  Andrew's  Wharf, 

A.  GABOUEY. 

'  •  Sfi-retary. 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


XXI 


3  Express  Trains  Daily,  3 

(SUNDAYS  EXCEPTED)  BE  EN 


-WITH- 


PJLLMA.N  DAY  AND  SLEEPING  CARS 

Leave  MONTREAL  7.16  a.m.,  9.00  a..m.,  &  6.30  p.m 

ARRIVING  IN 

BOSTON  at  7.80  p.m,  7.00  p.m.,  and  8.30  a.m. 

3  Express  Trains  Daily,  3 

(SUNDAYS  EXCEPTED)  BETWEEN 

Montreal  and  Ne^v  York, 

Leave  Montxeal  at  7.15  am.  3.20  p.m.  and  6.30  p.m.,  and 

arrive  in  NEW  YORK  9.00  p.m-  and  6.45  a.m.  via  Troy, 

and  12  Noon,  via  Springfield. 

WagnerSleeping  &  Drawing  Room  Gars  through  without  change 

Passenger  and  Baggage  Cars^  Montreal  to  Albany,  without  change. 


19*  He^  that  jroar  TICKETS  read  via 

CENTRAL YSRMOHT  RR.  &  ST.  ALBANS 

Tourists'  and  Excnrsion  Tickets  for  sale  in  all  the  principal  cities  of 
New  England  and  New  York.     Also  at 

186  St.  James  St.,  Montreal,  A.  C.  Stonboravk,  Can.  Pass.  Ag't. 
260  Washington  Street,  Boston,  T.  E.  Bond,  Ticket  Agent. 
271  Broadway,  New  York,  E.  R.  Coppins,  "        ** 

J  W.HOBART,        WM.  F.SMITH.        D.MoKENZIE, 

Oen'l  S«p€ritUendent,  Oen'l  Pa»«'r  Ajeftt,         Au*t  Oen'l  Pa$9*r  Agent, 

St.  Albano.  Vt.  St.  Albans,  Vt.  St.  Aibana,  Vt. 


■  v 


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■■•  'i'-jlijii'.;;;,'  ■;,.;r,,.A;;„;.,,.-^ ••■•. *<»«apMK- 

A  SECTION  CORNER  MOUND. 

The  Land  Prospector's  Manual  and  Field-Book 

(illustr  ted),  by  Capt.  C.  W.  Allen,  of  Winnipeg,  being  the  only 
publication  which  explains — with  the  aid  of  nnmeroua  original  dia- 
grams — how  to  locate  any  particular  section  ot  land  in  the  Canadian 
North-West,  will  be  found  indispensable  by  every  one  makiog  an  expe- 
dition in  the  Prairie  region  with  the  purpose  of  settling  or  inresting. 

Two  useful  Maps  are  included  in  the  Second  Edition,  just  published,  and 
the  Appendix  contains  four  dozen  lithographed  skeleton  diagrams 
of  townships  and  sections  for  a  Prospector's  peisonal  memoranda, 
while  in  tte  field,  for  after  use  by  himself  and  friends. 

Mr.  Lindsay  Russell,  Surveyor  General  of  Canada,  expresses  the  follow- 
ing opinion  of  the  work  : — **  A  very  clear  exposition  of  our  system  of 
survey,  and  of  the  Dominion  Lauds  Law  and  regulations." 

The  price  of  The  Land  Prospector's  Manual  and  Field  Book,  which 
will  be  found  replete  with  such  practical  information  as  is  required 
by  every  land  hunter,  is  no  more  tlian  an  ordinary  note  book. 

ONLY    25    CENTS, 

of  all  Booksellers  and  Newsdealers,  or  on  the  Cars  and  Steamboats. 

FUBLISUERS: 

Toronto  and  Niagara  Falls,  Out Toronto  News  Company. 

Montreal The  Montreal  News  Company. 

London,  Eug The  Inteniational  News  Company,  11 

Bouverie  St.,  (Fleet  Street). 

N.  B.— COPYRIGHT. 


XXIV 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


Establlfihed  18S4. 


:o:- 


LOVBON  AND  PABIS, 


ALHO 


Gold  Medal  awarded  at  Dominion  Exhibition,  Ottawa,  1879, 
for  Best  Collection  •f  Furs. 


■4,i'—>^ 


^^w^vv^rT-- 


JOHN  HENDERSON  &  GO. 

HATTERS  &  FURRIERS 

e — MOIVTR  K  Ali — a 

Tourists  are  invited  to  call  and  examine  our  Stock,  on  view  during  the 
Summer,  embracing  all  the  finest  classes  of 

RUSSIA,  HUDSON'S  BAT  and  CANADIAN  FURS, 

All  manufactured  on  the  premises  in  the  best  manner  and  latest  styles. 

English,  French  and  Anfierican  Hats  of  all  kinds 

Eeceived  from  the  Best  Makers  Weeklv. 


rw'*-4---  '     >-s; 


VANITY  FAIR  (i^lake  cut.) 
FRAGRANT  VANITY  FAIR 

LONG  (MTT. 

Old    (3r  O  ll.  D  »  (fi-  ^ke  cut.) 

SMOKING  TOBACCOS. 

That  stand  unrivalled  for  l»lIItITY.      Warranted   Free   flrom 

natiii^N  or  ]lle«licati<ftii. 

FRAGRAMT 


VAXITV 
FAIK I 


TIIKFK 


JTEW 

VANITY 

FAIR! 


Facli  liaviiiK  <liNliiiK:nls1iliiK  Merits. 

HARMLESS,   REFRESHING,    AND  CAPTIVATING. 

8  First  Prixe  Medals. 

WM.  S.  KIMBALL  &  CO., 

Peerlkss  ToiiAcco  WoKKs,  ROCHESTER,  N.  Y 


(LIMITED) 


Q) 


MANl'I'ACTCKHRS   Oh 


News,  Book  and  Coloured  Printing  Papers. 

ENVELOPE  PAPERS  and  ENVELOPES, 

Manilla*  Brown,  Groy  and  Stra^tr  'TTrappin?  Papers,  Roofln^ 

Felt  and  Sdatch  Paper  Stra'vtr'board  and  Paper  Bagrs, 

Cards  and  Cardlsoard  Blanls  Boolss- 


l.Ml  DKThU?.   Ill     h\>.K'i     I  .I'.sCk  1 1'TlnN    nl' 


Writing  and  Jobbing  Papers,  Enanielled  Papers,  Envelopes, 

MILLS  AT  WINDSOR,  SHERBROOKE  AND  PORTNEUF. 

374,  376,  378  St.  Paul  Street,  Montreal. 

Branch"  House,  11  Front  SiRKirr,  Toronto. 


*Li  1 

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IF'    ' 

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AU-Round  Routa  and  Paiionunlo  Oiiid« 


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HTNif^  IS  ulNiivj^ni  roil  tizi. 

JStT^le  and  ioeskity  in  Quebec, 

IX  it  elhribfy  atuated,  b|v^  tqy  md  sarfDiUMSed  by,  tlie 
mott  diwghtfnl  and  lashioiiable  jjiipniimlM,  the  Govcr- 
nor't  Garden,  the  Citadel^  ^  Esplanade,  the  Place 
d'Annes,  aad  Durham  Terrace,  whkn  fiurniah  the  iplen- 
did  view*  and  magnificent  scenery  for  whidi  Quebec  is  so 
justly  celebnted,  and  which  b  unsurpassed  in  any  part  of 
the  world. 

The  Proprietors,  in  returning  thanks  far  the  very  lib- 
eral patroiKMe  they  have  hitherto  tt^jdved*  inform  the 
public  that  this  Hotel  has  been  thdit>u|^  renovated  and 
embdlished,  and  can  now  aoconmiodate  about  joo  visi- 
ton ;  and  assure  them  that  nothing  will  be  wanting  on 
theirpart  that  williDliiiduce  tethe  c/omfort  and  enjoyment 
of  their  guests. 

in  lisiia  wmit  oimf iit»  Prvrut^ 

WILLIS  Bt7SSILlH  Fiealdent.   ^ 


m  nil  ir  a  BHMn^  III  im  i«Bti#iiiffir  fntn  u^ 


